I have visited so many famous mountains and great rivers in China, but since I went to Yuntai Mountain in Jiaozuo, Henan Province and Taihang Mountain in Linzhou in October 2007, I have a soft spot for Taihang Mountain, even though Taihang Mountain is only listed in the most beautiful canyon category of "China National Geographic". Nine, however, when I was driving on the 20-kilometer-long Taihang Tianlu on the top of Taihang Mountain in Linzhou, facing the walled canyon, and looking at the long cliffs like copper walls and iron walls in Jincheng, Shanxi, the majesty and magnificence of its momentum is breathtaking. As the acme of perfection, it is worthy of being the backbone of the land of China. "China National Geography" commented: "The Taihang Mountain Grand Canyon is high and deep, forming a majestic landscape with large ups and downs, large space and large rhythm. The static beauty of the mountain and the dynamic beauty of the water are integrated into one, deriving a geology with high aesthetic value. Landforms, Chinese culture and many historical events have left traces here, which are rare at home and abroad." Since then, I have wanted to visit the Taihang Mountains in Shanxi and Hebei again, and I have done a lot of homework, and finally this year In November, the trip to Shanxi began.

Some scholars believe that the Taihang Mountains are divided into Taihang Mountains in a broad sense and Taihang Mountains in a narrow sense. It also includes Mount Wutai, Mount Heng, and Mount Taiyue. Its trend is S-shaped, like a giant dragon, "very majestic", with the dragon's head in Beijing and the dragon's tail in the Yellow River. The shape of Taihang Mountain can be called the totem of the Chinese nation. In a narrow sense, the main ridge of the Taihang Mountains extends northeast along the provincial borders of Shanxi, Henan, and Hebei. From Qinyang and Jiyuan in Henan Province to Fuping in Hebei Province, the mountains run north-south, which is the so-called real Taihang Mountain.” The Taihang Mountain trip that I have already undertaken and is planning to take is in a smaller scope, starting from Jiaozuo, Henan, Henan in the south, Jincheng, Shanxi, north to Jingjing, Hebei, including four of the eight Taihang trails, from Taihang trail to Jingjing.

(The first section of my planned travel route is from Jincheng to Changzhi, and the second section is Jingjing to Zanhuang to Fengfeng mining area. This is the first section.)


At 9:13 on October 29, take the G1806 at Shanghai Hongqiao to Zhengzhou at 14:04, and take the intercity bus at Zhengzhou High-speed Railway Coach Terminal Station to Jincheng East Passenger Transport Station at 15:30. The distance is 192 kilometers, the whole journey is high-speed, and the fare is only 20 Yuan, surprisingly! The fare of the tourist bus from Jincheng to various scenic spots is 1 or 2 yuan. Even if it is 92 kilometers away to the Wangmangling scenic spot, which is 92 kilometers away, the whole journey is high-speed, and the outbound journey is 8 yuan, and the return journey is 2 yuan. On weekends and holidays, intercity and tourist buses are free, and it’s unbelievable that you don’t get to Jincheng. Jincheng has an official account: "Big Beauty Taihang Jincheng Tour", which introduces various scenic spots and tourist bus schedules. For us retirees, the scenic spots in Shanxi are free of charge for those over 65 years old, and 4 and 5-star hotels are about 400 yuan. Traveling to Jincheng is really affordable in the end.

We first stayed at the four-star China World Hotel in the city center. The hotel is relatively new and it is next to the shopping mall. The price is 398 yuan including breakfast. There is a food court in the shopping mall, which is very convenient to eat. Shanxi noodles are very famous, but we ate three noodles there, and none of them were satisfying. They were all batter. After staying for three days, I changed hotels to the five-star Haitian Hotel. The price is 368 yuan including breakfast. Although the decoration of the hotel is a bit old, I like the design style very much, which is more western style. Surprisingly, there is a Fujian seafood restaurant diagonally opposite the hotel. We had three dinners there. Although we didn't eat seafood because of my wife's tonsil inflammation, the vegetarian dishes were very delicious, which suits the taste of southerners. There are no international brand hotels in Jincheng, but the services of these two hotels are satisfactory. Guomao will put fruit after cleaning the room in the morning, and mung bean porridge will be delivered in the evening; Haitian will also deliver fruit every day; check-out is always a flash. Especially in Guomao Hotel, the waiter saw that my wife had a lot of cosmetics, so he took the hotel’s cosmetic box and put the cosmetics in the box. Knowing that we are old and tired from traveling, he sent us a muscle-relaxing hammer to tap our muscles to relieve fatigue , and refused to accept tips, we are full of respect for this beautiful smiling little aunt.

