"Wanli Xiake Road, the first step in Ninghai", Ninghai, the opening place of "Xu Xiake's Travel Notes", is located in the east of Zhejiang Province, in the middle of the coastline of mainland China, with rich tourism resources and beautiful environment.
Ninghai, literally split, is the Sea of Tranquility. According to legend, the East China Sea is full of turbulent waves, but the harbor here is calm, hence the name.
This trip will take a 2-day tour in Ninghai, the specific itinerary is as follows:
D1, Longquan Villa in Yishi Town, Qiantong Ancient Town, Jiumufang Homestay in Suqiantong Ancient Town.
D2, Qiantong Ancient Town, Lianghuang Mountain, Shili Hongzhuang Cultural Park.
Every May is the season when white loquats are on the market. At this time, people's attention is fixed on a town in Ninghai County, the "hometown of loquats" in Zhejiang.
The loquat freedom of Zhejiang people depends on Ninghai.
As a popular fruit that is highly sought after in summer, as soon as you enter a town, you will see fruit baskets full of loquats "occupation" on the road. Baskets of loquats are lined up, and many people gather around without the fruit farmers shouting. Pick before the fruit basket.
On the top of the mountain, the white loquats all over the mountain are hung all over the branches. It is very attractive. Once you pick it up, you can directly put the moist and sweet loquat into your mouth. You don’t have to worry about pesticides at all, and you can feel it when you enter it. The sweetness is also mixed with umami, and the whole person is moistened.
There are still people in the world who stubbornly think that loquats are yellow, so they must not know the white loquats in Ninghai.
Ninghai white loquat is also called "Ninghai white", known as "the first treasure of Ninghai". The sour and astringent impression is worthy of being praised as "the best of loquats" by experts in the loquat industry.
Whoever eats it will know, it is a favorite of Zhejiang people!
The most important thing is that the outer skin is very thin, and can be peeled off with a light pull, without wasting a little bit of pulp. When you bite down, the sweet and tender pulp will spread out in your mouth, and the juice will wrap up in an instant Living in the entire mouth, it is so beautiful that it is unexpected.
As the "hometown of loquats" in Zhejiang, a town in Ninghai County was the first to cultivate this high-quality Baisha loquat variety.
This is not only due to the hard work of scientific research personnel, but also inseparable from the unique geographical location and warm and warm weather conditions of Ninghai on the coast of the East China Sea. In 2019, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs awarded "Ninghai White Loquat" as a geographical indication product of national agricultural products.
In order to maintain the original flavor and appearance, the fruit farmers do not use pesticides, waxes, or preservatives. Food safety is the bottom line of principle!
One town insisted: loquats are grown for eating, not for viewing.
May is the busiest time in a town. More than 10,000 mu of mature white loquats must be picked in time. If it is delayed, the fruits will rot on the trees.
Fruit growers have been busy since the early morning. When picking, experienced fruit growers always pick the handles and put them down to keep the small fluff on the outer layer.
The strange thing is that there are no loquats on many loquat trees, but there are light yellow paper bags on the branches. Loquats are bright in color and are not afraid of birds pecking them.
The fruit growers carefully screen each loquat and put them neatly in the fruit baskets.
We picked and ate, and we carried a small basket when we left, and went to the next stop contentedly: Qiantong Ancient Town.
[Qiantong Ancient Town, time has forgotten this place, and tourists have ignored it, but it is a dreamland without beauty]
If you want to feel the life of an ancient town, don't go to those well-known ancient towns, those places are too commercialized, and the people in the town are almost people who come to do business from other places. Now I recommend a small ancient town to everyone, which is Qiantong Ancient Town in Ninghai County.
Compared with other ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River, Qiantong is a different kind of existence. The name is a bit interesting. Back then, there was a Houtong next to it, but it no longer existed.
Qiantong Ancient Town is located 14 kilometers southwest of Ninghai County, where a large number of old houses and old streets from the Ming and Qing Dynasties are well preserved.
