sequence
"Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon" are Dali's famous four scenes of "wind, flowers, snow and moon". In the past, when I came to Dali, I would find a homestay by the Erhai Lake to stay quietly for a few days, and missed the far away from Erhai Lake. The "Utopia" such as Shaxi Ancient Town and Weishan Ancient City did not allow me to slowly experience Dali life until these trips, plus my favorite Shuanglang Ancient Town and the iconic Dali Ancient City, these four ancient cities and ancient towns are the treasures of Dali , Romance! Dali is like a "Kingdom of Dao". There is no need to plan too many travel routes, just find a point and walk around like a compass. Every time I come here, I can't help sighing "wow", just because it is so beautiful, whether it is the light of Jesus or the scattered blush in the clouds, it is very like love. You love me, and you are willing to spread your beauty. , and I would like to appreciate.
About the itinerary
D1: Lijiang→Dali→Riding along the Erhai Ecological Corridor→Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple→Xizhou→Shuanglang→Cangshan Natural Image Museum
D2: Hotel → Shaxi → Pioneer Academy → live in Shaxi
D3: Hotel→Fengyu (Tuibu Hall)→Weishan Ancient City→Live in Weishan (Weishan Liang Family Courtyard)
D4: Hotel → Weishan Ancient City → Wenhua Academy → Dali (90 kilometers away, about 1h20mim)
Erhai Ecological Corridor Cycling
The Erhai Lake Ecological Corridor, with a 27.5-kilometer scenic line, can only be played in depth by combining three methods of hiking, cycling and sightseeing battery cars! There are many more beautiful curves than the S curve of Fenxi River. Looking up at Cangshan Mountain in the west, there is no ink painting of Qianqiu, and in the east, there is no stringed Wanguqin in Erhai Lake. As far as the eye can see, the sea and the sky are the same color, and the buildings on Haidong Mountain are vividly visible.
There are cafes, homestays, and various internet celebrity photo spots during the ride, and you don’t have to worry about going to the toilet. There are mobile public toilets and road signs showing the public toilets in the village. The later the time, the more flying insects on the road, which is annoying Bug friends suggested ending the ride early.
When you are tired from riding, find a nearby grassland to lie in the shade of a tree to enjoy the cool and rest, and look at the sparkling Erhai Lake and the beautiful Cangshan Mountain. Only nature can arrange such beautiful scenery and enjoy a quiet and beautiful time.
Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple
Stepping into the gate of the scenic spot with both feet, raising your head slightly, what you see are green trees, a vibrant look. In the middle is a straight and spacious landscape avenue. Looking around, not far away is the Three Towers Square. The Three Towers Temple of Chongsheng Temple is a temple built by Quan Fengyou, the tenth king of Nanzhao Kingdom in the late Nanzhao Kingdom. At the beginning, Nanzhao first built a large square tower with dense eaves "Qianxun Tower", and then built octagonal south and north small towers. So why are these three pagodas built? You must say that it is to promote Buddhism, but there is another important reason besides this. In ancient times, Dali was "the country with many floods." There is such a record in the ancient book "Jin Shi Cui Bian": "It is said that the dragon's nature respects the pagoda and fears the Peng. Dali used to be Longze, so it was towned for this reason." Therefore, Three towers were built.
In fact, if you want to see Chongsheng Temple, you must first look at the Three Pagodas. After walking out of the first half of the scenic spot, the scenic spot is restored and reconstructed. Passing the Tianwang Hall, Maitreya Hall, and the Eleven-faced Guanyin Hall, each place is quite shocking, and the most shocking one is the Daxiong Hall. With a height of 26 meters, it is the largest Daxiong Hall in Buddhist temples in China. Moreover, the Buddha statues in the hall are arranged according to the "Shakyamuni Buddha Meeting Picture" in "Zhang Shengwen's Painting of Sanskrit Statues".
Dali has a lot of water, and seeing the reflection of the three pagodas is also a very interesting thing. First, in the small pool in front of the three pagodas platform, the water is shallow, but the three pagodas of Cangshan Mountain can all enter the pool. The flowers and trees outside the pool are flourishing. The tower is moving and still, one new and one old, full of business. Behind the three pagodas is the Juying Pool, which is built according to the shape of the Erhai Lake. The water in the pool is green, and there are acacia trees on the high side of the pool, reflecting the six towers in the pool, which is very beautiful.
