In the long history of thousands of years in China, I always prefer the ancient city, not only because of its magnificent appearance, but also because of its thickness and stability after years of precipitation. So taking advantage of the summer vacation, I set off for the ancient city of Pingyao, which is one of the four best-preserved ancient cities in China. My excitement along the way is really beyond words.
Let's go
We set off from Nanjing, because there is no airport in Pingyao, so we have to transfer after arriving in Taiyuan. There are bullet trains, trains, and buses to choose from. We chose the bullet train, but it was already night after arriving in Pingyao. The inn was randomly found on the Internet, and the evaluation environment looked good. It was called Deshenglou Inn. When we got there, it was really nice inside. On the way, I also enjoyed the beautiful night view of Pingyao.
DAY 1
morning in the ancient city
On the first day of living in the ancient city, I was quite excited. I woke up very early, and I simply cleaned up myself before going out.
Walking in the ancient city in the early morning, maybe because I came out too early, most of the shops have not opened yet, but when I walked to South Street, there were many vendors selling vegetables and fruits at the stalls, and the calls and inquiries along the way seemed abnormal Lively, full of strong breath of life.
Because the inn I was staying in was on South Street, I walked along it until I reached the end and turned to East Street. The streets here are not so lively, and there are fewer merchants, and more people who walk further are living. The elderly usually get up very early, and everyone takes a small bench and sits outside together, chatting, choosing vegetables, or simply watching the passers-by on the road. This kind of slow life is really wonderful!
Synergy Qing Bank
After the stroll, it was almost time, so I went back to meet up with my friends. We randomly found a noodle restaurant on the road, had breakfast, and officially started our trip.
The scenic spots in the ancient city all need tickets. A pass is 125, and the student ticket is half-price 65. This ticket can basically enter all the scenic spots in the ancient city. It is valid for three days, which is quite a deal. There are many ticket offices in the ancient city, just find one close to you.
At this time, the shops are almost open, and the vegetable vendors have also been put away. Instead, they sell all kinds of snacks, toys, antiques and things full of Pingyao characteristics.
Pingyao Features---Pushing Lacquerware
Vanilla rice, and a salty version called vanilla meat
Pingyao's special handmade mooncakes
stone cake
Since we started from South Street, the first stop we went to was Synergy Qing Bank. This bank is the largest existing bank courtyard in Pingyao. There are seven interconnected and independent courtyards in front and back. The most famous one is his underground treasury. In the fifth courtyard, there are ten warehouses under it. gold and silver. This treasury is also the only one among the many banks in Pingyao that retains an underground treasury and is open to tourists. After going down, the first thing you see is a dragon pillar. It is said that as long as you touch the dragon's tail from the dragon's tail to the dragon's head, but don't touch the dragon's head, you will be lucky and have the meaning of making a fortune.
This is the back door, there are too many people at the front door, I forgot to take a picture (embarrassing...)
Going further inside, there are all kinds of treasuries. It seems to be in the No. 9 vault. There is a secret passage. People in the past said that they saw money entering the bank but not going out. This passage was built for the purpose of transporting money out. Sure enough, the wisdom of the ancients is really beyond our comparison.
city building
On South Street, I saw a very conspicuous building from a distance. I didn't know until I walked in that this building was called Shilou, which was said to be located in the center of Pingyao. The former location was a well, because people often came here to exchange things, and after a long time, the place became more and more prosperous and developed into a city building.
Rishengchang Bank
After we came out, we went to the Rishengchang Bank on West Street. It is known as the first bank in China. promotion. The founder, Lei Lutai, has made great contributions to the development of China's financial industry.
On the way to Rishengchang, I smelled a very fragrant vinegar smell. Although Shanxi’s mature vinegar is famous, this one is really fragrant. I couldn’t help but go in and have a look. The store is called Niangjia Vinegar Square. As soon as you enter the door, you will see a photo wall with many celebrities on it. It seems that it is still a celebrity vinegar workshop. The proprietress was also very enthusiastic, allowing us to taste it for free, and also introduced us to various vinegars and their own brewed wine very seriously. I used to really think that there is only one kind of vinegar used as a condiment in this world, but I didn't expect that there are apple cider vinegar, honey vinegar, all of which taste very good. The items in the store are free shipping for five catties, which is quite a deal. Thinking that my father likes vinegar, and that vinegar has many benefits for the human body, I put together five catties with my friends.
As soon as I arrived at the entrance of Rishengchang, I felt the enthusiasm of the tourists. There were really many people, especially when entering the courtyard. The courtyard is not big, but so many people poured in, but who let it be the peak of summer vacation. An interesting phenomenon, all the water tanks in the yard have money invested by tourists. Perhaps everyone wants to get a taste of the wealth of this yard that once controlled the lifeline of the entire Qing Dynasty in the 19th century.
