There is only one Tibet between me and the world

Perhaps, the struggle around everyone is other people's poems and distant places~

One plateau, one Tibet, one hundred thousand frontiers, five hundred mountains and rivers, three thousand Buddha songs, four short messages of me, my miserable hometown besieged by heavy snow,

Two temple gates, six mills, nine distant places, who is the eleventh flushed ghee queen,

Four herdsmen, three lamas, two blacksmiths, there is only one Tibet between me and the world~                 

Going back to Tibet again, carrying an Ali dream~

To the west of Tibet with an average altitude of 4500+, that is the roof of the roof of the world, and there is the center of the world - "Kang Rinpoche"

Following Haba’s summit in June, the pilgrimage to the second mountain “Kang Rinpoche” in 2019 stepped into the territory of Tibet again on 9.21~

The secrets about "Kang Rinpoche" are here: https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/EcljNQbQfZo4BVeQDGuObg

ps: 1. In the above two sections, individual photos are from Murphy's sharing!

       2. The following travel notes are quite long, and visitors can read excerpts from the "Travel Notes Catalogue" in the lower left corner of the browsing page. Thanks for attention! Thanks for reading!

D0- Limit test (9.20/ already on the road~)

In order to set off with my friends in Shunde, I chose Guangzhou to fly to Tibet this time. I thought: From Shenzhen (take) subway-(transfer) Guangzhou-Shenzhen high-speed rail-(change) Guangzhou subway, you can seamlessly connect and go directly to Baiyun Airport. As everyone knows, when the high-speed rail was delayed for more than an hour, I had no choice but to squeeze into a passing car, carrying big bags and small bags and running all the way, and almost scrapped the two-way ticket.

ps: 1. I learned later that since the operation of Shenzhen North Railway Station, due to circuit failures, for the first time, large-scale trains have been seriously delayed.

       2. Due to time and waiting for luggage, I gave up the hotel I booked in Xi'an, and stayed at the airport for a few hours. .

D1- Go back to Tibet (9.21/Lhasa see old friends~)

At around 11:00 noon on September 21, I returned to Lhasa again and thanked the pick-up brother for the hada gift. Tashi Dele! ! !

Around 1:30 in the afternoon, return to the hotel where you stayed in Lhasa. I just finished the check-in procedures, and I didn't have time to tidy myself up (two days and one night, no sleep or wash), so I hurried downstairs to meet the great god in Tibet who was waiting to get together again—Du Ge!

! !! Hehe, do you guys still remember that guy from Hangzhou who was full of artistic atmosphere mentioned in my Xinjiang travel notes?

The travel notes were written because of them, but I didn't expect that the chance to reunite would come so soon~

You have traveled around all the year round and chose such a wandering life. Behind this superficial comfort and casualness, there is great courage and pursuit. I think I can't do it for the time being, there are too many things I can't let go~

I thought to myself that I would spend the next three days resting in Lhasa, and there would be many opportunities to get together again, so I hurriedly had a light meal with Du Ge, and then went back to the hotel to rest.

ps: On this day, other team members of the Zhuanshan Team of Ali Great Northern Line also arrived in Lhasa one after another.

D2- Lhasa rest (9.22/ team gathering ~ )

Since I am entering Tibet for the second time, I do not plan to go to Lhasa (Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Sera Monastery...) these places I have checked in this time. During this unscheduled time, you can make an appointment with your friends, go around the Jokhang Temple, see the devout believers, and find a sweet teahouse to sit down, drink tea, and chat about life~ 

If you can’t hold back, you can also go to Bugong Square to see the great gods who made blockbuster movies with a bottle of water~

! !! Brother Feng, the last member of the Zhuanshan team on the Ali Great North Line, arrived in Lhasa by train at 7:00 p.m. on the 22nd. It was learned that he was in good physical condition all the way into Tibet. After getting off the car, he had no other discomfort for the time being. Therefore, it was temporarily decided to arrange the group meeting before the team's departure at the Gangga Naiquzang Restaurant on Barkhor Street. The elegant seats on the roof can overlook the crowds of Barkhor Street and the night view of Bugong Palace.

To be honest, this is the first large gathering of the team, and I am quite looking forward to it. After all, it is the first time for everyone to meet. They come from different cities and gather here with different stories. There will be a journey of more than ten days later. Thinking about what kind of person they would be? What kind of stories will there be along the way? What kind of journey will it present? ...

Well, at nine o'clock in the evening, the partners came by appointment. We didn't have too many procedures, and we only made a brief introduction and understanding of each other. After a meal, although there was not much communication, there was no restraint and distance as imagined. After all, everyone has been in the group for so long before departure, so they are quite familiar with each other.