Xizhou Ancient Town
I have always liked the ancient town of Xizhou. For hundreds of years, the ancient town of Xizhou has been an important node on the ancient tea-horse road. Up to now, a large number of traditional buildings of Ming and Qing Dynasties have been preserved, coupled with the beautiful pastoral scenery and the scenery of Erhai Lake, which makes it unique. In the south of Xizhou Ancient Town, a section of country road between Sixia Village and Heyicheng Village is straight, and there are no trees or telephone poles on both sides, making the surrounding beautiful farmland and the distant Cangshan Mountain and the vast Erhai Lake Form a 360-degree magnificent landscape.
Xizhou Ancient Town is located 18 kilometers north of Dali Ancient City, with Erhai Lake in the east and Cangshan Mountain in the west. Entering Xizhou Ancient Town, the white walls and gray tiles hide the leisure of Dali, and the slow time flows here quietly. Xizhou Ancient Town is like a simple and elegant city, more like a huge museum of residential buildings, exquisite houses, The majestic and elegant cornices, bucket arches, finely painted patterns and stone carvings are the crystallization of the wisdom of the Bai people.
The Corner Building is a landmark building. Anyone who comes to Xizhou will come here to check in. Sifang Street is the center of Xizhou Town, and it is also the most lively place. The skin has peeled off, revealing the yellowed adobe, the roof is covered with weeds, and the wooden doors are also faded and old. The years always leave traces for future generations to search for. Occasionally, one or two old people in traditional ethnic costumes will push open the old wooden doors. Walking out, looking at you with calm eyes or a smile on your face, it feels like the warm sunshine wrapping the ancient town.
There are many old courtyards like this in Xizhou, which have been turned into inns and cafes, so that more people can see its beauty. The alleys in the ancient town are so narrow and winding, and the simple and quiet courtyards are full of various handicrafts. Tie-dyeing, in the streets and alleys, the banlangen blue is extremely eye-catching, publicity and low-key coexist, I like this feeling very much, I walked into an old workshop and learned tie-dyeing with the old lady of the Bai nationality, and became a quiet craftsman, stitching into the quietness of the years good.
Jiama Print Art Museum
Jiama Printmaking Art Museum is located in Sifang Street, Xizhou Town. It has convenient transportation and travel. It operates a coffee area and Jiama Printmaking Experience Area. Jiama Printmaking is a kind of engraved woodblock painting widely spread among Yunnan folks. Important non-heritage tradition. The production method is woodblock engraving, with Yang engraved lines as the main technique, thick lines close to the surface, and ink printing after wood engraving, resulting in simple and extensive lines, mixed vertical and horizontal lines, virtual and real changes, harmonious and unified, simple and simple artistic effect .
The five Dali dramas performed by five old-fashioned TV sets are "Vatican monk enlightening Xinuluo", "sacrificing iron pillars", "burning Songming building", "Tianbao war", "Cangshan alliance".
Generally speaking, a armored horse is a horse in armor. The armored horse has a very important function. It is a messenger between humans and gods, which is very critical. In every folk activity and blessing activity, we will match with armored horses. There are armored horse gods, ghost horses, chasing armored horses, and armored horses with various contents. Each armored horse represents a certain function.
Shuanglang Ancient Town
Shuanglang, located on the northeast coast of Erhai Lake, is a provincial-level historical and cultural town in Yunnan Province, and "the first town with beautiful scenery in the Canghai". It is a somewhat peculiar place, surrounded by mountains on three sides, facing water on one side, a long stone road runs through the town, and a faint fragrance of frankincense fans wafts from an inadvertently opened door... The clock slows down here, so that People also slowly change from loneliness to admiration of quiet romance.