Guomao Hotel Buffet Restaurant


On October 30th, go to Qinglian Temple in Xiashishan, Nanzhuang, Zezhou, 17.5 kilometers southeast of the city. Because this is an unpopular scenic spot, there is no tourist bus. Although there are suburban buses, the interval is very long. We paid 50 yuan to go there. of. Qinglian Temple is the earliest temple of Maitreya Pure Land Sect. It is next to the Danhe River and built on the mountain. . The temple is divided into the lower courtyard and the upper courtyard. The car can drive to the upper courtyard, so we start to visit from the upper courtyard. At this time, there are no other tourists inside and outside the temple, and everything is quiet. It is really a quiet place for Buddhism. The Upper Court was first built in the Sui Dynasty, and most of the existing buildings are Song structures, which were rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. Sakyamuni Hall, Avalokitesvara Pavilion, and Dizang Pavilion each have many sculptures and painted Buddha statues from the Song Dynasty. Unfortunately, the restoration of the Buddha statues closed the door to thank visitors. It is said that the State Administration of Cultural Heritage discovered that the restoration of the Buddha statue was not as old as it was before, and ordered the suspension of work. It has been two years so far. The restoration of painted Buddha statues is the most difficult part of ancient building restoration. It is necessary to analyze the composition of the pigments used at that time, to study the original appearance of the incomplete limbs of Buddha statues, and to have craftsmen with high-level painting skills. If you do not have these conditions, it is better not to repair them. I think the most interesting building of Qinglian Temple is the Buddhist scripture pavilion built in the Tang Dynasty and repaired in the Song and Yuan Dynasties. At the corners of the eaves, there are small warriors supporting the roof with their backs, implying the firmness of the building. In front of the Daxiong Palace, there are two thousand-year-old ginkgo trees, the ground is full of golden leaves, the east is a male tree with a circumference of 5 meters, and the west is a female tree with a circumference of 4 meters; , known as "children embrace mother", the mother cypress is 3 meters thick and 27 meters high; the son cypress is 1 meter thick and 24 meters high.

House of Lords

Tibetan Scripture Pavilion

Sakyamuni Hall

Ancient Ginkgo in Daxiong Palace

Cypress


The lower courtyard was first built in the Tianbao year of the Northern Qi Dynasty, and was rebuilt in the Tang Dynasty. There will be a shadowless scene in this tower for more than ten minutes, so it is also called the shadowless tower. So far no one can solve the mystery of shadowless. Fortunately, the door of the Maitreya Hall is not closed. The Buddhist altar in the hall is surrounded by a glass cover, with Maitreya in the middle, Kasyapa and Ananda, Puxian and Manjusri on both sides. They are all Tang sculptures, which are rare in China. What I have learned is that, including Maitreya, there is no statue of Buddha sitting cross-legged, Maitreya Buddha sitting upright, which shows that Maitreya before the Tang Dynasty was not the image of a happy Buddha with a big belly. The statue has a dignified appearance, a well-proportioned figure, and lifelike folds in its clothes. I have seen no Buddha statues in countless temples, old or new, comparable to it.

The founder of Qinglian Temple was Huiyuan (523-592), an eminent monk from the Northern Qi Dynasty to the Sui Dynasty. He was born in Zezhou, Jincheng. In the history of Chinese Buddhism, Master Huiyuan played an important role. He was seventy years old, and he has written more than 20 volumes of scriptures, among which, the 26 volumes of Mahayana Yizhang can be called the encyclopedia of Buddhism. "The Dragon Among the Monks", "The Master of the Qi and Sui Dynasty", "The King of Shu", and "The Great Patriarch of Interpretation".

In November 2006, Qinglian Temple unearthed a stone statue of Tantric Buddhism in the Northern Qi Dynasty. According to the research of Professor Luo Zhao, a famous Buddhist archaeologist, this stone carving of Tantric Buddhism is the earliest surviving real object of Tantric Buddhism in the world. Professor Luo Zhao believes that Esoteric Buddhism corresponds to Sutra and is an advanced stage of Buddhist practice. It was once popular in the Northern Dynasties, disappeared mysteriously after the Tang Dynasty, and reappeared in the grasslands in the Yuan Dynasty, but it is different from the early days. He concluded that this Tantric cultural relic was not only more than 150 years earlier than the Tantric objects in Famen Temple in the Tang Dynasty, but also earlier than the existing Tantric objects in ancient India.

Zhang Yangmeng, a poet of Jincheng Zezhou in the Ming Dynasty wrote "Mid-Autumn Tour Qinglian Temple":

Sheng Youna doesn't fall in love with the same group, and wants to zen together and knock on the white clouds.

The stone pedal lingers back to thousands of peaks, and the Zhulin is graceful and graceful.

Jiuyan shows off the green lotus color, and the dragon Tibetan fragrance contains Bayewen.

Yeyue Zen's heart is as clear as water, but how can it be like the atmosphere of bitter dust all day long.

Maitreya Hall

Maitreya Hall Tang Dynasty Painted Sculpture (The statue is copied from Baidu)

Maitreya

Ananda and Kassapa

Samantabhadra

Manjushri

Danshui outside the Buddhist temple


Although Jueshan is less than 5 kilometers away from Qinglian Temple, we have to wait for an hour to take a bus. We can only ask a local who works as a wild tour guide at Qinglian Temple to call for a taxi, and was charged 30 yuan to go to the scenic spot. Jue Mountain is 973 meters above sea level, with a vegetation coverage rate of 85%. Cotinus cotinus is planted all over the mountain, and the leaves turn red in late autumn. It is an excellent place for viewing red leaves in Jincheng. We overlooked the surrounding hillsides from the cable car, and it was really "seeing the red mountains all over the mountains, and the forests are all dyed". Jue Mountain is also known as Jiaoshan Mountain. Its twin peaks confront each other, just like a pair of jasper inlaid on Taihang Mountain, so it is named Jue Mountain. "Jueshan spit the moon" is one of the four major scenic spots in Jincheng. The inscription "Creating Jueshan One Day Gate" in the 35th year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty said: "Every year in August, the moon comes out from the middle, which is called Jueshan spit the moon, also It is also a scenic spot for sightseeing.” Poet Du Mu of the Tang Dynasty, Shangshu Wang Guoguang of the Ming Dynasty, Dong Xu of the Ming Dynasty, and Chen Tingjing of the Pavilion of the Qing Dynasty all left poems after traveling here. The Moon Pavilion in Qinglian Temple is the best place to enjoy the moon in Jueshan.