As for the identity information of the partners, I will only give a brief introduction: 3 men are from Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and 3 sisters are from Guangdong; 4 are born in the 1980s, and 2 are born in the 90s; There is also Ma Yun's Ali "brother". As for their respective identities, in the following itinerary, you can guess~

ps: It is a pity that no group photo was taken on the night of the first gathering. The above photos were taken after the trip by Jugang Garnaiqu.

D3- Ready to go (9.23/ assembly completed, rest completed, purchase completed~)

Today is the last day for everyone to rest. Considering that other team members are entering Tibet for the first time, they need a full rest. On the subsequent chartered journey, the task of purchasing the food supplies needed fell on me alone.

Well, taking advantage of the last day of rest, I have to make an appointment with Du Ge, and then go to corruption. Let’s have a wave of Tibetan hotpot~

ps: During the rest period, other team members are free to arrange, and they need to gather at the designated time and place tomorrow.

D4- Itinerary starts (9.24/Lhasa-Shigatse/380km/altitude about: 3800M)

——Itinerary reference is as follows:

The Zhuanshan group of the Ali Great North Line, two vehicles including 8 drivers, departed on time from Lhasa at 9:00 in the morning~

Since we left Lhasa, we walked south along the winding road along the Yarlung Zangbo River. We first passed a viewing platform of the Yarlung River, and then crossed the 4990m Gangbala Pass, and came to the viewing platform of Yanghu Lake.

[Yamdrok Yongcuo]—referred to as Yanghu Lake, together with Mapang Yongcuo and Namtso, it is also known as the three major sacred lakes in Tibet. At the Gangbala Pass, you can overlook Yanghu Lake. When illuminated at different times, it will show different levels and extremely rich blue.

As the closest holy lake to Lhasa, most of the play routes will check in here. If you want to take pictures on the viewing platform, you need to buy a ticket. We didn’t think it was necessary, so we passed by in a hurry, and then drove to a stop on the mountainside of Yanghu Lake (it was only repaired this year), took pictures, and walked around~

From the stop, along the road on the edge of Yanghu Lake, we continue to advance in the picturesque scenery. After crossing the 4330-meter Smila Pass on the way, we came to the ice tongue of the Karola Glacier. Originally, I wanted to take a small road to find out what happened on the back side of the glacier, but when I got halfway, it was impossible to pass due to road construction, so I had to go back the same way. .

Speaking of Carola, I remembered the fight with the security guard who sold the ticket because of the tickets here last year. Now all that is still vivid in my mind, and I have mixed feelings in my heart. At that time, we had just parked the car, none of the people got out of the car, and we didn’t take any photos, so we just looked up, and when we were about to leave, we were surrounded by a group of guards and forced to buy a ticket. . I thought to myself that this kind of passing scenic spot is still the only way to go to Shigatse. We didn't get off the car and didn't take pictures. We just passed by. Why should we buy tickets? ? At that time, we insisted not to buy, and the two sides staged a round of war of words.Forcibly turned our Shandong girl into a high-profile, and later went to the Everest base camp to inhale 8 bottles of oxygen. Our sister Min will never forget this incident!

Playing all the way and flying all the way, we arrived in Shigatse after 7 o'clock in the evening. And the Tashilhunpo Monastery site in today's itinerary plan, because it has passed the latest time to enter the temple, I missed it again~

The greatest charm of travel is that there are many unknowns on the road~

No, the first stop of Ali's asceticism gave us a "dismissal",

Shigatse, after all, is the second largest city in Tibet, why did we encounter a power outage in half of the city? ?

——After the candlelight dinner, there was still no electricity when I returned to the hotel, so the penance began~

——Going back to Shigatse and living in Shangkeyou again, there are different stories~

D5- All the way to the west (9.25/ Shigatse-Saga/ 450km/ altitude: about 4500M)

Speaking of Shigatse in Tibet, in addition to Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, it also has another name called "the hometown of highland barley in the world". In the hearts of the Tibetan people, highland barley is a symbol of auspiciousness, as well as a warm and beautiful blessing.

After leaving Shigatse, we saw a busy scene shortly after we drove along Highway 318. The wind blows the wheat waves, and looking around, the golden area brings not only visual pleasure, but also a joy of harvest. At this time, our little friends are also involved in it and have fun~

It stands to reason that in the itinerary of the southern Ali line, if you do not detour to Mount Everest, but come out from Shigatse and go straight to the Xinzang line to Saga, this day is considered the least scenic spot to speak of. But I never thought that we would spend a long time on the edge of a "famous" Langcuo Lake~

Perhaps, it is those places that are not expected to bring you different excitement~

Due to the speed limit on the road section, we climbed to a hillside on the side of the road while the driver stopped to rest, and performed a round of "love triangle"~

Hahaha, I seem to be having a bit of fun on the road today, which makes the "wonderful" in the back almost powerless~

When we arrived in Saga, it was already past 10 o'clock in the evening, and the hotels that had been booked earlier were all empty, and the hotels that had been entrusted to the advance troops were already full. In such a big Saga County, our two cars swept back and forth twice, and almost slept on the street. In the end, I spent 800 oceans and stayed in a bad hotel with no hot water. I couldn't wash my hands, so I just spent the night.

