Preface: Hunyuan, a thousand years is like a dream

In Hunyuan Ancient County, Shanxi Province, thousands of years of vicissitudes have left too much precious wealth in this magical land. Hengshan, the northern mountain, stands with magnificent peaks; Hanging Temple, the plank road is flying, and the corridor is back. No matter when you come, this ancient city of the Northern Wei Dynasty will always make your eyes shine.

In addition to the well-known famous scenic spots, the secret Hunyuan also has a paradise hidden in the mountains. Lianhua Mountain is hidden among the clouds and mist, like a graceful girl; Qianfo Ridge is covered with exotic flowers and plants on the cliffs of the peak, which is a unique fairyland on earth.

It has a long history, a beautiful Zhongling, and many historical and cultural relics. The Yongan Temple and Yuanjue Temple built in the Jin Dynasty are magical and magnificent in architectural art, and the Sanskrit sounds and Zen rhyme are endless, making this land full of a strong Buddhist atmosphere.

The ancient city of Hunyuan has long streets and alleys, deep courtyards, and the state government has a well-organized layout and exquisite structure. Hunyuan with outstanding people has been born in large numbers since ancient times. During the walk, you can see the ups and downs of five thousand years of wind and rain, and read the strength of Chinese civilization.

There are endless humanistic stories, endless dusty history, and beautiful scenery with watery and empty colors. The grassland in the air of Buckwheat River is full of green grass, and the grass is moving in the wind; the water in Shenxi Wetland is shimmering and blue waves are rippling. The millennium seems like a dream, and the history is vivid. Walk into it, understand it, and you will find the beauty of Hunyuan everywhere!

One: Yongan Temple

Among the many temples in Shanxi, Hunyuan Yong'an Temple is not well-known, but it has famous buildings, large characters, murals, statues, "four wonders", the legendary "past life", and the magical "present life", which made me a fan of murals. Looking forward to this trip.

When I came to Hunyuan before, I only went to Mount Hengshan and Xuankong Temple. This time I can finally make up for my regrets, so I put on my carefully prepared Ming Dynasty Hanfu. Yong'an Temple was first built in the Jin Dynasty and was later destroyed by fire. In the early years of the Yuan Dynasty, Gao Ding, the envoy of the Yongan Army, returned to his hometown and converted to Buddhism. He wished to show compassion and save the souls of the dead, so he invited Zen Master Guiyun to preside over the reconstruction. Therefore, the temple is named "Yong'an Temple".

After 40 years of ups and downs, the construction of the temple continued until the generation of Gao Ding's grandson was basically completed. In the second year of Yuan Yanyou, Gao Ding's Sun Gaopu donated money to build the "Authentic Hall of Chuanfa" in the temple. Therefore, the existing building of Yong'an Temple is the relic of the Yuan Dynasty, and the rest were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

The authentic hall of Chuanfa adopts the traditional Chinese architectural technique of combining wooden bones and fighting chess. It is five rooms wide and three rooms deep. Two big characters.

Yong'an Temple is a large-scale "Water and Land Dharma Assembly" established to transcend the three realms of heaven and earth, ten directions and all spirits. Its religious culture integrates Tibetan Buddhism, Chinese Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and even Shamanism and Nestorianism in Yuan Dynasty Mahayana Buddhism. .

For ancient murals, I have seen many places. However, the murals of the authentic hall of teaching the Dharma in Yong'an Temple still give people an extraordinary and shocking feeling. Due to historical reasons, there are no statues in the huge hall, and it seems to exist only for the thick and colorful murals on the four walls and between the eyes of the brackets.

The area of ​​murals in the main hall is 186.912 square meters. The murals depict grand scenes and neat and exquisite paintings. It is one of the few extant murals of Shuilu Temple in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties in my country, and has extremely high cultural relics research and protection value.

The ten Ming kings are painted on the back wall, tall in size, strange in shape, and strong and smooth in lines. It is said that in order to make the world wake up and become obsessed, King Ming often appears with a hideous face, like a stick, to make people know how to go astray. However, the artistic image of Fudo Zunming in the authentic hall of Chuanfa is different from the above-mentioned ones, and it is a masterpiece of murals in Yong'an Temple.