Walking along the way, the number plate I saw after I came out was indeed Wei Taihou, which was the second largest bank in the country at that time, breaking Rishengchang's exclusive monopoly of the whole world, and its strength should not be underestimated.
Today's two ticket offices are no longer facing each other as they used to, but they are united together to show everyone the glory of the past and quietly tell the story of Shanxi merchants.
perfect lunch
After walking all morning, it was time for lunch. Because there are really too many choices in the ancient city, it is really difficult for me who has a choice phobia. I remembered that there is a restaurant in front of the inn we stayed in - Hongwuji. I checked it online and it has a good reputation, and the dishes are quite rich. The key is the location. It is also very convenient to rest in the inn.
Although there are not many of us, we have a big appetite, hahahaha. In fact, I also want to try more special dishes, such as oily pork, beef 栲栳栳, bowl holders... These are of course must be ordered, the special ones are also Pingyao's specialties, and Hongwuji's yellow rice cold cake , Braised beef with aged vinegar, so delicious! The taste is really good, the environment is also very good, antique, with light music in your ears, and the waiters are very enthusiastic and patient.
County government
After a lunch break, start the afternoon itinerary.
After all, it was too hot in summer, and I really didn't want to go out. I didn't go out until about 15 o'clock. The innkeeper told us that there was a performance at the county government office just at 15:30 in the afternoon, and we walked towards the county government office excitedly.
Pingyao County Government is one of the four well-preserved ancient government offices in China, and it is also the largest existing county government in the country.
As soon as you enter the door, you will be greeted by the vast courtyard, which faces south and is symmetrical about the central axis, which is really beautiful.
As soon as we arrived, the actors began to prepare props. The story I’m telling today is about a yamen servant who stole money from ordinary people. After being discovered by the county magistrate, he didn’t repent at all, and said that someone above him could save him. When the county magistrate heard this, he looked at him with disdain, and then said very justly, "To be an official, you must be upright and honest, and you should not be afraid of the rich and powerful." I forgot the specifics. After all, only officials who truly think about the people can be respected by the people and can exist for a long time. According to historical records, during the period when Pingyao's economy controlled the entire dynasty, there was not a single corrupt official. We have to admire the strength of Shanxi merchant culture.
After watching the performance, we started to walk in, prison, office, residence, back garden, stage, court, everything. There is also a Tingyu Building. It is said that because the county magistrate is busy with affairs and cannot come out to observe the people's conditions often, he will go up this building in his spare time to observe the daily life of the people. The county magistrate is really responsible and serious.
Is there a feeling of the Forbidden City?
Town God's Temple
After coming out of the county government office, we walked eastward to the Chenghuang Temple. Ancient buildings generally pay attention to the symmetry of the central axis, so the county government and the Town God's Temple are located one west and one east, completely along the central axis.
Entering inside, first there is a road with the twelve zodiac signs on both sides, and each of the twelve zodiac signs is done vividly. Going further inside is the City God's Hall. There is a wishing wall at the entrance of the hall, on which various wishes are written with signs or banners. People, in many cases, really need something to express their emotions. Even if this kind of wishing wall is everywhere, everyone is still willing to believe it. There is also a temple of the God of Wealth, which can be worshipped.
Temple of Literature
After coming out, walk a few steps forward to the back door of the Confucian Temple, and we went in by the way. There is also a Nine Dragon Wall next to it, and uncles and aunts are taking photos with this wall. The Nine-Dragon Wall is nothing more than a good hope for people.
There is also a Chaoshan Academy in the Confucian Temple, which was founded by Xu Jiyu.
The most famous one is Longmen, one jump is the title of the gold list, so every year during the college entrance examination, parents will bring their children to jump here. What I remember most clearly is that three jumps are a source of wealth, so I jumped three times decisively, hahahaha. The word "kui" on the wall is said to have been written by Wen Tianxiang. I hope that the future champion of Pingyao will add that point. Unfortunately, there has never been a champion in Pingyao, and the character has been missing a bit.
After coming out of the Confucian Temple, the opposite is Yunlu Fengqing Street, which is a bar street. It should be more fun to come at night.
By the way, friendly reminder, the opening hours of attractions are from 8:00 to 18:00 in summer and from 8:00 to 17:30 in winter. The time we came out of the Confucian Temple was basically based on stepping out.
the sunset is beautiful
catholic church
When I entered the Confucian Temple, I saw a pointed, church-like building. After visiting the Confucian Temple, we turned back again. It was a Catholic church. I didn’t expect there to be a church here, and it was beautifully built. of.
night
I was still quite tired after walking in the afternoon, so I went back to the inn to rest for a while, and wanted to come out to enjoy the night view after dark.
The ancient city at night is more lively, bustling and brightly lit.
There are really many bars in the ancient city, and you can see one after walking for a while, and each of them is decorated with unique characteristics, and there are singers singing in it. This kind of life is really comfortable. But we were timid and didn't dare to go in.
Red lanterns hang high
Pingyao, I am very happy to meet you! Really like it very much!