Well, in my itinerary plan, the two county towns of Shigatse and Saga along the Ali Ring Road are, in principle, the places with the best chance of taking a hot bath. As a result, one has no electricity and the other has no water. My bath And so the dream fell through. However, my aunt will come to visit again. I will live in Taqin tomorrow night, and I want to take a bath. The chances are even slimmer. Thinking about it, it is really sad~

Interesting broadcast - Saga's Adventures

——Insert a schedule update of "Hidden Drug Companion Group"~

Today, the group seems to have exploded. After reading hundreds of messages, each group is telling their own bitterness and helplessness. I learned that Saga turned out to be such a "magic"!

Before that, let me first introduce the situation of each group in the group: 2019 Tibet Station, released since the end of July "There are about 40 people in the group before departure. They are: Me/Amy "AliGreat Northern Line Zhuanshan Group", Star "AliCentral North Line Glacier Group", Tintin "AliBig Ring Line Group", S "Ali UniversityCircle Star Group", Stanley "AliSouth Line Zhuanshan Group", Irene "AliSouth LineDrone Group", Luo shiyong "AliGreat Northern LineSelf-driving group". The departure time of each group is also different, some of them depart on the 21st/22nd, some depart on the 24th/25th, and some depart after the 26th. .

The amazing thing is that although the starting time of each group is different, the itinerary is also different (the first half of the branch line: some go to Mount Everest, some go to Yadong, and some go to Geelong). Due to various reasons, in the place of Saga, there are actually 5 groups of people who met here. On that day, because my group arrived late, I missed meeting them. I regret this! !

The Star Glacier group departed on A/21 (3 cars were dispatched at the same time, due to some team members’ high-resistance and different routes, a 2.5-day “meeting” was held in Saga.);

The Tintin ring line group departing on B/22 (she was ruthlessly abandoned in Saga by the driver because she called the team members on the way and held a small meeting with "targeted" drivers!);

C／There is also the Stanley South Line Turning Mountain Group (the group with the most hardships. Originally, 2 cars were dispatched at the same time. On the day of departure on the 24th, some team members had acute pulmonary edema and temporarily retreated a car; when they arrived in Saga, some team members continued to have a fever , and needed to stay in the hospital on the spot, but had no choice but to withdraw from the itinerary; and later, he left his ID card and border defense card in Saga, but had no choice but to turn back halfway.) Later, when their group returned to Shigatse, the car was detained by the police. . OMG, what kind of shit luck did your group have? ? ?

D/S Circle Line Starry Sky Group (the star hotel booked by the driver, the standard room of 600 oceans, there is no hot water. It is miserable all the way!);

Speaking of which, our Zhuanshan group on the Great Northern Line seems to have become the luckiest group in Saga except for almost sleeping on the streets!

ps: To sum up, judging from the situations encountered by each group, whether a trip is pleasant or not depends on not only reliable teammates, but also reliable drivers.

D6- Walking into Ali (9.26/ Saga-Taqin/ 580km/ altitude about: 4700M)

Ngari, located in the northern part of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the core area of ​​the Qiangtang no-man's land, is Tibet in Tibet, the roof of the roof of the world, and it is known as the "third pole of the earth". The cruel plateau environment here discourages many people. Here is also the ancestor of thousands of mountains and the source of hundreds of rivers, giving birth to the oldest Zhang Zhung civilization in Tibet, and it is a distant country closest to heaven.

On a sunny morning, we drove away from Saga and continued westward. Today, we will officially enter the Ngari area, and the solemn sacred mountains and holy lakes will be unveiled one by one. At this time, the friends who are traveling together seem to be looking forward to it~  

Today, we continue to drive along National Highway 219. The whole journey is almost at an altitude of 4500-5200M. On the way, we have to cross the Assault La Pass at an altitude of 4900M and the Mayumula Pass at an altitude of 5200M. The scenery along the way is beautiful and the sun is shining. In the afternoon, we officially entered the Ngari area with an average altitude of 4500+, and arrived at Gongzhucuo in the evening. This is the first time we got stuck in a car~ (Well, my boyfriend is very good, I won’t have dinner tonight, we will eat dumplings~)

