Every September and October, everyone's favorite topic is: where to go to enjoy the autumn colors? Where is autumn as beautiful as a fairyland?
You and I are looking for autumn, autumn is golden, between the breath of leaves, between the blue sky and white clouds, looking for the most beautiful autumn in China. Come to Kanas, praised by National Geographic and rated as a natural heritage, why is Kanas known as having the most beautiful autumn in China?
First, I took a 3.5-hour flight from Beijing to Urumqi. This is my first trip to Kanas, and I am full of expectations. When we arrived in Urumqi, the weather was very good, so warm that people only wore a short sleeve during the day. This time Urumqi did not stay too long, and boarded the flight to Kanas directly in the early morning of the next day. We landed at Kanas Airport in less than an hour.
Our itinerary is to transfer from Urumqi to Kanas Airport, take a car to Kanas Village, then to Hemu Village, and finally return to Altay Airport from Burqin. Everyone is very concerned about the information about the shuttle bus, accommodation, horseback riding and other information in the Kanas scenic spot. This is really very important.
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Day 1: Seeing Kanas for the first time
"Like a bird flying sideways in the sky, and a fish swimming sideways in the sea, I have never longed for the whole world. I just pass through this world and go to the only small place." - Li Juan.
Kanas Lake means a beautiful and mysterious lake. I have long heard that Kanas in autumn is the most beautiful. In this autumn, I saw Kanas for the first time and looked at the quiet blue lake and the snow-capped mountains not far away. Cattle and sheep scattered on the hillside, the promised years and quiet days came so unexpectedly.
Kanas Grand Scenic Area includes three villages: Kanas Village, Hemu Village and Baihaba Village, including Hanas National Nature Reserve, Kanas National Geological Park, Baihaba National Forest Park, and Jiadengyu National Forest Park , Burqin Valley, a total of 55 large and small scenic spots. It can be said that the area of Kanas scenic spot is quite large, so you must leave enough time for traveling in Kanas.
When you come to the mysterious Kanas, there seem to be many stories waiting here. The forest, meadow, lake, and birch forest are all waiting quietly. All the noise, anxiety and boredom will naturally and silently melt here. no longer exists.
The first place you must know when you come to Kanas Village is: Jiadengyu. Because Jiadengyu is the current scenic spot ticket station, sightseeing car transfer point and tourist living area. The earliest ticket station was in the scenic spot. Later, from the perspective of ecological protection and sustainable development, the management department of the scenic spot evacuated the ticket station and tourist living area to Jiadengyu, which is 30 kilometers away from the core scenic spot. Separation of living areas. There is a small amount of accommodation in the scenic area, so those who can’t grab it will live in Jiadengyu, and entering the Kanas scenic area cannot drive by themselves, so all people entering the Kanas scenic area must take a public shuttle bus.
What I think is worthy of praise is that Kanas Jiadengyu has realized online ticket purchases. Through the o2o smart travel service center, you can directly enter the scenic spot by swiping your ID card and face recognition. This is really convenient. You can store your luggage and buy tickets in cash at the cash window.
There are more than 300 large-scale lakes in Kanas Scenic Area, among which Kanas Lake is the largest and most beautiful and is known as "the most beautiful lake in the world".
Day 1: Take a boat trip to Kanas Lake
The closest way to get close to this mysterious and pure emerald-colored lake is to take a boat trip to Kanas Lake. Going to the Shuanghu Wharf to take a cruise, you have to walk along the wooden plank road for about 1 kilometer by the lake. At this time, the leaves began to gradually turn golden. We walked on the wooden plank road by the lake, and the air was filled with the smell of the forest. The sound of running water, overlooking the snow-capped mountains, is so clear and lofty.
After boarding the yacht, the boat drove out while the water was splashing. I deliberately chose a seat by the window, looking at the shadows of trees on the mountains on both sides. The water of the lake is emerald, shining brightly in the sun. The mountain peaks on both sides pass by with the speed of the boat. There are patches of golden yellow in the sun, and alternating ups and downs in the shadows, and the natural atmosphere is scattered among the mountains.
If you want to reach the depths of the lake, taking a cruise should be the only way. When the cruise ship stops the motor and lets the boat float on the water, the snow-capped mountains in the distance can be seen so clearly. The mountains are all golden, no wonder some people say you have the most beautiful autumn in China.