In history, Taoism and Buddhism coexisted in Jueshan Mountain, which flourished in the Ming Dynasty, but now all the reconstructions are Taoist temples. The highest one is Jinding in the east, and there is Xuanwu Hall, and there is Zhenwu Hall in the west. A piece of stone was carved on the cliff during the year. Behind the Jinding Xuanwu Hall, you can see the S-shaped Dan River, commonly known as the Bagua River by the locals, but because of the wrong location, you can't see the whole picture. "Shanghaiji" says: "Dan water flows out of Changping north and south, Qinkeng Zhaozhong, bleeding Danchuan, there is a common name Danhe." It is about the battle between Qin and Zhao Changping. Blood flowed into the river, dyed red.

The bus didn't catch up, and we had to wait for an hour, and the return trip cost 50 yuan.

12821 steps today.

scary swing

Red leaves all over the mountain

Ciyun Pavilion

plank road

Kuaiyueting

Xuanwu Hall

Looking at Danshui Bagua from Jueshan


October 31 was also a sunny day. We took a tourist bus to Wangmangling at the Passenger Transport East Station. Big, not too tiring. According to legend, Wang Mangling was the place where Wang Mang chased and killed Liu Xiuan in the Western Han Dynasty. It is the boundary mountain between Lingchuan in Shanxi and Huixian County in Henan. It is even bigger, and the winding and continuous cliffs on the sunny side that you can see are actually Taihang Mountains in Huixian County. 9 kilometers south of Wangmangling Mountain is the Xiyagou Wall-mounted Highway, which is included in the Wangmangling Scenic Area. Since 1962, Xiyagou villagers have spent 20 years building a 7.5-kilometer-long wall-mounted road. Now, the wall-mounted road in Xiyagou is undergoing major repairs. It will be closed for two years. We are not allowed to enter. It is a pity, but there are buses sent to Xiyagou by the Korean tour group. The buses in the scenic spot are also for Koreans who arrive later. The car you take is driven first, the inside and outside are different, and the face of the Chinese is lost.

This is the boundary of Henan

great man peak

Fortunately, the driver showed kindness and took us directly to the bus station to catch the bus back to the city at 3:00, otherwise we would have to wait another hour. It was evening when I transferred to the city bus to the old street near the People’s Square in the city center. The old street has now become a pedestrian street. A few of the old houses on both sides of the street have been restored, and most of them are under restoration or have not yet started repairing. I turned into a small alley and walked into the courtyards of several houses. Although they were dilapidated and messy, the wooden arches and wooden decorations of the old houses still had incomplete beauty. There is a huge food court under the People’s Square. The taxi driver once told me that I can eat authentic Shanxi noodles here. We ordered Shangdang Chaomianpi, which was not delicious at all.

11162 steps today.

1

Change hotel on January 1, rest.

On the morning of November 2, we went to the Jade Emperor Temple, which is 16 kilometers away from the hotel. There is a direct bus. We tried to save time and took a taxi for 30 yuan to the Jade Emperor Temple. Taxi prices in Jincheng are very cheap, starting at 5 yuan and 1.4 yuan per kilometer. Although the bus is also convenient and the fare is 1 yuan, we always take taxis in the city, generally no more than 10 yuan.

The Jade Emperor Temple is located in Fucheng Village, Zezhou County, northeast of Jincheng. It is a Taoist temple. It was first built in the Northern Song Dynasty. There are three existing temples. There are more than 300 colored sculptures of the Jade Emperor, Yaowang, and Dizang, most of which are Song sculptures. Among them, the most artistic value is the 28 statues of Liu Luan, a master sculptor of the Yuan Dynasty. It's a pity that in order to protect cultural relics, people can only look in through the narrow iron gate, and the light is dim, so they can't get a glimpse of the whole picture. Why not make a door with perforated glass on the upper part and iron or wood on the lower part and door frame for people to appreciate? It's really a joy to come, and a disappointment to return.

The painted sculptures are in the side rooms on both sides


(The statue is copied from Baidu)

The Guandi Temple in Fucheng is close at hand. It is a Ming Dynasty building with four entrances, exquisite structure and gorgeous decoration. The third entrance is Guandi Shengjun Hall, and the four rolling dragon balls are still eye-catching. There are statues of civil servants and military officials on the dragon pillars. There are statues of various people on the pillars of the Four-Entry Sanyi Hall, many of which are historical or mythical figures, such as Guo Ziyi, Cheng Yaojin, Qin Qiong, Jiang Taigong, etc., with vivid images. I humbly believe that the stone carving art in the Ming Dynasty should have reached the peak of history.