Here, you can face the Erhai Lake, smell the warm smell under the sun, blow the cool breeze from the lake, and quietly listen to the sound of the lake beating the fishing boats and the shore. You can sit with a few friends by the Erhai Lake, drink coffee, have afternoon tea, listen to songs and chat for an afternoon. At this time, the unique plateau sunshine in Yunnan will bask in your back and make you feel warm. You just want to stay by the beach. Not going anywhere.
Cangshan Natural Image Museum
The museum is located in the mountains of Yinqiao Town, next to the Shuangyuan River, one of the eighteen streams. You can hear the gurgling stream when viewing the exhibition. It is the personal museum of Mr. Xi Zhinong. The museum is very large, and each floor has its own space. Pay attention. Different areas are also divided into exhibition halls of different types of animals, and the addresses where these photos were found and recorded are marked, such as birds from Yunnan, insects from Guangxi, reptiles from Guizhou... "Going to the zoo is a serious matter ", then come to the Natural Image Museum to look at natural history, it is a serious matter to gain knowledge.
Shaxi Ancient Town
Shaxi Ancient Town is different from any ancient town. It is located in Jianchuan, Dali, Yunnan, between Dali and Lijiang. Only after you have been there will you know a place that you still want to come to. People with bridges and flowing water, ancient roads with westerly winds and thin horses, and heartbroken people at the end of the world when the sun sets. The landscape picture composed of the writer Ma Zhiyuan's "Tianjingsha · Autumn Thoughts", with withered vines and old trees, small bridges and flowing water, ancient roads, thin horses, and houses, is the most authentic portrayal of Shaxi Ancient Town.
Shaxi used to be an important post station on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and it retains the original architectural style. The entire street is paved with red sandstone slabs. There is a towering old tree in the center as a unique landmark here. The ancient stage and Xingjiao Temple echo each other. Its superb architectural techniques are breathtaking. There are many shops all around, and the three ancient alleys lead to all directions, and every market is very lively.
The ancient theater was built in the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty. It is divided into three floors. The bottom floor is the shop, the middle floor is the stage, and the third floor is the Kuixing Pavilion dedicated to Kuixing. During national festivals, the Bai people of the whole town come to the ancient theater to sing and dance. It is the most lively The most famous one is the prince meeting on February 8th of the lunar calendar every year.
The Zhaimen built with yellow mud adobe, called "Jiezimen" by the local villagers, truly presents to people the original appearance of the ancient city of Tibet, the market gate of the tea and salt supply in Northwest Yunnan, and the sound of passing horseshoes It seems to be able to hear the echo of history, like walking through a mysterious ancient road.
Many ancient buildings here have well preserved the previous style. Most of the houses of the residents are mainly the structure of the courtyard behind the former shop. The permanent residents of the Sideng block are arranged along the south, north and east three streets and alleys, layer upon layer. Stacked, the alleys diverge, patchwork, or "three squares and one screen wall", "four in five patios", or "zooming corner building", "front shop and back courtyard", it looks full of ancient flavor.
In Shaxi, you can find a restaurant, order a cup of coffee and a book, taste it carefully, and read it slowly. It is very quiet and simple. The streets and alleys are clean and tidy. You can experience the life of Bai people here, which is very harmonious and pure. I like it so much.
Yujin Bridge is the only way for the Bai people who have lived in Shaxi for generations to go to the fields, work and do business. The stone slabs of the bridge are glowing green and full of potholes. It bears the weight of the ancient town of Shaxi. The history of the hotel welcomes and sends off year after year, and there is a proper balance between the old and the rustic and the hustle and bustle.
When the morning mist enveloped the entire ancient town, I stood under the bridge to see the Shaxi people carrying baskets, driving cattle, and horses, and seeing the laughing, lazy, and mediocre outsiders walking across the ancient bridge. , It's absolutely perfect.
Pioneer Shaxi Baizu Bookstore
Going out of the east gate of the ancient town and going up two or three miles along the Heihui River to Beilong Village, there is hidden a very special spiritual home that only the young people can find——Pioneer Shaxi Baizu Bookstore. It is said that it was rebuilt from an old granary, and it is composed of a pioneer book warehouse, a pioneer poetry coffee shop, and a pioneer poetry tower. The architectural design is based on the traditional buildings of the Bai nationality, adding some fashionable and modern architectural materials and elements, which has a great sense of architectural space, especially in the warm winter sun. It is not only a bookstore, but also a variety of books. , and many more. In addition to some local chronicles of Dali and local chronicles of Yunnan, there are also various books from all corners of the country, filling this sunny space.