On our way back from the cruise, we passed roadsides, forests and meadows again. In the forest path that no one has stepped on, the fallen leaves are falling in waves. When I look back, I can see the trees and white clouds completely reflected in the small lake, and I can see the little squirrel running over the trunk of the fallen pine tree out of the corner of my eye. At this moment, Kanas also came into my heart along with the reflection in the water.
When we returned to Kanas Village, we listened to the local herdsmen explain the history, culture, diet, religion and customs of the Tuva people, and performed Humai and Chuwuer with ethnic characteristics with our companions. The "home visit" showed the traditional life of the herdsmen, Original ecological customs, characteristic songs and dances, and home visits have become a window to spread the unique humanities and folk culture of Kanas.
The herdsman who explained led us, took the wine bowl with his left hand, dipped the ring finger of his right hand in the wine and flicked it into the air, which is a respect to heaven; Swipe left to right, this is respect for yourself.
Matouqin is melodious, Chuwuer is melodious, Humai is low, and Tuva Sanxian is in a hurry... In the Dewa folk custom home visit site in Kanas Scenic Area, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, the local band uses ancient and traditional musical instruments to show tourists the brand-new appearance of the Tuva tribe. .
Fortunately, we booked early. In the most beautiful autumn of the year, we stayed at the Golden Lotus Hotel in Kanas Scenic Area, saving a lot of time on the way back and forth.
Day 2: Climb to the Fish Watching Platform to overlook Kanas
Autumn in Kanas is gradually coming. In the melody of the wind and the breath of the grass leaves, there is golden light, shining brightly. The "Fish Viewing Terrace" is built on the "Haracite" mountain at an altitude of 2030 meters. Ascending the viewing fish viewing platform, you can climb 1000+ steps, but you must come up. The scenery is unique, but the Kanas Lake monster does not come out and play.
The Kanas Lake Monster has always been very mysterious. It is said that the best place to find the Kanas Lake Monster is the Fish Watching Tower, because the Fish Watching Tower is the commanding height of the scenery, and everyone who comes to Kanas should go to the Fish Watching Tower . When I was a child watching TV, I liked to watch a program that said that there were water monsters in the mysterious Kanas Lake.
Therefore, the mysterious Kanas Lake monster took root deep in my heart. According to the local people, there is a giant "water monster" in the lake, which often drags the horses drinking by the lake into the water, which adds a bit of mystery to Kanas. According to the investigation, some people think that a big red fish is a local specialty. .
"Lake monster", "cloud sea Buddha light" and "color-changing lake" are the three wonders of Kanas. People who go to the fish viewing platform often want to encounter such natural wonders beautifully. You can go halfway up the mountain by car, and there are more than 1,000 steps on the way to Guanyutai. On the left hand side is the golden mountain, and on the right hand side is the emerald Kanas Lake. Walking up all the way, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery from different angles. The few of us walked up talking and laughing. In fact, we were a little tired when we walked. When we were tired, we stopped and took a rest to look at the scenery. Kanas Lake was quiet beside us.
On the way to the fish viewing platform, there is a viewing platform every other section. Kanas Lake is a famous "color-changing lake". The lake surface will change color with the seasons and weather changes: sunny days are dark blue-green; rainy days Dark gray-green; in different seasons, it will also show different colors. In the hot weather of summer, the lake water will turn into milky white with a slight bluish green, and it will be more blue and pure in autumn.
Sit at Fox Bookstore at noon
How wonderful and important it is to have such a modern bookstore and coffee shop in Kanas in Altay.
There is a very famous writer in Altay—Li Juan. Her prose is delicate, generous, plain and broad, which made me reluctant to put it down after reading it. I have always been curious about what kind of prose Li Juan, who lives in Altay, can write? After coming to Kanas, I understand that people who have lived in such a place can indeed write. She just wrote about her life in Xinjiang, and the life in the book is vivid and beautiful. Living in a spiritual place, the written words are also full of spirituality.
I am very happy to see Li Juan's prose collection in Fox Bookstore, and I am also very happy to have such a place for people on the road to rest. Prose is indispensable in life, because in the numbness of life, we have always longed for beauty.
Shout Spring Hike
In Kanas, this piece of God’s pure land on earth, there are actually beautiful scenery hidden everywhere, but many beautiful scenery require us to go deep into the mountains to find them. Of course, it doesn't mean going to the depths of the dense forest that is inaccessible. After all, safety issues must be considered. Following the traces of local herdsmen on horseback is also a way to quickly find the direction.
