Impressions
Speaking of Qianxinan, what is your first impression?
Strong minority style? Beautiful mountains and rivers, charming scenery? Chow down and move your index finger?
The movie "Days Under the Clouds" starring Zhang Hanyu, Yu Na, Ma Guoxing, Wang Shibin, Xiao Jian, and Wang Qianyuan brought the mountainous areas of southwestern Guizhou into people's vision for the first time. Two children from mountain villages in Guizhou who yearn for a better city life experience a series of witty and meaningful stories on their way to find the city, drawing out the depth and charm of Southwest Guizhou.
Chen Xiaochun and other five fathers brought their cute babies to Xingyi, Guizhou for the filming of "Where Are We Going, Dad". For a while, all kinds of tidbits and short videos maxed out the circle of friends. In Xingyi Wanfenglin, they had a cycling experience and market game interaction, and in Yubulu Village, Qingshuihe Town, they carried out a two-day and one-night rural farm life experience.
In fact, the exploration of Qianxinan has existed since ancient times. In April of 1638 AD (the eleventh year of Ming Chongzhen), an old man with a strong body and a hale and hearty body, after visiting the Huangguoshu Waterfall, carried a bag and leaned on a cane, and walked along the Qiandian Post Road to pass the Guansuo Ridge. . "Xia Ke" is his nickname, from which we can see his hobbies and hobbies, his life is in all directions, and his footprints are all over 21 provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions today.
Xu Xiake climbed a mountain for a while, went down a canyon for a while, crossed a ridge for a while, and crossed a river for a while. The old city in the early stage is still five miles above the Panjiang River, and it is urgent to move forward." Physical strength and patience were exhausted during such a journey.
Frustration once made Xu Xiake stagnate. In Xingyi and Qinglong, he hesitated to regain his courage in the delicious food of Qianxinan and take a rest. The food gave him the strength and confidence to find his way. Shan wrote: "From the northeast to the southwest, it is like climbing the tail of a dragon, and then you can see outside the southeast peak, the sky is clear and the sun is clear, and the mountains in the distance are like indigo. Everything is like chaos..." He walked through Wanfeng Forest and praised, "there are so many mountains in the world, but only here is a forest of peaks", "the peaks standing in a cluster, majestic for thousands of miles, are the best in the southwest".
In such provocations of texts, variety shows, and movies, my curiosity could no longer be suppressed, and I started this journey in the southwest of Guizhou.
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Hey, I'm Liu Jingyu, a returnee from Northern Europe, a second-hand economist in a third-tier city, a writer who strayed into the travel circle, a photographer who signed up for free streaming...all my labels.
Sina Weibo: @刘鲸鱼跑跑跑
Note: It is not easy to make a film, and the code word is even more difficult. It is strictly forbidden to steal texts and pictures in various forms.
Itinerary Overview
Day 1
17:00 Shenyang flies to Guiyang, Guiyang flies to Xingyi, arrives at Xingyi Airport
17:30 Depart for Anlong
18:30 Go to Anlong Internet celebrity snack street to check in and have dinner
Day 2
08:30—11:00 Go to the country’s first national mountain outdoor sports demonstration park to experience rock climbing
11:00 Depart for Zhenfeng
12:30—12:30 Go to Tubu Town and experience Bouyei embroidery
15:30 Head to Twin Breasts
16:30 Go to Sancha River to experience local folk customs
18:30 Check in to the caravan camp
Day 3
08:00 Breakfast at RV camp
08:30 Depart for Qinglong
12:00—12:30 Lunch
12:30 Depart for Pu'an
13:30—17:00 Watch the tea-making process and experience riding on the Chashan bicycle path
19:30 Depart for Xingyi City
Day 4
08:00 Breakfast: Liuji Mutton Noodles
08:30—9:30 Depart for a walk in Shuangsheng Village, enjoy the intangible cultural heritage eight-tone sitting singing
09:30—12:30 Take a tour bus on the sightseeing road to visit Wanfenglin, go to the bicycle station, and ride in Fenglin
12:30—13:00 Lunch: Wanfenglin Huangxiu Egg Fried Rice
13:00—17:30 Go to Wanfeng Lake, experience water entertainment such as motorboats and sailing on the lake, and check in Jilongbao
Day 5
08:30—12:00 Head to the Maling River Canyon for hiking and sightseeing
12:00 Back to the urban area, Xingyi street snacks check in: chicken glutinous rice balls, glutinous rice cakes, chicken cakes, box cakes, etc.
