The story begins with aid to Tibet
Tibet in the sky, snow-covered plateau, there is always a kind of mystery, which makes people yearn for.
In the incense mist of the Red Wall Scripture Hall, it is the firm belief of the pilgrims;
The snow-capped mountains piled with jade and jade protect countless living beings and save all living beings;
In the life described by Cangyang Gyatso, he traveled around mountains and rivers to Buddhist pagodas, just to meet you on the way;
The blue sky cleans the eyes, and the white clouds sweep away the disturbance, like floating clouds.
But behind all the romantic fantasies, the real life is embarrassing.
The darkness and savagery of the slavery period is shocking, and life here was once poor and backward.
Thanks to the perseverance and selfless dedication of several generations of aid to Tibet,
In today's Tibet, an oasis is irrigated with snow mountain water,
There is also a spirit called Everest spirit circulating here.
I have been to Tibet six times, and entered the Tibetan area more than ten times. The Tibetan area is so big that I can never forget Shigatse.
My fate with Shigatse started from the university backpacking trip.
In my junior year, when I was hiking in Meili Snow Mountain, I ran into a boy who was about my age with two children of six or seven years old. I thought it was brothers and sisters who came to play. After chatting, I found out that he was from Zhejiang Medical University. A current student at the university, who took a break from school and came here to teach.
I asked him, are you going to go back later or stay here?
He said that the city does not lack a doctor for him, but the children here lack a teacher for him.
In my senior year, I filled out the application form for supporting education in Tibet, and the destination was Shigatse, which is also one of the cities that Shanghai partnered with.
It’s a pity that it didn’t come true in the end. That year was the first time I came to Tibet. After arriving in Lhasa, the first stop was Shigatse to see where I wanted to teach.
Shigatse ten years ago was different from the remote villages I imagined in my mind. Thanks to the efforts of the first few groups of Tibetan aiders, it has the size of a city, but the remote villages are still difficult. Travelers can only take the route from Shigatse to Mount Everest. The road conditions are poor, the board and lodging are poor, and there is no water or electricity in winter. It is really that the eyes are in heaven and the body is in hell.
Ten years later, I was fortunate to come to Shigatse again. This time, I participated in a project of Ctrip Group and Shanghai to aid Tibet. The trip to explore the secrets of the Mount Everest Ring Road can be regarded as fulfilling my dream of aiding Tibet for many years.
Houzang Shigatse at the foot of Mount Everest
In the southwestern border of China, there is a river valley area of 182,000 square kilometers, which borders Nepal, India, and the border line is 1,753 kilometers long. This is the Tibet Shigatse area.
In Shigatse, lakes and marshes are criss-crossed, fertile and wild fields are abundant, grasslands are vast and deserted, birds and rare animals live freely, famous temples and ancient temples are surrounded by cigarettes, and there is even the world's highest peak, Mount Everest.
Shigatse is like a magnificent epic, deep and vast, vast and heavy.
This time, the Everest Loop Exploration Tour is centered on the top of the world, Shigatse, five counties, and Mount Everest. Use the Mt. Everest Ring Road to connect the city of Shigatse, and the five counties of Lazi, Sakya, Tingri, Yadong, and Gyantse, to explore the natural ecology of the Shigatse area, and to travel around the theme of intangible cultural heritage.
On this way, we deeply explored the Shigatse area,
Approaching the center of Houzang, the city of Shigatse, which has a strong cultural heritage, prays for blessings at the Tashilhunpo Monastery in the center of the center;
Through the torrent of history, come to the ancient town of Zhenjiangzi, visit the imprint of the Red River, and feel the tragic battle;
Behind the turbulent waves of highland barley and wheat, and behind the 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains soaring into the clouds, is Yadong, a worldly paradise;
At the southern foot of the Himalayas, there are dense forests, sufficient oxygen, and a secret place that few people have set foot in. The Rongjiagou is in the depths;
In the rich highland barley wine and the scent of butter tea, visit the only teahouse in the cloud town on the China-Nepal border;
The continuous snow-capped mountains and meandering rivers give birth to the Dingjie wetland with rich water and grass in the Houzang area;
The peak of this trip, the height of life, the sacred coordinate that countless people yearn for, Mount Everest;
Finally, visit the most precious snow-covered treasure in Shigatse, Lazi Duixie, Tibet's intangible cultural heritage,
There are also treasure hunters who protect these treasures, and groups of selfless and dedicated Tibetan aiders.
ready to go! Take you to explore Shigatse together!
Day1 Shigatse, pilgrimage to pray
The first stop of the trip came to the center of Houzang, the city of Shigatse with a strong cultural heritage, at an altitude of 3,800 meters.
If Shigatse is the center of Tibet, then the Tashilhunpo Monastery, located on the Niseri Mountain in the west of the city, is the center of this center.
Tashilhunpo Monastery, meaning "Auspicious Sumeru Temple", is the largest temple in the Shigatse area. In the 12th year of the orthodox Ming Dynasty, Gendun Lord, a disciple of Tsongkhapa, built it. The fourth Panchen Lama, Luosang Choji Gyaltsen, expanded it. Tashilhunpo Monastery is comparable to the Potala Palace. It is related to the "three major temples" in Lhasa
Ganden Monastery, Sera Monastery and Drepung Monastery are collectively known as the "Four Great Monasteries" of the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The four major temples, Kumbum Monastery in Qinghai and Labrang Monastery in Gansu are listed as the "Six Great Temples" of the Gelug Sect. The architectural structure also deeply influenced other Tibetan Buddhist buildings such as Wudangzhao. Tashilhunpo Monastery is one of the six famous Yellow Sect monasteries in China.
The Tashilhunpo Monastery is built on Niseri Mountain. After buying a ticket from the entrance of the gate, you enter the monastery and climb up the stairs, and you can't help but gasp. Shigatse is 200 meters higher than Lhasa, so you have to walk slowly.
TIPS: Tickets for Tashilhunpo Monastery can only be purchased in cash at the entrance.