Two: Yuanjue Temple Pagoda

To the west of Yong'an Temple is the Yuanjue Temple Pagoda, which is the only existing pagoda with dense eaves in the Datong area. It has been standing here unmoved for more than 800 years. Silent world.

Staying here for a while, sitting quietly on the promenade, avoiding the hustle and bustle of the city, and spending time alone with the tower also allowed me to appreciate its beauty more carefully.

The whole tower is nine stories high, with dense eaves and flying arches, and the whole body is built of bricks. It is octagonal and is a full imitation wood structure building. Due to the exquisite materials and reasonable construction, the tower body is still intact despite the ups and downs of more than 800 years.

Walking in and taking a closer look, the base of the pagoda is surrounded by brick reliefs, including 40 figures of dancing and music, some dancing with long sleeves, some dancing with long ropes, some holding a pipa in their hands, some holding a pipa and playing the Qiang flute. Some clapping boards have different postures, which are lifelike and moving.

Swallows circle the tower, and weeds are luxuriant. Looking up, you can see that wind chimes are hung on the eaves of each floor of the tower. When the wind moves, the bells ring, like a symphony. The phoenix on the top of the tower can also rotate with the wind, and it has been spinning endlessly for thousands of years, which has to be praised.

Three: Tomb of Li Yumei

Hunyuan has outstanding people and talented people since ancient times. According to the "Historical History of Hunyuan County" and "History of Hunyuan Prefecture" in previous dynasties, only before the Qing Dynasty, outstanding historical figures born in Hunyuan, outstanding foreign historical figures who worked in Hunyuan, and outstanding historical figures who once lived in Hunyuan There are more than one hundred characters.

Li Yumei is a native of Hunyuan. In the seventh year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty, she was awarded the county magistrate by Bagong.

During his tenure, he invented the "throwing bricks to build dams", which became the most advanced river control technology at that time and was widely promoted. In the 20th year of Daoguang, Li Yumei became ill from overwork and died in office. Emperor Daoguang issued an imperial edict, made sacrificial rites, and built a mausoleum for him in Hunyuan. Lin Zexu wrote the epitaph for Li Yumei.

Today, when entering Li Yumei's tomb, there is not only a white marble archway, but also five groups of ten stone statues symmetrically arranged on both sides of the tomb passage, including sheep, tigers, horses, generals, and civil servants. They are tall, majestic and majestic.

Four: Lotus Mountain

Lianhua Mountain is located 40 kilometers south of Hunyuan City. There are towering peaks, gurgling streams, singing birds and fragrant flowers, and luxuriant old trees along the way.

Different from the surrounding mountains, Lianhua Mountain is a granite landform, named for its resemblance to a lotus flower. It was not a coincidence that we came here. It happened to be raining, and Lianhua Mountain was hidden among the clouds and mists, which added a sense of mystery.

Since you can't continue to go up, it's better to enjoy the moment. The picturesque pastoral scenery at the foot of the mountain reminded me of the poem written by Tao Yuanming: picking chrysanthemums under the eastern fence, and seeing Nanshan leisurely. Isn't this another Taoyuan?

Five: Thousand Buddha Ridge

Thousand Buddha Ridge is the biggest surprise of this trip. Our car drove through the winding mountain road and came to the Qianfoling scenic spot known as "Little Yellow Mountain outside the Great Wall". Qianfo Ridge is a bright pearl among the 108 peaks of Hengshan Mountain, facing Hengzong Peak far away.

Here, delicate and colorful isolated peaks are arranged neatly, clumps of green pines and cypresses spread all over the valley, and patches of exotic flowers and grasses cover the cliffs of the peaks, which can be described as a unique fairyland on earth.

On cloudy and rainy days, the clouds are drifting between the peaks, and the fog surrounds Qianling, which is a beautiful scene. Looking around, the southern peak of Qianfoling resembles the Huashan cactus, and the rolling Jiguanyan is also like Zhurong Peak of Hengshan; the sharp stone beams in the west are like the Jade Emperor Peak of Mount Tai; Flickering in the clouds.

The existing Thousand Buddha Pagoda in Qianfo Ridge was built in the Ming Dynasty. It is located on the huge rock on the top of the mountain. There are three caves under the pagoda called Thousand Buddha Caves. There are more than a thousand Buddha statues carved on the cliff. It is worth seeing.