15:00 Return to Guiyang and fly to Shenyang
Music: A little mountain love song, I will sing it to you in Qianxinan
(1) Coordinate Pu'an Tea Garden: A little song and a cup of tea
It was a cup of bright and bright Pu'an black tea, and it was a cheerful and melodious little beat music. I will never forget that afternoon at Pu'an Tea Garden. The girl wrapped in a turban is wearing a costume that has been evolved and passed down for more than 3,000 years, and is condensed with batik, embroidery, cross-stitching, inlays, and tailoring. She offers the most sincere Kung Fu tea with her slender fingers.
The moment the tea reached his lips, the sound of music rang out.
It was a group of warm and friendly Buyi people, playing music and singing with tea.
Local animal and plant materials, such as ox horns, horsetails, animal skins, bamboo and wood, etc., have become ever-changing musical instruments in the hands of old craftsmen under the craftsmanship passed down from generation to generation. The flute tube, huqin, yueqin, porcelain bowl, wood leaves and other musical instruments are mostly used to set the tone, improvised or simplified to create a patchwork of different sounds, resulting in a natural polyphonic effect.
According to legend, Xiaoda music was introduced to Guizhou from the Central Plains during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty when it was transferred from the north to the south. After continuous summary, improvement, and development by the Buyi folk musicians, it was gradually fixed, forming today's festivals, red and white events. The ensemble music played in folklore activities, such as "Xiao Da Xiao Nao", was jokingly called "Xiao Da Xiao Nao" in the past, and later generations called it "Xiao Da Xiao Nao".
In Pu'an, Buyi plays music, which is called "Dou Dan Da Yin" in Buyi language, and translated as "Chui La Tan Da" in Chinese. From the perspective of musical instruments, repertoire, and music characteristics, it has the characteristics of Central Plains silk and bamboo music and Buyi folk music. The characteristics of music, but also the legacy of Southwest classical music. Compared with modern music, this is a very unrefined music. Every channel is crooked and every sound is clumsy and rough, but it is such a combination that directly broadcasts the unmodified breath and heart voice to every sound. Listen to the ears.
The tea in my hand exudes a deep aroma, and the melody of the music stimulates the sense of smell dulled by the rain. Take a sip of tea, the taste is strong and refreshing, awakening the taste buds that are paralyzed by heavy cooking in modern society. Pu'an, which is located in the two major river basins of Nanpanjiang and Beipanjiang, has no severe cold in winter and no severe heat in summer. Low latitude, little sunshine, and high altitude allow the soil rich in organic matter to grow the freshest Pu'an black tea. This is a bright red soup that is exclusive to Pu'an, and it has an indescribably mellow taste.
In the little beat music, I sniffed the bottom of the cup carefully, and then filled the next cup under the girl's gentle eyes.
(2) Nahui Village under the coordinates: Sit and sing with octaves
If the Xiaoda music is the country tune of the Buyi people, then the eight-tone sitting singing is the symphony of the Buyi people. This kind of folk rap art passed down from generation to generation has the grandeur of court music, the solemnity of temple music, and the Bouyei folk music. The softness of music.
Walking in the forest of ten thousand peaks is a kind of ingenuity that best fits the vicissitudes of life and the fireworks in the world.
Chimeric mountains, integrated with green fields, winding rivers, quaint villages, and lush forests, constitute the best ecological environment in nature, forming a rare pastoral scenery of peaks and forests in the world. Every peak is a chess piece arranged by the hand of God on this land. It is not only interesting on its own, but also complements other types of peaks and forests to form a majestic and vast karst landscape.