There are two bronze plaques with red letters hanging outside the two rooms of Guandi Temple, which are: the new era party member workshop of Jincheng Direct Work Committee of the Communist Party of China, and the party branch of Jincheng Guangong Cultural Exchange Association. Putting the party organization in Guandi Temple is to Communist Party members learn the loyalty of Guan Gong?

Three Temples

Guan Sheng Di Jun Palace


At 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I chartered a car to the First Bay of Qinhe, 38 kilometers southwest of the city, and it cost 200 yuan. Because I took the county road and some sections of the road were not good, I took a pickup truck. We hired a taxi to go to Qinglian Temple and left the phone number of the female driver. We asked her to book the car. Jincheng's traffic management is very strict, there are no black cars to solicit passengers, if you charter a car, you can only charter a taxi. The first bay of Qinhe River is in Zhaihou Village, Lizhai Town, Yangcheng County. When we turned into the road to the viewing platform, we found that the road was closed by iron gates due to construction, and someone was guarding it. . The caretaker said that we can also see from above, so we turned around and went up a few hundred meters to see a village. There was a pavilion at the front of the open space across the road, which may have been a former viewing platform, but here we can only see the side, not the panorama. At this time, an old woman came over and told me that I could go back and forth from the viewing platform on the mountain road for an hour and lead the way for 30 yuan. It must take me more than an hour to go back and forth from the trail down the mountain to the viewing platform, but it’s coming, so let’s fight it out. The old woman called her wife, who was tall and thin, and looked nearly 80 years old. The old woman said that the old man walked on the mountain road, so the old man led the way in front, and we followed, and walked a section of the rugged mountain road. There was a white car on the viewing platform, so I asked the old man, can you drive us to the viewing platform, and he said: OK, the gatekeeper is from my village. That being the case, why did he take us on a mountain road? We couldn't figure it out. So he got in the car and stopped at the iron gate. He and the old man at the gate muttered for a while. They opened the door, the car drove in, and the door was closed again. We finally arrived at the viewing platform. The viewing platform built of wood is actually not the best place to see the first bay of Qinhe River. I walked hundreds of meters along the wall-like stone railing built on the edge of the cliff to find the place where I can see Qinhe River and be surrounded by the river. peninsula-like hills. The Qinhe River has nine bends and eighteen bays, and here comes a U-shaped big turn, surrounded by peaks, the scenery is charming, and there is a small village on the downhill slope of the mountain, which is like a paradise. The peninsula is like a snake, and there are stone pillars on the top of the mountain, and it looks like a dinosaur with a crown. It's a pity that because of the dam built upstream, there is very little river water at the big bend. In today's China, where there are rivers, reservoirs, dams, and power stations are mostly built, which not only destroys the natural ecology, but also destroys the natural landscape, and some natural landscapes have completely disappeared as a result. The sky is dark and there is a slight smog. It is unlikely to see the beauty of the sunset at the first bay of Qinhe River. It is almost five o'clock, so we return. I gave the old man 50 yuan, but he waved his hand and said too much, so I forced him to accept it. At the corner of the intersection, he insisted on getting out of the car and walking back to the village by himself. He is a simple old farmer in Shanxi.

Observation deck

On the way, we went to Yedi Village, a famous historical and cultural village in China. There are many smelters around Yedi Village. It is said that this village was the capital of Yedi in ancient times, and the name of Yedi Village may come from this. However, there is nothing to see in the village. The most famous in the village is the Dai Temple. It is unknown when it was built, and the existing buildings are made in the Song Dynasty. It was almost half past five, and the temple door was already closed. I knocked hard on the door, but the door was so thick that it couldn’t make a sound, so naturally no one answered. I saw the unique and simple shape of the stone lion outside the door. I also saw an ancient ginkgo tree with an inscription in front saying: This tree is 25.4 meters high and 3.25 meters in diameter. tree" name. Emperor Qin had to pass through Yedi from Chang'an, Xijing, to Mount Tai to worship the sky. Every time the emperor went to the tree, he would burn incense and worship, and then built the Dai Temple beside the tree. This is the only temple named after Dai Temple besides Mount Tai. It is also a blessing to see such a long-lived ginkgo tree.

11178 steps today.

6000 ginkgo


On November 3, I spent 2 yuan to take a tourist bus to Yangcheng Huangcheng Xiangfu and Guoyu Ancient City, which are 35 kilometers away from the urban area. Huangcheng Xiangfu is the former residence of Chen Tingjing (1638-1712), a famous minister of Kangxi. Chen Tingjing, courtesy name Ziduan, nicknamed Shuoyan, and later nicknamed Wuting, served successively as the censor of Zuodu, Shangshu of the Ministry of Industry, and Shangshu of the Ministry of Households. In the forty-second year of Kangxi (1703), he was a scholar of Wenyuan Pavilion and Minister of the Ministry of Officials. In the forty-ninth year of Kangxi (1710), he served as the chief editor of "Kangxi Dictionary". Chen Tingjinggong's poems and proses have lofty knowledge and elegant writing. There are 50 volumes of "Wuting Wenbian" included in "Siku Quanshu". I am ignorant and ignorant, and I only knew about this adult after watching the TV series "A Generation of Famous Ministers Chen Tingjing".