DAY 2
on the wall
Today is another day where we need to get up early, because we are going to climb the city wall!
The city wall has two gates, the north gate and the south gate, to go up, and whichever gate you go up, you come down through the opposite door. We chose the nearest south gate to climb up.
In fact, there is nothing else on the city wall, just walk along the city wall. But walking on the bricks that have gone through thousands of years of wind and rain, and imagining the stories of the past, you will feel very emotional. I like this very much.
I'm too lazy to change clothes, hahahaha
North China Escort
After coming down from the city wall, we decided to go to the North China Escort Bureau, which is where "Where Are We Going, Dad" was recorded before.
On the way to the Escort, I saw an old house, which was quite nice.
The mission of the bodyguard bureau is to transport cash for commercial workers, so it is necessary to train many bodyguard masters with high martial arts skills. The Escort Bureau is where these Escort Masters live, practice martial arts, and store gold and silver.
In fact, I'm not very interested in these, but because I bought the ticket, let's walk around, otherwise I will be thankful.
Walking in the rivers and lakes, enjoy your kindness and hatred! Ha ha ha ha
Going east from the North China Escort Bureau, there is a Qingxu temple, and after a lot of effort to walk there, he is actually repairing it, so there is no way to get in. So friends who want to come to Pingyao to play recently, just give up this point.
Going out ahead is the east gate, so we decided to go out of the city to have a look and eat a local restaurant. I just walked into one, and I have forgotten the name of the store, but the taste is really good and delicious.
rushing afternoon
After a short break for dinner, we re-entered the city. This time it's time to go shopping next to each other.
The first one, Yongqingxiang-China Rare Newspaper Exhibition Hall, has a lot of weird and interesting newspapers in it. What impresses me the most is that there is a happy newspaper, which records the news of the two people's wedding and the story of their relationship. This kind of relationship blessed by everyone is very enviable.
The second one, Baichuantong, is a private museum of Shanxi merchants, displaying various utensils of Shanxi merchants and witnessing the prosperity they used to live.
After eating at noon, it splashed on the clothes again without any suspense!
Every time I look in the mirror in an ancient house like this, I wonder if it will suck me in? Maybe I watched too many time-travel dramas, hahahaha
There are koi in many yards, I hope everyone who sees them will be lucky!
The third one is the Tongxing Public Escort Agency, which is mentioned in "See Pingyao Again", and is responsible for escorting the children of shopkeeper Wang home.
The fourth one is the Museum of the Escort Bureau of China. There are really too many escort bureaus, knowing that they are very much the same, but I still went in. Inside, I met a little girl wearing a phoenix coronet to take pictures, and a little boy hitting a boxing belt, so cute, hahaha.
The fifth house, Wei Shengchang, was the residence of Cixi and Guangxu in Pingyao when they fled. (The bedroom? That should be the way to say it) I don’t know what they were thinking when they lived in such a small county. Do you blame yourself for not governing the country well? Or do you dislike such a rough environment?
Oh my god, it's almost over at last, I'm so tired!
DAY 3 see Pingyao again
The sessions of "Encounter Pingyao" are generally at 14:00 and 19:00, with a rest every Monday, and additional sessions are generally at 16:00 and 21:00. Tickets are 238 yuan each, which feels a bit expensive, but after you watch it, you will definitely find it worth it, because it is really great! It was so shocking!
The story he tells is that at the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhao Yishuo, the owner of the Pingyao ticket office, went with 232 bodyguards from the Xinggong Security Bureau in order to protect a bloodline of the shopkeeper of the semicolon king from Tsarist Russia. Seven years later, Zhao Dong's family and 232 bodyguards all died on the way, and the blood of the Wang family continued. It is a story about inheritance and culture.
The whole performance lasts 90 minutes. In the theater, the audience has to move together with the actors. The constantly changing scenes and lighting bring a great sensory experience to the audience. (Why does this sound like propaganda?)
In the whole show, my favorite scene is the "souls go home" scene, where the souls of the bodyguards tell their own stories in the dark. Their homesickness, fear, and sadness can't be expressed, and they can only walk all the way to danger. No one wants to put their lives on others, but for the sake of friendship, they still do it, even knowing that they may never come back. Now that they have accepted this task, they must complete it. This is the most important thing for Shanxi people. In fact, I would think, if the bodyguard did not complete the task, but he came back alive, what is everyone's attitude? Is it to blame? Or relief?
I stole these pictures from the Internet because I forgot to take pictures again! Sorry everyone.
After watching it, I still can't find peace of mind. But there is no time, and I am going to go back in the afternoon. After returning to the inn to pack up my things and saying goodbye to the boss, I set off for the station.
Alright, Pingyao, I'm leaving you. Although it was only a few days, I really had a great time. I will always cherish the scenery, food, human relationship and stories here. I am really sad. I hope that when I see you next time, you will still be so charming.