Pioneer Bookstore Shaxi Baizu Bookstore, a must-see place for travel in Shaxi, a place where you can stay and read quietly in the sun for some time, a good rural construction cultural and creative travel product.
Fengyu Ancient Town
Fengyu Town is located at the source of Erhai Lake, behind the Yunnong Peak of Diancang Mountain, in the southwest of Eryuan County, 18 kilometers southwest of Eryuan County. It is a national historical and cultural town. They are basically on the main street of Fengyu Town. If you look more, there are many very simple and simple buildings. They are really very old buildings. It is also good to know more about them. The bluestone lanes, clear flowing water, ancient Bai folk houses and ancient pagodas in the streets and lanes all form the unique style of Fengyu Ancient Town. It's a pity that the itinerary was relatively tight this time. I didn't go into the ancient town. I only checked in Tuibutang, Tianma Thatched Cottage, Zengzeng's Bookstore, and the Air Rice Field Theater. This is how the trip always leaves some regrets and come back next time.
Tuibu Hall is composed of two major architectural parts, Tianma Thatched Cottage and Tuibu Hall. There are small library, Fengyu product exhibition hall, Fengyu water cultural landscape, "Tianma" art installation and creative viewing pavilion in the courtyard, integrating cultural creativity and art. Implantation, leisure vacation and other functions are integrated.
According to reports, up to now, Tuibutang has received dozens of "big coffees" from France, the United Kingdom, the United States, Finland and other countries. Famous scholar Yu Dan and famous musician Li Jian have also visited Tuibutang many times.
The rice fields in the air are Fengyu's famous spectacle, where seedlings are planted on the roof. In this sunken public space, rows of ancient pear trees continue to grow wildly towards the sun, and the sky, earth, and buildings form a harmonious composition. It is quiet and simple, and it can be called the spiritual hometown of people. The theater is a one-story building made of reinforced concrete, with no walls on three sides, one side connected to the hillside, and rice planted on the roof. Walking along the steps to the lower floor, strolling in the overhead building, it seems that time and space are intertwined.
Weishan Ancient City
I have been to Dali many times, and the ancient city of Weishan is the one that is most likely to be forgotten. The ancient city of Weishan may not be as famous as the ancient city of Lijiang and Dali, but as the origin of the Nanzhao Kingdom and the birthplace of Nanzhao culture, Nanzhao The story of the ancient capital begins here, and the prototype of "Legend of Sword and Fairy" was also born here. The taste of Huoba (pa) meat bait shreds is the most authentic here. The ancient city of "Weishan Ancient City".
The chessboard pattern when the city was built more than 600 years ago, the ancient city still remains relatively intact. The layout of the city is exquisite and the architectural structure is rigorous. It is known as "one of the best-preserved Ming and Qing ancient buildings in China".
When you arrive in the ancient city, you can go shopping like this! Weishan Ancient City and its surrounding cultural relics and historical sites gather together, Nanzhao Cultural Square, Mengyang Park, Confucian Temple, Xinggong Building, Liu Family Courtyard, Ke Family Courtyard, Nanzhao Museum, Yuhuang Pavilion and Wenhua Academy, Weishan Snack Street , Jinshi Square, Gongchen Building, Shi Family Courtyard, Xu Family Courtyard, Folklore Museum, Diguan Square, Literature Square, Miss Liang's House, and Nanzhao No. 8 Courtyard Liu's House, etc.
Facing the warm sunshine, the shops on both sides of the ancient street began their day-to-day business in the sunshine. Rice noodle shop, coffee shop, antique shop, embroidery shop, grocery store, barber shop, inn... Open the wooden door with a squeak, and welcome the warm sunshine. These small shops facing the street are the life elements of the fresh scenery of the ancient street. The old facades hide the past time, and the tie-dye products hung under the eaves are full of grass-colored greenery. Say hello to passers-by, or sit lazily in front of the shop on a bamboo table and grass mound to enjoy the warm sunshine over the ancient city.