The Imperial City Prime Minister's Mansion covers an area of ​​more than 100,000 square meters, with a construction area of ​​36,000 square meters. It is divided into inner city and outer city. There are 16 courtyards and 640 houses. The inner city is a relic of the Ming Dynasty, and the outer city was built in the Qing Dynasty. It is built on the mountain. It is a closed castle complex. I think the most eye-catching building in the Imperial City Xiangfu is the majestic and majestic stone archway that you can see from the gate tower of Zhongdaozhuang. It was built in the 38th year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (1699). There are five-story plaques in the middle and six floors on both sides. The name plate records the official merits of five generations of the family starting from Chen Tingjing's grandfather and the emperor's gift. This is the largest and most beautiful meritorious archway I have ever seen. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Chen family produced a total of 41 tribute students, 19 Juren, 9 Jinshi, and 6 Hanlin. Emperor Kangxi commented on Chen Tingjing as "Fang Yao is elegant, Li Du is a poet". Emperor Qianlong personally wrote the couplet "Deji has nine scholars in one family, Enrong III has six Hanlin scholars", and praised Chen Tingjing and the Chen family. The second is the towering watchtower located in the north of the inner city. It was built in the fifth year of Chongzhen in the Ming Dynasty (1632) and named "Heshan Tower". And built. There is a couplet written by Kangxi himself on the imperial book building at the entrance of the outer city: "In spring, the trees are thick and shady, and in autumn, the yellow flowers are fragrant in the evening." This is Chen Tingjing in the emperor's mind. The whole castle is magnificent, facing Fanshan Mountain in the north and Fanxi River in the west, with mountains and rivers next to it, rising and falling one after another, which is very spectacular.

Zhongdaozhuang

Big archway

Small torii


watchtower



back yard

panoramic


The ancient city of Guoyu is only 300 meters away from the Imperial City Xiangfu. This is an ancient village built before the Tang Dynasty and built in the Ming Dynasty. Its history is far longer than that of the Imperial City Prime Minister's Mansion. The Imperial City Prime Minister's Mansion originally belonged to Guoyu Village, where Chen Tingjing was born and raised. Like the Prime Minister's Mansion in the imperial city, there are also city walls and watchtowers for the purpose of defending against bandits. Guoyu Ancient City covers a total area of ​​180,000 square meters. There are more than 80 courtyards and more than 2,000 houses in Ming and Qing Dynasties, including city walls, palaces, residences, temples and ancestral halls, shops and workshops, and gardens. From the middle of the Ming Dynasty to the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, there were 25 Juren and 16 Jinshi in more than 100 years. It is praised as "the treasure of Chinese folk houses" by ancient architecture masters.

There are still aborigines in the ancient city of Guoyu, and the relocation and restoration are in progress. Due to lack of funds, most of the ancient buildings have not been repaired. Only a commercial street entering the castle is under construction, allowing me to see the original appearance and history of the ancient city buildings. evolve. Climb to the watchtower named "Yu Tower", which is the same as the Xiangfu in the imperial city, with a height of more than 30 meters and seven floors. Looking down from the top of the building, you can see dense houses, mixed with old and new, and some houses have collapsed. Ordinary dwellings in the ancient city of Guoyu are basically two-story courtyards or quadrangles. Many courtyards are demolished and rebuilt, leaving only one or two main rooms or wing rooms. Some are dilapidated, but their exquisite wooden decorations, screen walls, doors Brick carvings on the wall or the inner wall of the courtyard. The most interesting houses in the ancient city are the various courtyard doors, most of which are brick outer frames, wooden door frames and door leaves, but the styles are not the same, and the door cymbals and door locks are also different. The gates of officials and eunuchs are more grand, archway-style, with stone lions, bucket arches, and hanging flowers. For example, Jinshi Building is said to have been built by Chen Tingjing’s father, Chen Changqi, after Chen Tingjing became a Jinshi. There are two pairs of stone lions in front of the gate, the front is big and the back is small. The prominent position of the master. Another example is the Little Lion Courtyard, which is the residence of Zhang Haogu, who was the first official in Guoyu Village to go to the capital. It was named because of the small stone lions in front of the gate. Another house named Xidu Shize was built in the Jiajing year of the Ming Dynasty. It was once owned by Chen Tianyou, the deputy envoy of Shaanxi’s procuratorate. Although the gate is inconspicuous, there are three courtyards inside, carved beams and painted buildings, especially brick and stone carvings, which can be called Ming Dynasty sculptures The essence of art.

The main streets of the ancient city are stone roads, and the alleys are earth brick roads, which are unique. Several alleys have cross-street buildings. Because the ancient city is too big, there is no guide map, and I have no physical strength, so I only saw some places, and some representative buildings such as Bingyuan Dujian, Dazhong Chengdi, Chen Tingjing's ancestral home and old lion courtyard were all missed.