The Tashilhunpo Monastery must not miss the Tashilhunpo Hall. The Tashilhunpo Hall is the earliest building in Tashilhunpo Monastery. It is the place where the Panchen Lama gave lectures to the monks in the temple and the monks debated the scriptures. It can accommodate 2,000 people to chant scriptures. There is a statue of Sakyamuni in the hall, and there are standing statues of Gendun Lord and the Fourth Panchen Lama on both sides. On both sides of the main hall are the Maitreya Hall and the Tara Hall, which preserve the precious Panchen Lama Pagoda Hall and the body of Tibetan relics.
Here we are very lucky to meet a grand Dharma meeting in the main hall, chant scriptures and pray for blessings, and pray for all the best in the future!
I found out later that the day before we came to Tashilhunpo Monastery, the 11th Panchen Lama arrived at Tashilhunpo Monastery. Surrounded by a 100-meter-long welcome queue, the 11th Panchen Lama entered the Tsochen Hall where we are now, surrounded by a guard of honor.
It turned out that this grand ceremony was to welcome the Eleventh Panchen Lama. Under the guidance of the guard of honor of Baosan and Baozhu, the Eleventh Panchen Lama paid homage to the main Buddhist halls of Tashilhunpo Monastery one by one. Every time I go to a Buddhist temple, I will read scriptures, sprinkle highland barley, and pray for a good harvest and peace for the country and the people.
It was a great blessing to be in the same monastery as the 11th Panchen Lama on the first day of the trip! And bless us for a smooth journey.
There is a special museum in the urban area of Shigatse, the Stone Carving Art Museum, which is also the only stone carving museum in Tibet.
There are a large number of stone carvings all over the Houzang area. It is not easy to take a look at these precious arts. They are scattered in the depths of Houzang and are widely distributed. In the Stone Carving Museum, you can see the authentic works and one-to-one replicas of these stone carving art with your own eyes, which is rare and precious.
These exquisite stone carvings integrate historical, artistic and scientific values, and are a way to understand the excellent traditional culture of the nation. Here is a collection of a large number of exquisite Tibetan stone carvings from the 7th century to the 19th century, including more than 60 related stone carvings and various rubbings of Tibet.
Shigatse Stone Carving Art Museum has two floors, with a construction area of about 450 square meters. The museum currently has more than 100 pieces of cultural relics in its collection, including various types of stone tablets, stone carvings, and statue tablets unearthed in recent years. Among them, the number of stone carvings in Tibet from the 15th century to the 19th century is the most.
Most of the stone carvings in Tibet are carved on stone slabs and cliffs, which are being destroyed by nature and man-made, and are decreasing day by day. The video of the museum shows the process of the researcher’s on-the-spot exploration and protection of stone carvings. It is difficult and difficult. Although this is not a large-scale museum, it is the hard work of every contributor to the protection and inheritance of stone carving art. I hope that Tibetan stone carving art will be included in Chinese culture. Continue the legacy.
On the first floor, there is also a sculpture site that simulates stone carvings, and there is a multimedia playback area next to it. It uses animation to tell the history behind the stone carvings, which is too attentive.
The second floor is the work exhibition area, where you can experience rubbings yourself. I didn’t expect that looking at simple rubbings would require years of skilled labor. If it is too heavy, it will fail. I also tried rubbings.
First lay a layer of rice paper on the stone carving, spray a small amount of water, and use a brush to stick the paper to the stone slab. If there is too much water or too much force in this step, the rice paper will break. If there is not enough water, subsequent patterns cannot be printed on it.
The second step of dyeing is to use this special tool to dip in the ink and tap it on the rice paper several times quickly.
Since there is not enough time to wait for the water to dry, too wet will cause the ink to smear, and my rubbings will become very freehand and dreamy, haha. The rubbing experience on the second floor is highly recommended to try.
The dinner on the first day in Shigatse was enjoyed at the well-known Fengsheng Tibetan restaurant in the local area. As soon as you entered the door, you were attracted by the authentic Tibetan-style decoration. There was a strong smell of ghee in the air. There were singing and dancing performances here every day. As a local Tibetan, it is worth trying authentic Tibetan food if you come to Tibet for the first time.
I ordered the special dishes here, Tibetan steamed stuffed bun, finger lamb, Tibetan hot pot, Tibetan chicken soup, fried beef, and Tibetan dessert. . .
I still like the Tibetan chicken soup here the most, especially with the addition of matsutake and various Tibetan medicines. I feel that after a bowl, the high fever will be much better. The quality of lamb and beef in Tibet is also quite good. If you like meat, don’t miss it. However, the most authentic Tibetan food here must have raw beef. If you like beef, don’t miss it.
Day 2 Gyantse, Red River imprint
At the northern foot of the Himalayas, on the upper reaches of the Nianchu River, a tributary of the Yarlung Zangbo River, Gyantse, an important historical town in the Houzang area, is 3,900 meters above sea level. The city of Gyantse has a history of 600 years. It used to be prosperous in industry and commerce, and the Baiju Temple was established in the Yuan Dynasty. Therefore, Gyantse is famous in Tibet. It is also the third largest town in the history of Tibet, linking the hub of Tibet and Tibet.
Gyantse also has a heroic historical story:
In 1904, when the British imperialists invaded Tibet, the people of Gyantse defied violence and defended the country with blood, composing a heroic and tragic patriotic hymn. Since then, Gyantse has become famous both at home and abroad as the "City of Heroes".
In front of Gyantse Zongshan stands the Monument to Heroes, which is also a must-see for every tourist who comes to Gyantse.
The Anti-British Site of Gyantse is on the Gyantse Zong Mountain behind the monument. This is also the best angle to overlook the panorama of Gyantse.
There is a small museum at the entrance of Dengzong Mountain, which introduces the history of Gyantse and the past meeting hall.
Zongshan is built close to the mountain, with different heights. The buildings include forts, bunkers and city walls. It is the highest point in the whole city. Zongshan under the blue sky and white clouds is very majestic.
Standing at the highest point of Zongshan Mountain, you can overlook Gyantse County 360 degrees, and it is amazing to look over the railing. I came to Gyantse ten years ago. At that time, it was just a small county, surrounded by dilapidated houses. Now there are rows of high-rise buildings, neat streets, and constant traffic. The changes in the past ten years have been too great, with each passing day. Here life is getting better and better.