Also in the south of the Yangtze River, there are differences. Compared with Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen, Qiantong is not well-known, and it is naturally more clean. In terms of scenery, Qiantong is more primitive, and there are almost no commercial amusement projects. It is very suitable for walking around. , take a photo. China Post has issued a set of "Chinese Ancient Town" stamps, and the first one is Qiantong Town.
Although there are many ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River, there are still very few ancient towns with such fireworks. There is only one main street in Qiantong Ancient Town that sells various specialties, and the other streets and alleys are inhabited by local residents, so they are not disturbed by the name "scenic spot".
Walking on the street is not a bluestone road, but a finely broken cobblestone. Stepping on it is like giving you a free foot massage.
The streets and alleys are narrow and the buildings are dense. Being in it, if you don't pay attention, it's like entering a maze by mistake. If you want to get out of the ancient town, you have to go upstream, because the stream in Qiantong Town flows into the town, which is different from the ancient city of Lijiang.
Chinese gossip is a profound knowledge. The ancestors of the surname Tong laid out the buildings according to the nine palaces and gossips of the character "Hui", introducing Baixi water into the town, and a small canal around the town, making the ancient town more elegant and more beautiful. With spirituality, every door is buzzing, and the stream is singing the story of the ancient town day and night. Although there are no cruise ships, residents have to cross the bluestone slab bridge to enter their homes. It is not a water town, but it is better than a water town.
The ancient town looks a bit dilapidated, revealing the beauty of vicissitudes, highlighting the beauty of turning back time and space, which is enough for people to savor carefully. The scenic spots include Zhisiqiju, Mingjing Hall, Folklore Museum, Tong's Ancestral Hall, Qunfeng Ruohu and "The Barber" filming location. This is the official recommended location, in fact, the unlisted attractions are more worthy of our exploration.
It is said that Qiantong’s Lantern Festival guild is a national intangible cultural heritage. This is one of the largest local folk entertainment activities. Every year from the 14th to 16th of the first lunar month, members of the Tong clan, regardless of gender, old or young, come out with their families and sing happily. A group of gongs, a drum pavilion, and a blunderbuss flower are released. The crowds from the surrounding towns and villages come as scheduled, Wu Yangyang.
The Drum Pavilion exhibits the drum pavilions, pavilions, swings, etc. used in the parade of the Lantern Festival guild. Most of them are original objects from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. And other crafts in one.
There are many opera characters on the drum pavilion, and the lights are hung high, just like a golden dragon dancing wildly. You can only marvel at it.
On May 24, we took a photo together in front of the Guting Pavilion, expressing our presence.
After leaving the Guting Pavilion, everyone took their luggage from the bus and went to the Jiumufang B&B, which will be on the top tonight.
Some people call Qiantong Town "a town on pebbles", because the base of the walls is built of pebbles, and the open space of the courtyard is also paved with pebbles, not to mention the road surface. Pebbles are a terrifying existence in Qiantong Town. As for the suitcase, you should pay attention to the wheels at the bottom of the suitcase when walking in the streets. Anyway, I am a backpack, and I am secretly happy.
Passing by Zhengdetang, it is the original site of Qiantong Primary School. Zhengdetang is a place where people dress upright, and the usage rate seems to be low. Basically, there are only people here when there are official activities. I was the only one in a group of 12 people.
After walking a few steps, I arrived at the old street, which is the commercial center of the ancient town. It was built in the late Qing Dynasty. It was once prosperous, especially on the market day of the lunar calendar. There are some shops and teahouses, but there are no small commodities in Yiwu. The owner of the shop is doing business one after another. On this street, there is no loud shouting, no soliciting and selling, just like the "Ninghai County Chronicle" records. In that way, the people of Qiantong "love their families, fear traveling far, and are not good at doing business", and Ningbo people, one of China's top ten business gangs, have two different ways of life.
Write a stack of postcards at the Qiantong post office and send them to the people you miss.
Rainwater dripped on the lens, but I didn't know, did I drink too much?
At the end of the old street, there is a courtyard house: Tong's Ancestral Hall.
