"The first hurdle in the east of Youji, the sea is connected with the sea and the green is on the pillow".
Starting from Beijing, head east along the coast of the Bohai Sea, pass through Tangshan and Qinhuangdao, and you will arrive at Shanhaiguan, the "No. 1 Pass in the World".
This city named after the pass has actually been built for a long time. It originally belonged to Youzhou, and it has been an important military site since ancient times. It was called "Linyu Pass" in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and "Linlu Pass" in the Song Dynasty. The city is like a key, guarding the important land between Yanshan Mountain and Bohai Sea. In the Ming Dynasty, General Xu Da came here and rebuilt the remnants of the Great Wall of the past dynasties to build a set of solid defense lines, which became the starting point of the east end of the famous Great Wall of Ming Dynasty. In another hundred years, Qi Jiguang, the commander-in-chief of "I don't want to be a Marquis, I hope Haibo will be peaceful" will guard this place, and even pull the Great Wall on land into the sea. The original name comes from the combination of lofty mountains, vast sea and strong city.
Xiongguan is a long way, as solid as gold.
But the fortress is often broken from the inside. More than 300 years ago, in the year of Jiashen at the end of the Ming Dynasty, Wu Sangui let the Qing army enter the pass, and a big battle next to Shanhaiguan determined the history of modern East Asia for hundreds of years. historical pattern.
Time flies, time flies, time is like grass snakes and gray lines, the weight of past history can still be found in the majestic first pass city walls, towers, and countless museums, while the former defense sites have become tourist attractions. A good place to escape the summer heat—walking on the waves at the beach, rafting on the Bohai Sea in a speedboat, having a cup of Shanhaiguan old popsicles with a unique taste, or feasting on seasonal seafood... The life in the ancient city is comfortable and quaint, and the ladies of Hanfu come here It's also pretty good to shoot the last group!
Trailer released——
The first pass in the world - Shanhaiguan.
The old leader of the Great Sea Wall built by Qi Jiguang.
by the sea
The antique environment is very suitable for shooting ancient costumes.
Chenghai Building, the old leader.
The first pass in the world under the night.
After a summer rain, the quiet ancient city of Shanhaiguan.
The first pass in the world, more than 300 years ago, this battle determined the historical pattern of East Asia
The Great Wall is one of the symbols of China, but there are many passes thousands of miles away, and the only one known as "the first pass in the world" is Shanhaiguan near Qinhuangdao.
Regarding Shanhaiguan located in Qinhuangdao, the deepest impression is that at the end of Ming Dynasty and the beginning of Qing Dynasty, Wu Sangui was so angry that he became a beauty, and after opening Shanhaiguan, gold entered the customs. This pass, which has been regarded as the starting point of the eastern end of the Ming Great Wall for a long time, is very majestic, with towering walls, thick bricks and stones, and various defensive methods. If it is not an active switch, it will not be easy to conquer the secondary pass .
The plaque of "No. 1 Pass in the World" in Shanhaiguan is also imposing. It was written by Xiao Xian, a Jinshi in the eighth year of Chenghua in Ming Dynasty and a native of Shanhaiguan. Shanhaiguan is an important barrier to the east of Beijing. It guards the Liaoxi Corridor and is an important guard for the safety of the capital of the Ming Dynasty.
Shanhaiguan got its name because it leans against Yanshan Mountain in the north, connects to the Bohai Sea in the south, and Guancheng is named between the mountains and the sea. When Qi Jiguang, a famous anti-Japanese general of a generation, was appointed as the commander-in-chief of Jizhen, he added passes and enemy towers here, and opened the Great Wall on land into the sea (the old leader). Shanhaiguan has also become a solid line of defense.
It is a pity that Shanhaiguan, which was originally used to resist outside the customs, did not play its due role in the end. In 1644, Li Zicheng captured Beijing, and Emperor Chongzhen hanged himself. At this time, Wu Sangui, who was guarding Liaodong, was tossed around among various forces. Finally, he chose to sacrifice the pass and surrender to the Qing Dynasty. Taking advantage of the trend, it swept through the pass and finally established the Qing Dynasty, thus determining the historical pattern of East Asia for hundreds of years.
Linlu Building, at the north corner of Guancheng City, is a defensive building that guards Shanhaiguan City. Now there are Ming Dynasty cannons on display in the building.