On the other side of the county seat are green mountains and green waters, highland barley and wheat waves, and Gyantse is indeed the pastoral pastoral of the Houzang area.
Zongshan is also the best angle to overlook Baiju Temple. It is not allowed to fly drones in Baiju Temple, and the view from Zongshan also makes up for the regret of not being able to overlook it.
The most important thing to miss when you come to Gyantse is this Baiju Temple with a history of 600 years. Baiju Temple is built on the mountain, surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing water on all sides. It is a monastery where the Sakya, Shalu and Gelug sects of Tibetan Buddhism coexist. Architectural style. There are temples in the pagoda, and there are pagodas in the temple. The temples and pagodas are naturally integrated and complement each other. The building fully represents the typical style of temple architecture in the Houzang area from the end of the 13th century to the middle of the 15th century.
There are 108 doors and 76 real Buddha halls. The door lintels are decorated with extremely exquisite reliefs of elephants, lions and flying dragons. There are various Buddha statues inside. There are more than 100,000 Buddha statues and nearly 1,000 murals, so it is also called "100,000 Buddha Pagodas".
Going around the temple clockwise, every angle is beautiful. Many believers come here to pray for blessings.
TIPS: To enter the tower, an additional 10 yuan shooting license fee is required for shooting.
At noon, we came to Gyantse Red River Valley Ecological Agriculture Sightseeing Park and saw a rare garden in Gyantse.
It is located in the must-pass of the entire tourist route around Mt. Everest. Relying on the unique natural environment advantages of Gyantse and the technical support of Shanghai Pudong Agricultural Development Group, it provides local residents with a variety of new living spaces, and at the same time provides a place for domestic and foreign tourists to travel around the Pearl River Delta. Fengyou provides an important distribution center, driving the local and surrounding areas to move from traditional agriculture to modern agriculture.
The Red River Valley Eco-Agricultural Sightseeing Park has four major tourism functional areas. One is to expand the interactive area, including a racetrack, children's outdoor playground, and rose garden; the other is the picking experience area, a smart greenhouse, where you can experience vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, watermelons, and strawberries. etc.; the third is the popular science sightseeing area, including plateau Tibetan medicine, plant cultivation center, horticultural science popularization landscape, etc.; the fourth is the supporting area for accommodation, plateau ecological restaurants, Linka tents, and RV campsites.
On the plateau, it is too difficult to grow green plants and food naturally, but in the Red River Valley Ecological Agriculture Sightseeing Park, it seems to be back in the fields in the south of the Yangtze River. All kinds of vegetables, fruits, flowers and plants are carefully cultivated in the greenhouse, which is really amazing .
There are tomato gardens and cucumber gardens in the greenhouse, which provide picking experience. You must know that almost all the fruits and vegetables in Tibet are transported from all provinces in the country. Vegetables are rarely produced locally. I did not expect to eat fresh cucumbers and tomatoes in Gyantse, which is very refreshing.
At noon, we dined in the plateau ecological restaurant here. The whole restaurant seems to be built in the garden, with small bridges and flowing water, full of greenery. This is not only a restaurant, but also a pleasant place to enjoy in the plateau.
Fresh vegetables and fruits in the greenhouse are naturally indispensable for lunch. The watermelon, cucumber, and tomato are all crisp and delicious. For a moment, I forgot that I was on a plateau at an altitude of 4,000 meters, as if I had returned to Jiangnan.
The most recommended is the hand-caught mutton here. It uses the best Tibetan mutton, which has no smell, and has also improved the traditional Tibetan cooking method. The whole hand-caught mutton is soft and elastic.
Cold boneless chicken feet, spicy and crispy, the first choice for cold appetizers.
God! I actually ate shrimp on the plateau! I have to say that this restaurant is very suitable for the tastes of Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai, and it is a five-star praise.
Finally, you must pack a piece of air-dried yak meat. It is no exaggeration to say that I have eaten a lot of air-dried yak meat in Tibetan areas. This is the best air-dried yak meat I have ever eaten. It costs 140 yuan per kilogram and the price is fair.
In the evening, I experienced RV accommodation. I just went on a RV trip in Tibet with my friends last month. I suffered from the fact that there is no RV campsite in Tibet. I didn’t expect that there is a RV campsite in Gyantse. The trailer-type RV has quite a lot of space, no less than a standard hotel room. For self-driving tours, it is a very special travel experience to come to an RV. The weather here is good at night and it is also a good place to watch the stars.
This is still an oxygen-supplied caravan, with a separate bathroom inside, a small living room after entering the door, and a bedroom inside, which is very comfortable.
At night, you can also pass Linka in the Linka tent in the park. Linka in Tibet is like our picnic. There is a barbecue campfire here, and you can come here to experience the local Linka.
Day3 Yadong, a natural escape
Behind the turbulent waves of highland barley and wheat, and behind the 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains soaring into the clouds, there is Yadong, a fairyland in the world. The forest is dense here, and the altitude of Yadong County is only 3,000 meters. Healed the high rebellion of our group.
Yadong is a border county. It was not open to tourists ten years ago. Now relying on the global tourist route around Mount Everest, the beauty of Yadong can also enter the public's field of vision. The natural scenery here is beautiful. It is known as the southern part of Tibet and is full of passion. Wrong, Pali Grassland, Zhuomulari Snow Mountain, Lower Yadong Primeval Forest, Kangbu Hot Spring, Dongga Temple, and Gaju Temple are also well-known in the Houzang area.
From Gyantse to Yadong, it takes about three hours to drive. The scenery along the way is magnificent. When you make a turn, you can see the blue sky and white clouds, snow-capped mountains and lakes. This clear and clear lake was originally Chongba Yumco in the south of Kangma County. It is a modern glacier in the Himalayas. The glacial lake formed by the movement is also one of the sources of the Nianchu River, known as the "tears of angels".
