Yunnan has always been a blank spot in China's domestic territory, and finally decided to check in.
Lijiang Dali is familiar, but it is also a popular tourist destination. After weighing it, I chose the relatively small southeastern part of Yunnan---Dongchuan Red Land, Yuanyang Terraced Fields, and Puzehei.
I chose to travel on the 10.1 long vacation and sign up online. Now many people like to travel on peak shifts or abroad, and this is indeed a niche route, so there are not many group members on this trip ------ me and my old partner Zijing , a couple who traveled to the United States and returned to China, two SNOW sisters, and the team leader Tutu, a total of 7 people.
I started to pay attention to air tickets very early, the price has been high, and a few years ago, I had a tragic experience that a flight transiting through Kunming was temporarily canceled due to heavy fog, and finally decided to take the high-speed rail. It has become more and more discovered that air tickets are not as cheap as they used to be.
This year, the purchase of train tickets from Shanghai to Kunming went smoothly, and it turned out that the decision to take the train was still very correct. On October 1, a typhoon passed through Shanghai, and many flights were forced to be cancelled.
On the night of September 30th, it rained in bursts. The weather forecast showed heavy wind and heavy rain all day on the 1st. Fortunately, the accuracy of the forecast has improved. In order to avoid the heavy rain, the high-speed train at 8.50 in the morning will go out at 6.30, because of that time period There is a neutral gear that turns negative, as long as you get on the subway, you can feel at ease.
Fortunately, I went out early, and the serpentine line that started from the basement level of Hongqiao Station also scared me. I called my mother to report that I had arrived at the train station. My mother said that it was very windy and windy outside.
Fortunately, I got on the high-speed rail without any risk, and it was the first time I encountered such a beautiful thing that the next platform was our carriage. My character exploded, I got on the train, had breakfast, slept and chatted all the way, and I didn’t feel so boring.
Arriving at Kunming South Railway Station, I met up with a couple who arrived on the same train. They bought air tickets at first, but because of the typhoon, they took the high-speed rail. They originally wanted to share a car with four people. Later, they found that the trunk of their taxi could not accommodate four 20-inch cars. The suitcases were taken separately, and we took a taxi separately. When we arrived at the hotel, the team leader and girl sonw were already waiting for us.
Our first stop in southeast Yunnan is Dongchuan District, Kunming City. Minorities in Dongchuan account for about 5% of the total population, mainly Yi, Hui, Miao, Buyi, Bai, and Naxi. We are going to Dongchuan Xintian Township, more than 40 kilometers southwest of Kunming---- -The famous Dongchuan Red Land in the photography circle.
Red land, as the name implies, is red land. It is the color gradually formed by the iron in the soil after being oxidized and deposited for many years. Especially after the land is refurbished, it will show more brilliant colors, but obviously we have not caught up with the land. season.
According to Baidu, it is 40 kilometers away from Kunming, but this 40 kilometers should be the straight-line distance on the map. We took a car for half a day to get there. It seems that it is inconvenient to get on the expressway. It is a provincial road, and there are speed bumps along the way. The driver said that because it is a provincial road, there will be many villagers passing by, so the speed must be controlled. The subsequent provincial roads are also like this.
Bumpy all the way, the magical land is in sight.
Checking the weather forecast before departure, it was raining every day, so I didn’t bring a Canon D60, but the weather was pretty good. Although the sky was gloomy, we were still shocked when we saw it for the first time.
The red part is the bare soil that has not been planted after harvesting, and the part with other colors is the land with the farmer.
The locally grown potatoes and taro powder are delicious, and the vegetables are far fresher than those in Shanghai. This piece of land like a palette is bestowed by God. Although this is not a popular tourist destination, there are still many tourists. Come on, tourism is also a local industry.
I don't know what it's like to live on the top of the mountain opposite.
In the evening, the driver took us along the ridge path to watch the sunset. Although the rain did not fall, the clouds still disturbed us from time to time. The sun finally broke through the clouds at the last moment of setting and cast a ray of light. Tragic.
The first one is the driver who also accompanied the tour guide. He started to participate in various photoshoots enthusiastically. After half of the trip, he was probably tired and his enthusiasm faded.
The sunset in southeastern Yunnan is relatively late, and the sunrise is also relatively late. We set off at 5.30 in the morning to watch the sunrise. Dongchuan is located on a plateau. It will be very cold without the help of the sun. Wearing a jacket, the driver is familiar with the terrain, leads us to occupy the best angle, and waits quietly.
