By accident, I discovered the mystery and magnificence of Mount Fanjing, which made me feel ashamed when I was wandering in Guizhou. In the excitement and excitement, I was waiting for the fate with Fanjing Mountain. Fenghuang is so close to Fanjing Mountain. Although I have been there many times, I finally missed it because of the route and time.
One year, I suddenly heard Sun Yue's new song "Green Mountains on the Clouds", which made me fall in love with Fanjing Mountain even more. The Sanskrit-like melody, the guqin-like detachment and spiritual space, pushed Fanjing Mountain to a more immortal state. holy place. I also admire Sun Yue because of it. I never tire of listening to this song. I climbed Fanjing Mountain that day, and it accompanied me all the way. I want to go to Mount Fanjing more and more, although it is so far away, although I am not ready yet.
On the eve of Mid-Autumn Festival in 2012, I had a maze-like dream that seemed to imply my whole life, which affected my emotions a lot. In this way, I, who planned to accompany my parents during the holiday, suddenly changed my mind and decided to travel. After visiting Hengshan to pay homage to the Martyrs’ Shrine, Fanjingshan appeared in front of my eyes, beckoning me like a god, and returned to Hengshan Railway Station to buy a train ticket to Tongren. K200 times, depart at 21:33, and arrive at Tongren the next morning.
Sitting on the small bus from Tongren to Mount Fanjing, the mountains and rivers of Guizhou in my memory have changed beyond recognition, and this place is also earth-shaking. The green mountains are digging highways, like the knife marks left by a girl’s caesarean section, and those warm woods in the past The house has been replaced by modern buildings, and the peace and serenity that once existed has disappeared. My heart was filled with loss and longing, and I kept looking out of the car window with my eyes wide open. It has been almost 30 years since I returned to Guizhou. What I want to look for must be my youth or even the hesitation and will of that year. After crossing the river estuary, the car entered the alternate area of mountain roads and riversides. Plantains and bamboos appeared, as well as wooden houses with Guizhou characteristics. The house is a bit dilapidated but has a lot of history. When I saw the wooden house, I wanted to shout out excitedly. Along the way, I blamed the disorderly changes. Hyundai has made the entire land of China very similar, and the driver also echoed me. In fact, this is the trend. What can we do?
The car meanders along the Heiwan River. The green water of the Heiwan River nourishes my tired heart and also nourishes my hope for Fanjing Mountain. Fanjing Mountain is getting closer and closer. My heart also gradually tends to Fanjing Mountain. The parking lot is very messy, the foot of Fanjing Mountain is under construction, the Heiwan River flows around the gate of the mountain, and the unique yellow pebbles of the mountain are all over the shore. A few backpackers have already got off the bus on the way, and I inquired that the room she booked was not cheap. I got off the bus with a few local tourists. They wanted to go up the mountain on the same day and down the mountain on the same day. If they went up and down the cable car, they could finish the tour in half a day. There were also two old people from Shanghai who brought bicycles and camera bags. It has been two months since I came out, and I came from Phoenix for riding and playing all the way. The photography gear is heavier than my hiking bag. I like quietness, so we said goodbye when we were looking for accommodation. I plan to go up the mountain in the morning the next day, and have a good rest in the afternoon. Facing the gate of Fanjing Mountain, I stayed for a long time, which is far from the Fanjing Mountain I know about in articles and pictures. Fanjingshan, I am finally in front of your door, I am here, in the Mid-Autumn Festival, on this day of family reunion, I am used to being on the road.
On the right side of the mountain gate are shops and small hotels. Since the next day is the Mid-Autumn Festival, there are not many tourists on that day, and the price is not expensive. Everyone asks for 80 yuan for a standard room, and I chose a turning couple shop for 70 yuan. When I was having dinner, two women were already eating. It turned out that they had already descended from the mountain and were going to Fenghuang. They knew that I had just climbed Mount Heng and suggested that I not go up the mountain on foot, because Mount Fanjing was really too high. There are 9,000 steps and an altitude of 2,500 meters. So I decided to go up the mountain by cable car and walk down the mountain. I was unwilling to walk Fanjing Mountain myself. I ordered Guizhou braised pork, green vegetables and local wild brook fish. The wild brook fish is very expensive, 45 yuan a plate, but the fish is very delicious.