The altitude here is relatively high, 4540 meters, and it is still in the original ecology. It has not been developed into a scenic spot, and it is a little-known niche scenic spot. At that time, there were only a few friends in our company. During the trip in Yadong, we rarely saw tourists. This is a niche destination worth visiting.
Driving forward for half an hour, I came to the most beautiful fault in Yadong, the passionate fault. This is an alpine lake with few people. It is full of love on sunny days, the blue sky and white clouds are intertwined, the snow-capped mountains and the lake are reflected, and migratory birds migrate and stay here.
The nearby Kangchengda Snow Mountain and the distant Zhuomulari Snow Mountain are shining brightly, and the clear lake water reflects the snow mountain in it, which is too beautiful to behold. In the ancient mythology of Tibet, Zhuomulari Snow Peak and Duoqingcuo are known as holy mountains and holy lakes. When local people pass by the holy mountains, they will offer white hada and highland barley wine to pray for the blessing of the gods.
There are too many beautiful lakes in Tibet. I lament the passion of Yadong, which is no less than that of Namtso and Yamdrok.
I didn’t have time to get a 600 lens, so I don’t know if it’s a bar-headed goose or a black-necked crane. It looks like a black-necked crane!
If it is in summer, the pasture grass is abundant by the Duoqingcuo Lake, and various wild flowers are blooming on the meadow. It was autumn at the end of September, and the grass by the lake turned yellow.
On the way to Yadong County, the altitude plummets. Yadong Tibetan means "the deep valley of the rapids of the swirling valley". Yadong Valley is a valley sandwiched between two mountains. The scenery is very similar to the scenery along the road in Danba, western Sichuan. It has beautiful mountains and clear waters, a mild climate, abundant water sources, and rich products. It is known as "Little Jiangnan in Tibet".
It’s almost evening when I came to Yadong, the clouds and mist are entwined in the mountains, the dense forest is full of greenery, and I have come to Zhangjiajie. Take a deep breath, enough oxygen, and walk a lot faster!
The residential buildings in Yadong Town are built with stone blocks and logs, which is unique. The folk customs here are simple and the ecology is intact. Walking into this village, I chatted with the locals about their lives. Thanks to poverty alleviation efforts, Yadong got rid of poverty a few years ago. In addition, there are rich products here. The locals said that if you want to live better, you should do more work. There are treasures on the mountain and on the ground, coupled with government subsidies for farming, every family has lifted themselves out of poverty and lived a moderately prosperous life.
There is another delicacy in Yadong that I have to mention, salmon! Yadong salmon is a specialty here. The salmon here is different from other places. It only grows in clean and low-temperature alpine rivers above 3,000 meters above sea level. The high-quality water source and environment in Yadong make the salmon here plump, tender, thornless The fishy smell, high protein and low cholesterol, will make your mouth water. When we arrived at the first stop in Yadong, we came to Yadong Salmon Breeding Base to visit.
In each of these blue vats, there are only one-year-old salmon, about ten centimeters in length. The salmon here grow very slowly, at least until they are three years old before they can be served on the table, and the cost of cultivation is very high.
Here is a three-year-old salmon. It takes three years to grow so big. Therefore, Yadong salmon is expensive. A catty of salmon costs 200 yuan from the factory, 300 yuan in a local restaurant, and 500 yuan a catty in Lhasa. , The local area in Yadong can successfully get rid of poverty, and the industry represented by salmon has played an important role.
Datong here is a mature salmon. We also experienced parent-child fishing. Unexpectedly, salmon swims very fast and is difficult to catch. It requires not only strength but also skill.
We caught three salmon and brought them to the restaurant to cook~
In the evening, I came to a Sichuan restaurant with a good reputation recommended by a friend. I cooked salmon three times, steamed salmon, sauerkraut salmon, and spicy salmon. The taste was so delicious.
After I came back, I couldn’t forget the deliciousness of Yadong salmon. It’s a pity that I can rarely eat Yadong salmon in Shanghai.
I strongly recommend this Yadong Fly Restaurant, which can’t be found on the Internet, and the Shanyerenjia restaurant. The dishes are so delicious, especially the rabbit head, I can finish it in a pot! The restaurant that arrives after nine o'clock still has to line up and have no seats.
Day4 Yadong, the fairy house outside the world
In the morning, we drove for more than an hour, crossed the mountains, and came to a north-south strip with an altitude of more than 4,000 meters. There are basically no crops here, but it has become an excellent alpine wetland and grassland. The hillside is basically covered with green. This is Yadong. A small otherworldly town in the eastern part of the county, Parry.
The morning sun shines on the Pali Grassland, which is full of rapeseed flowers, and not far away is the Zhuomulari Snow Mountain with an altitude of 7,314 meters.
Unexpectedly, at the end of September, the Pali Grassland in Yadong was actually blooming with flowers, which was later than the rapeseed flowers in Qinghai Lake. The large sea of flowers was particularly beautiful under the cover of snow-capped mountains. Many people thought that after seeing the pictures I posted In Switzerland lol.
The Pali Grassland in Yadong is also one of the "most plump" grasslands in Tibet. In midsummer, there will be a lot of colorful flowers blooming on the grassland.
Not far away, Zhuomulari Snow Mountain is one of the seven fairies in the folklore of Yadong County, which is juxtaposed with Mount Everest. The mountain is steep and 7,734 meters above sea level. Zhuomulari Snow Mountain is also known as Goddess Peak. The top of Zhuomulari Snow Mountain is covered with snow all the year round. No one has conquered this snow mountain so far.
There is a very rich meadow grassland growing on the valley slopes of the Pali grassland. The root system of the pasture grass here is very strong, and the root systems in pieces are entangled together, forming a huge grass felt like a carpet. Stepping on this grassland When it is time, it will feel soft and elastic.
It is said that the yaks and sheep living in the Pali Grassland drink mineral water and eat Cordyceps. One can imagine how delicious the yaks and mutton here are!
There is a mysterious temple in Yadong, Dongga Temple. In the jungle of temples that are as numerous as stars in Tibet, this small temple hidden in the wilderness is not surprising.
However, in Yadong, a remote border town, all the history has become extremely mysterious because of the existence of Dongga Temple.