At first, there was a blue sky in front of us, and the sun's gleam gradually emerged from the horizon, but the large black clouds behind us were blown by the wind and quickly covered the sky in front of us. out.
The sun has risen behind the clouds.
Although there is no glow to add a sense of layering, it still looks beautiful this way
When I was about to leave Dongchuan, the driver said, let’s take a photo with this grandpa. Just give me 10 yuan. It’s really 10 yuan. Let’s take various photos together. Unexpectedly, my friends said that the photo of the grandfather is very emotional, like an oil painting. . In fact, at first, the grandpa with the puppy next to him was accidentally photographed, and it became a place to check in. Then this grandpa joined with Yangyang, and then this grandma, hehe, Grandpa Yangyang has a more sense of the camera, and there are reminders We're like, "Wait, the sun is bad right now... oh, let's shoot now"
Fuxian Lake is more than 70 kilometers away from Kunming. It is the back garden of Kunming people. The water is crystal clear and crystal clear. The driver said that it is comparable to the water quality of Lugu Lake. In order to protect water resources, motorized boats are not allowed on the lake. I didn’t expect there to be diving projects, but it is obviously unsafe to dive here. We all feel that the safety management on the lake needs to be improved.
In the evening, climb up to Bijia Mountain by the lake and look at the lake from afar.
what kind of night is this
sad and nostalgic
you say remember this moment
even from now on
such a passionate wish
how can it be blown away
autumn wind blowing lake
leave ripples in my heart
Love hate parting us. . . . . . .
This is Li Jian's "Fuxian Lake"
The driver recommended that we must try the local copper pot yam rice, which is rice with potatoes. We usually eat a little rice for a meal, but we completely eliminated a pot, and basically do not need side dishes. When I came back, I used a rice cooker to restore it, but it was not as delicious.
Jianshui Ancient City, a transfer station in the southeast, originally thought that you could find objects with Yunnan characteristics, but was quite disappointed.
Maybe we want to see her simple style, but what the locals need is modernity, but they can't achieve their own characteristics, and the result is the same as all the ancient towns.
Although there are no highlights, but since we are here, we still have to go sightseeing.
You can play like this in Jianshui. First, go to Lin'an Station built in 1928 to punch a card. This product of the French colonial period seemed to have brought civilization to China, which was backward at that time. In fact, it sent Chinese materials by railway. After going to Vietnam and then to France, the waiting room is small and has a sense of age. Now there are 2 old-fashioned sightseeing trains every day. I remember that there is one around 14:00 every afternoon. The tickets are tight, and we did not catch up.
The afternoon sun in Yunnan is very hot. You can find a restaurant with seats facing the street to eat and drink tea. There are internet celebrity restaurants in ancient towns that have been photographed. There are too many customers, so it is not recommended.
Or rest in the hotel to hide from the sun, we just feel too hot, so we go back to the hotel first. There is an episode here. I originally wanted to call it Didi, but I have not been able to locate the exact location. I am not familiar with the place, and I can’t describe it in words. Then I saw that there is a bus stop next to me. After several refreshes, I finally confirmed it. Bus routes, and then I was pleasantly surprised to find that I can get a local transportation card on Alipay, and then I was told that the bus card cannot be swiped when the car arrived. Well, the hardware in the small city is basically complete, and the software still needs to work hard, come on! ! !
Go out when the sun sets, take a taxi to the ancient town, buy a cup of local milk tea, and then find a place to eat barbecue. The name of the one we went to is forgotten, but I remember it is opposite the Xijia Garden. It was also recommended by the driver. In a small yard, there are kao tofu stalls, and a circle of people are sitting around, watching us enter the door, the host greets us to go in, through a door opening, inside is a small courtyard, with a few tables, almost full , only one table under the eaves was left empty, just enough for us.
It's very old.
Compared with the taste of Internet celebrity restaurants, it is more suitable.
In the evening, there was a light show of "Jianshui Development" on the city tower. There were a lot of people, and they squeezed in to take a few photos. At this time, the surrounding traffic was restricted, so we had to walk two kilometers back to the hotel.
Depart for Yuanyang Rice Terraces and pass by a fruit market.
