"My Altay"
"There is a vast wilderness on all sides, and the sky and the earth are pure white. On cloudy days, the whiteness of the world is pure and deep white; on sunny days, it becomes white with shining blue light."
"Above is the sky, dark blue and clear; below is the grassland, a vast expanse of green; the forest is on the right, and the mountains are bullying on the left; the river around is gurgling, running endlessly; the front is the end of the valley, and the back is the other end of the valley. ;My own horses, my own cattle and sheep, and my own camels are silent not far away..."———Li Juan, "My Altay"
I have always wanted to go to Altay described by Li Juan. At the end of 2020, I have not traveled for nearly a whole year. There is always a voice in my heart calling "Let's go, let's go, go see the place you have wanted to go for a long time, go to the north to see the snow."
After buying air tickets, packing my luggage, and meeting friends, everything was ready, and I started my self-driving trip in northern Xinjiang. This is also the first time I went to Xinjiang. Before that, I didn't even know that Xinjiang was divided into southern Xinjiang and northern Xinjiang. Because I was going to Altay and watching the snow, I took the small ring road of self-driving in northern Xinjiang.
travel overview
? Number of people traveling by car: six people in one car
? The whole cost: 2,000 yuan/person for board and lodging, 500 yuan/person for car rental, and 2,500 yuan/person per person in total (excluding major transportation)
10-day route preview
Xinjiang epidemic prevention and security inspection regulations
1. When landing at Xinjiang Airport, you need to show your itinerary code and green health code. You can pass freely without going to medium- and high-risk areas, and you don’t need a nucleic acid test report. The itinerary code reflects that high-risk areas need to be quarantined for 14 days.
2. If you stay in a hotel in Urumqi, the hotel will arrange for you to do a nucleic acid test for free. The detection method is a throat swab.
3. As long as the whole process is across cities and districts, you need to take your ID card to go through the security check and report the itinerary. In some urban areas, nucleic acid testing is mandatory for free before allowing passage.
4. The ID card, itinerary code, and nucleic acid test report (electronic version) must be prepared. They need to be presented when driving across cities and districts. Accommodation also needs to be reported and presented, and handwritten information registration is required.
Pre-trip preparation reference
? As a southerner, you still need to make a lot of preparations to go to a place with minus 20 degrees. Send it out for your reference.
? Clothes and equipment:
1. A three-piece hat, scarf, and gloves (it is recommended to choose a scarf that is brighter than the photo above, and gloves that are waterproof and velvet are better)
2. Next-to-body layer: thick socks, thick bottoming, thermal underwear set (I bought Uniqlo, which is very cost-effective)
3. Warm layer: polar fleece jacket, Uniqlo capsule down jacket, fleece pants
4. Protective layer: very, very thick down jacket (windproof and waterproof against severe cold)
5. Shoes: One pair of snow boots is enough, slippers (if necessary)
? Life equipment:
1. Thin sleeping bag (it can keep warm without touching hotel sheets and quilts)
2. Sunglasses (necessary for driving, concave shape, eye protection)
3. Quick-drying bath towel, hair drying cap, disposable underwear, U-shaped pillow
4. Hair dryer, plug board, thermos cup, warm baby
5. Sunscreen, skin care products, cosmetics, face towels, hand cream, toothbrushes, travel packs, cotton swabs, fresh-keeping bags
6. Backup drugs: ibuprofen, Banlangen, Band-Aid, Jianweixiaoshi Tablets
? Photographic equipment:
Myself: UAV (DJI mini2) Canon g7x3 mobile phone Bluetooth headset
Arrive without any risk [Urumqi]
Because we bought an early flight, our group had already stayed near the departure airport on the evening of the 20th. When we went to the airport to check in, a friend found his ID card left in the hotel, so he hurried back to the hotel to get his ID card and come back again. We meet. Later, his ID card was the focus of our attention during the whole journey. ?After arriving at Urumqi Diwopu International Airport, the suitcase of another companion was taken by another passenger by mistake, and it took half an hour to get her luggage. At this time, my heart was already beating drums, and I felt that the beginning of the trip didn't seem to be going well. Fortunately, there was no danger and they arrived smoothly. jQuery1710514198080994206_1612514745886
The rental car pick-up location is right next to the airport, and after picking up the car, we drove to the hotel we booked. Accommodation in Urumqi is very cheap and cost-effective.