The above are officials and eunuchs

The above are ordinary residences

watchtower

The largest building in the ancient city of Guoyu is Tangdi Temple. The main hall has nine bays, 9 meters high and 6 meters deep. Opposite the main hall is the Yuan Dynasty stage with cornices and corners, 5 meters wide, 5.6 meters deep, and 20 meters high. It is magnificent and rare in China. Tangdi Temple, commonly known as the Great Temple, is located in the west gate, with a site height of 28 meters. It was first built in the Yuan Zhizheng period (1341-1368), and was expanded during the Ming Zhengde period (1506-1522). It was destroyed by fire during the Jiajing period. It was rebuilt during the years, and it was demolished and renovated in the ninth year of Shunzhi in Qing Dynasty (1652). There is a Bell and Drum Tower on the west side of the gate. In the 1980s, ten halls in the main hall of Tangdi Temple were destroyed. In 2000, Guoyu Village raised 700,000 yuan to rebuild it. The villagers who guard the gate think that the Tangdi Temple is still the same as the old one after being repaired due to less money. I told them that I like to look at old things, painted with red paint, and the original taste is lost. Explain that your village has a long history. Emperor Tang became Tang, the first monarch of the Shang Dynasty. Xia Jie was cruel and tyrannical, the people opposed, and the princes rebelled. Tang raised troops to destroy Xia, and established the Shang Dynasty around 1600 BC, with the capital Bo (now Shangqiu, Henan).

Temple of Emperor Tang


The castle buildings along the Qinhe River are the most in Shanxi and even in the whole country. In addition to the Imperial City Xiangfu and Guoyu Ancient City, there are Liu's (built by Liu Zongyuan's descendants) residential buildings, Xiangyu Ancient Castle, Guobi Ancient City, etc. The reason for the ancient building complex and Douzhuang ancient building complex is unknown. The buildings of the ancient castles are similar, except for the city walls, there is a "Heshan Building" watchtower, which is the tallest building in the whole village.

Walked 12672 steps today.

On the morning of November 4th, I took an intercity bus to Changzhi at the East Passenger Transport Station. The distance is 102 kilometers, the whole journey is high-speed, and the fare is 10 yuan. In the afternoon, we stayed at the Runerlai Hotel in the High-tech Zone. This is the most luxurious hotel in Changzhi. The room rate is 480 yuan, including breakfast. Unfortunately, it is located in a remote area. There are no buildings in the High-tech Zone, but only farmers’ relocation houses. There are no restaurants around, so it is difficult to get a taxi. , The corridors and rooms have the smell of formaldehyde that has not dissipated after the renovation. We changed to the Huanuo New Jinglun International Hotel in the city center the next day. The room rate is 436 yuan, including breakfast. The facilities of this hotel are average, but the business is very good, almost full every day, just because of the good location. There is no bottled water if there is a clean water tap in the bathroom. There is no coffee machine for breakfast, only three-in-one coffee bags. Fortunately, there is a Shunde restaurant next door, where you can eat dim sum dishes that southerners like to eat. We are tired of Shanxi pasta.

After taking a nap, I took a taxi to Guanyin Temple. The driver didn’t know that there was a Guanyin Temple nearby, so he used the navigation to walk to a dead end road, because there are construction sites near the hotel, and the original road was blocked. I said that the Guanyin Hall is in Liangjiazhuang, and the driver only said that he knew it, and it was only a few minutes after the U-turn. The Guanyin Hall is surrounded by farmland on three sides. Garbage and broken bricks and tiles are piled outside the east wall. It seems that this land should have belonged to the Guanyin Hall. The road outside the back door is full of sewage. The gate of the temple was closed tightly, and we knocked on the door vigorously before someone came to open the door. The Guanyin Hall was built in the Wanli tenth year of the Ming Dynasty (1582). There are more than 400 painted sculptures of the Ming Dynasty in the Guanyin Hall. Like other national key cultural relics protection units we have visited on this trip, tourists are not allowed to enter the hall, and the doors and windows are all closed. Fortunately, the security guards We opened a window on the right, and we could see countless small statues of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. This place is as quiet as a deserted place. There is a rather large stage with colorful paintings on the beams and brick and stone carvings on the walls of the foundation. The courtyard is a garden. Old stone lions and stone sculptures can be seen everywhere. There is a long corridor with epitaphs collected from various places on both sides and inlaid on the walls. I was looking at it when the security guard found it and said it was not open.



back door

After leaving the Guanyin Hall, we couldn’t wait for a taxi when we walked to the main road. We had to take an electric tricycle to go to Shangdangmen in the city center. The asking price of 10 yuan was considered cheap. Changzhi was called Shangdang in ancient times. According to Liu Xi's "Shiming": "The party is the place. It is the highest on the mountain, so it is called Shangye." It is also said that "Shangdang is located on the top of Taihang Mountain, with the highest terrain, and the sky is the party. Also." The altitude of Changzhi City is close to 1,000 meters. Shangdang Gate is the gate of Shangdang County Office in Sui Dynasty. Shangdangmen, also known as Lu'an Fuya, was first built in the Kaihuang period of the Sui Dynasty. In the first year of Jinglong in the Tang Dynasty (707 A.D.), when Li Longji was appointed as the Biejia of Luzhou, he built a large number of construction projects in the government office, adding buildings such as Wanghualou and Defeng Pavilion. After he became emperor, he returned here to build Feilong Palace, Shengruixiong, Wangyunxuan and so on. At its peak, there were more than 280 pavilions and palaces. During the Jin and Yuan Dynasties, it was destroyed by war. In the third year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1370), the gate of Shangdang Gate was rebuilt, and the Bell and Drum Tower was added later. What can be seen now is only the Gate Court and the Bell and Drum Tower built in the Ming Dynasty. In 2006, it was selected as the sixth batch of national key cultural relics protection units, so it is not very ornamental.

7560 steps today.

At noon on November 5th, the hotel will be changed and the hotel will be closed.