In the spring of 1951, Dalai Lama was negotiating with the central government, and he ran to Yadong with a small number of entourages, and lived in this humble Dongga Temple for eight months. There is a saying that Dalai Lama had already prepared for the breakdown of the negotiations. If the negotiations failed, he was ready to cross the border and flee to India at any time. After long and arduous negotiations, we finally accepted the "17 Articles" of the central government... Everyone knows the final outcome, and Dongga Temple has also become a witness of this important history.
At the prayer flags of Dongga Temple, you can admire Yadong City from a high place. Among the majestic and magnificent Himalayas, a small border town has risen. The small Jiangnan Yadong in Tibet is the junction of Nepal, India, and is also a gathering point of multi-ethnic culture and border trade.
We came to the border between China and Bhutan. Yadong is only 58 kilometers away from the capital, and you can leave the country with one foot. Therefore, the border jurisdiction here is relatively strict, and you need to apply for a border town before you can come here.
On the way to the border, there is a meadow full of mountains, which is also part of the Pali grassland.
This picture belongs to the scenery. There are no cattle and sheep on the other side, but our side is full of goats and sheep, but the grass seems to be more abundant without cattle and sheep.
Overlook~
The special border line is the mani pile piled up by the locals. After passing here, you will leave the border line.
Day5 finalized, wetland kingdom
Tibet is rich in water systems, and it is known as the Kingdom of Wetlands due to the settlement of the Houzang area. The continuous snow-capped mountains and meandering rivers breed wetlands with rich water and grass. It is also a habitat and breeding ground for migratory birds such as black-necked cranes, ruddy shelducks, and bar-headed geese.
Overlooking from the wetland, you can also see Lhotse Peak, the fourth highest peak in the world, with an altitude of 8516 meters, but today there are a little more clouds, Lhotse Peak only reveals the tip of the snow mountain, and the opposite of Lhotse Peak is Nepal.
The road from Yadong to Dingjie is like an oil painting, snow-capped mountains and grasslands, nourishing the Dingjie Wetland. Dingjie means "growing out of the bottom of the water" in Tibetan. Dingjie County, which has 440,000 mu of wetland, is a veritable "wetland kingdom". This wetland breeds flocks of bar-headed geese, red shelducks, and plateau red-billed gulls... It is a famous bird paradise in Shigatse.
However, many years ago, there was a big contradiction between wetland protection and mass grazing. In the former Dingjie wetland, random digging of turf, private construction of sheep pens on the wetland, and burning of turf for heating in winter occasionally occurred. Not many survival problems were solved, but the wetlands were destroyed and the birds stopped coming. Today, the government is vigorously protecting wetlands, and protecting wetlands is to protect the diversity of species on the earth. Actively explore new models of wetland ecological and economic development, give full play to the functional and economic benefits of wetlands, and promote the integrated development of wetland protection and utilization.
Next to Dingjie County, under the Himalayas, there is a stunning ground crack, Qilin Gorge. On a plateau of 5,000 meters, stone forest canyons are rare.
Here is like a huge and deep scar on the earth, we are all shocked by this natural wonder! There is white snow in the distance, and the Dingjie Wetland is nearby, and the originally flat ground in front of you seems to have been deeply cut by a huge axe, and the strange rocks in it form a spectacular "Stone Forest" style.
Standing in front of the Grand Canyon, I feel the insignificance of human beings and the grandeur of nature.
Stone Forest has now been developed into a scenic spot, and you can navigate to it by searching for Qilin Gorge. Due to its remote location, few tourists come, and it is still a very small destination. If you like natural wonders, you must not miss it.
DAY6 Rongju, the secret place in the deep mountains
Not far from the viewing platform of Lhotse Peak in Dingjie Wetland, there is an undulating desert, but on the other side of the road is a wetland. The scenery seen on both sides of a road is completely different. It reminds the world of the importance of protecting the environment. This desert is also Actively doing sand fixation work, for tourists, this place is very special and exquisite.
In addition to the wetland Qilin Snow Mountain, Dingjie also has the highest Guandi Temple in the world, the Qomolangma Guandi Temple. This Guandi Temple was built 200 years ago.
When I walked to the Guandi Temple, I couldn't help wondering why there was a Guandi Temple in the land of Tibetan Buddhism.
It turned out that during the Qianlong period, the Gurkha army invaded Houzang and plundered wantonly. The Qingchuan army defeated the Kuo army and built the Guandi Temple in Tingri Gangga Mountain in order to bless China! ! The battle is smooth! ! It also witnessed the history of the Chinese nation working together to fight against foreign invasion of Tibet and maintain the unity of the motherland.
As time went by, the Guandi Temple was also seriously damaged. Until September 2018, it was rebuilt at the original site. The brand-new Guandi Temple stands majestically on the top of Gangga Mountain in Gangga Town, which is far away from Mount Everest. Looking from a distance, the golden touch on the top of the mountain is a testimony of the concerted efforts of all ethnic groups. The rebuilt Guandi Temple is magnificent, with carved beams and painted buildings, yellow tiles and red walls, and dragon heads flying into the sky. It not only retains the architectural structure of Guandi Temple, but also in every detail The elements of Tibetan Buddhism are integrated everywhere, and the martial sage Guandi and the Tibetan national hero King Gesar are enshrined in the hall.
Driving southward, the altitude continued to rise, and we also came to the highest altitude of this trip, 5401 meters. It is already freezing outside the car, covered with dark clouds, what does it feel like at more than 5,000 meters, high altitude is inevitable, walking up will make you more breathless, it is not recommended to stay at an altitude of 5,000 meters for a long time.
This is the southern foothills of the Himalayas, at the junction of China and Nepal, a secret place that few people reach, with snow-capped mountains stretching along the way, Makalu, the fifth highest peak in the world, and Cho Oyu, the sixth highest peak in the world!
The mountains along the way are steep, continuous sharp bends downhill, and it rains again, which is even more mysterious.