Dinner at night is in a Xinjiang restaurant downstairs.
The first meal must be to try Xinjiang Dapan Chicken, and also ordered shredded sweet potatoes, Kazakh potatoes, etc. It is worth mentioning that the milk tea in Xinjiang is salty, and the aroma of milk and tea is not strong. The taste of the mouth is not very familiar to our group.
After dinner, we took a walk around the surrounding area. We passed several baked naan shops and baked bun shops along the way.
The next morning, we set off to go north. Urumqi didn't intend to stay in Urumqi. Anyway, we came back at the end of the trip. On the first day, we only went to the special market in Urumqi - Xinjiang International Grand Bazaar.
It was nearly eight o'clock after arriving, and the market was deserted and there were no people there. It is recommended that everyone go there a little earlier and it will be more lively. What does Grand Bazaar mean? It is Uighur: it means bazaar, farmer's market.
The market building has a strong Islamic architectural style, which is very characteristic of the Western Regions.
Only when I came here did I know that there are so many types of naan, which can be divided into "oil naan", "shaped naan", "stuffed naan", "faced naan" and so on.
There are also many authentic Xinjiang delicacies and handicraft shops here. It is not bad to buy refrigerator stickers for friends as souvenirs here.
"Mountains but no water" [Tianshan Tianchi]
Speaking of Tianshan Tianchi, everyone may think of Changbai Mountain. In fact, there is also a Tianchi Lake 1.5 hours away from Urumqi.
It is a half-moon-shaped lake on the north side of Bogda Peak in Tianshan Mountains.
Tickets for the scenic spot are free, but you need to take a shuttle bus up the mountain for about 40 minutes. The interval ticket is 60 yuan/person.
After walking up, I looked around for a week and couldn't find the pool water. It turned out that it was snowed and frozen in winter. Footprints are everywhere on the snow. It is recommended to come in spring, summer and autumn, when mountains and rivers stand out.
Walking along the plank road around the lake for half an hour, the cedar forest is more impressive. Very suitable for girls to take pictures.
Tianshan Tianchi is very suitable as the first stop of self-driving in northern Xinjiang. First, the distance is not far and you don’t feel tired. Second, you can adapt to the feeling of the journey and make the whole person more and more in the state of travel.
Encounter the gentle [Crescent Bay]
After leaving Tianshan Tianchi, drive to Gute Desert.
Following the navigation, the car drove more and more sideways, and the sun was about to set again at the right time, so I persuaded my friends not to look for it anymore. The surroundings seemed to be the same for ten miles. Suddenly, I found a large swamp of reeds in front of me. Walking into it was a lake, but it was frozen like Tianchi Lake and covered with snow. The surface of the lake is clean and there is no footprint, presumably no one has been there.
After reading the signs, I realized that it has a nice name-Crescent Bay. In fact, it is not difficult to find, it is just a ten-minute drive from Guhai Hot Spring. I don't know if it's because the winter is bleak and the journey is difficult, but no one has discovered this beautiful place. Like a forgotten corner.
I can't even describe the joy and shock I felt when I saw it. As the sun sets, the reeds sway with the wind, stepping on the snow with one foot deep and one foot shallow, walking towards the reed and watching it sway in the setting sun. The lake in Crescent Bay is frozen, and the snow is covered with no one to set foot on. The whole scene looks gentle and desolate. I think it doesn't need to be appreciated by others, so I quietly welcome the morning and evening in this secluded place, silently and beautifully alone.
After stopping for some time, I no longer thought about going to the Gut Desert, and I feel satisfied seeing this scene today. Crescent Bay, hope to have the opportunity to see you again. I hope no one finds this place, and I hope there will be more life here.