At 8:30 on November 6th, I took a long-distance bus to Tongtian Gorge after Pingshun Stairs. It was 55 kilometers away from Changzhi East Passenger Transport Station. We will return to Changzhi at 30:30. After we communicated with the driver, the driver agreed to leave at 2:50. Changzhi is free to go to Huguan Taihang Mountain Grand Canyon and Tongtian Gorge during the peak tourist season, but after the National Day holiday, it will be considered an off-season, free tickets will be cancelled, and Changzhi has fewer tourists than Jincheng. Tongtian Gorge is located at the junction of Shanxi and Henan, and to the west is Linzhou Taihang Mountain Grand Canyon. Only the three of us who came by car entered the scenic spot. We walked for an hour in the quiet canyon, passed through Sandie Spring, Shengui Lake and other scenic spots to reach the yacht dock, and the 50 yuan boat ticket went back and forth for 20 minutes. I have seen huge promotional photos of Tongtianshui Gorge at the passenger station and other places. I thought I was taking a boat in a natural lake to see the canyon. In fact, the scenic spot built two dams between the upstream and downstream of the canyon stream. The water is blocked in the middle to form a lake, which is worse than hiking along the stream to see the canyon. If you disembark at the upstream wharf, you can go to Tihongguan, which is already bordered by Linzhou Taihang Mountain. It takes two hours to walk. We have neither time nor energy, so the yacht will return the same way. We went through a tunnel and got to the lower station of the cableway. We bought a two-way ticket for 100 yuan. It was already 12:30 when we took the cable car to the upper station of the cableway. The curved ridge of Tianji Mountain is spectacular, so Tongtian Gorge is also called Tianji Mountain National Geological Park. When we approached the viewing platform, we saw abrupt rocks and an iron viewing platform at the end of the mountain. We were afraid that we would not have time to go to the viewing platform. Take the cable car down the mountain, and there will be a battery car to pick you up from the cableway station to the gate of the scenic spot. The fare is 10 yuan. The time for the departure of the bus has not yet arrived. I saw a wall hanging on the mountainside outside the scenic spot, but there are very few skylights. There are several wall-mounted roads in Pingshun County. In the homework I did, I was going to go to the wall-mounted road in Ruodi Village, Dongsitou Township, but I had to charter a car. I asked taxi drivers in Changzhi, but they all said they didn’t know. "穽" was mistaken for "well", and I couldn't find it on the Gaode map, so I gave up. It is a pity that this trip did not take the Huabi Highway.

Turtle Lake

Pothole

Boat trip to the canyon artificial lake

Tianji Mountain

Tianji Mountain

Back in Changzhi, it was not too late, so I took a taxi to Lu'an City God's Temple. The temple was first built in the 22nd year of the Yuan Dynasty (1285), rebuilt in the 5th year of Hongzhi in the Ming Dynasty (1492), and the 14th year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1834). The main hall and corner hall of the existing Town God's Temple are built in the Yuan Dynasty, the sleeping palace, theater building, and Xuanjian building are built in the Ming Dynasty, and the corridors and ear halls are built in the Qing Dynasty. The Town God's Temple covers an area of ​​12,229 square meters, with a construction area of ​​5,175 square meters. From the entrance of the Hongmen Gate to the last hall, the north-south axis is 408 meters long. It is the largest existing Town God's Temple in China. There are squares and shops on both sides of the Shinto. There are many citizens, but there are few tourists in the temple, which looks empty and quiet.

Epitaph Gallery

Epitaph of the Tang Dynasty


Shanxi's national key cultural relics rank first in the country, with a total of 531, accounting for 1/5 of the country, mainly on the ground. According to China's prefecture-level cities, Yuncheng ranks first with 102 cities; Changzhi ranks third with 73 cities; Jincheng ranks fourth with 72 cities; Jinzhong ranks fifth with 69 cities. Among the top five, only Baoding, Hebei ranked second, with a total of 81 places. "See Shaanxi from the ground, and Shanxi from the ground", which is well deserved. Among the national key cultural relics that have been restored in Shanxi, except for Mount Wutai and other places, most of the Taoist monks were invited out to protect the cultural relics. However, Shanxi's financial resources are weak, and there are still many important cultural relics that are very dilapidated, unrepaired, or even left unattended, and there is a danger of collapse at any time. I am worried.

11018 steps today.

At noon on November 7th, I took a long-distance bus from East Passenger Transport Station to Qiaoshang Township. The fare was 30 yuan, and the provincial road was 79 kilometers away. The bus picked up passengers all the way in the city until it was full. The journey took nearly 3 hours. Qiaoshang Township is 2.8 kilometers away from Huguan Taihang Mountain Grand Canyon Baquanxia Scenic Area. There is a CMB connection in the square. The Baquanxia Hotel we stayed in is only 500 meters away from the bus shelter. It is the best hotel near the scenic spot, with a magnificent appearance , backed by mountains and rivers, the interior decoration is also simple and clear, the room price is 220 yuan, including simple breakfast. But the shower in the bathroom only has a shower curtain, no water retaining strips, and the shower is full of water. Compared with the farmhouse, it is really a difference of fifty steps and a hundred steps. Because the hotel is off-season, there are not many staff members, only our husband and wife are the individual guests, and the central air conditioner is on. Later, an outdoor group of more than 30 people from Jinzhong came, and finally gained some popularity. The hotel temporarily asked for help to cope with it.

