---Continued from the previous article


Leaving Mianshan, I drove nearly 90 kilometers to Hongdong, the place where I searched for my roots.


Hongdong County is one of the birthplaces of the ancient civilization of the Chinese nation and is known as the "Hometown of the Chinese". Flood means big water, and hole means torrent, because this place is close to the Fen River, it describes the surging waves. According to "Old Tang Book Geographical Records", take Hongdong Ridge in the north of Yixian County. According to "Shanxi Tongzhi": "There is an ancient Hongya cave five miles north of the county, and the county is named after the cave."


I found a parking place, the terrain was sloping, and when I got out of the car, the door closed. I hurriedly withdrew my hand, but my finger was pinched severely, and it was immediately bruised and painful. As soon as I arrived in Hongdong, I was given a big blow!


Consult the hotel staff and find a local characteristic hotel called "Chongbaxi Hotel". Opposite the hotel, they bring their own "Zhao Zhigang pork head meat". pain.

The first seat in Hongdong—the heavy eight seats, has been passed down for a long time and has become a part of Hongdong culture. It has another name, that is, "Baba Tangshui", which means eight big bowls and eight small bowls. With its unique style of mats, it ranks among the famous delicacies in Shanxi. It is not only popular in the land of Huaixiang with solemn, rich, complete colors, aromas, tastes and dishes, but also famous for its evolution from its essence. foreign land.


D4



Woke up early in the morning, the sky was gloomy, and I walked alone on the streets of Hongdong, visited Confucian Temple Street, Guandi Temple Street, and then went south along Guhuai Road to Susan Cultural Park. The only extant prison in the style of the Ming Dynasty.

The sky began to rain gradually, and I walked northward in the rain and came to the Wanli Archway.

Overlooking Huo Feng's beautiful books in the east

Listening to the Sound of Fenshui in the West

Inscribed "Tai Jing He Shi" in the middle of the back

A Bay of Blue Waves Reflects Splendid Views

Ten Miles of Peaceful Breeze and Mu Xiangguang

The rain gradually stopped, and we walked through the alley to Guandi Temple.

Daodeyide St. Dejin Festival Moxingdou

Chivalrous, honest, heroic, loyal, Bo Yuntian

There are pavilions on both sides of the temple, with Guan Gong Dao on the left and Hou Yin of Hanshou Pavilion on the right.


After the end, take a taxi back to the hotel to meet with everyone. After breakfast, drive to the Hongdong Big Locust Tree Roots and Ancestral Worship Garden.

The entrance is in the shape of a big locust tree.

In the center of the screen wall is a vigorous and dignified "root" character, with "drinking water" and "siyuan" on both sides. There are twelve zodiac signs carved on the top, the eight immortals crossing the sea at the bottom, the dragon and the phoenix at the bottom, the twelve zodiac signs at the top of the two sides, fishing, woodcutters, farming and reading at the bottom, five blessings holding longevity on both sides and below, and the three-crown rooster on the edge. There are three peaches, which respectively mean: Lianzhong Sanguan and Xizhong Sanyuan.

Before the migration, the scene of people's life

There are five rooms, three rooms and one room in the hall. The glazed roof of Menxia is complete with kissing beasts, and two poems written under the eaves in the middle:

The antecedents of life and death are both from Yang Houguo. There is no textual research on the origin of Mo Dao, and private accounts are the most true.

Youyan, Henan and Lu are in harmony with Chu, and the same origin of different schools is not wrong, so the old people pass on anecdotes and ask you how the toe fruit is.

The sides are:

Where is the stork's nest now?

Sitting and recounting the love of the hometown

At the place of the ancient locust tree, the old tree is no longer there. Later generations built a pavilion on the original site to commemorate it. The pavilion is exquisitely carved, simple and solemn.

Open up the frontier and expand the soil, the blue thread will open up the mountains and fields

Tracing the origin of the newspaper, inscribing meritorious deeds and revitalizing China

The ancient big locust tree has a history of more than 1800 years. It was washed away when the Fen River flooded in the eighth year of Shunzhi in Qing Dynasty.