It took ten minutes to drive to the Guhai Hot Spring. It is said that the Guhai Hot Spring is 770 million years old, and the water is rich in trace elements. I stayed at the Guhai Hot Spring Hotel that night, and the hot spring is free. As for the feeling of soaking in hot springs, it is probably "the two heavens of ice and fire". At night, the outdoor temperature is minus 20 degrees, and the hot spring pool is 42 degrees. My hair was frozen and my face was sweating. Thinking about it now is also a painful experience. The next morning, the friends went to soak again without being interested. I didn't want to go, I stayed in my room and sorted out the photos and videos. The temperature in the room is very high because of the floor heating. I don't think it's a problem to wear short sleeves indoors.
Unlock new skills in [Koketohai]
I have never skied before January 24, 2021.
Every winter, it seems that the whole circle of friends is skiing, especially this year. Perhaps because of the epidemic, many people who love to travel cannot go abroad, so they can only find some domestic fun for entertainment.
I have never skied before, and I have always wanted to try it but it was not on the agenda. Suddenly it was arranged.
On the fourth day of the trip, we came out of the hot spring hotel at noon and drove to the Keketuo Sea Area. There is free parking in the scenic area.
Going all the way north, the temperature is getting lower and lower.
The Keketuo Sea Scenic Area is still free of tickets, and even the sightseeing cars are free.
When I got on the sightseeing car, all the people in the car were wearing professional ski equipment. I wondered in my heart, thinking that maybe only a few of us came to see the scenery of Keketuohai in winter. As a result, I was dumbfounded after getting off the car. It was clear that there was only a ski resort. Everyone thinks that they can't do it in vain, so just skating. Buying tickets, renting ski equipment, and renting helmets is 150 yuan per person.
The full name of this ski resort is "Altai Mountain Keketuohai International Ski Resort". The ski resort is divided into primary trails, intermediate trails, and advanced trails. Provide rental equipment, helmets, and ski suits.
It took a lot of effort to put on the ski boots, but with the help of the staff, I managed to get my feet in. The shoes feel heavy and every step is hard.
You only need to take the magic carpet to go up the primary track, and you need to take the cable car to go to other tracks. It takes a minute to slide down, and it takes at least ten minutes to go up. It takes longer to take the cable car.
Because it was the first time to ski, I couldn't even step on the skis during the first lap. Then he kept falling and wobbling, stood up and fell in another posture.
The ski safety officer on the junior course of the ski resort will always help me pick up the scattered ski poles immediately after I fall, with one hand behind my waist and the other hand holding the ski pole, leaning forward slightly, watching That posture made me fantasize in my mind that this is a prince wearing a suit and holding a rose in his hand. Sure enough, people who play a lot will have dreams under any circumstances.
On the second lap, he yelled for help while squatting and sliding down. I don't care about everyone's different eyes. I feel very funny, and you can make up for that kind of scene.
On the third lap, she was able to skate a complete lap like a windy woman. Afterwards, I enjoyed many more laps. After braking with my butt a few times, I finally learned to use the foot brake to stop, which can be regarded as unlocking a new skill. Go home satisfied. In fact, I was a little stunned by the fall, thinking that this is the normal state of the first contact with skiing, so it's fine.
Because it was an arrangement that was not in the plan, I didn't rent a ski suit. Maybe I used my butt to brake all the time, and my clothes got wet. It is recommended that if you have the conditions, it is better to bring your own or rent a set of ski suits. Taking pictures will also look better.
I used to think of the Northeast when I mentioned skiing, but now I think Xinjiang is really a good place. In addition to Keketuohai Ski Resort, Xinjiang also has Jiangjunshan Ski Resort, Urumqi Baiyun International Ski Resort, and Silk Road International Ski Resort. If you come to Xinjiang to ski, don’t dare to say anything else. You can go to Hemu Kanas to see.
[Highway self-driving] More than scenery
All the way to the north, the scenery outside the window always shocked me again and again.
The snow was blown across the road by the wind, rustling. It looks like smog that won't disperse and has a direction, but it's thicker than smog, and it's like white fine sand, which clings to the road and is blown away by the wind.
I don't know the exact names of these trees
Looking at them, I remembered that passage: "If there is an afterlife, I will be a tree, standing forever, without joy or sorrow, half peaceful in the dust and half flying in the wind; very silent and very proud."