The wide city wall of Shanhaiguan is almost as wide as three lanes, which is very conducive to the formation of troops, easy to defend and difficult to attack, but unfortunately it failed to play the role of its original construction.
The statues of Ming soldiers on the wall show that the use of firearms by the Ming army was quite common at that time. Zhan Yun has gone, Xiongguan is still there. Now Shanhaiguan has become a tourist area, and many tourists come here every day.
After a hearty summer rain, the ancient city of Shanhaiguan shone brightly in the dark blue twilight. The air was exceptionally fresh, and it was a cool summer night in the quiet ancient city.
The Great Wall at Sea built by Marshal Qi Jiguang—Old Dragon Head
When you arrive at Shanhaiguan, you have to come to Laolongtou - this is the part of "sea" in the three characters of "Shanhaiguan".
The defense system of Shanhaiguan extends from the Yanshan Mountains in the north to the Bohai seashore in the south. The old dragon head is the Great Wall on the Bohai Sea—accurately speaking, this is a "Great Wall on the Sea". The waves of the sea are beneath your feet. On the closed wall by the sea, the towering Chenghai Building is very eye-catching. It is known as "the Great Wall connects the sea to the sky, and people fly to the top of the building." The vision is invincible, and the heroic spirit suddenly rises. The inscription on the plaque in front of the building is "Wanli Xiongjin", which is said to be written by Sun Chengzong, a famous scholar in the late Ming Dynasty.
Sitting on a speedboat and looking at the old dragon head on the Bohai Sea, the tallest building is Chenghai Tower.
The inscription on the plaque in front of the building is "Wanli Xiongjin", which is said to be written by Sun Chengzong, a famous scholar in the late Ming Dynasty.
The old dragon head really became the "Great Wall of the Sea" thanks to the anti-Japanese hero Qi Jiguang. Marshal Qi can be called the god of war in the late Ming Dynasty, and he has achieved great success in military training, combat, and city building. When Qi Jiguang guarded Jizhen, he put the original Great Wall directly into the Bohai Sea and built the "Sea Stone City", so that the land and sea, Shanhaiguan's water and land defense system was completely established.
There are many legends about the old dragon head. The most famous one is that when Qi Jiguang built the Great Wall on the Sea, in order to solve the foundation problem on the beach, he stacked many large iron pots upside down, filled them with gravel, and used them later. The foundation of the city wall. But some people say that there is no iron pot at all. It just happens that there is a section of granite around Laolongtou, which was just used as the foundation of the city wall. Coupled with the reinforcement measures of ancient craftsmen, this section of the Great Wall on the Sea was finally built.
Next to the Old Longtou Sea Great Wall, there is also a Sea God Temple and Longyuan Beach, which is very suitable for playing in the water. The sea water in the Bohai Sea in summer has a clear blue, and the young lady walks barefoot on the fine sand on the beach, which is the summer comfort of relying on the sea and the wind!
Strange couplets in Meng Jiangnv Temple
Several scenic spots in Shanhaiguan are not too far away. On Fenghuang Mountain not far to the east of Shanhaiguan, there is a Meng Jiangnu Temple.
Everyone should have heard the story of Meng Jiangnv crying on the Great Wall, but she was crying on the Qin Great Wall, which seems to have little to do with the Ming Great Wall in Shanhaiguan... The Meng Jiangnv Temple in Shanhaiguan actually has a long history. It was first built in the Song Dynasty. Later, it was rebuilt during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty.
The 108 steps of Meng Jiangnu Temple.
Statue of Meng Jiangnu.
Phoenix Mountain is actually a small hill. After passing 108 steps, you can reach the Meng Jiangnv Temple on the top of the mountain. There are two front and rear halls, and there are Wangfu Stone and Bell Tower next to it. The area is not too large. The most interesting part of this Meng Jiangnv Temple is a couplet in front of the temple gate, known as the first odd couplet in the world. Some people say it was written by Wang Shipeng, the manor manor of the Southern Song Dynasty, while others say it was written by the national hero Wen Tianxiang and the great talent of the Ming Dynasty. Xu Wenchang.
The first couplet is "Sea water is falling towards Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao Chao", the second line is "Floating clouds grow long, long, long, long and fade away". This "朝" has two pronunciations of zhāo and chao, and "长" also has two pronunciations of cháng and zhǎng Pronunciation, it is said that there are a total of 6 pronunciations for this pair of odd couplets, how many can you pronounce?