The Buyi people here are born from the land and water. Following the veins of the Wanfeng Forest, the houses and fields are scattered and row upon row, forming three natural villages named "Nahui". Walking into Xianahui Village, under the old tree of unknown age at the entrance of the village, a grand song sounded. Simple, fluent, beautiful, and melodious, this style was spread in the ethnic minority areas in southeastern Guangxi as early as the Tang and Song Dynasties. It is often used for festive occasions such as Buyi festivals, weddings, birthdays, and house building. Now it has become a welcome tourist. Sincere blessings.
Blowpipe, stringed, plucked plucked, and percussion are played by eight national musical instruments in four categories and accompanied by Buyi men or men and women singing artistic expressions. Bamboo flute), hairpin, thorn drum, Baobao gong, Xiaoma gong and other eight musical instruments, and later added "Leyou", "Suona", "Konoha" and so on. After years of inheritance, it embodies the wisdom crystallization and national feelings of generations of Buyi people, accompanied by moving playing and singing.
The Buyi people put life into songs, and then decorate life with songs. Nothing is not to be sung, nothing is to be sung. They told the ancient national history with their songs, praised the hard work and bravery of the people, exposed the darkness and cruelty of the old society, and looked forward to the happiness and light of the new society. Narrative songs, ancient songs, production and labor songs, custom songs, love songs, bitter songs, crying wedding songs, children's songs, new folk songs, etc., are either sung in Bouyei language or Chinese, with different sentence patterns and structures. On grand occasions, the tone is high, generous, and fascinating; when singing in love, the tone is soft, tactful, and lively.
In the eight-tone sitting and singing, I was intoxicated, went around in the Wanfeng Forest, and stayed in Xia Nahui Village.
Scenery: unique mountains, interesting water
Karst peak forests on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau are generally poorly developed, and peak forest landscapes with ornamental value are even rarer. However, the Nahuiba Peak Forest Basin in Xingyi is magnificent, large-scale, and beautiful. It is second to none in the plateau karst area. The River Canyon Scenic Area is a typical example of the karst scenery on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, a perfect microcosm, including Maling River Canyon, Wanfeng Forest and Wanfeng Lake.
(1) Paradise in the Wonderful Planet——Wanfenglin
Wanfeng Forest is located in the southeast of Xingyi City, Guizhou Province, bordering Guangxi in the south, Sanjiangkou at the junction of Yunnan, Guangxi and Guizhou provinces (regions) in the west, and the main peak of Wumeng Mountain in the north. More than 200 kilometers long and 30-50 kilometers wide, it is one of the three major karst landforms in southwest China.
It is majestic and has a peculiar landscape. It belongs to the karst landform in southwest China. It can be called the China Cone Karst Museum and is known as the "Wonder of the World". Wanfeng Forest includes east and west peak forests with different landscapes. It is the largest and most typical karst peak forest in China.
More than 360 years ago, Xu Xiake, a famous geographer and traveler, came to Wanfeng Forest. He also praised: "there are so many mountains in the world, but only here are the peaks forming a forest." Xu Xiake came to Xingyi again, and wrote in his travel notes: "The peak of Cong Li, majestic for thousands of miles, is a wonderful victory in the southwest."
(2) The deep kiss of nature in southwestern Guizhou——Malinghe Canyon
The Maling River Canyon is a deep fissure in the orogenic movement, which is majestic, strange, dangerous and beautiful. There are many waterfalls in the valley, green bamboos hanging upside down, caves connected, and ancient and famous trees on both sides of the gorge. In the meantime, there are various poses and different expressions. Located at the junction of the three provinces of Yunnan, Guizhou and Guangxi, there are waterfalls in the scenic area. Some of the more than 30 waterfalls in the central scenic area are as strong as a gap in the Milky Way, and some are as weak as fairies; The rainbows under the sun are in harmony with the secluded valley, and it looks like a fairy if you put it in it. Due to the effect of "thousands of springs return to the valley, and the turbidity of the stream dissolves", the formation of carbon and calcium accumulations on the two walls of the valley in Shenzhen Special Zone is in various forms, like birds and animals, and moistened by waterfalls and fog, it is lifelike and ready to emerge.