I think they may be growing here eternally and firmly.
Passing through a village, I don’t remember the name of that village now, but the animals in the village can’t help laughing every time I think of their curious and blankly looking at us.
There is a nursery rhyme that goes like this: "You didn't say anything to me, you just stared at me"
These cute animals
Keketuohai ends, stay overnight in Beitun. Go to Colorful Beach the next day. The scenic spot of Wucai Beach was not opened due to the epidemic, but some friends still greeted me warmly.
The guide to Colorful Beach says it’s the best place to watch the sunset, but I think it won’t be too brilliant even if you watch it in winter at sunset.
In the twilight snow【Hemu】
It was completely dark when we came to Hemu. I think if you come in the evening, the warm yellow lights of each homestay are on, it may look like Harbin's Snow Town.
The entire village of Hemu Village is made up of small wooden houses, and each small wooden house is either a homestay, a supermarket or a restaurant. Even so, because there is no one in the off-season, it is deserted, and I don't think there is any commercialization. At night, the whole village is very quiet. Hemu in the night seems to have been pressed the pause button. It is a static scene at a glance. Occasionally, when you see a wisp of cooking smoke, or a cat or dog slipping past, you will think about it. Walk in an imaginary world.
I stayed in the third-tier B&B in Hemu at night. I chose this one because I read the reviews that the auntie of the B&B said that the service is kind, and the dinner can also be prepared by the auntie, so you don’t need to bother looking for it.
For dinner, I chose the convenient earthen hot pot, not to mention the taste is really pretty good. The soup base made of bone broth is served on a charcoal hot pot rack, served with farm vermicelli, cabbage, potatoes, and beef, and several people eat it in full swing. If you think it is not enough, you can ask the uncle of the hotel to cook a few home-cooked dishes.
While my friends were still drinking, I got off the table early and wanted to walk around the village in the dark. The snow covered the roofs of every hut, and every step on the snow made a solid sound, and I suddenly thought of my childhood. In my childhood memory, winter is like this, the same deep twilight, the same quiet and cold, stepping on the snow, I feel that I have finally come here, as if I had to come here once.
These families are all at the foot of the snow-capped mountains. I can't help but imagine what their daily life is like.
In fact, there is no need to worry about staying in Hemu and it will be cold at night, as there will be radiators in the room. The biggest problem with the accommodation is the sound insulation, because they are all made of wood, so there is basically no sound insulation effect at all.
Woke up early the next morning, ready to watch the sunrise. It takes about half an hour to walk from the homestay to the Harden viewing platform where you can watch the sunrise. When we were about to leave at 8:30, the uncle at the hotel stared at us and asked us why we were going. We happily said that we were going to watch the sun go out. The uncle said that the sunrise time is ten o'clock, are you going there now? That morning the temperature was about thirty degrees below zero. At this time, they couldn't sleep even after going back to the bed, and they would probably be petrified from the cold when they set out to wait there. Several people simply played poker in the hut.
Walking back to the viewing platform with one foot deep and one foot shallow, the whole sky is dark blue, and the puppy is leading the way excitedly. After passing the Hemu Bridge, a few men stood around with their hands in their sleeves. Seeing us walking and saying 160 yuan per person, I thought it was a ticket fee. I thought I hadn’t heard that there was a fee, so I walked forward After a few steps, they let go and said 100 yuan per person, and I realized that they will take you up by a horse-drawn plow for a fee. I have always thought that I have a good physique, and I categorically refused.
The viewing platform is not high, so you can go up without much effort. There are not many people waiting to watch the sunrise, so not many people are disappointed. Because I waited and waited until the sunrise. But it's still beautiful overall. The whole Hemu Village is in my lens. I hold the camera and shoot left and right.
[Kanas] will come again at least three times
I don’t know what everyone’s habits are. Whether it’s reading a movie or traveling, if I’ve watched it once, I basically don’t go to it a second time, and I basically don’t go to a place I’ve been to a second time. So I always try my best to make my trip without regrets. But this time I came to Kanas, I think my habits have been subverted. Kanas is the place I decided to go at least three times. Once in spring, once in summer, and once in autumn. But maybe after watching its four seasons, I still feel that it is not enough.