I woke up from a dream in the middle of the night, and it turned out that the moon had risen greatly in front of the back window, like a god-man watching me silently. The black back of Fanjing Mountain made my heart surge and I couldn't calm down. I got up and took pictures of the moon for a long time. I knew it was Mid-Autumn Festival. The moon was speechless and I was even more speechless. The communication between me and the moon made my face full of tears, just like that cold night on the top of Mount Tai. Afterwards it was hard to sleep, I seemed to be staying up until dawn. During the trip, I like to take pictures of the moon, round or not, curved, hanging on trees, above temples, during the day and at night. When I look at it, it is a sacred place in my heart. When I think about it, it's a scar on my soul.
I went to the ticket office of Mount Fanjing after six o’clock. I was the first to buy a ticket. A Guangzhou couple wanted me to hike up the mountain with them, but I politely declined on the grounds that I had climbed Hengshan. In fact, I really wanted to hike. , The regret of not walking has grown in my heart.
Entering the entrance of the scenic spot, which is resplendent and pure yellow like an archway, the young service staff are full of smiles and are very enthusiastic. They are all beautiful and handsome. This is the most enthusiastic service staff I have ever seen in the scenic spot. They remind me that there are poisonous animals on the mountain, especially Snakes are still coming and going, so don't go outside the trail.
Take the scenic bus for a section of the road first, the mountain road winds along the stream and river, the car climbs higher and higher, the mountains seem to be at the foot, the cable car is at the next station, and there are not many tourists. When I got on the cable car, this is the shortest distance I have ever taken. The long cable car is 3,500 meters long, with a height difference of 1,200 meters. Under the car is a dense forest. At the beginning, you can see tall trees, and then shrubs. The sky is blue and blue. When we arrived at the second valley, we looked down from the cable car to the deep valley and saw the golden monkey jumping on the top of the tree. The golden monkey with bright hair was moving in the jungle. Everyone was ecstatic. The car was moving and the monkey was moving. It was too late to take pictures. The tops of the trees are shaking, the monkeys have long since disappeared, the cable car is getting higher and higher, the mountains are moving under the feet, the open space, the outline of the mountains is faint, the sun is shadowed by the distant mountains, and the scenery is pleasant.
After the cable car passed the second hill, I suddenly saw the golden dome with a pillar supporting the sky, which became more and more towering on the window of the cable car. The excitement was incomparable.
The staff at the cable car told me to climb the Mushroom Rock first and then climb the Golden Summit, that is, climb the old Golden Summit first and then the new Golden Summit, so that you can avoid repeating the road. The upper station of the cable car is surrounded by shrubs, which are said to be alpine rhododendrons. It's a pity that it is not the flowering season, otherwise the sky will be full of clouds. I went to the right and entered a wooden walking path. This is the most perfect walking path I have ever seen in China. It is all wooden structures, erected in the air, and a certain distance from the ground. The entire wooden path does not destroy any plants or trees. The walking path is two meters wide. Left and right, walking through the bushes, I once read an article introducing the trails in the Australian desert, and it was the same. When I read the article, I admired the local advanced environmental protection and awe-inspiring awareness of nature. Now I have seen such trails in Fanjing Mountain.
You can see the old Jinding on the trail, which is very tempting. It is mysterious and spectacular under the blue sky, and the small temple on the top of the mountain is faintly visible. On the promenade, looking back at the place where the cable car goes up, the distant mountains are like ink paintings with distinct layers, and the feeling of climbing high and looking far away has arisen spontaneously. After walking a long trail, the stones on the hillside are abrupt and flaky, like pages of ancient books. The stones in Guizhou are very strange. I have seen walls and tiles built with such stones, and houses in the whole village. These are all such stone houses, and now there are such blue stones everywhere on the hillside. Such stones belong to shale, schist, and phyllite. Carefully observe the layers of shale as thin as paper, blue-gray, smooth surface, and layers of shale. Clear, the more I look at it, the more I like it. Climbing along the path to the Mushroom Rock not far away, the mountain road is getting more and more dangerous, and the scenery is getting better and better. Accidentally touches the golden top of Fanjing Mountain, and the scriptures are scattered all over the place. Who dares to snatch the heavenly books? They have been turned into stone books for many years. Walking through the gaps between the books, the wild bamboos under the books embrace each other. Go and read a few pages, but it is a heavenly book, how can I understand it. It is said that these books are the heavenly books that the Jade Emperor often read when he woke up in the morning. No wonder they are placed on the top of Fanjing Mountain.