Many tributaries on both sides of the strait lag behind the mainstream due to the downward cutting speed, forming hundreds of waterfalls with a height of more than 100 meters and falling into the deep valley. The average width and depth of the canyon are between 200-400 meters, the narrowest point is only 50 meters, and the deepest point is 500 meters. It is so narrow and deep that it is rare. The river water in the karst area contains a lot of calcium carbonate, and carbon dioxide is released rapidly during the fall, which attaches the calcium carbonate to the cliff.
With the passage of time, the calcium carbonate material became thicker and thicker, and the area became larger and larger, so a large-scale and majestic calcification waterfall group was bred on the two walls of the canyon. The 300,000-square-kilometer calcified waterfall interweaves with the majestic waterfall and peak forest, forming an extremely rare and rare landscape.
Accommodation: push the window to see the mountain, look down at the water
(1) Remember nostalgia in Shuangsheng Village and blend in the mountains and rivers
Living by the water, men farming and women weaving, traffic on the rice paddies, chickens and dogs hearing about each other... Find a quiet place among the mountains and rivers, such a peaceful paradise is hidden in Shuangsheng Village.
Shuangsheng Village is a village located in the hinterland of Wanfenglin Scenic Area in Xingyi City. There are Han, Buyi, Miao, Yi, Bai and other ethnic groups living in the village, preserving a way of life in harmony with nature.
The "Nostalgia Bazaar" is specially created for tourists looking for and experiencing nostalgia. There are not only special delicacies such as stone-milled soybean milk, braised meat, mutton powder, and brushed head, but also fried rice crackers, rice dumplings, box cakes, etc. Childhood gourmet memories on the tip of the tongue.
Looking for a piece of nostalgia to put the soul at ease, Wanfeng forest under the Shuangsheng Village, slow down the hurried pace, in the depths of time, only smell the fragrance of flowers, regardless of the day and night.
The sound of Shu Yang's guqin came from the courtyard named "Benxintang". Following the sound of the piano and walking into the stone courtyard, he suddenly felt that he had entered another world, and his physical and mental fatigue was relieved.
Strolling through the verandas, you can see that there are people in each room drinking tea and chatting, pulse-seeking, acupuncture and massage... All kinds of famous doctors and celebrities gather in the Benxintang to spread the virtues of China and promote the way of Chinese medicine.
With "Benxin Hall" as the center, Junqun Culture gathers "Yangxinshanfang", "Food and Dining Room" and other places to create a cultural creation integrating "food, lodging, nourishment, and repair" in the nostalgia market. + Health care base, on the way to find nostalgia, provide everyone with a station to cultivate their body and mind.
Nostalgia is far away, and the soul needs to take a nap on the way to explore the mystery. Unpack your bags, walk on the small road of "Yashe", and you will arrive at the B&B after a turn.
Food: the most difficult mountain road leads to the deepest stomach
(1) Eating spicy food - the earliest spicy culture in China, hot in the homes of ordinary people
For a long time after it entered China, chili was not regarded as a kind of food by the Chinese people at that time. From the existing historical materials, we can find some clues about the entry of chili into Chinese food history. The "Sizhou Fuzhi" compiled in the 60th year of Kangxi contains "Sea pepper, commonly known as spicy fire, and soil seedlings are used to replace salt." This is the earliest record of pepper being used for food. This record also mentions two very important pieces of information. One is that the consumption of chili is a helpless act of "replacing salt"; the other is that eating chili was first popular among the native and Miao people.
The academic circles believe that the widespread introduction of chili peppers into the Chinese diet began in Guizhou Province. In Guizhou, chili has completed the process from an exotic new species to a seasoning non-staple food integrated into the Chinese diet. It is very likely that peppers were imported from Zhejiang to Hunan via the Yangtze River trade channel, but the northeast part of Hunan adjacent to the Yangtze River channel was not widely eaten at first.
Almost all the home-cooked dishes in Qianxinan use spicy as the condiment, such as bad chili, dried chili, oily chili, pickled pepper, sharp pepper... Dozens of different flavors and forms of spicy can cook a table full of dishes, and chili leaps to the top It is the master of all flavors of Guizhou cuisine. All ethnic groups have created a variety of chili products and a series of chili dishes in the long-term practice of spicy food.