Walk down the mountain from the top of the mountain. At the foot of the mountain is a Jiangnan garden-style viewing area. In the future, there will be antique buildings such as the Qin Palace. The wind and lotus in the Quyuan, the green trees, the young ladies in Hanfu danced to the song "Cool and Cool" with oil-paper umbrellas here, which really has a bit of the artistic conception of Jiangnan.
Shanhaiguan, a city of museums
I have visited Xi’an, the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties before, and I know that there are many museums in that ancient city. It is said that the number is more than that of McDonald’s and KFC. !
The Bell and Drum Tower of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan at night.
The ancient city of Shanhaiguan gives me the impression that it is a bit like Pingyao, surrounded by old city walls, and there are many merchants in the city, but there are still aboriginal residents coming and going in and out, full of fireworks. The ancient city was built according to the Guancheng. The tall Bell and Drum Tower stands in the middle of the ancient city. Just in the alleys of these ancient cities, you can bump into museums of all sizes inadvertently—the thick history of this place can be seen.
Shanhaiguan is the starting point of the eastern end of the Ming Great Wall, and the Great Wall culture is naturally a must here. In the Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum, you can see the characteristics of the Great Wall—in fact, when the ancestors built this great defense facility, they also used local materials, such as rammed earth, bricks, stones...the styles are very different. Those city bricks, cannons, and weapons from the Ming Dynasty hundreds of years ago and even more distant times are presented here one by one. Our ancestors stood guard on this ancient line of defense and guarded our homeland. .
Cannons on the Great Wall.
Qi Jiguang's Qi family army formation.
Great Wall bricks from the Ming Dynasty.
In addition to the Great Wall and passes with a strong military color, Shanhaiguan is also an important place for "passing through the Guandong" back then. It is not easy to say that "passing through the Guandong" is one of the three major immigration waves in modern China (the other two are "Going to the West" and "Going to Nanyang"), and the "pass" in "Crossing the Guandong" refers to Shanhaiguan . "Kandong" refers to the east of Shanhaiguan, the vast black land in Northeast China today, but it was still sparsely populated at that time.
Passing through the Guandong is one of the three major immigration waves in modern China.
The "pass" in "Crossing the Guandong" refers to the Shanhaiguan Pass.
In the Chuangguandong Theme Cultural Experience Park in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, we can see the restoration of the Chuangguandong. In fact, going through the Guandong is a very difficult journey. During the late Qing Dynasty in the middle of the 19th century, Shandong, Henan, Anhui, and Jiangsu suffered from large-scale floods. Farmers who could not survive in the local area immigrated to the outside of the Guandong, hoping to find new hope there. There are especially many people from Shandong. They either floated in simple sampans, or traveled thousands of miles to Shanhaiguan with their families, and went to the northeast to take root through the east gate of the town that still stands here today. This Shanhaiguan Pass is the meeting point of thousands of immigrants and the dividing point between their future and past.
In the Guandong experience park, you can see the hardships and hard work of the immigrants. The journey of thousands of miles is not easy, and the primitive environment outside the customs also needs to start from scratch bit by bit. They cultivated, felled trees, fished and hunted, and finally filled the vast Northeast land, which was inaccessible before, full of lively fireworks.
Among the 35 million passers-by, Shandong people accounted for the vast majority.
At that time, the natural environment in Northeast China was quite primitive.
Northeast rural landscape.
Climb through the Guandong experience park to reproduce the Northeast cottage.
There are still many museums in the ancient city. In the Shanhaiguan Ancient City History Museum, you can see every bit of Shanhaiguan from ancient times to modern times, from historical celebrities to the lives of ordinary people. The Shanhaiguan Xingru Museum is a place with a strong cultural atmosphere. The ancient couplets and plaques are treasures here, and there are many handwritings by Zhang Tingyu and Ji Xiaolan.
Shanhaiguan Ancient City History Museum
Old newspapers about Shanhaiguan in the Shanhaiguan Ancient City History Museum.
The equipment of anti-Japanese soldiers in Shanhaiguan Ancient City History Museum.
Shanhaiguan Xingru Museum has a strong cultural atmosphere.
Plaques for No. 1 Scholar, No. 2, and Tanhua.
Ancient couplets and plaques are treasures here
There is also a royal compound in Shanhaiguan, the owner once owned half of the city! Chen Yuanyuan also lived here
Everyone knows that there is a royal compound in Lingshi County between Taiyuan and the ancient city of Pingyao in Shanxi.