This is the true root of a pagoda tree with a history of more than 1,000 years, with a peculiar shape.

Various offerings and sacrificial utensils in the Worship Museum

Five-color soil, four sea water

Yanghou Ding, Hongdong was called Yang Houguo in the Spring and Autumn Period.

Sacrificial Hall

It's just that now it has become a place for offering incense and charging fees.

There is a dedicated hall


After seeing the Xungen Garden, we left Hongdong and drove all the way to the Yellow River in Hukou.


Hukou Waterfall is the second largest waterfall in China and the largest yellow waterfall in the world. The Yellow River rushes here, with steep stone walls on both sides, and the mouth of the river is as narrow as Hukou, so it is named Hukou Waterfall. The water surface of the Yellow River upstream of the waterfall is 300 meters wide, and within a distance of less than 500 meters, it is compressed to a width of 20-30 meters. The river water of 1000 cubic meters per second pours down from the cliff more than 20 meters high, forming the spirit of "thousands of miles of Yellow River harvested in one pot"

When we got there, we had lunch on the side of the road. Tasted the big carp of the Yellow River, a big fish, half braised in soy sauce and half made into soup, the taste is just like that! In front of the restaurant, witnessing the surging Yellow River flowing all the way, this is the mother river of China!


The two shuttle-shaped boulders in the river are Mengmen Island, which was called "the pedal of the Nine Rivers" in ancient times, and there are temples on the island. According to legend, it turned out to be a mountain, and Dayu split it into two when he was controlling the water, so that the water flowed smoothly. The small island looks like a boat from a distance, and looks like a mountain from a close view.

At the entrance of the Hukou Waterfall Scenic Area, you need to buy a ticket and take the scenic transportation vehicle to arrive at the waterfall.

Shaanxi on the left, Shanxi on the right, two provinces separated by a river. When you go down to the Yellow River, holding the water of the Yellow River in your hands, staring intently, your heart is shaking, the wide water surface is shocking, this is the Yellow River! She came from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, through nine bends and eighteen bends, from green to yellow, and nurtured the Chinese civilization. I have also crossed the Yellow River many times. Neither Lanzhou nor Zhengzhou is as spectacular as I saw this time! I am still very excited!

It was raining continuously in the past few days, and the water flow was large. The scenic spot was closed for a while. We were very lucky to see the Yellow River Waterfall when we needed a large amount of water.

We all put on waterproof shoe covers and walked along the road to the middle of the Yellow River. The water was fierce and rumbling. On the bank of Hukou Town, Shaanxi Province, there are five huge red letters of "Yellow River Cantata".

When the turbid Yellow River water reaches here, the wide river suddenly narrows and falls rapidly, forming a waterfall.

The water of the Yellow River is tumbling with huge waves, rushing down like a broken bamboo, and then enters the Shili Longcao until it reaches the exit of the Longmen.

Standing in the fence, the heart and the waves are rolling together, staring at it for a long time, unwilling to leave!


In the evening, arrive at the Wang Family Courtyard Scenic Area.

Dinner was used in "Yanbei Impression", which has obvious characteristics and rich food and beverages.

At the entrance of the food street, there are three exquisite archways, one is Taipufang, the plaque is "Given the Hereditary Enqiwei" on the plaque, and below it is marked "Jingbiao Encourages Guizhou Guixi Road Jin to Taipusi Qing Wang Ruyu Zhifang", a gift from the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty. There is also a "filial piety and legacy" square, which is dedicated to the wife of Wang Futing, a court official, and another "Pure Filial Piety and Suffering Festival" square, which is dedicated to the second wife of Fengzhi doctor Wang Changzuo. Facing inward is a stage.


While others are resting, I go out and hang out alone.

Rui Xinghou

Chung Ling Yuxiu

This is the lane gate of Yongcui Lane, and there is such a gatehouse at every intersection.

Finally, I turned to a castle and listened to the gatekeeper’s introduction. This is a hotel-type castle recently invested and developed, called Chongningbao Hot Spring Hotel.



