Shanxi Province
Shanxi, which means west of Taihang Mountain, is an important birthplace of Chinese civilization. The abbreviation "Jin" was named after Zhou Cheng Wang Ji chanted his younger brother Ji Yu in "Tang" and later changed it to "Jin". Shanxi is located to the west of the Taihang Mountains, to the east of the Yellow River to the north, and to the south of the Great Wall. Duke Wen of Jin ruled the feudal lords when he gained Shanxi, the Tuoba family controlled the Central Plains when they owned Shanxi, and Li Yuan and his son ruled the world based on Shanxi. There are countless separatist regimes that have appeared in Shanxi in history, such as Liu Han and Murong Yan. The Fen River is the most important river in Shanxi. Taiyuan Basin and Xiangfen Basin are formed along the Fen River. It is the most economically developed area in Shanxi. It produces fine wine Fenjiu and its coal resources rank among the top in China. In addition, there are Xinding Basin, Datong Basin and Yuncheng Basin, which are also important coal-producing areas. The Taihang Mountains are in the east, the Luliang Mountains in the west, and the Hengshan Mountains and Wutai Mountains in the north. During the period of the Loess Plateau, the terrain is complex and diverse, which seriously restricts its economic development. The climate in Shanxi is dry, and there are many historical and cultural relics such as ancient buildings, painted sculptures, stone carvings, and murals. Traveling to Shanxi is to read history and is a good place for archaeology. Therefore, there is an adventurous trip during the epidemic. July 24, 2022 It took 12 days to return on the 3rd, from Jinzhong to Datong, and returned near the frontier.
Pingyao Ji
On July 24, 2022, take the high-speed rail from Leshan to the ancient city of Pingyao in Jinzhong, and stay in the "Xinlongmen Inn" in the city. On July 25, the official tour of the ancient city of Pingyao began.
The ancient city of Pingyao was included in the list of world cultural heritage in 1997. The reason is that the ancient city of Pingyao is an outstanding example of Chinese Han nationality cities in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the development of Chinese history, it shows people an extraordinary Han culture. A complete picture of social, economic and religious development. When it comes to the protection of the ancient city of Pingyao, I have to mention Professor Ruan Yishan of Tongji University and his team. Professor Ruan Yisan once recalled: "In the 1980s, Pingyao, like other places, underwent extensive construction and development, and many buildings were demolished. I went to Pingyao to see it. , The local city wall was removed, a main road was opened, and it was opened for 180 meters. More than 30 Ming Dynasty buildings and more than 100 Qing Dynasty buildings were demolished. I approached the leader of the Shanxi Provincial Construction Committee and asked for a plan for Pingyao to protect the ancient city. But planning alone is not enough, money is also needed. I am the lecturer Ruan Yisanjie, and people don’t take you seriously. I will go directly to Beijing and find the relevant leaders. After confirming the protection plan, first allocate funds to repair the city wall. It is 80,000 yuan, don’t underestimate this 80,000 yuan, it is equivalent to 8 million yuan now.” Pingyao people have not forgotten the efforts made by the "Ruan Yi Mountains" to protect the ancient city of Pingyao. Today's Pingyao County is divided into two parts: the new city and the ancient city. Luo Zhewen Road. Of course, the protection of Pingyao is not solely dependent on the "Ruan Yishans". Countless people have made various contributions, and I would like to thank everyone.
The ancient city of Pingyao is shaped like a tortoise, so it is called "turtle city", and the "city building" is located in the center of the ancient city.
1. Escort bureau and ticket number
Escort. The dart transport of the ancient Escort Bureau is the transportation of goods, the predecessor of modern logistics. Shanxi has complex terrain, many people and little land, and frequent natural disasters. Many people choose to go out for business, especially "going to the west exit" to go outside the pass. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Shanxi's commodity economy was developed, and people who made a fortune either sent money to their homes or sent goods to other places, so the bodyguard bureaus specializing in freight came into being. According to the textual research of "Shanxi Ticket Number History" written by Wei Juxian, a modern scholar, the originator of bodyguards should be Zhang Heiwu, the "Shenquan" of Shanxi during the Qianlong period. He established the "Xinglong Bodyguard Agency" on Qianmen Street, Shuntianfu, Beijing. It is to ensure the safety of funds for Shanxi merchants. Today, in Pingyao City, there is the "Chinese Escort Museum", located at No. 61 South Street; there is the "Tongxinggong" Escort, located at No. 105, South Street, Pingyao Ancient City (I have not been there); there is the "North China First Escort Museum", located at Dongdae 22 Street South. Although the income of darts is quite high, it is extremely difficult. It requires a strong background, strong relationships, high martial arts, loyalty, and responsibility. In the process of walking darts, thieves and robbers may be encountered. Escort masters often show courtesy first and then soldiers. In the process of walking darts, a set of jargon gradually formed, for example:
The visitor was not kind, and he yelled angrily: "Heavenly King Gedihu! (You are so bold, dare to mess with your ancestors!)"