After driving for an hour, the altitude dropped from 5,400 meters to 3,300 meters in Rongjiagou. We came to a secret place that fewer people have ever visited. Later, we learned that we were the first tourists to come here. When Tibet was liberated, the local people didn't know it at all, and lived a secluded life that didn't know the Han Dynasty, regardless of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. It was not discovered until the 1970s. The border checks along the way are very strict, and it will be open to tourists at the end of October!
In Rongjiaogou, the unique landform types, diverse climate characteristics, and inaccessible places have fostered a rich population of wild animals.
On the platform on the other side of the river is Quwa Temple, which is also the confluence of Rongjia River and Mailongqu. In the past, Tibetan-style dwellings were built on the hillside, row upon row. After the earthquake, many houses collapsed and became dangerous. Rebuilt after the earthquake, it has been replaced by Panshan Highway.
Historically, Rongjiao was the main place for exchanging grain, oil, salt, sheep and woolen products between Tibet and Nepal and India. Chentang Village, located halfway up the mountain, is a small village on the border between China and Nepal. There are many Tibetan-Nepal intermarriages here, and the small village also has a Nepalese style. It is said that the road is very thrilling during the day, with cliffs on the left, and narrow and steep roads. Fortunately, we climbed up the mountain at night, with clouds and fog, so we didn’t feel so worried when we couldn’t see the cliffs.
Today's Chentang Village has been newly built, and there are many homestays, but the reception capacity is limited. We visited the only teahouse in the village, and the decorations are all Nepalese. When I went to Pokhara, Nepal for a hike in 13 years, the teahouses in many small villages along the way looked like this.
The teahouse also serves as a small shop selling products from Nepal.
Due to the limited supplies, I ordered milk tea and dumplings. Friends who have been here strongly recommend the instant noodles cooked by the boss. Haha, it is really first-class!
Day7 Mount Everest, this life and this mountain
The peak of this trip, the height of life, the sacred coordinate that countless people yearn for, Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world.
I still remember the movie "The Climber" with the theme of Mount Everest that I watched before, which told the story of the Chinese team climbing Mount Everest. On the way to climb the mountain, facing the dangerous environment, the team members went forward without shrinking. In the face of the storm, the team members helped each other and tided over the difficulties together. This kind of overcoming difficulties and moving forward, not afraid of hardships and dangers, is the spirit of Mount Everest.
This is a photo I took when I came to Mount Everest ten years ago. At that time, the road was very bumpy and the journey was difficult. It was not possible to come to Mount Everest without an off-road vehicle. I lived in Laodingri at night. In the folk houses, there is no water or electricity in winter, and the water used for drinking is all picked up by the locals from the river. But when we arrived at Rongbuk Monastery and saw Mount Everest with our own eyes, everything was worth it.
Ten years later, I came to Mount Everest again. Ten years later, the mountain is still a mountain, and I am still on the road.
Ten years, this is an ordinary ten years for me, because of my obsession with travel and photography, there are too many stories and changes. From a student to a social person, from an office worker to an entrepreneur. I think it is travel that gave me the courage to face the unknown, photography that gave me eyes to see the beauty, and love that gave me the motivation to persevere. Perhaps travel itself is meaningless, what is meaningful is this love and dedication. May all your persistence be due to love, just like the spirit of Mount Everest.
Now the road conditions from Shigatse to Mount Everest are much better, and it can be reached without off-road vehicles, and the environmental protection of Mount Everest is also included in the focus. At the foot of Mount Everest, you have to take the environmentally friendly battery cars here to go up the mountain.
At the foot of Mount Everest, there was also a scene where the Guinness record was announced. Yutong electric vehicle successfully declared the Guinness record for the electric vehicle at the highest altitude. Since 2017, Yutong electric vehicles have been operating at the foot of Mount Everest, contributing to the protection of the environment of Mount Everest. This Guinness record is of far-reaching significance, expanding the influence of Mount Everest and carrying forward the spirit of Mount Everest.
The vehicle we took this time is also Yutong’s business first-class vehicle T7, which can be said to be a car that symbolizes wealth and power. The seats are aviation leather seats with the first-class logo. The first position can almost lie flat, and there is a small table. , For those who come to the office to handle official business, the switch of various electrical appliances is integrated on the table board, and there is also a massage heating function. The space in the car is quite large, and the distance between the seats is also large, which provides comfort for this trip.
In front of Rongbuk Monastery, there is also the post office of Mount Everest, the highest in the world, where you can send a postcard as a souvenir.
In addition to the Rongbuk Monastery, another best viewing platform to watch Mount Everest is the Jiawula Pass. Standing on the top of the mountain, there are 108 turns of Mount Everest at the foot, and in the distance stand four peaks in the Himalayas with an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, and Cho Oyu. However, the clouds were too thick that day, and I missed seeing the snow-capped mountains, but was shocked by the 108 turn.
The prayer flags at the mountain pass here are also worth seeing. Many Tibetans who sell prayer flags buy a prayer flag to pray for the safety of their families at an altitude of 5,000 meters.
Day 8 Lazi, Treasure in the Snow Region
At the end of the trip, we visited the most precious snow-covered treasures in Shigatse, Lhatse Duixie, Tibet's intangible cultural heritage, and the treasurers who protect these treasures.
Lhatse Duixie is a folk song and dance art form that integrates singing, dancing, rap and playing that has been spread in Latse, Shigatse City. It has a history of more than 700 years and is also listed in Tibet's intangible cultural heritage.
"Dui" refers to the upper reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River from Lazi to Tingri County in Shigatse City and some areas in Ngari, that is, the higher terrain in Tibet; a kind of dance. Heaping is the most popular in Shigatse, and it is common in open spaces, streets, courtyards and forests. It is said that almost everyone in Lazi will be happy, which shows the popularity.
This time we had the honor to visit the Lazi Folk Art Troupe and enjoy the popular Lazi Duixie. The head of the dance troupe went to the Spring Festival Gala and danced in front of the chairman. The level is also top-notch.
Lazi duixie uses its unique violin as an accompaniment instrument. During the performance, the actors sing and dance while playing. Its content is rich and colorful, the performance rhythm is cheerful, the movements are smooth, free and easy, the artistic style is unique, and the melody is beautiful.