Walking into the ancient city, even the doors and windows of the houses on the side of the road carry their own stories, silent in the wind and dust. You can enjoy the sense of tranquility brought by the familiar ancient style, while appreciating the historical charm of the ancient city, while living in an authentic way... The whole ancient city, looking around, is refreshing, every day A calm and leisurely pace will turn into a beautiful scenery!
Weishan Mandarin Academy
Walking about 200 meters east from Gongchen Tower, on the north side of the street, there is an exquisite and elegant small square, which is the Academy Square. There are three main landscapes in the Academy Square from east to west. On the easternmost side facing Wenhua Academy, there is a landscape stone, on which is inscribed four big characters of "Academy Square" in red. To the east of Academy Square, there is a large group of simple and exquisite buildings, which is the famous Wenhua Academy in Weishan. The predecessor of Wenhua Academy was the Yuhuang Pavilion, which was the largest palace in Weishan in the Qing Dynasty. It was built in the Ming Dynasty. It covers an area of more than 4,000 square meters. It is composed of nine courtyards of different sizes, including Square and Kuixing Pavilion.
A hundred years of wind and rain, a hundred years of vicissitudes, the dead are like this! The exquisite buildings standing in the academy and the scholarly heritage left behind are the best evidence of the famous state of literature, and also the precious historical and cultural wealth left to us by the predecessors. The once vicissitudes of life on the land, the wonderful pens of the past.
Kuixing Pavilion, a tall and exquisite building in the academy, looks like a learned and energetic wise man, gently looking down on everyone who walks into the academy. Standing in front of the library, imagining the big bookcases full of thread-bound ancient books, imagining the appearance of students in long robes and mandarin jackets reciting poems in the fragrance of books, a kind of passion that also wants to read poems and books can't help filling my heart. Every road between the buildings in the academy is planted with high and low scattered flowers and trees. Coupled with the background of flower corridors, tree walls, pools and rockery, wandering among them is like being in a picturesque Jiangnan garden.
Let us calm down and slowly chew, absorb and digest these delicacies of history and culture.
about food
Recommended Shaxi Food: Seeing Shaxi for the First Time
Walking on Sideng Street, we saw two unique wooden horses at the door of a store, which attracted us to lift the curtain and enter the store to find out. This restaurant is called "First See Shaxi". The restaurant is one of the most delicious Bai ethnic style restaurants among the restaurants in Shaxi. The ham there is very delicious, and every dish is very delicious. The boss is a man with a lot of stories, raising a docile and friendly big golden retriever. If you meet the boss who is free, have a cup of tea with him, chat with him, and listen carefully to the life philosophy of this cultural person who loves Shaxi and takes root in Shaxi.
Weishan Ancient City
When you walk into the ancient city of Weishan, let your taste buds enjoy the comfort of warmth from morning till night. In the morning, the fragrant Huoba pork bait shreds, a piece of noodles, millet cakes, and thin soybean noodles; at noon, the roll noodles, oil noodles, cold shrimp ice noodles, and beef rolling; I had a great time eating.
Weishan food recommendation: Master Kun's restaurant
The restaurant is opened in an old house, and the architecture of the house is very characteristic, including diced eggplant, hot and sour ribs, vegetarian chicken nuggets, charred liver with net oil, Weishan snowflake beef, scrambled eggs with black truffle, bacon sausage, bait cubes, and cabbage Ball ball.
postscript
1. The four seasons in Dali are like spring, the temperature is between 10 degrees and 25 degrees, basically regardless of the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter. The weather in Dali has a large temperature difference between morning and evening.
2. The altitude of Dali is about 2100 meters. Please try to avoid strenuous exercise after arriving in Dali. The weather in Dali is dry in autumn and the ultraviolet rays are strong. Please pay attention to sun protection.
3. Dali Ancient Town is about 110 kilometers away from Shaxi Ancient Town, about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car
Dali Ancient Town is about 70 kilometers away from Fengyu Ancient Town, about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car
Dali Ancient City is about 70 kilometers away from Weishan Ancient City, about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car