Not wanting to cause trouble, he responded: "The pagoda suppresses the river demon. (If that's the case, tell me to fall to my death from the mountain and drown in the river.)"
…
The risk factor of darts is high, it needs a lot of manpower, material and financial resources, it needs to mobilize various relationships, and it needs force as a guarantee, so the cost is relatively high, and the fees are high.
ticket number. It is a credit institution mainly engaged in foreign exchange business.
The earliest ticket number in Pingyao is "Rishengchang" (perhaps the earliest ticket number in China). Experts estimate based on various existing historical materials that the "Rishengchang" ticket number was established in the third year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1823). About 200 years. Lei Lutai, a shrewd businessman from Pingyao, believed that there was a huge business opportunity in view of the high cost of darts and the huge risk of missing darts, so he persuaded Li Daquan, a wealthy businessman in Xidapu Village, Pingyao County, to establish a new business name, which was "Rishengchang". The name is located in the bustling West Street in Pingyao County. The name contains the meaning of "rising day" no matter from the top down or the bottom up. The "Rishengchang" bank also operates both deposit and lending business. This is a milestone in the beginning of the remittance business in the history of China's financial development and has epoch-making historical significance. It is said that Mao Honghui, the deputy manager (second shopkeeper) of "Rishengchang" disagreed with the manager Lei Lutai (the first shopkeeper). Mao Honghui was squeezed out and forced to resign. The "Wei Tai Hou" bank was established next door to Chang Chang. "Wei Taihou" broke the monopoly situation of "Rishengchang" bank's exclusive dominance of the whole world, and there was a situation of fierce competition between two major bank account factions. Although Lei and Mao were competitors, they also respected each other and cherished each other. It is said that Mao's grandson was named Mao Lutai, and Lei's son was named Lei Honghui. Liu Qinghe once studied foreign exchange at the "Wei Taihou" bank. Later, due to the outbreak of the Taiping Revolution and the chaos in the south of the Yangtze River, all the bank accounts were scattered and cut off personnel. Liu and his friend Meng Ziyuan left the "Wei Taihou" bank. Attempt to open another door. Later, the Wang family united with the Mi family, jointly invested and hired Liu Qinghe and Mencius Yuan, and established the "Synergical Celebration" bank. During the Tongzhi and Guangxu years of the Qing Dynasty, there were more than 20 ticket offices in Pingyao County. In addition to Rishengchang, Weitaihou, and Xiexiqing, there were also Rishengtong, Rishengda, Baichuansheng, Wanyuansheng, and Xiexi. Tai and other big-ticket banks have karma with each other, mainly concentrated in West Street and South Street.
The Ma Family Courtyard is the former residence of Ma Zhongxuan, the head of the "Four Families in Pingyao" and a great merchant in the Qing Dynasty. It is also the largest residence in the ancient city of Pingyao. The overall layout of the compound looks like a big "horse" when viewed from a bird's eye view, which is a metaphor for the meaning of "horse success, rapid progress" in the business of the Ma family. It is said that Ma Zhongxuan has three families. The first wife is gentle and gentle, who gave birth to the eldest son and inherited the family business; The business is the "general manager" of Ma Zhongxuan's "business empire". The Ma family also operates ticket offices, and the underground behind the stage is the "vault". As the saying goes, "the most dangerous place is the safest place."
Bank accounts have the characteristics of modern finance, but they are not modern finance after all. The manager responsibility system is implemented, and the owner does not interfere with the operation, but it is not a modern enterprise after all. Commercial and financial capital is developed, but there is no business operation. Therefore, with the birth of the modern financial industry, the rise of modern capitalism has gradually declined.