The group performance Lazi Dui Harmony is more shocking. It is different from the dance Guozhuang that we often see in Tibet. The rhythm of Dui Harmony is fast and powerful, and the dance is more intense. If you have the opportunity to catch up with the festival trip, you must not miss the Lazi Duxie.
Leaving Lhatze, we headed to the nearby Sakya County, which is one of the ancient temples in Tibet that I am looking forward to, Sakya Monastery.
Sakya, located in the south of Tibet, on the south bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River, at the northern foot of the Himalayas, has a large elevation difference, complex terrain, and various types of landforms.
With thousands of miles of scenery and rich heritage, Sakya is an old city with a thousand-year history and culture. With a rich and colorful and unique culture,
It occupies an important position in Tibetan culture and has left a strong and colorful stroke in the history of Tibet.
Sakya Temple is a monastery of the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism and the main temple of the Sakya sect. At the entrance of the temple, you can see that the color of the exterior walls here is mainly gray, white and red, which is very different from most of the Gelugpa monasteries seen in Tibet. The representative color of the Sakya sect is red, white and gray, which is called Huajiao.
In the past of the unity of politics and religion, the Sakya Dynasty established by the Sakya Sect was the most prosperous in the Yuan Dynasty. In the Yuan Dynasty, Kublai Khan appointed the fifth Dharma King of Sakya Monastery, Ba Siba, as the national teacher, and also pushed the Sakya Sect to its peak. .
This temple has a history of 700 years, and the vicissitudes of time and the glory of history can be seen everywhere in the temple.
There are countless treasures in the Sakya Temple. The conch presented by Kublai Khan during the Yuan Dynasty is the treasure of the Sakya Temple. Only important festivals will be played by eminent monks. There are more than 3,000 exquisite murals in Sakya Temple. The murals here are called "Dunhuang No. 2", involving religion, history, culture and social life, and covering a wide range. The four walls of the Sakya sect are a must-see when you come here. The porcelain wall preserves the precious porcelain from the Yuan Dynasty, and the most famous one is the scripture wall.
The pillars in the main hall also have a history of more than 600 years.
This scripture wall is about six meters long and about 50 meters long, with scriptures on three sides. It is very shocking to see it with your own eyes. These scriptures have a history of 700 years, and the long river of time has not been damaged. It is because the scriptures are made of special paper, Tibetan paper, and Tibetan paper is made of a local poisonous wolfberry. Rats and insects will not bite, and they will go to the end of the scriptures. , the local people are kowtow to worship is the world's largest scripture, the world's rare splint-style scripture "Budejia Longma, weighs more than a thousand catties. There are also very rare and extremely precious Beiye Sutras in the world. It is said that a piece of Beiye Sutra is worth 8 million yuan, and there is also the illuminated manuscript "Tripitaka", but it cannot be photographed here.
It is found that some scriptures will protrude, and they are extremely irregular. It is said that if there is an earthquake or war in the world, these scriptures will slide out automatically.
There is a liberation ladder in Sakya Monastery. The ladder is so high and steep that it feels almost 90 degrees. It is said that if you go up this 42-level liberation ladder in one breath, you will be free from worldly troubles. We walked with trepidation, but the locals walked up quickly, haha.
Climb up the Liberation Ladder, the outer wall of the second floor above the temple. Here you can see the essence of the entire architectural style of the Sakya Temple. The layout looks like a mandala (mandala-shaped) from a bird's-eye view.
After visiting the Sakya Monastery, we came to the nearby Sakya Thangka workshop, which was also owned by Mr. Wang Jia, the vice president of the Tibetan Art Association. It happened to be busy farming time, and only a few painters were painting, and they were all young. He is a national first-class painter, and his skills are amazing.
Thangka, in Tibetan, Tang represents vastness, and Ka is blank. Thangka enshrines sacred beliefs and purifies the hearts of believers with religious beauty. Thangka, more than a work of art, can be said to be the most complicated meticulous painting handed down in the world, and it is also a world intangible cultural heritage.
Thangka uses pure natural ore, so it can last for hundreds of years without fading. Green is mostly malachite and aeroligolith, not turquoise. Red is more popular, using cinnabar, and gold is made of gold leaf, and gold is far from the most precious raw material in Thangka. The most precious pigment in Thangka is blue copper. Mine, a small piece is five or six thousand, plus the complicated, time-consuming and labor-intensive craftsmanship, a pair of thangkas are so valuable.
Thangka will not be destroyed for a thousand years, even if your memory fades, Thangka will not fade.
Why has Thangka become an important artistic expression in Tibetan Buddhism, but not in Chinese Buddhism? It turns out that in the past, Tibetans were nomadic people, living scattered and often needing to move. It would be very inconvenient for nomads to carry large Buddha statues. Thangkas have become very portable and convenient for praying anytime and anywhere.
Thangkas not only depict religion, but also record the history, culture, politics and life of Tibetans.
Thangka painting is a test of patience and requires the painter to be calm. In the past, the painter would light a stick of incense before painting. If the incense is erratic, it means that the mind is not calm, and it is not suitable for painting at this moment.
We asked the painter about how long it would take for this one. He said that it would take two months and eight hours a day to paint, while the large thangka on the wall would take four painters to paint at the same time for half a year. How much is the price of such a huge painting? Chang said it was for monasteries, and the price was more than 100,000 yuan.
Chatting with the painters when they are resting, most of them have been learning thangka for ten years. Thangka is very eye-catching. The painter’s painting life is at most forty years old. Many filler pigments are slightly poisonous. It can be said that the painter uses his life In painting, admirable.
There is also a Thangka base in Sakya, where you can visit the production process of Tibetan masks, Tibetan silver, Tibetan incense, and bronze ware, all of which are important intangible cultural heritage of Tibet.
I learned about Tibetan masks from the Gannan Maolam Dharma Assembly. After the Buddha Sun Festival, there will be a Liangbao Dancing Buddha ceremony in Xicang Temple. The lamas in the temple will play the role of the great master, King Kong, deer god, skeleton, bull god, horse god, etc., with gorgeous costumes and bright colors.