Take the shuttle bus from the transfer center, and after getting off the bus, hike among forests, grasslands, lakes and snow-capped mountains, like a dialogue with the soul. I like the crisp sound of running water, the click of my feet on the leaves, crossing the stream, and crossing the river staggeringly on the stones in the water.
Day 3: Classic Sanwan Morning
Find the sun in a place where there is no wind, and be a warm sun in a place where you are cold. In Sanwan, Kanas, Xinjiang, if you get up early, you can still see morning fog, but when the wind blows, the fog will dissipate. Only the flowers and plants on the roadside are covered with white frost, which proves that this is not a dream.
Moon Bay, Wolong Bay and Shenxian Bay are not to be missed when you come to Kanas. The most vivid, I think, should be Moon Bay, where the Kanas River forms a very curved and rhythmic bend, much like a crescent moon, hence the name Moon Bay. Moon Bay is 1326 meters above sea level. It is an extension of Wolong Bay and one of the most charming and representative landscapes in Kanas.
In addition to Moon Bay, the scenery of Shenxian Bay and Wolong Bay is also extremely beautiful.
Hemu Village
Leaving Kanas Village, take a car for about two hours, circling along the road in the beautiful mountains, the sky is so clear and high. Without feeling tired or boring, I bypassed the mountain and arrived at another more beautiful place, Hemu Village.
Hemu, located in the Altay region of Xinjiang, is said to be the private land of the gods, and it is also known as the first village in China. The buildings in Hemu Village are all small wooden houses made of logs. Hemu Village is the concentrated living place of Tuva people. It is the only remaining 3 Tuva villages (Hemu Village, Kanas Village and Baihaba Village). The farthest and largest village, with a total area of 3040 square kilometers.
Hemu is Tuva language, which means "fat oil". Legend has it that a long time ago, an old hunter came here from other places to hunt. He hunted a big bear. When he skinned the bear, he found that the fat on the back of the bear was four or five fingers thick. The onlookers were shocked. Shouted "Hemu! Hemu!" Thus, the place name of Hemu came into being. Therefore, in fact, Hemu used to be a pasture and a hunting ground, and early people also hunted here.
When you arrive at Hemu, you need to stay at least two days, because the most worthwhile places to visit here are Hemu Village, boarding the Harden Platform to watch the sunrise, and riding a horse to the beautiful peak. So stay at least 1 night.
Day 4: Watching the sunrise on Harden Platform, you must go once in your life.
We arrived at Hemu Village in the evening. With the help of our friends, we booked in. We were very lucky to book the Golden Lotus Hotel in the scenic area, not far from the village. Early the next morning, we were going to ride up the mountain and go to Harden Platform to watch the sunrise. Riding up the mountain before dawn, bumping in the dark, just to show you the morning of Hemu at sunrise.
The sunrise in Xinjiang is a bit late, and the sun won’t come out until after 8 o’clock in the morning. There are already many people waiting on the Harden platform, many of them are photography enthusiasts, and of course there are middle-aged uncles and An old man sitting on a rock on a hillside holding a thermos cup. It was very cold on the top of the mountain. I only wore a single shirt during the day, but I didn’t feel hot when I put on a down jacket. After standing for a long time, my feet still felt cold, and I began to regret that I didn’t wear two pairs of socks.
The mobile phone took a time-lapse, and the camera was raised and ready. The sun in the east came as promised, gradually emitting a pale golden light from behind the mountain peak. At this time, the villages in the valley began to be seen clearly, and there were a few mist floating in the small wooden houses. As the morning light came out, it sprinkled gold on the mountain, into the valley, and in the birch forest, and painted our hearts with a layer of gold.
Just magic, the gold on the mountain is layered, and the water of the small river and the cattle and sheep drinking by the river seem to be clearly visible. The herdsmen should start making breakfast, and the smoke from the chimneys is thick and straight. The people around him stopped talking at this time, and heard the continuous click of the shutter, yes, autumn is the most beautiful season for Hemu. When you come to Hemu, you must board the Harden Platform to watch the sunrise.
Going down to Harden Platform is Hemu Village. This is a beautiful and well-preserved village. There is a long bridge beside the clear river. Many people's memories of Hemu probably start from this bridge.
A friend said that he had visited Hemu 20 years ago, and there was this bridge at that time, and there were only a few cabins in the mountains at that time. The current Hemu Village is a must-stop for tourists and businessmen. There are shops, restaurants, and transportation for riding up the mountain.