In 1900, the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded China. The Empress Dowager Cixi fled westward with Emperor Guangxu, relatives of the emperor, and ministers of the left and right. They passed by Pingyao and were short of funds. It is said that after the "Synery Celebration" bank supported 200,000 taels of silver, the Empress Dowager Cixi issued a decree in the name of Emperor Guangxu to warn: "Be especially content." When I write about this period of history, I always feel that this is not just a matter of patriotism, but more of a rascal. In despotic countries, merchants are always political vassals and have a low status. After Ming and Qing merchants became rich, they bought houses and land, donated officials and titles, and hung up the name of the court. They were trembling, which seriously restricted economic development and social progress. That era was the era of "official standard" and "rule of man", and public power was the real hard power. Foreign aggression and the obstruction of the autocratic system are undoubtedly the important reasons for the decline of the bank.
2. City Wall, County Government Office, Confucian Temple and Chenghuang Temple
city walls. The ancient city wall of Pingyao, with a total length of about 6 kilometers, is the best preserved county city wall in China. The ancient city wall of Pingyao was built in the Ming Dynasty, the third year of Hongwu (1370), and the current city wall basically maintains the shape and structure of the early Ming Dynasty. The city wall surrounds the ancient city for a week, and there are six city gates in total, one in the north and one in the south, and two in the east and west. The ancient city wall is composed of urn city, city tower, turret, Dianjiangtai and other architectural facilities. If you are interested in climbing the city wall, you can also see the observation holes, perforations, crenels, iron cannons and other enemy defense facilities on the top of the city wall. The city wall is built with rammed earth. The city wall is paved with blue bricks, and the wall may also be covered with blue bricks. There is a moat outside the city, which is the so-called "city pool". In the city centered on Shilou, there are "four main streets, eight small streets, and seventy-two alleys", a total of eighty-four streets and alleys.
We entered the city through the "Gongji Gate" at the north gate. During the epidemic, we needed to check the itinerary card and health code when entering the city, and the pass was smooth. "Gongji Gate" means the Polaris "lives in its place, and all the stars arch it". Pass through the epidemic prevention checkpoint and enter the Wengcheng from the city gate on the left. The Wengcheng is surrounded by high walls, which is a place to ambush the enemy in the era of cold weapons. Pass through the Wengcheng, and then pass through the city gate to enter the city. Climbing the city wall from the left side, the "Pole Star Gate" is several feet high, with carved beams and painted buildings, eaves with flying stilts, and glazed precious light, shining brightly and magnificently. Condescending, overlooking the ancient city, the streets and alleys are criss-crossed, the warp and weft are intertwined, orderly, and neat like a chessboard. The city walls on the left and right sides are like two arms stretched out, Kong Wu is powerful. Not far away, the watchtower of the Ma Family Courtyard stands tall, which is the tallest building in the ancient city, which shows that Shanxi merchants Ma Zhongxuan was selected to be invincible. The lower west gate is called "Fengyi Gate", which means "there is a phoenix coming to Yi". It is under maintenance and cannot be entered or exited. Strolling along the "Fengyi Gate", you don't know where you are going, "listen to what it stops and rest", in July and August, the Sophora japonica flowers are in full bloom, and they fall like snow. On the way, I saw a local wedding, greeted and sent off, and the convoy of people moved slowly along the ancient city wall. The ancient city wall was just a part of their lives, and they had long been accustomed to it. And we are also turning the ancient city wall into a part of life...
County government. The county government that existed in the Ming Dynasty was preserved because it was once the seat of the Pingyao County Government.