D5


The Wang Family Courtyard is located in Jingsheng Town, a famous historical and cultural town in China, 12 kilometers east of Lingshi County, Shanxi Province. It is 35 kilometers away from the ancient city of Pingyao, a world cultural heritage, and 4 kilometers away from Mianshan Mountain in Jiexiu. The Wang Family Courtyard was built by the Jingsheng Wang family over the Ming and Qing dynasties and lasted for more than 300 years. It includes a street with five lanes and six castles, with a total area of ​​250,000 square meters. It is also an architectural art museum with traditional cultural characteristics. . It is a national key cultural relic protection unit and a 4A-level scenic spot.

The Wang Family Courtyard is ten times the size of the Qiao Family Courtyard. Of course, the Qiao Family Courtyard has been there a few years ago.

At the entrance of the Wang Family Courtyard, above the gate is the word "Yin Biao", which means "Bin". Respect for guiding the sunrise.

The gate wall is the Gaojiaya building complex, which was built by the brothers Wang Rucong and Wang Rucheng, the seventeenth grandson of the Jingsheng Wang family, from the first year of Jiaqing (1796) to the sixteenth year of Jiaqing (1811), covering an area of ​​19,572 square meters. There are 35 large and small courtyards and 342 houses in the Gaojiaya complex. There are family schools and courtyards, and there are shared academies, gardens, long-term engineering courtyards, and courtyards. The surrounding fort is tightly surrounded by walls, and four gates are set up in selected places. The large and small courtyards are perfectly matched, and there are as many as 65 doors connecting up and down, left and right, and they are independent.

Leshantang (Dunhou House) is the place where the elder brother Wang Rucong lived, and it was built according to the traditional "Kanzhai Xunmen".
On this towering gatehouse, exquisite wood carvings, layers of metaphors, are all pinned on beauty and hope. I listened to it twice, and when I passed by another tour guide on the return trip, I still couldn't get enough of it.


Screen wall in front of the gate

The wooden carvings under the plaque are called "curtain frames". Cotton curtains are hung in winter and bamboo curtains are hung in summer. The content of the woodcarving is "Baman Jinbao". Baman is the collective name for the Hu people. The figures carved on the curtain frame are all dressed in Hu people's costumes, with high nose bridges, deep eyes and long beards. Each camp offers rare things in the Central Plains such as rhinoceros horns and corals.

Cave-style bedroom, warm in winter and cool in summer.

Jingyetang is where the younger brother Wang Rucheng lives. It is on the west side, and the older brother lives in the east. The gate building is also a little lower than the older brother's.

There are stone carvings embedded on the wall, each of which is an allusion in the Twenty-Four Filial Piety.

The rules are round and square, and the word "moment" in the plaque is written a little more, which is deliberately written by the calligrapher, which means that the more rules, the less trouble.

There are two lions on the stone railing, lively and lovely, with a hydrangea in the middle.

The brick, wood and stone carvings in the courtyard are exquisite, adding infinite artistic charm to the courtyard. The picture shows the ground system.

Guixin College

Die Cui Xuan

There is an emergency escape channel under the Zhanyue Pavilion.


Respectful and loyal

Shishou Poems and Books Huijin

Family Tradition of Diligence and Thrift in the Tang Dynasty


There are two east-west building complexes in the Wang Family Courtyard, namely the "Gaojiaya" on the east side and the "Red Gate Fort" on the west side. There is a bridge connecting the two buildings.
After crossing this bridge, you come to Hengzhen Fort, also known as Red Gate Fort.

He Tianxiu

A tree grows like a pottery willow

Webster's classic

Dexinxuan A pair of stone lions at the entrance are eager to play. The wood carvings on the lintel are carved with auspicious birds and animals.

Misty House is now the Liqun Art Museum.

Read Jun Chen's articles, but filial piety and friends are brothers

Follow Sima's precepts to accumulate Yin virtues for descendants

Qianjiju

Yingxue Nangying reads Ying Xiao's courtesy first and then music

To start a business with the stars and the moon must be realistic

Climb up the city wall for a tour, and the history is even more profound in the rain and mist.