The owner of the Shanhaiguan Royal Courtyard was also a Shanxi merchant.
Shanhaiguan Royal Courtyard.
The Wang Family Courtyard in Shanhaiguan is a typical northern courtyard-style building. Although the scale of this compound cannot be compared with the Wang Family Courtyard in Shanxi, the owner of the salt merchant business was also the richest man in Shanhaiguan. It is said that he once owned enough Half of Shanhaiguan City is full! By the way, "Wang Bancheng" is talking about him! However, it is said that the "richest man in Shanhaiguan" is not related to the one in Shanxi...
Today's Wang Family Courtyard has been turned into a folklore and history exhibition hall, and there are many guests who come to visit, even if it rains, it doesn't dampen everyone's enthusiasm. The various exhibition halls in the compound show the life of local wealthy households during the Ming and Qing Dynasties-carved beds, Eight Immortals tables, hookahs... everything.
In the marriage and love hall, I saw a wooden plank and a brick on the pole of the dowry. A real local tyrant!
By the way, it is said that the "beautiful woman" in the battle of the last Jiashen "Rushing the crown and becoming a beautiful woman" - Wu Sangui's good friend Chen Yuanyuan also lived here for a while, and you can still see Chen Yuanyuan's boudoir in the Wang family compound. .
Practical strategy
Gourmet articles
In fact, I have been to Shanhaiguan several times before, but this time I stayed for 2 days and realized that the food here is also a must. I would like to recommend a few local delicacies that Zimo particularly likes.
Four buns, a willful bun shop that only sells one kind of bun
This store is on the main street of the ancient city. It was raining heavily when I went there, but the store was full of people, many of whom were locals—it is said that this store has been open for many years. For many Shanhaiguan residents, this is their childhood. the taste of.
This bun shop is very interesting. There is only one kind of bun—pork and scallion, with big stuffing and thin skin. It costs more than 1 yuan. Although the variety is so unique, it is better than the ingredients. It is indeed fat but not greasy. !
Muddy pot, also meat pot
The meat pot is really meaty...they use the same copper pot as the old Beijing shabu-shabu, and some restaurants will use a beautiful cloisonne copper pot, chicken soup as the base, add sauerkraut, pork ribs, meatballs, pork belly, Prawns, meatballs, stewed meat, chicken, frozen tofu,... It's so hot that it makes people's index fingers wide open! In fact, Hunguo was originally a traditional delicacy of the Manchu people. It can also be eaten directly, or it can be served with sesame sauce, fermented bean curd, chive flowers, chili oil, garlic paste, coriander powder, shallots and other dipping materials.
Shanhaiguan Old Sorbet and Shanhaiguan Soda
These two are the perfect match for cooling off the heat! Like ice cream, Shanhaiguan old ice cream is eaten with a spoon and put into a cup. Shanhaiguan soda also has a special taste. A senior foodie lady said that mixing soda and sorbet is more flavorful!
seafood feast
Shanhaiguan is close to the sea, so the fresh seafood is naturally not to be missed! The northern Bohai Sea is a cold water area, and the seafood is always good! Scallops, oysters, crabs, and excellent geiwei prawns, you can say hello!
Hotel
There are also many places to stay in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan. In addition to hotels, there are also many homestays with different characteristics.
Shanhaiguan Bamboo House
The B&B with traditional architectural style has a garden-style courtyard, very spacious rooms, and a tea table, so you can enjoy a cup of tea when you come back at night.
Lin's Home for the Elderly
This hotel is only a few hundred meters away from the first pass in the world, but it is quiet amidst the noise. The courtyard is also in the style of an antique building. The courtyard is quiet and very suitable for family outings.
Shopping
Since ancient times, Shanhaiguan has been the meeting point for materials outside the customs and inside the customs. There are many merchants and a developed economy. Guan Yuanchang is an old firm in the ancient city, and it is said that its history goes as far as the middle of Ming Dynasty. Today's Guan Yuanchang is mainly engaged in local souvenirs in Shanhaiguan, such as local famous snacks such as peanut cakes, mung bean cakes, and quince cakes. By the way, there is also a Pingshu bookstore in Guanyuan Changli, make a pot of tea, I heard that Mr. Shu came to Duan Jiashen to fight, it is very relaxing.