As shown in the picture, the Pingyao county government follows the ancient ritual system, presenting a symmetrical pattern on the central axis, with the left writing and the right military, and the front court and the back sleep. The "Yimen" is usually closed, and when Xinzhi County takes office, the superior inspects it, and it is only opened during major celebrations. After passing through the "Yimen", what you see is six houses, which are divided into six powers. Turning to the right, you can see the prison, where the captured suspected criminals are held, and there is a death row room, which is closed and dark, "darkness". The catcher's house is gone, only the base site. The county government supervision and arrest hall was first built in the early Qing Dynasty, echoing the north and south of the prison, mainly to facilitate the interrogation of prisoners at any time. Turn left and enter the lobby "Qinmintang", which is the most important building of the county government. The couplets on both sides of the lobby are: "Eat the food of the common people and wear the clothes of the common people, so the common people can deceive themselves to be the common people. If you win an official, you will not be honored and if you lose an official, you will not be humiliated. Don't say that an official is useless. The place depends on an official." In the center of the lobby hang the four characters "Mirror Hanging High", which means good at investigating cases and judging cases fairly and strictly. On the ceiling of the Warm Pavilion, there is a picture of "Thirty-six Cranes Facing the Sun". It is said that the thirty-six cranes represent the division of the six kingdoms into thirty-six prefectures by the Qin Dynasty, and the sun symbolizes the imperial power. This means that the county magistrate has supreme authority in Pingyao. When trying important cases, the magistrate of the county sits in the lobby, and the government officials with weapons and sticks stand on both sides, and the magistrate of the county gives orders after listening to them. On the ground directly in front of the lobby, there were deep kneeling marks. Once the suspect was escorted to the lobby, he had to kneel to the magistrate. This is the epitome of "autocracy" and "rule by man" in the Ming and Qing Dynasties in China. Passing through the lobby is the "house gate". The officials who guard the "house gate" are called "menzi", and those who enter the inner hall to do business are called "going through the back door". Those who manage the gate must, otherwise they will not be able to see the magistrate. "Second Hall" is the place where the county magistrate meets guests, handles daily cases, and mediates disputes. Behind the second hall is the "inner house", the residence of the county magistrate. Before the relocation of the Pingyao government of New China, this place was the residence of the county magistrate. Behind the second hall is the "Daxian Building", a two-story building in the Yuan Dynasty, dedicated to the Great Fox Immortal, who is in charge of the official seal with the help of the Great Immortal. Turn right, it is the "back garden", which is a place for leisure and entertainment of the county magistrate. Before the relocation of the Pingyao government of New China, this place was the residence of the county party secretary. It is precisely because of the existence of these two great gods (the county magistrate and the secretary of the county party committee) in the Pingyao county government that the county government can be preserved in a relatively complete way. Corresponding to the secular county government is the "Town God's Temple" in the underworld.
Town God's Temple. According to the etiquette system of "harmony between man and nature", with the south street in the city as the axis, the Town God's Temple and the county government are symmetrical from east to west, and the Town God's Temple ranks first. Centered on the main hall of the City God, it consists of four major parts: Liucao Mansion, Land Hall, Zaojun Temple, and Caishen Temple (attached to Zhenwu Building).
In the spiritual world of the Chinese people, what is in the Yang world, there is what is in the underworld, one-to-one correspondence: There is an emperor in the Yang world, and the Jade Emperor in the underworld; there is a queen in the Yang world, and the queen mother in the underworld; ; There are officials in the yang, and there are messengers in the underworld; there are Xingzhufang in the yang, and there are Liucao's mansion in the underworld; …
Enter from the mountain gate, bow and pass the stage, which means "there is a god when you look up three feet". Passing through the Liucao Mansion, I saw the scenes of hell. People who do evil in the yang world will be punished in the underworld. Black and white impermanence, bull-headed and horse-faced people are brought in, and they are judged by the king of Hades. They are subjected to various tortures, which are extremely terrifying and unheard of. Then pass through the Songzi Niangniang Hall and Zaojun Hall to enter the main hall: Xiandian Hall and Chenghuang Hall. The so-called hall of offerings is the place where tributes are placed for sacrifices; the so-called city god's hall is the place where the master of the city god is worshipped. It was first built at the beginning of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty, and was rebuilt in Chenghua. In the Qing Dynasty, Zheng Banqiao Zaiwei County rebuilt the Town God's Temple. On the gables on both sides of the main hall of God's Temple, there are two well-preserved light-color murals of the Ming Dynasty, namely "City God's Tour During the Day" and "City God's Return to Mansion at Night", with smooth lines and vivid images. Behind the City God's Hall is the City God's bedroom, which conforms to the system of "sleeping in the front and sleeping in the back". Turn right to the God of Wealth Temple, dedicated to Zhao Gongming. We have seen Pingyao Town God's Temple, Zaojun Temple-Chenghuang Temple-Caishen Temple, three temples in one, a blend of diversity. Each of the three temples performs its duties, corresponding to the prayers of the world. Zao Jun is responsible for the family's well-being, and there is a concubine who sends off children next to him. The City God's Office is safe, the weather is smooth, and the official fortune is prosperous. The God of Wealth has a successful career, makes a fortune and rises to the top. There is also a stage and theater building in the temple, where the secular and sacred are combined into one, and economic life and spiritual life are integrated.
Temple of Literature. The Confucian Temple is a place for offering sacrifices to Confucius, storing scriptures, and studying scientific research. Pingyao Confucian Temple consists of three parts: sacrificial area, Confucianism area and imperial examination area.