This market is close to the Sino-Vietnamese border, and there are all kinds of tropical fruits from Vietnam. In fact, I don’t like tropical fruits very much. The only thing I want to eat is mango. A green mango in the market is 10 yuan, is it cheaper than Shanghai? I said that my favorite fruit is watermelon, and in Puzehei, the group members fulfilled my wish.
Yuanyang Terraced Fields is located in the south of Ailao Mountain in Yuanyang County, Yunnan Province. It is a masterpiece left by the Hani people for generations and is the core area of the Honghe Hani Terraced Fields.
The team leader T Tutu arranged a light hike for us, and invited Xiaoha (I forgot the name, let’s call it Xiaoha) --- a Hani youth in his 30s as a guide. Xiaoha speaks Mandarin with a slight accent. We told the history of the Hani nationality: Hani nationality, Yi nationality and Lahu nationality all originated from the ancient Qiang nationality.
The ancient Qiang people were nomadic on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. During the Qin Dynasty, for the rapid expansion of the great cause of unification, the nomadic groups of the ancient Qiang people living on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau were attacked and dispersed and migrated, and several names of the evolution of the Qiang people appeared. "Heyi" is a branch of the ancient Qiang people who migrated southward. When they settled on the banks of the Dadu River, they started farming in order to adapt to the local flat dams and the geographical environment and conditions of "a hundred grains grow on their own". After the Hani people settled on the banks of the Dadu River, they were forced to leave their farming settlements due to war and other reasons and migrated again, entering the subtropical Ailao Mountains in Yunnan.
Approaching terraced fields.
Terraced fields are one of the basic farmlands in hilly areas and arid areas. It is a stepped farmland built along the contour line along the hillside. Terrace cultivation in China has a long history and is widely distributed. According to the textual research of unearthed cultural relics, there are pictures of pottery fields in the ancient tombs of the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220 AD) in Pengshui County, Sichuan today. On slopes below 25°, the plane shape of the field is generally strip-shaped horizontally along the contour line.
Now a large amount of sloping farmland needs to be built into terraces, which is mainly done manually. The terraced fields can adapt to various complex topographical conditions, and it is convenient to carry out in winter and spring slack seasons. The investment of terraced fields is low and the quality is high. The ridges of terraced fields occupy a certain amount of arable land, which reduces the area of arable land accordingly. In order to make full use of the land, crops can be planted on the ridges, such as pumpkins, yellow flowers and broad beans.
The terraced fields in China are mainly distributed in the mountainous areas in the south of the Yangtze River, most of which are in Guangxi and Yunnan. This is because these areas have more rainfall and are mountainous. The terraced fields are built on the mountains. It is the fruit of long-term labor of farmers and the crystallization of wisdom. Among them, Ailao Mountain in Yunnan and Longji Rice Terraces in Longsheng, Guangxi are more famous.
Terraced fields have a history of thousands of years, but even today it is difficult to use modern tools. In the absence of modern equipment, ditches are the best way to divert water. Mountains and mountains are connected, and ditches are connected. The top of the mountain can also irrigate farmland by accumulating rainwater and diverting water from ditches.
In addition to crops, fish and ducks are raised in the farmland. The weeds and pests in the rice fields are the "food" for the fish and ducks, and the excrement of the fish and ducks becomes the fertilizer for the rice fields.
After harvesting in October, the watering period is from November to April of the following year, when the terraced fields are the most beautiful. Although we missed the best season again, it is not completely without viewing.
Xiaoha said that now most of the young people in Hani have gone out to work, and the farmland is left for the elderly to take care of or leased to others. Every time the harvest comes, they will come back to help harvest. But after living in the city for a long time, I am not used to life in the countryside.
We asked, will you sell your family's farmland in the future? Xiaoha said, no, home is the last way out, and if one day you can't live in the city, at least you can have something to eat when you come back.
Walking all the way along the ridge, I saw villagers working from time to time.
I met two little girls who caught small fish in the ditch, do you know what this is?
It's the tadpole of a bullfrog, it's awesome.
In front came an old farmer with a haystack on his back, his steps were strenuous but firm.
A day of hiking ends at the viewing platform.
The sunset in Yuanyang is warm and sunny.