Wandering around, I suddenly saw two sides of ten-meter-high boulders volleying in the sky and standing on the edge of the cliff. The top is big and the bottom is small, the side is like a knife, and the shape is like an ancient book. Surprisingly, people call it Mushroom Stone. The Mushroom Stone in the morning is backed by the blue sky, and the new Golden Dome in the distance looks small. There are Fantianyin, Jiuhuangdong, Guoguo Ancient Temple and other scenic spots here. The trail is steep, but there are iron cables in dangerous places. When I went up to the old golden summit, I met a group of college students who were going down the mountain. When I arrived at the golden summit, I was the only one. Talking to myself for a long time, recording and taking pictures, I rarely take pictures of myself, but I took three pictures of myself in the old Jinding, and took a few pictures with my mobile phone, which shows that I am happy and excited!
My dream Fanjing Mountain, I finally came. The wind on the top of the mountain is very cold, and a staff member also climbed up, often reminding me to pay attention to safety. There is a viewing platform on the old Jinding, and next to it is a small temple called the Lantern Temple. Standing on the old Jinding, the sun has already climbed the hillside and shined on the valley towards the Yinjiang River. A person who likes to climb climbs to the top of the mountain and looks around. The feeling is as beautiful as it is. On the top of the mountain, there is only one tourist, condescending, nervous and comfortable. After playing enough, I went down the mountain and continued to the new Jinding.
The old and new golden roofs echo each other. The new golden roof is next to the south west corner of the Temple of Heavenly Kings in Cheng'en Temple. Looking up from the feet, it looks like a black thumb. It can be said that straight into the sky, there are staff on the road reminding, facing the Golden Summit, climbing alone, I am still very nervous, but since I am here, I am already in front of the Golden Summit, it is impossible not to climb, it will be lifelong It is a pity that many people gave up climbing in the face of such a steep Golden Summit. It is also shocking to appreciate below. The golden dome is like the head of a mighty lion living on the cliff. The rocks that tourists climb up are like the head and neck of a lion. The stone is built, and the hands and feet are used together, so that the heart is at ease. People walk on it, almost suspended in the air, as if they are facing an abyss, and they are worried that they will be crushed if they step on the air. The dangerous road is in the northwest of Jinding, soaring into the sky, almost boulders pressing down on the top, so you don’t even dare to breathe too hard. When I climbed, I saw a strong man coming later, so my heart seemed to be emboldened, and it was the first time I felt alone. Wuyi, the strong man said that he saw how brave I was, so he bravely came to climb. They turned out to be a group of people. Seeing how dangerous the Golden Summit is, no one dared to climb. The strong man wanted to climb but he gave up without a partner. Climbing, everyone hanging out at the temple.
Although the cliffs are dangerous and the road is narrow, there are ancient temples and cliffs on the cliffs. The piety of the ancients is admirable. There are "Taoist Temples" in the Ming Dynasty and "Tianqiao Gongde Monuments" in the Qing Dynasty. On the road, there are Lingguan Hall, Longtou Stone, Guanyin Cave, Going up is Jindao Gorge, a line of sky, and climbing is relatively safe.
I was in front and the man was behind. Of course, I reminded him along the way that my man was almost on top of his head on the way up. There are scattered steps for tourists to step on. The steps are black, smooth and shiny. There are cliffs on three sides and a volley in the air on one side. When you are in it, you suddenly feel that life is short. My heart suddenly became enlightened.
Halfway from the top, there is a one-meter-square shale platform. The left and right sides are like facing an abyss, and the distracting thoughts in my mind have long been thrown away. I tried my best to climb up. After thinking about it, I was very scared. It was much more dangerous than Huashan. At 9 o'clock, I finally climbed to the Golden Dome. The Golden Dome is 94 meters high and 30 meters in diameter. There is a Feixian Bridge built in the sky. It is not easy to build a temple on a stone top. The ancients must rely on their beliefs and beliefs in their hearts, and they must be persistent and persistent. Imagine all the bricks and tiles from the back of the mountain to the top of the mountain, and then carefully carry the 80 meters from the top of the mountain. The high stone roof, even the water mixed with lime is as expensive as oil. Only a pious and successful heart can complete such a masterpiece. I am amazed at the pure belief of the ancients, and I feel guilty for my own inaction. Although the new golden roof is better than the old gold The top is a bit shorter, but because it is a huge rock that rises from the top of the mountain, standing on the top, the three halls are all in sight. The Lantern Buddha represents the past, Sakyamuni Buddha represents the present, and Maitreya Buddha represents the future. Mount Fanjing is the place where Maitreya Buddha resides, and it is also the most hopeful place.
Fanjing Mountain in the early morning, overlooking the wind from the golden summit, the sun has already covered the rolling mountains, forgetting both things and me, between heaven and earth, magical, mighty, ingenious, worthy of being the ancestor of the Five Sacred Mountains.