When the solemn and deep Buddhist music sounded, the dancers wore various masks and danced to the music. Their movements were steady and powerful, and they expressed their good wishes for the New Year through powerful movements. The Dharma dance lasted for several hours. At the end, the great master led the dancers and monks to knead tsampa and send it to the outskirts of the temple to burn it, praying for good weather in the coming year.
The mask used by Tiaoshen is Tibetan mask.
Tibetan masks are different from Thangkas, they require not only painting skills, but also carving skills. It takes a lot of work to make each mask. Looking at the huge masks, they are actually very light to hold. They are all made of cloth. Layers are solidified, and then newspapers are applied. Here, the raw materials of Tibetan incense are also used to cover the mask. After it dries, the painting can begin.
There are many intangible cultural heritages in Tibet, such as Tibetan incense, Tibetan paper, Tibetan opera, Nimu calligraphy, and Bangdian. These ancient techniques are not outdated cultures, but the roots of this nation that have been passed down for thousands of years. They are dedicated ingenuity .
pure handmade Tibetan silver
bronze
At the end of the trip to treasures, we returned to Shigatse and visited a local Tibetan clothing design brand Nijimla founder Pu Pu. She once studied jewelry appraisal in the mainland, gave up a comfortable and comfortable life, and returned to her hometown Shigatse. Integrate your own life taste and sensitivity to fashion into the original brand, improve creative clothing to reshape the traditional Tibetan clothing industry, and influence more young people to pay attention to Tibetan clothing.
During the conversation with her, I felt her love for Tibetan culture. She not only made a good clothing brand, but also assumed social responsibility, contributed to the tourism of her hometown, and her original intention of helping poor households in agricultural and pastoral areas get rid of poverty and become rich. The love of a child is admirable.
The second floor displays Tibetan traditional cultural life folk customs and various cultural and creative tourism souvenirs.
This Tibetan female compatriot who insists on dedication and never forgets her original intention also shows us the power of women in the new era.
I like Tibet not only because of the beautiful scenery of this pure land, but also because the people here are devout because of faith, focus on inheritance, respect nature and protect nature. The snowy treasures in Shigatse are not only these Tibetan intangible cultural heritage, but also It is these ingenuity, every conscientious person, may this plateau pure land be protected forever.
Itinerary & High Anti-TIPS
【Itinerary】
D1: direct flight from the mainland to Shigatse - Zhasi Lunpo Monastery - Stone Carving Museum - special Tibetan meals, accommodation in Shigatse urban area
D2: Shigatse urban area - Gyantse Zongshan - Baiju Temple - Gyantse Red River Valley Ecological Park, accommodation Gyantse RV camp
D3: Gyantse County - Duoqingcuo - Pali Grassland - Zhuomula Ri Snow Mountain Observation Deck - Salmon Feast, accommodation in Yadong County
D4: Yadong County - Pali Grassland - Zhuomulari Snow Mountain - Lower Yadong Primeval Forest - Dongga Temple, stay in Yadong County
D5: Dingjie Wetland-Gangba Car View Himalayas Snow Mountain-Qilin Gorge, accommodation in Dingjie County
D6: Dingjie County Town - Liusha River - Dingri County Town - Guandi Temple - Rongjiaogou - Chentang Village Cloud Town, stay in Rongjiaogou
D7: Rongjugou - Rongbuk Temple - Everest Base Camp - Gawula Pass - Lazi County, stay in Lazi County.
D8: Lhatze Duxie - Sakya Monastery - visit Tibet's intangible cultural heritage - Shigatse urban area. Accommodation Shigatse City
D9: Return to the mainland from Shigatse
This is the first loop line in Tibet that does not go back and takes Mount Everest as the core. It focuses on high-quality, high-comfort Everest loop products. This route not only has top-level natural scenery, but also has rich post-Tibetan culture and borders. Style, enough oxygen to stay in Yadonggou and Rongjiagou, to solve the pain point of insufficient oxygen, use first-class vehicles for the entire loop line, to solve the problem of comfort in long-distance traffic.
【Prevention of altitude sickness】
No matter it is the first time or the tenth time you enter the plateau, you will have high reaction. Headache, insomnia, loss of appetite, and difficulty breathing will occur in the first three days. This is a normal high reaction phenomenon. Don’t worry too much. Generally, you can adapt to the plateau in three days
Before departure:
1. You can buy some rhodiola saffron tea to drink
2. Do not exercise too much in the last week, so as not to be too tired before reaching the plateau
3. You can buy high-reverse drugs online in advance, such as: Rhodiola Oral Liquid, Gaoyuanan, and high-reverse effervescent tablets
4. It is strongly recommended to buy glucose powder. After arriving at the plateau, drink water several times a day and add glucose to improve blood sugar and blood oxygen
5. If some parts of your body are prone to discomfort, it may be more obvious on plateaus. Remember to bring your usual medicines
6. Prepare a portable and simple oximeter to know your blood oxygen content. Hypoxia is more serious if it is lower than 80. It is best to inhale oxygen
7. It is not recommended to go to the plateau if you have a cold, fever and cough
After reaching the plateau:
1. Drink water every day, get up early and drink 500ML of glucose water
2. Try not to take a bath for the first three days, especially on the first day, do not take a bath or wash your hair, it is especially easy to feel high and uncomfortable
3. If you feel tired, you can take American ginseng lozenges orally
4. Buy oxygen cylinders for emergencies. Don’t wait until you are particularly hypoxic. If you feel uncomfortable, breathe oxygen to relieve it.
5. Try not to smoke, drink or do strenuous exercise, walk slowly, climb stairs more slowly
at last:
I have been to Tibet many times, and there are countless high-altitude areas. Every time the high-altitude reaction is mild or severe, I have taken a lot of high-reaction medicines, and there is no glucose water pipe. Oxygen inhalation will not solve the high-reaction problem, but more to relieve it. , Adjust your physical condition, basically you will get used to it in three days, don’t be too tired before going to the plateau! The plateau has a large temperature difference, so bring good cold-proof clothes and anti-cold medicines.