If the beauty of Dongchuan is the crystallization of nature and labor, then the beauty of Yuanyang is the result of generations of labor on this land. Whether it is Dongchuan or Yuan, self-sufficiency may not be a problem, but if you want to live a prosperous life I still need to go out in my life. After many years, will Xiaoha's children come back? Now the country is vigorously developing infrastructure, and the smoothness of roads and networks can help the local development of tourism, thereby driving the development of local products and driving the local economy.
Then here is an advertisement: Dongchuan Yuanyang has delicious potatoes and taro, delicious beef, mutton, and vegetables, and the hotel we stayed in Yuanyang also has the best facilities along the way. Many people think that they will be cheated by the locals when they go to a small place, but we probably didn’t meet them along the way. The shopkeepers are very sincere. Maybe the price for us will be higher than that of the locals, but every time they will suggest that it’s about the same as you order. No more, not enough.
Elderly people from ethnic minorities don’t know much Mandarin. Young and middle-aged people around 30.40 have a lot of accents, but children can play mobile phones, and Mandarin is much better than their elders. Perhaps the post-00s and post-10s are the main force to make the countryside embark on the road to prosperity Army, let those who go out return to this land.
Leaving Yuanyang, I came to Bisezhai, which I always wanted to see.
This railway station, built by the French in 1909, was brought into flames by "Youth".
Bisezhai Railway Station is located on the mountain ridge of Bisezhai Village, Caoba Town, 10 kilometers north of Mengzi County. For more than 30 years since 1910, Bisezhai has always played the role of the largest station along the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway. The large tin, furs and rice waiting to be transported abroad are filled with warehouses, the siren of the train, and the porter's horn sounding day and night, people from France, Britain, the United States, Germany, Japan and Greece came one after another and set up shop here. Foreign firms, restaurants, department stores, post offices. More than forty pairs of trains stop here every day, pulling people to load goods, washing cars and adding water, which is very lively; beautiful women and rich businessmen, foreign wine and coffee are scattered here and there. Its degree of openness and prosperity is second to none in southern Yunnan, and Kunming and Vietnamese enviously call it "Little Paris".
The strong French sentiment and mottled traces all reveal the vicissitudes of history.
Tutu invited the only commentator in the station --- a retired old teacher in his 70s. The old man told us about the history and evolution of the station.
I thought it was just a place to look back on history, but I didn’t expect that it still undertakes the task of freight, and just like in the movie, during the Sino-Vietnamese War, this was an important transportation line, bringing soldiers and supplies to the battlefield.
I originally thought that I could listen to lectures and reminisce quietly here, and take a group photo with the railway tracks quietly. However, the local government took the opportunity of "Youth" to vigorously develop the local tourism industry. The bus shuttled the surrounding residents for free to visit. There are many stills of "Youth", and small vendors provide military uniforms for rent.
The old man pointed to an open space in front of the station, saying that a large-scale resort was being built there, and more people would be able to visit Bisezhai by then, his words were full of longing and pride.
Tourism in a region can drive the local economy, and there is nothing wrong with developing tourism, but this kind of desecration of military uniforms is also intolerable.
Okay, I don’t want to worry about Bisezhai any more, let’s continue our itinerary.
Puzehei, located in Wenshan Prefecture, is the main attraction of this itinerary. The previous itineraries were all paving the way for her. "Where Are We Going, Dad" was filmed here, and it was Bai Qian's home in "Three Lives III".
I didn't have any special feelings before I came here, because I am not a fan of "Where to Go", and I have never watched "Three Lives III". But when we climbed to the top of the mountain and looked down, we were still amazed.
In such a fairy-like place, you can stop and stay for a few more days, and the traffic is still very convenient. Kunming is about 286 kilometers away from Puzhehei Scenic Area.
We live in this village. There is a three-story wooden house with old-fashioned padlocks, and there is a bar not far away. The resident singing is coming, which is perfect to listen to.
Does the willow-leaf boat at the foot of the mountain feel like a large area?
On the last day, because I had to rush back to Kunming, the schedule in the morning was quite tense.
Take a small carriage to the lake and visit the cave early. There are no other tourists to disturb, and the water in the cave is as clear as a mirror.
Touring the lake on a willow-leaf boat is like entering a fairyland.
The boatman said that although the government attaches great importance to the protection of water resources, the water quality is much worse than before. Maybe this is a double-edged sword.
Before leaving, let's take a look at Bai Qian's home, a beautiful fairyland.
On the way back, I took a tutorial on "Three Lives Three Worlds".