Six: Hanging Temple

Xuankong Temple is located between the cliffs of Cuiping Peak on the west side of Jinlong Gorge, Hengshan Mountain, Hunyuan County. There is a local slang saying "Xuankong Temple, half a sky high, with three horsetails hanging in the air", and it is famous for its steepness like facing an abyss.

Because it is surrounded by mountains, the temples in the canyon can hardly see the sun all year round. According to the tour guide, even in the longest sunshine season, there is only two hours of light.

As the "first scenic spot" among the eighteen scenic spots of Hengshan, the Xuankong Temple was built in 491 AD. It is the only unique temple in China that combines Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. It is located in a deep and secluded valley, inlaid on the cliff, with high hanging floors, reclining pavilions, flying plank roads, and unfinished corridors, which can only accommodate one person carefully passing through.

The temple can be climbed. Walking on the rather narrow stairs with three or five companions, you have to go one by one. The temple in front of you is like hanging on the cliff. It is hard to imagine how the ancients built it at that time. It is really impressive. Unbelievable.

The whole temple seems to be supported by only a dozen wooden pillars about the thickness of the mouth of a bowl. The highest point is about 50 meters above the ground. The ring corridors on three sides embrace each other, the six halls and pavilions intersect with each other, and the plank roads fly over each other, each connected, and the heights are scattered.

From ancient times to the present, countless literati and inkmen have praised the Xuankong Temple. Deng Keshao, a poet in the Qing Dynasty, once wrote in a poem chanting the Xuankong Temple: The stone screen stands thousands of feet high, and the ancient temple hangs in the air. The pure land is beyond the dust, and the Cen tower is far away from the sky. The moon by the rocks of a bay, Zen in half murals. Looking down at the pedestrians, I feel like I am floating in the air. Standing in the Xuankong Temple overlooking the Jinlong Canyon, reciting the ancients' good lines, the Xuankong Temple feels even more spectacular!

Seven: Beiyue Hengshan

Hengshan is the northern one of the "Five Sacred Mountains", and it is also a holy place for Taoism. According to legend, Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, practiced Taoism on Hengshan Mountain. Celebrities and scholars of all dynasties, such as Li Bai, Jia Dao, Yuan Haowen, Xu Xiake, etc., have also visited Hengshan scenic spot and left poems chanting Hengshan.

On the day we came, the weather was fine. There are several ways to climb Mount Hengshan. One is to take a shuttle bus to the middle of the mountain and then go up. Seeing the magnificent mountain scenery is relatively time-saving.

Hengshan stretches 150 kilometers from east to west, across Shanxi and Hebei provinces. It holds Yanmen Pass in the west, Taihang Mountain in the east, barriers to the three Jins in the south, overlooks the clouds and Dai Erzhou in the north, is vast and vast, stretches across the frontier, towering and majestic.

To visit Mount Heng is mainly to visit Tianfengling Scenic Area. There are many scenic spots such as Hengshan Temple Group, Hengshan Cableway, Yuemen Bay, etc. Most of the famous 18 scenic spots of Hengshan are located here. You can watch them while walking, take a rest when you are tired, and climb the mountain much easier.

Hengshan Temple, headed by Beiyue Temple, sits firmly on the West Peak, hidden or exposed among the pines. If you have enough time, you can visit here for a whole day, and feel the spectacular sight of the mountains after climbing to the top.

Eight: Buckwheat River

Hunyuan not only has a long history and numerous historical sites, but also has beautiful scenery of water and sky. Buckwheat Chuan, when I first heard this name, I felt very poetic. I thought of the scene in Hayao Miyazaki's animation, so I decided to find out.

Circling along the mountain road, the first thing I saw was Buckwheat Chuan Village. The village here is very simple and quiet, which is the rural appearance I am longing for. Continue to go up, is the grassland in the sky.

In summer, the grassland in the air has a cool climate and lush flowers and plants. Clouds and mists often rise up from the foot of the mountain and wander around the ground. People can "touch the white clouds and the sky with their hands, and step on the flowers and grasslands" as the wind blows, just like a fairy tale world.