At the entrance, you can see a small moon pool, which seems to be surging with spring water. After passing the Mixing Bridge and Jixing Gate, you will see the Dacheng Hall. Dacheng Hall is a temple dedicated to Confucius. The inscription on the beams in the hall records: Dacheng Hall was rebuilt in the third year of Jin Dading (1163). The main hall is five rooms wide and five rooms deep, with a nearly square plane and a single eave resting on the top of the mountain. It is built on a brick platform with a height of 1 meter, with a wide platform in front and stone railings around it. The front eaves are separated by partition doors, and windows are placed slightly in between. Under the eaves, there are seven pavements of Dougong, and the double copying and double lowering are made by stealing heart. Ang is to criticize bamboo Ang, playing the shape of a grasshopper. The beam frame is divided into two types: the grass and the Ming. The grass is hidden under the ceiling, and the Ming is used for the exposed places under the ceiling. The beam frame structure is ten rafters, and the front and rear grooves are connected by slats. Between the inner columns, the slats made of compound beams are used to bear the load. The hump and other layers are stacked, and the ratio of the height to width of the cross-section of the beams is mostly three to two, basically adopting the practice of the Song and Jin Dynasties. There is a caisson in the center, which is made of small dougong stacked frames, with regular shape and exquisite workmanship.
The Confucianism area and the imperial examination area behind the Dacheng Hall are basically modern buildings, with calligraphy and painting exhibitions and shopping areas. Going forward, you can go out from the back door, and you will find the Chenghuang Temple a hundred steps away.
3. Shuanglin Temple and Zhenguo Temple
Shuanglin Temple. Qiaotou Village, located six kilometers southwest of the ancient city of Pingyao, was originally named "Zhongdu Temple" and has a history of more than 1,400 years. In the Song Dynasty, it took the meaning of "the place where the Buddha Sakyamuni entered Nirvana" and changed its name to Shuanglin Temple. There are Heavenly King Hall, Bodhisattva Hall, Arhat Hall, Wusheng Hall, Daxiong Hall, Earth Hall, Sakyamuni Hall, Yama Hall, Empress Hall, and Thousand Buddha Hall. The most outstanding feature of Shuanglin Temple is its painted clay sculptures. There are more than 2,000 painted sculptures of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, heavenly kings, King Kong, Arhats, Hercules, supporters, rare birds and animals, landscapes, flowers and trees in each hall. . Bright colors and vivid shapes. In addition, the Tang pagoda tree, Song steles, Ming bells, ancient buildings and murals in the temple are also very precious.
Zhenguo Temple. Located in Haodong Village in the north of the county seat, it was formerly known as "Jingcheng Temple". The temple is divided into two courtyards. The East is the "Guanyin Hall", the west is the "Ksitigarbha Hall", each with five rooms, and the "Three Buddha Hall" is built in the middle. The most outstanding feature of Zhenguo Temple is its ancient buildings, where there are a collection of wooden buildings from the Five Dynasties, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas was first built in the Five Dynasties, and the inscription on the beams inside the hall still clearly bears the inscription: "Weida Han Tianhui was built in seven years" (963). The Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas has a unique shape, with a nearly square plane, a single eaves and Xieshan roof, and far-reaching eaves. The huge four-jump and seven-paved bucket arches exceed 2/3 of the height of the columns, making the roof of the hall like an umbrella. It is quite rare in the temple buildings of the past dynasties. There are 11 statues in the hall, with plump and plump faces, tall and strong bodies, slightly curved torsos, and worship-like shapes. The modeling techniques are similar to the style of Tang sculptures, full of the charm of statues in the Five Dynasties. The Hall of Heavenly Kings was built in the Yuan Dynasty with three rooms wide and four rafters deep, hanging on the top of the mountain. The rest of the temples were built in Ming and Qing Dynasties.
On July 25th, under the guidance of a Pingyao tour guide, visit the Majia Courtyard, County Government Office, Ticket Office, and Escort Bureau; on July 26th, visit Chenghuang Temple and Confucian Temple in the morning, and take a taxi to Shuanglin Temple and Zhenguo Temple in the afternoon. There is also Chunyang Hall in the city, a building in the Liao and Jin Dynasties, which has not yet arrived. On July 27, I took the high-speed rail to Taiyuan and took a taxi to Mount Wutai.