Visiting it in person, fulfilling my long-cherished wish for many years, I finally stood on the top of Fanjing Mountain, witnessed its true face, felt its fairy spirit, and admired its majesty, although I didn't have time to wait for the red clouds to circle the top.
Coming down from the Golden Summit is the repaired plank road, although it is steep, it is easier to walk. After getting off the Golden Summit, I arrived at Cheng'en Temple. The temple was still under construction. Because I had to walk down the mountain, I didn't stay for a long time. When I walked to Jingxin Pool, there was a wooden sign in Jingxin Pool, which was written in Sanskrit, which was very interesting: People who recite the Buddha's name must have a pure mind, and they must purify their minds when they recite the Buddha and purify their minds and listens; the mind is the Buddha, and the Buddha is the mind. Since ancient times, people who have worshiped Buddha on the mountain have come here to drink springs and wash their faces to get rid of distracting thoughts in order to show their devotion and purity of heart. Seeing this, I hurriedly drank the spring and washed my face. It was a sin. I have already been on the golden dome of a Buddhist temple, so washing my face is to cleanse my soul. Is my devout heart more sincere than anyone else? ! Because when I first arrived at Mushroom Stone, I was so anxious that I couldn’t control it, and there was no toilet there, so I prayed three times in my heart, hoping that the three Buddhas would bless me and let me come down from the old golden summit to look for it. I forgot all about it. Later, on the way to Xinjinding, my stomach suddenly resisted. The Buddha appeared again to remind me, so I ran all the way to find the toilet. Although late, but I did not intend to climb Fanjingshan is sincere.
It took more than 8,000 steps to reach the foot of Fanjing Mountain. The staff knew that I was going down the mountain on foot and reminded me again and again to be careful. Don’t go outside the trail. Snakes have not yet hibernated, and poisonous animals are still alive There are a lot of them, but you have to watch carefully when you urinate. The roadside is lush with vegetation, and it is also a virgin forest. The trail on Mount Fanjing is like a wild mountain road, with thick leaves on the road. Just in case, I can’t take it lightly. I put away my MP3, put my camera in my hiking bag, and I don’t wear sunglasses. The purpose is to go down the mountain. At that time, my eyes were wide open, my ears were pricked up, and I used trekking poles for the first time to prevent animals from attacking me. When I first went down the mountain, it was 10:30 in the morning. I didn’t meet any tourists going up the mountain or going down the mountain for half an hour. I only took some pictures with my mobile phone. The virgin forest, towering trees, and trees covered with moss really made me feel relaxed and happy. Unlimited satisfaction. I met the Guangzhou couple in half an hour. I admired them so much. I encouraged them to come soon. They reminded me that they really met a snake. I could see that his wife was still panicking when he thought of the snake. They reminded me that they must Be careful, after we say goodbye, I will be more careful, I will slow down when I encounter a place with thick dead leaves, and avoid it after careful observation. Use it as a stick to drive snakes away. It was already 11:15 when I walked back to Xiangping Guest House on Fanjing Mountain (4500 steps here), and I asked for their phone number. People who go up the mountain can stay here. The guest house is simple, but it can accommodate many people and the price is not expensive. When I came down from the guest house, I met a small shop. There were more and more climbers, and my left foot started to hurt. My left foot has never been very good. It hurts occasionally. I know that walking down the stairs is the most harmful. Yes, but I’m unwilling not to go to Fanjing Mountain. In addition, I just climbed Hengshan Mountain in the first two days. When I walked the last thousand steps, my feet were already very painful. Fortunately, I brought trekking poles. I already felt that I was walking farther and farther. I have been waiting to get to the foot of the mountain earlier, but there are more and more people going up the mountain along the way. They still have children on their backs and wear high heels. It is estimated that there are many local people in Guizhou, and climbing the mountain seems to take no effort.
I know that my feet hurt when I go down the mountain, but not when I go up the mountain. My feet also hurt when I go down the mountain of Huashan Mountain. After climbing Wudang Mountain for a day, I have no pain in my feet. This must be paid attention to in the future. After all, I am alone. .
It was 13:30 in the afternoon when I reached step 0, and I finally reached the foot of the mountain. The joy of completing a great cause is indescribable. Although it took me three hours to walk more than 8,000 steps, after all, I completed a hike with the highest altitude, walking in the arms of Mount Fanjing, and I seem to have a lot to say. But I think it’s better to save it for the next time. I believe that Fanjing Mountain will go again. The next time I go, I want to see the Rhododendrons all over the mountain, the falling flowers flying all over the sky, the clouds flying all over the sky, and the See the flowers pouring across the hillside to the valley, and watch the red waves flutter and dance in the sea of clouds. (over)