The ancestral hall was built in the eighteenth year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty. It was designed by Fang Xiaoru, a great Confucian of the Ming Dynasty. Fang Xiaoru was a native of Ninghai. Fang Xiaoru, the thief, replied very stiffly: "What's the matter with the ten clans!" The tenth clan is his disciples.
Zhu Di even dared to destroy the emperor, not to mention your little Fang Xiaoru, if you don't write, someone else will write, so Fang Xiaoru was executed. In addition to him, 870 people lost their lives.
Alas, isn't it just to write a notice against your will? Is it so difficult for you to write a few lines? Why bother to deceive so many innocent people.
Fortunately, the courtyard house he designed was not involved, and the main entrance, stage, patio, east and west wing rooms and main hall remained. The big stage inside is now occupied by amateur fans.
There are 32 large columns in the hall, just like 32 chess pieces in chess, implying the meaning of a game of chess for the whole family.
There are many wells in the town, and the residents in ancient times depended on them for drinking water. Looking down, it is not a dry well, but a living well with water.
Numerous ancient wells and gossip water systems form an interesting "well water does not interfere with river water". When the lights are turned on, the well circle of the ancient well looks like it is plated with gold, which is eye-catching.
I bumped into Yifei Cinema directly on the way. I was not prepared for it. It was too unexpected. It is now one of the most popular check-in spots for tourists.
This is the main shooting location of Chen Yifei, a painter and director in the United States, who filmed "The Barber". There must be a reason why he chose this place to film. "Master", recall the scene in the play, where Chen Kun wiped off the neck of a Japanese.
After walking around, I arrived at the store where I stayed that night. The house looked very old, but Fulong, who was careful, found out that it was rebuilt on the old house to make travelers more comfortable, but most people can't see it. Chatting with the landlord is very tiring, neither of them can speak Mandarin.
In order to take care of the business, everyone shared a spoonful of rice, so half of the team was arranged to live in the Qiantong Post Hotel next door.
After settling in, let's go shopping, without the fetters of luggage, the whole person is relaxed. The town is very old and has the feeling of an ancient town in Lijiang, but it is far more rustic than Lijiang. Qiantong is not as noisy as Zhouzhuang, and it is not Wuzhen's business model of driving out residents. This place is not like a scenic spot, but rather like the ancient town where my grandfather lived. It is used for nostalgia. Most people with sentimental feelings will fall in love with this ancient town.
Now the city is getting bigger and bigger, but the homes are getting smaller and smaller. One-story houses are being pulled down and replaced by tall buildings. Residents' homes are not on the ground. This kind of modernization process that ebbs and flows is being Increasingly engulfing traditional historic buildings.
The lanes are dense like cobwebs, and it is difficult to find out the direction when walking in them, and you will get lost in the latitude of time and space without knowing it.
Passing by the Wedding Silver Museum, it was a pity that it was closed.
Qiantong’s lodgings are not as ubiquitous as in Xitang, but some inns have been opened moderately, most of which are low-key in the depths of the alleys, some in the style of ancient times, and some in the style of literature and art.
Green vines, white walls and black tiles, carved stone windows, carved beams and painted gates, reveal the prosperity of the past in the desolation.
Qiantong is vicissitudes, haggard, and quiet. Some streets and alleys are empty. Could it be an empty city?
The alley is deep and deep, without the intrusion of tourists, the years are quiet and good, and the residents of the town live their small lives openly and calmly. Posting this kind of photo to Moments immediately attracted questions: "Why is it so deserted?" It seems that everyone is used to looking at people's heads in tourist attractions. If you don't see them, you will think it's weird.
As early as 2006, they stocked red koi, carp, etc. in the stream. None of the residents went to catch them. Instead, they stocked some fry spontaneously. The picture of the fish swimming in groups has become a unique scenery in the ancient town.
When you walk to the main entrance of the ancient town, you will see Lushan Mountain diagonally opposite. This mountain is the best place to see the panoramic view of the ancient town. It has a good view and you can take pictures of the whole ancient town.