Starting from Hemu, you can drive for 2 hours to reach Kanas Scenic Area. If you have enough time, you can go to Jiadengyu first. I was thinking about Kanas, so I didn't stop at Jiadengyu.
Kanas is divided into new villages and old villages. The new villages are basically homestays, while the old villages have more restaurants and supermarkets.
When we arrived in Kanas, we were not in a hurry to go to the B&B to settle down. We went to Shenxian Bay first before it was too late.
I want to say that the name is very good, such a fairyland, what is it called if it is not called Shenxian Bay.
There are three "bays" in Kanas, namely Shenxian Bay, Wolong Bay and Moon Bay. These three scenic spots are next to each other and can be visited together. If you look at the morning fog in the morning, the first choice is Shenxian Bay. Kanas Lake is not yet completely frozen, the lake is gurgling, covered with snow, the birch forest is lush in the snow, and the morning fog rises slowly in the sun.
Tuva village [Baihaba]
After going to Hemu and Kanas, the last place I miss is Baihaba Village.
This is a border village, known as "the first village in the Northwest", located on the banks of the Haba River, the border river between China and Kazakhstan. It is a village with the highest concentration of Tuva people in the Altay region, and the most complete village inhabited by Tuva people, with a strong Tuva style.
This village is 1 hour's drive from Kanas. The whole village is very small, and it doesn't take 1 hour to walk from the village head to the village tail. Although small, there are also homestays, catering supermarkets, etc.
jQuery17109375631879589039_1612516085625 Here I want to emphasize that you need to apply for a border defense card when you come to Baihaba, and you can apply for it at the police station in the Kanas scenic spot with your ID card. It is free to apply for a border defense card, and no photo is required.
jQuery171011885632520901823_1612516256604 There was a China-Kazakhstan boundary marker here before, where tourists could check in and take pictures. I don’t know when it disappeared, and tourists were not allowed to go there. Because of the border, drones are not allowed to fly here.
Standing tall and looking at Baihaba, it looks somewhat similar to Hemu and Kanas. But it's more primitive. It's slow and quiet here, as if forgotten.
If one day I want to escape the city, I will choose to come here. Basking in the sun, killing time, undisturbed, slowly immersed in the flow of time.
[Devil Castle] Castle blown out by the wind
After leaving Baihaba, I already felt that this trip to northern Xinjiang was complete. The rest of the journey is the icing on the cake.
According to the route of the small ring road in northern Xinjiang, we return to Burqin, then pass through Karamay, Dushanzi District and return to Urumqi.
Between Burqin and Karamay, there is another Yardang landform scenic spot - World Devil City. Because I didn't go to Wucai Beach, I had more expectations for it.
This is a typical Yadan landform area, which was selected as the first place among the "Three Most Beautiful Yadans in China" by "China National Geographic" "Beauty Pageant China". Movies such as "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" and "Heroes of Heaven and Earth" have chosen Devil City as their location.
Tickets for this attraction are still free (I feel like I have earned 100 million after this trip)
The entire scenic spot is a circular route, and you need to take a shuttle bus for the whole journey. The shuttle bus will stop at four sightseeing spots for about ten minutes for tourists to go down for sightseeing and take pictures. I didn't have time to enjoy the scenery. Every time I got out of the car, I turned on the drone in a panic. After a few minutes, everyone got on the car, and I was embarrassed not to get on the car. I always feel that something is not enough.
The best time to watch is at sunset in the evening, when the afterglow of the setting sun shines red on the land of Devil City, which is quite spectacular and gorgeous. (Although I couldn't stay until the evening, but is it true to see the publicity picture in the bathroom?)
【Karamay】Fall in love with "Pilaf"
On the eighth night, I stayed in Karamay, and I finally didn't feel so cold when I came here. Hands can even be taken out without gloves for three minutes.
Now when I think of Karamay, apart from knowing that Karamay is a city named after oil, I only remember the hand-picked rice.
The pilaf is steamed with lamb chops, served with fresh and sweet yellow radish, carrots, raisins, and dried apricots, which is very appetizing.
