DAY3: Nangqian - Baizha Forest Farm

If there is no plan and corresponding preparations, those trips that just go away are mostly gimmicks, and the scenery on the way will gradually blur with time. What is worth remembering? , on the way to find the answer, look forward to meeting you!

I checked out early in the morning to pack my luggage and went downstairs. When I was putting the camel bag on the shelf, I looked down and saw that the rear tire was deflated at some point. I took it off and checked it. I found a steel wire on the tire. It should be yesterday when I entered the county. I got stuck in it when the shop was being repaired, and I blame myself for being careless and not paying attention to the inspection, which delayed my departure

Changed to a new tire, had breakfast, and hurriedly left Nangqian

According to legend, 2300 years ago, after the third ruler Ashoka, the third ruler of India during the Peacock King period, converted to Buddhism, he made offerings to the Buddha's relics in order to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Buddha Sakyamuni's Nirvana. 84,000 pagodas were built. 

Nineteen of them are distributed in China, and the ancient Garong Pagoda in Yushu, Nangqian Xiangda Town is one of them, so it is also called Nangqian Ashoka Pagoda. There is an Ashoka Pagoda and Bamai Temple in the west of the county. It is also well-known for Jet Li and other celebrities donating money for repairs. When interested friends pass by Nangqian, don’t miss it like I did.

Winding south along the Zhaqu River, along the way, I saw many people in the field busy with the autumn harvest. After passing a farmland, I stopped to take a rest and take pictures, and heard someone shouting something not far from the opposite side.

I heard that there was a Tibetan boy waving to me. It was more than two hours before we set off. I walked around the ditch and came to the front. I saw about seven or eight people, men and women, sitting in a group on the grass. There are pancakes, yogurt buckets, tsampa and other food in the middle

The little brother can speak Chinese, and invited me to sit down and have something to eat before leaving. Ajia on the side fetched a bowl and handed over a bag containing oily fruits. Others smiled and Mimi looked at me, chatting about something. I really have a relationship with this little brother. I met more than once on the way to change the country road in the afternoon.

After lunch, everyone was busy harvesting oats. My brother told me that the village where they live is not far from here, but from his mouth, it is not sure whether it will lead to Qamdo. In the afternoon, I was a little irritated by the continuous uphill and the trucks coming and going. Check the map from time to time and ask the villagers passing by about the situation, but what is shown on the map is somewhat different from what passers-by say

As shown in the picture above, I was wandering at the Fork Road 1 in the picture and wanted to take the gray road, which meant that I would leave the national road from here. The road, I said I went wrong, and I stopped looking at the map. I went back to the 2nd fork in the original road, and waited for someone to come out by the side of the road before asking.

After a while, a masked man riding a motorcycle came out

I hurriedly stepped forward and waved. After asking, I found out that from here you can go to Qamdo. Another big man gestured and said to go down, and the road above will lead to Niangla. , the big man smiled, put on his mask, put on his sunglasses, and flew away with a hit of the accelerator

The style and dress are quite similar to the ghost rider played by Nicolas Cage in the movie "Soul Chariot"

Deviated from the national road, onto a quiet country road

I finally got away from the dangerous trucks, and I didn’t have to climb uphill. Although the accommodation and supply points on the country roads are not as good as the national roads, the scenery in front of me and the unknown exploration make me very excited. After confirming that I went right, I lay down lazily On the hillside, take out apples, bananas, and melon seeds from the bag and bask in the sun leisurely

No one here knows me. Whether to walk or stop depends entirely on personal mood, relying on my own knowledge and experience to judge and make decisions.

Some people say that you can discover your unknown self while traveling, maybe this is the process

Baizha Salt Farm, in Tibetan, is "Bai Zha Tsa Ka", which means monkey's salt farm. There is a legend about the origin of this salt field: a long time ago, Baizha Village was surrounded by forests, and monkeys in the forest often gathered in one place and left after licking the spring water. After tasting, people found that the spring water was salty, and it tasted delicious when mixed with food, so they found that there was salt here.

The traditional production method is followed, and the evaporation solution method is mainly used to dry the salt. First introduce the bittern into the brine storage pool to evaporate the water to a certain extent to form a saturated solution of sodium chloride, then introduce it into the salt field, continue to be exposed to the wind and the sun, and evaporate the water in the bittern until sodium chloride crystals are precipitated, that is, coarse Salt.

Qinghai has a lot of salt since ancient times. In addition to the well-known "mirror of the sky" Chaka Salt Lake, not only the number of salt fields (as many as 29) found in Nangqian, but also spring salt, represented by Baizha Salt Field, the quality of spring brine The highest and the earliest construction time (at least 800 years ago)

In recent years, with the improvement of transportation and the reform of the salt circulation system, Nangqian salt has gradually lost its original "highlight moment" in the market. When passing by, there is no one in the salt field, and there is a small brick building next to the entrance of the river. , surrounded by fragmented fields, a brilliant ocher red in the sun

After passing Baizha Village, the road began to become narrower and narrower, the sunlight was blocked by the towering cliffs, it was dark and mysterious, the water flow was fast, and trees were seen floating on the river from time to time

Walking in it, there is a little anxiety in the excitement. In such an environment, camping is not a wise choice. The sky is getting darker, the more you walk, the more secluded, the mobile phone has no signal, whether to continue walking or stop, I can’t make up my mind for a while

Just like this, in hesitation, he wandered forward, and there was another fork in the road ahead. Fortunately, there was a signpost, and when he saw the sign saying "Tibet", his uneasy heart became a little more stable. However, according to this situation, the dense forest is not necessarily there will be smoke

Seeing the shoal by the river, I thought about camping on the spot. I looked around and camped facing the cliff, with the woods behind me. It was a good camp now, but I passed by in a hurry for some reason.

I missed the campsite, and after turning a corner, a two-story building suddenly appeared in front of me

There was a truck parked next to it, and two people were tidying up the fence around the building. They were hesitating whether to ask for directions. The two stopped what they were doing, looked at me, took off the mineral water on the bottle rack, and looked up. Take a few mouthfuls

Before I could say hello, one of them had already walked in front of the bicycle. The visitor knew a few words of Chinese, and after a few conversations and dancing gestures, I understood what he meant.

First, after passing here, there is no one else, and second, there are bears at night! a person was not safe in the past

I suddenly realized it from the strange behavior he made with his hands on his head, so I was happily taken to an empty room on the second floor and followed him to the residence. Unexpectedly, there was a small shop, and I bought some snacks and instant noodles. , came out with a thermos bottle in hand, took a sip of water from the thermos before going to bed, and felt warm in my heart

Travel record reference:

From Nangqian to Baizha Forest Farm, the mileage is 68 kilometers, the cumulative 240 kilometers, the average speed is 13km/h, the cumulative rise is 564 meters, the altitude range is 3568 meters-4191 meters, the departure time is 9:43; the end time is 18:12, and the exercise time is 5 hour 09 minutes

Today's expenses: 22 yuan

Accommodation: Overnight in Baizha Forest Farm, Meals: Breakfast RMB 14, Shopping: Water and instant noodles RMB 8

References:

The beauty of Yushu, feel the natural scenery

Nangqian Bamai Temple, the Buddhism of Bamai Temple is permanently stationed in the Bodhi Temple

The Nangqian Ashoka Pagoda actually enshrines the Buddha's relic

The Mysterious Ancient Salt Spring--Guangming.com