In addition to being generally used as a condiment, chili is accompanied by meat, vegetables, fried, fried, stewed, fried, or boiled with dry powder to make red oil, which is used to season powder and noodles, or with dry powder to mix with green onion, soy sauce, Vinegar and sesame oil are made to dip in water. Besides eating vegetables, fresh ones are baked in a wok, and then seasoned with oil, salt, sauce, etc., which are delicious. Every autumn, choose bright red peppers, add ginger and garlic, chop them with a knife, add salt, put them in an altar and seal them to make sour peppers, which are suitable for hot and sour.
When dining in a restaurant in Qianxinan, there must be a few small dishes of spicy peppers mixed with chopped green onions when served with the main course. Before eating, dig a spoonful of soup from the vegetable soup, and then mix each dish with chopsticks in a small dish before serving the meal. Even if you go to eat street food, there will be several large glass jars on the table, which are filled with hot sauce, oily spicy noodles, or spicy noodles, so that guests can choose what they want. However, next time you eat spicy food, please taste it carefully, because this is the earliest spicy culture in China.
(2) Making glutinous rice - the hometown of glutinous food in China, all kinds of glutinous rice can be taken orally
Guizhou people have a long history of eating glutinous rice. As early as the Jiaqing period, it was already a famous snack, and glutinous rice is especially famous in the southwest of Guizhou. According to the records of "Qiannan Zhifang Jilue": "Black seedlings, pounded very white, cooked into circles, and eaten with hands." In the Qing Dynasty, there was also a vivid description of "the rice is fragrant and the pot is full of jade, and the whole family is squatting like apes". .
In Zhenfeng, the hometown of glutinous food in southwestern Guizhou, there are delicious glutinous rice, zongzi, delicious cakes, moon cakes, and uniquely flavored tempeh. The production process is extremely mysterious and difficult to copy. The traditional way, the wisdom of the ancestors, the secrets of the family, the secrets of the master and apprentice, the comprehension of the diners, and every moment of deliciousness, are all created with care and passed down from generation to generation.
Zhenfeng glutinous rice, rice-flavored crispy meat, oily but not greasy, beautiful in color, rich and refreshing, can be called a unique traditional delicacy. The raw materials are high-quality glutinous rice, which is first dusted and cleaned, soaked in cold water for a whole night, and then steamed twice in a pot. Do not sprinkle water during the cooking process, and stir with chopsticks from time to time to ensure that the softness and hardness of each glutinous rice grain are even and moderate. Then pour the oil soup made from chicken bones and pork bones. The meat served with glutinous rice is very carefully prepared, using a variety of ingredients, such as star anise, fennel, pepper, cinnamon, salt, soy sauce, etc., and the pork essence that has been marinated for five days in advance can be served. Next, heat the rapeseed oil and fry it in a pan. When it is half-ripe, drain the oil and slice it, garnished with green vegetables, red and green, rice-flavored meat and crispy.
Generally, when sold in stores in Zhenfeng County, put glutinous rice in an iron pot, heat it with a simmer, and serve it with chicken legs, braised pork, sausages, special pepper noodles, sauerkraut, zheer root, etc., and it can be eaten immediately. It is the kind of taste that is ordinary on the surface but you will be convinced to eat it and remember it for a lifetime.
In the small town of Zhenfeng County, there are 20 or 30 kinds of glutinous food products with unique gray rice dumplings, oily but not greasy glutinous rice, and five-color layered cakes. The business of the time-honored glutinous food processing workshop is booming. For people in Qianxinan, glutinous rice is not only a delicacy on the table, but also carries the heritage of "inheritance and innovation" of regional culture, accompanying and witnessing the beauty and harmony of thousands of families living from generation to generation and flourishing fireworks.
(3) Retro - the delicacy is everywhere, and the ancient method can be passed down through the ages
"Hometown of Chinese Mutton Noodles", "Hometown of Chinese Glutinous Food", "Hometown of Chinese Three-Bowl Noodles"... Qianxinan Prefecture, Wuhua Tianbao. Tea, grassland animal husbandry, vegetables, flue-cured tobacco, sugar cane, job's tears, camellia oleifera, Chinese herbal medicines, dried and fresh fruits, these green ingredients that gather the aura of the mountains have been brewed with the wisdom of the people in Southwest Guizhou, and have become delicious and attractive specialties one after another. , the shop is endless, and it has been continued from generation to generation of master craftsmen.