It wasn't enough to eat the night before, and I had to eat again before departure the next day, even if I waited for a full hour.
Thinking that if you come here, you can’t eat a hand-picked meal and leave, so I drove to see the Karamay Big Oil Bubble Sculpture.
Karamay Big Oil Bubble Sculpture is located in the Petroleum Memorial Square of Ke No. 1 Well Scenic Area. Its design is inspired by the oil bubbles overflowing from the oil pool of Heiyou Mountain. It is now a landmark sculpture in Karamay. There is free parking in the square and there was no one else but us. This sculpture is made of stainless steel and looks very modern.
Duku starting point【Dushanzi Grand Canyon】
Duku Highway is known as "the most beautiful highway in China". Due to natural factors such as snowfall and icing in mountainous areas in winter, it is only open for five months a year, and the opening time is probably from May to October. I plan to wait until autumn to come to Xinjiang to drive the Duku Highway by myself.
It is not yet possible to make a trip, but it will pass through its starting point, Dushanzi District. There is a Dushanzi Grand Canyon in Dushanzi District. It is a canyon landform. It has been featured in National Geographic Magazine as the first scene of Duku Highway, the most beautiful road in the country, and it is also the filming location for the TV series "Kyushu Misty Records" and the movie "Flying Life".
It was a coincidence that the visibility was too low, I couldn't tell if it was fog or something, maybe it was the wrong season. I can't shoot a very clear effect, but I feel quite shocked.
【Encounter】in the journey
In addition to those scenic spots on this trip, the scenery encountered along the way is enough to make my heart move.
When I stopped to refuel, I looked back and saw a beautiful sunset
I like this gentle tone
Take a photo with a police dog from Guangzhou Tianhe, its name is "Kobe"
Encountered a very cute fox who came to beg for food
Xinjiang, there will be [goodbye]
When we return to Urumqi, we will still stay in the hotel where we came, and we will still go to the restaurant on the first day for dinner. By the way, I lamented to my friends that time flies so fast, and the ten-day journey has come to an end in the blink of an eye. I don’t think it’s enough. I’m still reminiscing about the beautiful scenery of Hemu in Kanas, but I think it’s enough. More than 3,000 photos and more than 300 videos from mobile phones, cameras, and drones are really sufficient.
After I go back, I will read "My Altay" again. I think the feeling of reading this book will be different before and after seeing Altay.
Finally - self-driving tips
1. Car rental: It is very convenient to rent a car in Xinjiang. You can pick up the car directly at the airport and return the car at the airport. The cost of renting a car is about 300-500 yuan per day.
2. Chartered car: If you don't want to drive by yourself, you can directly find a master to charter a car. The cost is 200 yuan/day more expensive than renting a car.
3. Self-driving safety: There is no problem in the whole self-driving this time, and I feel that the snowy road is not so difficult to drive. Those with 3-5 years of driving experience can rest assured to drive by themselves.
4. Speeding problem: It is very troublesome to deal with speeding violations in Xinjiang. If you choose to drive by yourself, try to choose high speed throughout the journey. National highways are all section speed, the speed limit is 80.
——What to eat in Xinjiang
1. Dapanji: After eating a few Dapanji, I feel that each one tastes different, and the best one is the one in Xinjiang.
2. Mutton skewers: For me who doesn't eat barbecue, there is no difference. Every one tastes the same.
3. Shredded sweet potato: Although it is not a Xinjiang dish, it is really delicious. Dip it in cold water and put it in your mouth. The crispy icing on the outside is paired with the soft sweet potato inside. One word: Absolutely!
4. Nang pit meat: Although the taste is very good, the oil content is very unfriendly to girls.
5. Meatball Soup: Really delicious! Highly recommended! No family will pull weeds.
6. Beef and mutton: When you come to Xinjiang, you have to eat meat! Eat these to have the strength to resist the severe cold.
7. Xiyuchun yogurt: It really tastes different from other yogurts. As for the difference, you have the opportunity to drink it and try it.
last of the last
If you have any other questions, please send me a private message.
👀I will reply when I see it
hope this helps.