At the main gate of the ancient town, we took a bus to Zizhuyuan Farm, 8 kilometers away, to have dinner. The external environment of the farm is very good. It is located at the foot of the mountain, and the Baixi River also flows through it. By the way, I want to say that in the past two days, we have eaten very satisfying meals, and we have eaten all the specialties of Ninghai.
Snacking in the town at night, each old house has preserved the last breath of the old Jiangnan. Pushing open the wooden door, time pours out from the bright bricks and clear tiles, slowly falling into a dream with the ancient stories that have traveled through thousands of years.
The next morning, I walked around with my luggage, and continued to look at what I hadn’t seen the day before.
When I first heard "Qunfeng Zanhu", I thought it was a few mountains, but unexpectedly it was a small courtyard hidden in a narrow alley.
I asked the tour guide, what is "Qunfeng Zanhu", she raised her hand and pointed upwards, it turned out that Qunfeng Zanhu refers to the corner of the house, which is beyond my imagination.
Zanhu, the meaning of crown hairpin and hand-made, is something used by ancient officials.
Qunfeng Zanhu was built in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. The owner was Tong Guilin, a Juren in the Qing Dynasty. He was once the vice president of Xiling Yinshe, but it ended badly.
Standing in the middle of the courtyard, it seemed as if he heard him complaining about his grievances.
The buildings in the Ming and Qing Dynasties reached a peak. They paid attention to rigor, neatness and elegance. They mostly used blue-gray brick walls and tile roofs, which highlighted the combination of beams, columns and purlins, and had a greater architectural space effect. human interest. Bricks and stones were also widely used in the buildings of the Qing Dynasty, which promoted the development of masonry structures.
If you are tired from walking, please don’t miss the delicacies in the ancient town. Some locals set up stalls on the side of the road, and some still hang the certificates they won. When passing by, the boss warmly invited us to try it for free. You can try the "previous "Three Treasures of Tong" (Qiantong Tofu, Qiantong Xianggan, Qiantong Hollow Tofu) are extremely delicious, and you can try them until you are full.
Although Changsha stinky tofu is very popular, although everyone calls it tofu, Qiantong has his own trick. In addition, soup dumplings, wheat paste, wheat cakes, mochi, etc. also have unique flavors, and the prices are not expensive.
In Qiantong, there is also Xiake Songhua Cake with a sense of presence. Legend has it that when Xu Xiake came to Qiantong, the people took out wheat cakes to entertain him. As a gourmet traveler, Mr. Xu instructs the people to roll out the crust of the cake thinly, and then roll it thinner again. After it is baked, it is really fragrant, and it has become Qiantong's special snack ever since.
Xiake Songhua Cake is mainly made of flour and pine flowers. It has a fragrance in the mouth, and a taste can open up the two veins of Ren and Du.
Walking around casually, you will always find different scenery, one end is reality, the other end is Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Qiantong Ancient Town was yelled away before it was enough to visit.
[Emperor Liang Xuan has been here, Xu Xiake has been here, who will come next? 】
Lianghuang Mountain is a famous mountain in eastern Zhejiang with steep mountains and flooded with waterfalls.
What makes it famous is not because of its appearance, but because of one person, he is Emperor Liang Xuan.
It is said that during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Emperor Liang Xuan was just a prince, and his official name and position was Yueyang Wang Xiaocha. He was involved in the Hou Jing Rebellion, and in order to save his life, he hid in a deep mountain in Ninghai County in a panic and lived in seclusion here. Later, the time came , Get out of the mountain and get an emperor to practice his hands, so later generations named this unnamed mountain Lianghuang Mountain.
A few years after Emperor Liang Xuan left the mountain, Xiao Xu, a travel expert, came here. Unlike Emperor Liang Xuan who hid here in fear, he sang about the mountain loudly and wrote it in "Xu Xiake's Travel Notes", which is still the author of the book. beginning.
On May 25th, we entered Lianghuang Mountain. The first scenic spot was Shangma Stone, known as "the first stone in the south of the Yangtze River". In 584 A.D., Xiao Cha, the king of Yueyang who escaped the limelight, stepped on this stone and rode out of the mountain, and later became the founding emperor of Xiliang.