Overlook the streets and alleys in the fort

The turret is also the past lookout pavilion.

These lookout pavilions are arranged at the four corners of the castle.

On the left is the north-south central avenue of Red Gate Fort.

The architectural pattern of the Wang Family Courtyard inherits the courtyard style of the front hall and the back bedroom formed in the Western Zhou Dynasty in China. It not only provides enough space for external exchanges, but also meets the requirements for an internal private atmosphere. The children are orderly, the inside and outside are different for men and women, and the daily functions are all available, which fully reflects the majesty of the official family and the regularity of the patriarchal etiquette system.

Zhengnanmen

There are poems in the Tang Dynasty, songs in the Han Dynasty, policies in the Song Dynasty, classics in the Jin Dynasty, Linlin Bingbing’s family voice

Kindness is the field, morality is the seed, broadness is the sowing, thickness is the protection, the succession, the succession, the rope, the new world

Embroidery Pavilion

A gentleman of kindness never disdains city foxes and rats.

Lishui Xiushan is the most gracious Haiyan River is clear and looks forward to seeing each other often


The Red Gate Fort complex was built in the fourth year of Qianlong (1739) and completed in the fifty-eighth year of Qianlong (1793). It took 54 years. The total area is 25,000 square meters, with 88 large and small courtyards and 776 houses. The whole building is built on the mountain, from low to high, divided into four armors (A: luxury residence), the horizontal passage between A and A and the vertical trunk road in the middle form a very regular "king" character. Each courtyard presents different styles in terms of structure and decoration according to the identity and preferences of the owner. There are plaques on the doors and couplets in the courtyards, reflecting the profound cultural heritage. At present, the Red Gate Fort complex is open in the form of a museum within a museum, including Liqun Art Museum, Niuwen Art Museum, Hu Zheng Literature Memorial Hall and Wang Museum.


On the way back, you pass Jingsheng Confucian Temple, which is a village-level Confucian temple. Although it is small in size, with an area of ​​only 3,500 square meters, there are a series of buildings such as Lingxing Gate, Panchi, Zhuangyuan Bridge, Dacheng Gate, Dacheng Hall, and Zunjing Pavilion. It is equipped with a double-sided hollow stone carving "Carp Leaping over the Dragon Gate" called "the first wall in the world".

Lingxing Gate

The world's first wall - double-sided hollow "carp jumping over the dragon's gate" stone wall. I have also admired several Confucian temples, including those in Beijing, Jinan, Nanjing, Jianshui and other places, and this wall is the only one!

Because the Confucian Temple is still in the process of renovation, I sneaked in alone to take a look.


Leaving the Wang Family Courtyard, drive about 20 kilometers and arrive at Zhangbi Ancient Castle.

I have seen the introduction of Zhangbi Castle on CCTV, and I know that it is a military defense fortress.

Zhangbi Ancient Castle is a relatively complete ancient pocket "castle" in China that integrates military, residence, production, astrology, and religious activities. There are many cultural relics and historic sites, such as theaters in the Yuan Dynasty and folk houses in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, especially the ancient tunnels of the Northern Dynasties, Khan Temple, and glazed steles, which are rare in the country. The entire village was built in accordance with the ancient Chinese astrology and geomancy concepts, and the ground layout corresponds to the twenty-eight stars in the sky. Therefore, Zhangbi Castle is also known as "the first village of Chinese astrology". Zhangbi Ancient Castle has successively been honored as "China's Top Ten Charming Towns", "Chinese Historical and Cultural Villages", "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units", "National Famous Towns and Villages with Special Tourism Landscape", "Traditional Ancient Villages", "Shanxi Six laurel crowns including "Top Ten Cutting-Edge Scenic Spots".

South gate of the castle

Stages The ancient castle known as "Yangko Nest" has three stages.

300 meters to the main road Hongshun Street

Ancient school field Soldiers performing sculptures

Underground Cave Diagram

deep tortuous cave

Different shapes reflect different functions, including ambushes, Tibetan soldiers, food storage, checkpoint positions, command posts, etc.

courtyard

city ​​walls.

福 This word 福 is very particular, and the tour guide introduced it.