Chongchong cake originated in Dushan County, Qiannan Buyi and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, with a history of more than 100 years. The production tools are made of palm trees, which are divided into three parts: clapboards, steamers, and wooden sticks. Among them, the partition is slightly smaller than the mouth of the pot, and it is placed on the mouth of the steamer to seal and support. The air holes are drilled on the surface of the board according to the number of small steamers that can accommodate it; the steamer is shaped like a waist drum, generally about ten centimeters high and six in diameter. cm or so. The iron plate with numerous small holes in the middle is used as the bottom of the retort, and it only needs to cover the air holes of the partition when using it. The texture is soft and sweet, the color is light yellow and reddish in color, the local flavor is strong, and the taste is tough.
Anlong cutting powder has a history of thousands of years. The production method only needs to grind the soaked rice into rice milk, and then pour it into the mold little by little and steam it in a pan. This process seems very simple, but it is necessary to grasp that each piece of noodles is evenly thick. The steamed vermicelli should be cooled and coated with a little oil so that the vermicelli will not stick to each other. When eating, cut the noodles into small pieces and put them in a bowl, then add more than a dozen kinds of seasonings such as garlic juice, sesame oil, pickles, peanuts, balsamic vinegar, chili oil, sesame sauce, etc., and finally sprinkle with chopped green onion and coriander and serve. It looks as thin as paper, and it looks very attractive when it is covered with red oil. It is sour and delicious, and it is very enjoyable.
Mutton powder originated in the Qing Dynasty and has a history of more than 300 years. The production process is relatively complicated. It needs to take the best sheep, slaughter, remove the hair, remove the smell, decontaminate, put them in the pot separately, add ginger pieces, cook them on low heat, take them out of the pot and cool them, cut them into thin slices and put them on the noodles. , with diced green onion, coriander, sour radish, chili noodles and other condiments. Special ingredients, pepper and secret sauce will create a long aftertaste of salty, fresh and spicy. The unique technology of secret sauce is very difficult to learn, which makes Xingyi mutton powder the most authentic only in Xingyi. The mutton is well-cooked but not rotten, the rice noodles are snow-white, the soup is fresh and pure, the spicy flavor is strong, and it is oily but not greasy.
Chicken glutinous rice balls were first created in the late Qing Dynasty. They have been passed down through four generations and have a history of more than 100 years. They have become one of the four famous snacks in Xingyi, Guizhou today. Xingyi chicken glutinous rice balls are unique, "Everyone is sweet, but I am salty and fresh". The key difference between Xingyi chicken glutinous rice balls is that it is filled with chicken, filled with chicken soup, and ordered with sesame paste. Aromatic, glutinous glutinous rice, smooth, refreshing, oily but not greasy.
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I still can't accurately describe the feeling of traveling in Qianxinan. The low-latitude and high-altitude mountainous areas in the north-south Panjiang River Basin of the Pearl River system are in the humid subtropical monsoon climate, which is not smooth. The local people said, unfortunately, you missed the clean summer and missed the clear winter. It is a kind of tenderness entwined on the road, from highlands to canyons, from bridges to corridors, from every hill crossed, from every wide and narrow stream. She is not like the startling wind on the big river, but like a gentle touch in a long shot, so gentle.
I can't count the amazing meals in Qianxinan, just as I can't count how many ups and downs there are on the long journey, and how many lakes the boat is full of autumn colors. As soon as you enter Guizhou Southwest, the wine is sweet and the rice is fragrant. Those days when the road was tortuous and the vision was dull were shining because of the dazzling lingering in the mouth, or the decisiveness of different ingredients cracking between the teeth. Some people say that food can resist all the sadness and confusion in the world, and that must be a vocabulary from Qianxinan. Walking those roads, all the way from the most difficult mountain road to the deepest stomach.