In fact, when I visited Hemu Village, I rode a horse down the mountain after watching the sunrise on the Harden platform. I endured the cold all morning. I saw the smoke and heat in the village from a distance, and I couldn’t help but run towards the warmth within reach. .
Walking into the village, there are many shops on both sides of the road, but they are not overly commercialized, nor are they similar to small commodities and souvenirs like other scenic spots.
There are uncles who sell beef bone combs, and aunts who buy homemade yogurt. My aunt greeted me to buy fruit and yogurt, and praised the pretty hat I was wearing. I bought a handful of dates and some small sweet and sour apples. The price is not cheap, but I am very happy to think that there are all kinds of fresh fruits in this mountain village. Of course, you can also buy some dried dates and raisins. There are almost no bad raisins in Xinjiang, and any kind is delicious.
Day 4: Horseback Riding on Beautiful Peak
We plan to ride horses to Meilifeng in one afternoon. It takes one and a half hours to ride from Hemu Village to Meilifeng, but this secret place hidden deep in Hemu is so beautiful.
Meilifeng is a typical landscape of the trinity of alpine forest and grassland. It is located at the mountain pass of the mountain barrier in the south of Hemu Village, beside the Hemu River, like an open gate. So when the Russians came to Hemu, they took this mountain It is compared to the south gate of Hemu Village. The Tuva people feel that this mountain rises from the background of the mountains and is impressively independent, so they call it "Boshdale", which means an independent mountain. Kazakhs think this mountain is a beautiful mountain, full of changes. Therefore, the Kazakhs regard this mountain as a beautiful woman who loves to dress up, change clothes, and have a variety of styles, so they named it Suluqiaohu, which means a beautiful mountain.
The name of Meilifeng really lives up to the word “beautiful”. Riding a horse into the mountain, at first I needed a groom to take me to ride the horse. Then I became bolder and only needed him to hold the rein for me on another horse. At last, I was able to ride the horse by myself, holding the rein. Bumping and ups and downs on the horseback, they told me to follow the rhythm of the bumps so as not to make my back hurt and my butt hurt.
The scenery on the way to Meimeifeng is unique. The undulating hillsides are covered with golden birch forests. In the valleys are vast pastures. Men on horseback are galloping on horseback, and cows are gnawing on the grass in a leisurely manner. There are a few small wooden houses scattered here, and herdsmen are making milk tea, and the smoke from cooking is rising, drifting to the distant birch forest.
I heard that the children here are 5 years old. This is actually an age that cannot climb a horse. They can climb on the horseback by stepping on the horse stool, and then they can gallop on horseback. In Kanas, riding horses and shepherding sheep are all things that go with the flow. This is a gift from nature, and other people are not envious of it, but when we walk in here, we will let our hearts graze here and run here. Feeling good is also a very simple thing.
There are several small wooden houses on the grassland deep in the mountains, and these are the only small wooden houses. This is our destination. The herdsmen use a big thermos to pour out the boiled milk tea. They must use a small sieve to pour the hot milk tea into the white porcelain bowl through the small sieve to filter out the tea dregs. After drinking hot milk tea and some snacks dipped in honey, I feel that there is nothing more delicious than this in the world.
When I return to the hotel at night and have dinner, I will go to the bonfire party. Don't be idle while you are young. The bonfire party in Hemu can be said to be a gathering place of traditional and pure Tuva culture. Local professional song and dance performers light the bonfire on time every night in the Hemu Starry Sky Camp and bring special song and dance performances. Matouqin is melodious, dancing around the bonfire, how can there be sadness in such a night?
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Day 4: From Hemu to Burqin, watch performances and eat grilled fish
When we returned to Burqin from Hemu Village, we took a car for about 4 hours. Burqin County belongs to the Altay region of Xinjiang.
After getting off the bus, we went to Jinshan Academy in Burqin. The founder of Jinshan Academy was Kang Jian, a writer who came out of Kanas. His work "Kanas Lake: Nature Notes of a Mountain Watcher" contains his documentary prose collection describing the natural scenery and cultural customs of Kanas. Similarly, Li Juan, who I like very much, is also a writer who came out of Altay. I have read her books such as "The Corner of Altay" and "Winter Pasture". The language written by the writers who grew up in Kanas is different from other places. This is not taught, but a gift from Altay to the residents.