On November 8, the weather was fine. There are several scenic spots in Huguan Taihang Mountain Grand Canyon. Baquan Gorge is the best restored one with the most beautiful scenery. We don't plan to go to other places, so we have plenty of time. We don't take the shuttle bus to the scenic spot until 10 am. As soon as you arrive at the gate of the scenic spot, you can see the extraordinary momentum, the mountain is like an iron wall, and there is a cliff elevator on the left. We took a car to the dam, then took a boat to see Gaoxia Pinghu (also formed for the construction of the dam), disembarked, and then walked along the canyon to view the scenery, one bridge, one stone, one drop of water, one step, one scene, one strange canyon. Baquan Gorge is full of water. The entire gorge is 11 kilometers long. There are more than 300 spring sources and more than 30 waterfalls. The essence area is 1.7 kilometers from the pier to the cableway station. There are more than eight springs, and the canyon here is the most beautiful canyon I have ever seen. Shanxi is short of water, but Baquan Gorge has plenty of water, which is a gift from God.

We bought a cruise ship cableway elevator ticket for 160 yuan, which is not expensive. Baquanxia Cableway is the first curved cableway in China. It starts from Baquan Hongfen and ends at Yuhuangyunding. It has a total length of 3,000 meters and a relative height difference of 369 meters. Sitting in the cable car, you can have a panoramic view of the majesty of Taihang and the depth of the canyon.

It took more than an hour to go down from Yuhuangding to Sky City, which is only 500 meters away but has 1,000 steps. On the way, the mountains and rocks you see are rugged, some are like immortals Lingyun, and some are like zodiac signs worshiping the sky, which is full of wit and wit. The most spectacular is Beitianmen. This is a limestone natural bridge. It looks like an elephant trunk at the foot of the mountain. It looks like a Tianmen opening here. We want to wait until the sun goes down to watch the sunset in Tianmen. This is a photo in the introduction of the scenic spot. It is very beautiful. But I still have to wait for two hours, so I gave up. I only blamed me for walking too tightly in the canyon section.

Go down to Sky City, which is a steel structure all-glass building. The glass zenith on the top is a viewing platform. The timid ones should stop. , running at a height of 208 meters, claiming to have created three world records. Get off the elevator and send the battery car to the mountain gate at four o'clock.

Take 13220 steps today, which is the most steps for this trip.



Pothole

Tianmen

Donkey Friends Hiking Trail

Chartered car to Anyang at 6:00 in the morning of November 9th, and arrived in Shanghai at 15:23 by G1813 at 9:05. On that day, Linzhou, Henan, Anyang, and Zhengzhou were severely smoggy and smoggy. Although we traveled in Changzhi, Jincheng, Shanxi for ten days. There will be mild smog for a few days, but mostly fine weather. Farmers rely on the sky to eat; idlers travel, relying on the sky to see the scenery, and God's grace is also.

During this trip to the Taihang Mountains in Changzhi, Jincheng, Shanxi, there were three trips to the canyon and mountain climbing. Although the body was sick, I didn't feel very tired, and the spirit was also supported.

After traveling all over the mountains, Xu Xiake said: "When you come back from the Five Sacred Mountains, you don't look at the mountains, and when you come back from Huangshan Mountain, you don't look at the mountains." In fact, Xu Xiake visited very few famous mountains in North China and the Central Plains. Therefore, I changed Xu Xiake's two sentences into two words, "When you return from the Five Sacred Mountains, you don't look at the mountains, and when you return from Taihang, you don't look at the mountains."

The ancients chanted the Taihang Mountain poems, most of which lamented the danger of the mountain road and the difficulty of the journey. The most famous one is Cao Cao's "Bitter Cold Journey". This is a poem from the Song Dynasty, without any sense of sadness. The Wanzi City mentioned in the poem is a pass on the "Yangchang Slope Road" in Taihang Xing, one of the Eight Paths of Taihang. It is located in Jinmiaopu Town, Zezhou County, Jincheng City, Shanxi Province. Wancheng Village. I originally planned to charter a car, but a friend from Henan said that the Taihang Mountains were seriously damaged. The road was repaired and the original appearance was lost. I suggested going to Baijing. The ancient roads are well preserved, but I forgot to bring the book "The Road to Taihang Mountains" when I went out. I don’t know the details. For the direction, there is no place name of Baijing on the Gaode map, so I didn't go there either.

over the Taihang Mountains

[Song] Xu Fan

The vast and distant trees are separated by smoke, and the west wind shakes the clothes of the guests.
The mountain rain is not clear, the air is humid, and the stream is almost exhausted, and the sound of water is faint.
Huiche Temple is ancient and green, and Wanzi City is barren and sparse.
Cherish Di Gong's thousand-year intention, and see Bai Yunfei again on the horse's head.
The road goes around the sheep's intestines, and the mountains are magnificent.
Raising the head, the sun, the moon, and the middle sky are near, and the sky and the five mountains are as far as the eye can see.
Laughing at the salt car Qi Jie, who pities the thorny thorn and the phoenix habitat.
I want to stay in the Zen room of an ancient temple, and I am happy to see the monks return to the west of the sun.

2019.11.14