A large piece of grass is like a carpet, and the grass of different shades is dotted with flowers. Find a soft place to sit for a while, and quietly appreciate everything in front of you. Before you know it, you have become the protagonist in the fairy tale.

A gust of mountain wind blows, and dandelions are flying with the wind. The beautiful buckwheat river has embraced the tourists physically and mentally, soaking in the dense mountains and fields. The humid air washes away the miscellaneous worries in the dust, and makes the light and quiet happiness rise from the bottom of my heart.

On the tree-lined roads in the mountains, the singing of birds is clear, the flowers are fragrant, and cows and cattle are flashing in the grass. Such a picture of harmony between man and nature is too rare in reality. I will definitely remember the beauty and small fortune that Buckwheat River brought me.

Nine: Shenxi Wetland

At sunset, we came to Shenxi Wetland Park. The blue waves here are rippling, the fish are flying in the shallow bottom, and the geese are sweeping the sky. The unique scenery of Saibei Water Town is really unforgettable.

Coming here to wait for a sunset is an important part of our itinerary. When I came here, I was afraid that the weather would be bad, so I couldn't do what I wanted. Unexpectedly, the weather was beautiful in the afternoon, and the weather turned better.

After a while, the sunset glow reddened the sky and the wetland, and everything in the world turned golden yellow instantly. The light of the setting sun on the water, like many golden needles and silver threads, swayed with the water waves.

Soon, the sun began to set in the west and became smaller and smaller from the semicircle, and I watched it disappear into the sky without taking my eyes off it.

The sunset glows the sky red, the gorgeous water surface, the swaying reeds, and the cool evening breeze are so beautiful. It was getting dark and we were on our way home.

Ten: Hunyuan Ancient City

The streets and alleys of Hunyuan Ancient City are long and the courtyard is deep. The layout of the state government is strict and the structure is exquisite. It is located in Yong'an West Street in the county seat. It was first built in the Jin Dynasty. The existing building was presided over by Zhang Pu, the state judge in the seventh year of Hongwu, the emperor of the Ming Dynasty. It has a history of 645 years.

At night, in the dimly lit place of Hunyuan Ancient City under the night, thousands of lights are swaying and stars flow. The red lanterns hanging high in front of the shops add a bit of enchantment and mystery to the ancient city. We strolled on the streets of the ancient city with ancient flavors and colorful colors, enjoying the various styles of the ancient city to the fullest.

Eat: Hunyuan, open your taste buds


Hunyuan jelly is famous for its good powder quality and fragrant seasoning. The high-quality potato powder in Hengshan area is used as the main raw material to make powder lumps. In the late 1970s, a young daughter-in-law, Zhao Yueqin, appeared at the door of Shiqiao Non-staple Food Store in Hunyuan County, carrying the burden of selling jelly. With her superb powder making skills, the little daughter-in-law jelly became a household name in Hunyuan City.

Hunyuan Pianliang Stewed Vegetables is a popular farm dish. Its characteristics can be summed up in these words: hot, fresh, fast and beautiful. Tracing back to its origin, it has a history of fifty or sixty years. Pianliang stewed dishes must be fried and sold immediately. Such dishes are both hot and fresh. The stewed dishes are made of potatoes, tofu, pork, Hengshan mushrooms, vermicelli and seasonal vegetables in proportion and then stewed in a pot.

Hunyuan is rich in resources and rich in products. It is famous all over the world as the "Hometown of Astragalus in China". When you come here, you must try the Astragalus health hot pot. In addition, there is Hunyuan Astragalus Mutton Soup, which uses mutton as the main ingredient. The cooking technique of Astragalus Mutton Soup is mainly cooking.

Of course, when you come to Shanxi, you must be inseparable from pasta, and the colorful pasta here is popular all over the world. Hunyuan sliced ​​noodles, pies, steamed dumplings, oat noodles, getuo 栲栳栳, everything is delicious, you can find any restaurant, you will not be disappointed.

Accommodation: Hunyuan, Hengshan International Hotel

We stayed at the Hunyuan Hengshan International Hotel on this trip. The hotel is just opposite the Hunyuan Ancient City. It is located in the urban area. There are many restaurants and shopping malls around. The location is good.

The overall environment of the hotel rooms is also very good. There are standard rooms and single rooms with complete configuration and high cost performance.