Jinshan Academy is adjacent to Burqin Night Market, which is the best choice for Burqin to eat food. The former night market has now become a characteristic neighborhood with rich exotic culture. There are high-quality and cheap authentic food. Tourists who come to Burqin will come here admiringly. The cold-water fish, Russian old lady Gina's "kvass" and yogurt are the mainstays. Three major features
At the same time, grilled fish in Burqin Night Market is a must. One of the most representative delicacies in Burqin is grilled fish. It can be said that if you don’t eat grilled fish, you have not come to Burqin. This one is very easy to find at the entrance of the night market. Its specialty is grilled fish, which is very big. It is said to be pike, which is delicious! There are also barbecue, squid, peppers and so on. In fact, I recommend baked naan the most, haha. Kebabs and ribs are also standard in Xinjiang cuisine. The overall environment is good and the boss is also enthusiastic. It's good to eat barbecue after shopping in Jinshan Academy next to it.
The most representative performance in Kanas - "Kanas Grand Ceremony"
After dinner, we walked to the National Culture Exhibition Center, which is located on the beautiful Irtysh River and covers an area of 21,000 square meters, to watch the musical and dance drama "Kanas Grand Ceremony". This performance uses the original form of local folk songs and dances to interpret the regional cultural phenomenon of Kanas in a new way. Taking the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter as the main line, from the spring breeze to the harvest in autumn, the passionate singing and dancing by girls and boys shows the long-standing and glorious grassland civilization of the local people. It has become a representative cultural performance in the Altay region. When you come to Kanas, if you want to watch a performance, you must watch this "Kanas Ceremony".
【end】
The itinerary is coming to an end, the fifth day from Burqin to Altay Airport.
I look forward to going to Kanas again next time. I have carefully summarized the most practical and accurate information on transportation, tickets, etc. for everyone. I hope it will be helpful for your trip to Kanas.
【Practical information】
Transportation to Kanas:
1. From Urumqi to Kanas:
1.) Common method: train sleeper, about 185 yuan
2.) Fast way to get there: Airplane
Urumqi-Kanas Airport (open to traffic from May to October), it takes about 1.5 hours to reach Kanas Jiadengyu, and Urumqi-Altay Airport (open to navigation all year round), it takes about 2 hours to reach Kanas Jiadengyu.
1. Kanas, Hemu, Baihaba Scenic Area Tickets and Interval Ticket Prices
Kanas Scenic Area
1. One-entry ticket + round-trip shuttle bus:
220 yuan (ticket 160 + interval 60 yuan)
2. Two-entry ticket + round-trip shuttle bus
270 yuan (160 yuan for tickets + 110 yuan for the second entry interval)
2. Hemu Scenic Area
1. Tickets: 50 yuan
2. Shuttle between Hemu Ticketing Station and Hemu Village
Full price: 52 yuan (45 yuan from Hemu ticket station to Hemu village service area + 7 yuan from Hemu village service area around Hemu village)
3. Baihaba Scenic Area (purchased by Kanas Scenic Area Transfer Center)
1. Scenic spot tickets: 30 yuan
2. Kanas Transfer Center-Baihaba Village/Tiereketi Ticket Station-Baihaba Village Round-trip Bus: 45 yuan
4. Kanas, Hemu, Baihabawang season pass + Kanas one-entry round-trip shuttle bus
1. One-entry ticket + shuttle bus: 255 yuan (ticket pass 195 yuan + Kanas--entry shuttle bus 60 yuan)
2. Second-entry ticket pass + interval bus: 305 yuan (ticket pass 195 yuan + Kanas two-entry round-trip interval 110 yuan)
Note: Before entering the Baihaba Scenic Area, you must apply for a border pass at the border police station of the Kanas Transfer Center!
The difference between one entry and two entry:
Once in: Enter the scenic spot once, and take the shuttle bus once
Second entry: enter the scenic spot twice, take the shuttle bus twice
Scenic area bus, tour and other project schedule:
Shuttle bus from Kanas Scenic Area Transfer Center to Baihaba Scenic Area: stop at 6:00 p.m.
Transfer Center to Guanyutai: Check the weather and road conditions inside the scenic spot.
Shuanghu cruise (only in the season after the ice on the lake melts): from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., depending on the season, the time of day and night varies.
Shouting Spring: There is no ticket, it is recommended to hike in the morning, and it is not recommended to hike after 6 pm.