In 1613, Xu Xiake, the ancestor of donkey friends, came to Lianghuang Mountain on horseback. After learning about this story, he also followed Lianghuang's stepping on a rock to mount a horse. From this point of view, this "first stone in the south of the Yangtze River" has two allusions of "founding the country" and "opening", and has a high gold content.
I chose the road on the right, and then I came to the flower language of wisteria. I walked under it in summer and said goodbye to ultraviolet rays.
On the way, I encountered a miniature temple dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva. Most of the passing tourists did not stop here, so don't bully the temple. At that time, Xiao Cha, the king of Yueyang, led his troops back to Beijing under the guidance of Guanyin, quelled the war, and became emperor.
As we walked straight up, we began to hear the splashing of the stream. There is a huge boulder in the water, the name is: the stone comes to rotate. The color head is good, the stone character is not too obvious.
When you come to the "Xinxintan", you can see the clear water, cleanse the dust and cleanse the heart even more. It is said that the scholars of Gongtai Academy were instructed by the old monks to come to this pool to wash their hearts, ten fingers connected to their hearts, washing their hands and washing their hearts, and then re-examination, high school champions.
I'll wash my hands too.
Several young friends started to rest when they arrived at Yanxia Pavilion, but our older ones were still full of energy.
The scenic area has abundant water and many waterfalls. The picture above is the Sanxian waterfall, with silver flowers scattered, water droplets splashing jade, and water mist.
Along the way, dozens of large and small waterfalls cascade down from the cliffs. The "Seven Immortals Waterfall" is like seven fairies descending to the earth. Seeing the waterfall dancing, all of them are graceful and elegant.
Climbing to the middle of the mountain, there is a flying magic carpet here, which rises at a constant speed and is very stable. It will take you up the mountain easily, good news for lazy people.
Get off the Flying Magic Carpet and come to Xinxingtan. When you get here, put aside all the things like contract negotiation and job title competition. Oxygen inhalation is the serious business.
If you want to last forever, come here to take a photo. The highlight of the "Lovers Waterfall" is the stone in the middle of the two waterfalls. The interesting point of this stone is the shape of "heart".
Dog abuse.
Intense and exciting projects are coming. What we are facing is "high-altitude walk". The steel bars under the feet are leaky. Don't look at the feet, otherwise you will be so scared that your legs will not know how to move forward.
There is such a project at the location corresponding to the high-altitude walk. Look, there are no guardrails. This is simply an intention to murder tourists. Fulong, I still can’t name the project. Fortunately, it is closed during the rainy season. .
Connected to them is the glass bridge, which spans the sky like a white belt.
The Glass Bridge is a popular scenic spot. It just rained, and when the staff saw tourists coming, they hurriedly used mops to clean up the accumulated water on the bridge.
The glass bridge is more than 60 floors above the ground. When people walk on the bridge, clouds float around. This is the place where we stay the longest.
In the middle of the bridge, a viewing platform protruding out is specially set up, which is semi-circular in shape, which is convenient for tourists to view the scenery and take pictures.
What I hate the most is that the scenic spot gives the glass bridge a 5D effect for the sake of fashion. This is purely a gimmick. Fortunately, Lianghuang Mountain has its own strength.
After crossing the glass bridge, something more terrifying is waiting for you, the cliff swing, a death game, anyway, I cherish life.
The scenic spot does not call this cliff swing, but an adventure park.
It is said that the sky of Chaka Salt Lake is so dreamy, but they don’t know that the sky of Lianghuang Mountain is not inferior. The one in Chaka is on the lake, and the one here is in the sky.
The sky realm on the top of the mountain is closer to the sky, and it deserves its name. It has become a check-in place for Internet celebrities, and women love it.
We are here to feel the magical magic brought by the mirror, which is really a mirror for demons.
After filming the person sitting on the hanging chair, and then switching to the seat bench, the film is also very good.
The consequences of this kind of punch card posting on the circle of friends are very serious, and it is completely hatred.
If you want to pursue blockbuster movies, it is necessary for beauties to take off their shoes and socks.
Stepping on the cold mirror with bare feet, this kind of fighting spirit deeply moved me.