There were originally six ancient locust trees, corresponding to the six stars of the South Dipper, and the other five were destroyed by war in 1947. Villagers regard it as a sacred tree.


Gatehouse at the corner


Looking at the magnificent Zhenwu Hall from a distance, the most exquisite thing is the glazed roof of the roof.


Kongwangxing Temple was rebuilt in the 41st year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty, 1613 AD, 396 years ago. The main hall faces south from the north, and there is a statue of Kongwang Buddha in the hall, and the gable wall is painted with murals of the story of Kongwang Buddha becoming a Buddha. The three-color glazed decoration of the Ming Dynasty on the top of the hall is exquisitely cut and fired, and the image is lifelike and lifelike.

There are two rare glazed tablets under the front porch of the Kongwangfo Palace, and the stone tablet on the west side records the construction process of the Kongwangfo Palace.

The picture shows that the stone tablet on the east side records the arduous journey of Kongwangfo's cultivation and becoming a Buddha.


Inside is an ancient castle museum, which is an exhibition hall of cultural relics collected by the castle.

tractor

Prayer Tower

Phoenix wings and flying ridge glazed components

Lion elephant camel vase brick carving

There was Zhaizi Geda first, and then Zhangbi Village. Its history can be traced back to the Yangshao period.

North Castle Gate, the north and south castle gates are invisible to each other, they are not in a straight line, because the main street connecting the two castle gates is intentionally curved at both ends, slightly "S" shape , and this is in consideration of "feng shui does not flow out".

There are crescent-shaped ponds in front of many courtyards.

Yongchun Building, the alley gates preserved to this day, they are the only exits of each "lifang". After the alley gates are closed, each lifang becomes a relatively closed fort within a fort, and the lifangs can fight independently and echo each other, forming a complete internal defense system.

It just so happens that a crew is filming a TV series

The steps of the upper city wall have been worn out, and the corroded bricks and smoothed stones all show the importance of the old fortress.

Zhangbi is backed by Mianshan Mountain. Due to the high and steep terrain of Mianshan Mountain, it is full of "rushing" energy, so the Guandi Temple was built outside Nanbao Gate to block the "evil spirit" from Mianshan Mountain.

Da Yong Master

Fort Yin Qinglong Array Qianqiu Horizontal Crescent Moon

The door is tied to the red rabbit, and the love leads thousands of miles to be chased

The horizontal batch is "named Qi Daiyue"


The clay-clad iron statue was originally the Avalokitesvara Hall, where Avalokitesvara with Thousand Hands was enshrined. During the Cultural Revolution, when the Guanyin statue was demolished, it was discovered that it was hidden in the fort wall, and it was a unique clay-clad iron statue. It is still a mystery who this image portrays and why the ancients worshiped him in this secret way.

Looking back at the castle, I feel its mystery, it is really the crystallization of wisdom!

One thousand six hundred years of cold and heat, the barriers are strict but bright.

Immortal and majestic, the present is better than the past, and it stands awe-inspiring in the world.

Walking for 1,300 years, traveling through 1,600 years, the thousand-year-old castle Wanfeng is authentic, Zhangbi Castle is really authentic.


The actual time for this trip is only five days. After the Zhangbi Castle tour, I went straight to the airport, boarded the plane back at 8 o'clock in the evening, and arrived home at nearly one o'clock in the morning.


"Look at Beijing for the scenery of five hundred years, and look at Shanxi for the scenery of five thousand years." Shanxi's ancient, Shanxi's simplicity, Shanxi's clumsiness, and Shanxi's simplicity have condensed into the soul of Chinese civilization. And we only visited the south-central part of Shanxi, but we also felt the wonderful history and sincerely couldn't get enough of it. We only hated that we didn't read enough, such as Zhangbi. We thought it was an ancient village with a majority of Zhang surnames. Among the twenty-eight constellations, Zhang Xingxiu and Bi Xingxiu suddenly realized how small and ignorant they were when they saw the true God. This also drove me to be more humble and eager to learn in the future, so as to continuously enrich my knowledge face and experience.