"In the country of Kusha, there are more than a thousand miles on Friday, with a lot of sand and moraine, and little loam... There are hundreds of garan houses and more than ten thousand monks. They learn the Hinayana teachings and say that everything has a department...''—— Xuanzang · Bianji "Da Tang Western Regions" Volume 12 Shasha Kingdom was formerly known as Shule, today's Kashgar. Master Xuanzang crossed the Pamirs, from Taxkorgan to the east all the way to Shache County, and Kashgar is located in Shache The northwest side of the car is not on the way of the master’s return to the east. Kashgar, maybe the master has not been there in person, and belongs to one of the 28 countries that he heard about. Kashgar, anyone who has been here prefers to call it the earlier name Kashgar. It sounded as melodious and long as the call to prayer. When I came to Kashgar, the wind and sand that is common in spring and the light rain that is rare in southern Xinjiang also came. There is no blue sky, no soft sunshine, and no Hassan. A kite to chase. This is the famous city in Central Asia, the Kashgar I long for.
Finally, I stepped into the Id Kah Mosque, stepped into its three minarets and three crescent arches, and browsed like searching. I found that inside the tiled arches, the mosque was not as gorgeous and grand as I imagined. On both sides of the courtyard The religious scripture hall is also simpler than imagined. This is the largest mosque in Xinjiang, and it is a place that links the soul of Muslims. Among the tree shadows, apart from tourists, there is no one who worships silently. Maybe I came at the wrong time, maybe Muslim religion has turned into life itself, maybe in life, religion no longer needs more rituals, maybe their reliance and longing for Allah has been deeply hidden in their hearts.


In the plain chapel, the only decoration is this tapestry that symbolizes the great unity of 56 ethnic groups.

I stayed away from the bustling market district and walked through the maze-like old alleys. The sudden spring rain and fine sand persuaded people to go home. The tranquility belongs to Kashgar at this time. All kinds of flower windows and wooden doors, carefully planted roses, pomegranates, figs, and creepers in front of the gates of each house, door to door, window to window, a big garden-like family, every shot is emotional Xiaojing, stop and go and take pictures, how much I love these alleys, Kashgar, the poems flowing out of the millennium alleys, and the paintings depicted.

There is a slight cold wind flowing in the alleys of the old city. I chased Hassan to Kashgar, and Hassan ran away with the kite. Running over, turned around and smiled shyly.

There are so many children here that I was caught off guard. In the depths of the alley, I could see the elder sister leading the younger brother, and the elder brother leading the younger sister. Groups of children were playing, and there was no adult watching over them.


The white-bearded and blue-eyed old man kills time with a pot of tea on the balcony of the century-old teahouse, while the fat and laid-back housewife downstairs walks slowly past the stall. There are fragrant and burnt naan cakes stacked neatly on the stall; the stuffing of baked buns is mutton and onions, and the outside is baked to a golden brown. With yogurt, cold skin is a meal. I cherish every barbecue stall and every noodles. I want to try as many delicacies here as possible, but every portion here is too big, too big, rice sausages, noodle lungs, sheep heads, and haggis are still waiting for me Woolen cloth.

There is a story about the Tower of Babel recorded in the Bible. At the beginning, mankind united and decided to build a tower that reached the sky. The tower approached the heaven day by day. God was furious, so he confused the human language, making it impossible for humans to communicate with each other. , Contradictions arose everywhere, so the Tower of Babel ended in failure.
The language barrier in Xinjiang caused a lot of inconvenience. The young taxi driver didn’t even know Mandarin. I had to post pictures on Baidu wherever I went so that he could understand. Language barriers will inevitably cause barriers. In my country, you are 70 years old, and you are also your people. Why don't you promote Mandarin here? Going to Kashgar is like going abroad, hey.

Yusuf Hass Hajifu was a famous Uighur poet and scholar in the eleventh century. He wrote the long narrative poem "Fu Le Wisdom" in Uyghur, creating the first of the ancient rhythmic couplets in Turkic poetry. The poet believes that knowledge is a means to understand the world, and knowledge is power, leaving behind "human beings have become taller because of knowledge, and because of knowledge, they have unlocked the mysteries of nature", "wisdom is like a lamp in the dark, knowledge will make you Light up in the heart" and many other verses.
The outer wall of Yusufu's tomb is covered with tidy and fine ceramic tiles, and the pure blue tone is extremely eye-catching in the sun.

The famous Xiangfei Tomb is actually the cemetery of Apahoja, the leader of the Baishan Sect of Islam, and his family. Later, it was named after the legend that Emperor Qianlong's Xiangfei was buried here.

In China park, "Qinnibak" is its previous life, and "Qiniwak Hotel" is its present life. On a sweltering afternoon, I approached Chinnibaker and entered Catherine Margotney's home in China. In "A Diplomat's Wife's Memories of Kashgar", she described Qinnibak's morning and dusk in this way: "At dawn, I was often awakened by the mullah's call, listening to the voice calling believers to be loyal to Allah Floating in the quiet and cool air, drifting across the wilderness... ". "I will never forget those summer evenings in Kashgar. The sunset was so beautiful that the whole land was bathed in golden dusk. The dusk deepened until after the sunset fell into the mountains, the whole sky was full of Orange..."
This is what Qinnibak looked like back then: "Our garden is very big and beautiful. The garden is divided into two parts, high and low, and you can walk from the low part to the high place along a step. The high garden has fruit trees, and there are Vegetables of every kind. Fruits of all kinds abound here, peaches, plums, figs, pomegranates, and white or black mulberries. The lower gardens are lush with willows, elms, poplars...  ··". Today, the garden is gone, only two big elm trees planted by Catherine are luxuriantly guarding this small building, guarding the former foothold of Sven Hedin and Stein.
I walked out of "Chiniwak", but I couldn't get out of the Chinese garden called "Chinibak".

D8. Wensu—Kashgar Old Town, Aiti Temple, century-old teahouse. Kashgar
D9. Kaicheng Ceremony, Jade Sufu Mazar, International Grand Bazaar, Kashgar Museum, Xiangfei Tomb, Qinnibaker. Kashgar