If you don't take off your shoes, the beauty of the picture will be greatly reduced, so don't listen to me.
Plastic sisters, get on it.
There is a glass slide down the mountain, which can quickly take tourists to the bottom of the mountain without being so tiring on foot. When sitting on the slide, pay attention to keeping a certain distance to avoid rear-end collision. The Butterfiy beauty thought I was sliding slowly, and she stuck her feet on the sides to brake from time to time.
After reaching the ground, there is still a section of mountain road to go, and soon there is a scene ahead, called Yougu Tingquan.
Hearing that Emperor Liang was about to come out of the mountain, Jin Chan ran over to present treasures, and this was the scene of "Golden Chan presenting treasures". No wonder Xu Xiake praised: "The peaks are prosperous and the water is connected, the trees are beautiful and the rocks are strange."
After descending the mountain, we rushed back to Ninghai County without stopping, where there was a bustling scenic spot.
[Walk into Shili Hongzhuang Cultural Park and see how Ninghai County married women in ancient times]
How much gift money does it cost to marry a wife from Ninghai, Zhejiang?
Don't need money, but earn money! Let you save 20 years of struggle!
You heard it right, in Ninghai County, it is the opposite of the current phenomenon of "can't afford to marry". In ancient times, women couldn't afford to marry.
Since the Song Dynasty, Ninghai has had the custom of rich marriage, which is often called "ten miles of red makeup".
"Ten Miles of Red Makeup" is an adjective that is half exaggerated and half realistic. It refers to a very rich dowry. The dowry is full of red lacquer and gold. On the day of the wedding, the bar box clears the way, the sedan chair is in the middle, and the boxes, cabinets, tables, chairs, buckets, basins and other red-lacquered dowry items are followed to show off the wealth of the woman's family property in a high-profile way.
The wedding procession is mighty, like a golden dragon in a red robe, the first to carry the dowry into the man's house, and the last one may be still at the woman's house, stretching for ten miles, with the sound of gongs and drums and firecrackers all the way , happily went to the man's house, so it was called "Ten Miles of Red Makeup".
It is said that the custom of red makeup in ten miles in eastern Zhejiang originated in the Song Dynasty and is related to Song Gaozong. One day, Zhao Gou, who had not yet become emperor, fled to Ninghai, Zhejiang Province. When he was dying, he was rescued by a beautiful village girl. I will come to marry the village girl.
Zhao Gou became the empress, and without breaking his promise, he came to marry a village girl, but the village girl was unwilling to marry into the palace, so she resorted to a trick. All the girls in the village were covered with red scarves, so that Zhao Gou couldn't tell who was him. The village girl she was looking for, in desperation, had no choice but to decree: "All women in eastern Zhejiang will be crowned kings", and when they get married, they can enjoy the treatment of a half-coach.
Although the wedding customs of Shili Hongzhuang no longer exist, there is still a place in Ninghai that we can reminisce and feel. It is Shili Hongzhuang Cultural Park, which is the largest wedding custom cultural park in Zhejiang Province.
The Shili Hongzhuang Cultural Park uses bamboo, wood, stone, earth, and metal as the main building materials, coupled with the inherent landscape garden elements in the south of the Yangtze River, which fits well with the artistic conception of Ninghai's "humanistic mountains, smart mountains and waters". The work of Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Wang Shu.
There are 10 exhibition halls in the Shili Red Makeup Cultural Park, which collect more than 2,000 pieces of red makeup collections such as sedan chairs, beds, cabinets, tables and chairs, dressing dowry, etc., reappearing people's longing for a beautiful married life.
The most conspicuous one should be the "Wangong sedan chair". You can feel how complicated its process is from the name. The Wangong sedan chair is made of wood. The subtlety is that there are 400 nails on the sedan chair. Statues, as well as countless flowers, plants, birds and insects. It is said that making such a sedan chair requires the cooperation of many people and takes 10,000 man-hours. The Wangong sedan chair was once on the "National Treasure".
Looking around, a charming child is like a miniature palace. How happy is the bride sitting here?