From Lhasa to Ali, first 318, then 219, which lasted three days. At this moment, the holy mountain is getting closer and closer to us, and we focus all our attention on Gang Rinpoche outside the window. It is a pity that the sacred mountain in the distance is shrouded in thick clouds and mist, and the real face cannot be seen. In that life, I traveled around mountains and rivers and pagodas, just to meet you on the way... However, my heart of anticipation, the heart of wanting to see but not seeing, will still be a little bit lost after all~ 

Near 9:00 p.m., all the members of the Zhuanshan team on the Ali Great Northern Line finally arrived at the center of the world—Kang Rinpoche. Tonight stay in Taqin Town at the foot of Mount Kinabalu. (The conditions here are limited,The accommodation environment is poor, even the best Himalayan Hotel does not necessarily have hot water~)

ps: Due to time reasons, the site of the holy lake on this day was adjusted to after turning around the mountain.

D7- Pilgrimage to the Holy Mountain (9.27/ the first day around the mountain/ 22km/elevation about: 5100M)

1) Gang Rinpoche - the first day of turning around the mountain (Taqin-22km-Zhire Temple, 400 meters above sea level)

【Kang Rinpoche】——Kang Rinpoche Peak has a special mountain body, shaped like a pyramid. It is the place where the gods live and is recognized as a sacred mountain in the world. At the same time, it is recognized as the center of the world by Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism, Yongzhong Bon religion, and ancient Jainism. Although the altitude is not outstanding, it is the holy mountain among the holy mountains and the holy place among the holy places. Every year, a large number of pilgrims from India, Nepal, Bhutan and other countries come to the holy mountain for pilgrimage.

In Tibet, the greatest wish of a Buddhist believer in his life is to go on a pilgrimage to Kailash. They believe that if you turn around Gang Rinpoche once, you can wash away the sins of your life; if you turn ten times, you can avoid the suffering of hell in 500 cycles; if you turn a hundred times, you can ascend to heaven and become a Buddha. Therefore, Gang Rinpoche's pilgrimage to the mountain is my obsession in this trip to Tibet.

- On September 27, 2019, at around 8:20 in the morning, I hiked into the mountain clockwise from Taqin~ 

-9:30 turnAfter crossing the first small pass, I met a pilgrim with a long head~ 

 -10:20 Arrive at Jingfan Square~ 

-11:00 Passing by the supply point of Qugu Temple~

-12:50 Take a break on the road, the status of the partners is still OK~

-13:40 Arrived at the second supply point and solved today's lunch~

-14:50 Arrive at the foot of Shenshan Mountain, Brother Feng warmly changed Sunny's magic scarf into a hat~

-15:40 In front of the Zhiresi pass, there was a sudden hailstorm~

-16:10 Arrive at the camping point of Zhire Temple and check into a luxury hotel at an altitude of 5110 M.

——Ali's suffering is that the counties or towns where he lives often have restrictions on water and electricity, and he can't wash his hands. That's a common thing. In some remote villages and towns, there are many people without water and electricity. Now the Zhire Temple in 5100 has actually built a modern hotel, the accommodation conditions have been greatly improved, and the power supply will be supplied until 10 o'clock at night. Although there are no conditions for washing, compared with the past, Zhire Temple has no water, no electricity, and poor accommodation conditions. Staying here tonight can be regarded as a luxurious 5-star hotel.

 -19:40 Friends waited for 1 and a half hours for the holy mountain, and finally revealed its true face! (At this time, under the mountain, there is an inexplicable tranquility and peace~)

- 20:30 eat expired instant noodles

 -23:10 Going out in the snow to solve the three emergencies Sour ~)

D8- Pilgrimage to the Holy Mountain (9.28/the second day after turning around the mountain/34km/altitude 4700)

2) Kailash——The second day of turning around the mountain (Zhire Temple-34km-Taqin, the average altitude is 5000+, and it takes 13h)

-7:10 Depart from Zhire Temple at 5100 in the dark~ 

-8:20 All the way up a gentle slope, the sunrise is still not seen after 8 o'clock~

-10:00 Arrive at the sky burial platform supply point and take a short rest.

-11:00 Continue climbing, after the celestial burial platform, I met a large number of Tibetans turning mountains~

——There are also two German girls who follow all the way, Brother Feng still doesn’t forget to “flirt”~

——On the way over the Zhuomala pass, I met the most enthusiastic believers who reversed the Bon religion. Tashi Dele! ! !

-11:30 Arrive at the 5600+ Zhuomala Pass and meet the most devout pilgrims. This is an admirable force~

——Tibetans resting at Yakou, two couples brought their brothers and brothers, and a family of four came to make a pilgrimage around the mountain. Because the child is still young, the speed is not as fast as ordinary Tibetans. Therefore, during the time of crossing the pass, we often meet each other~

-12:00 After crossing the pass, the partners were affirmed by Brother Feng~

——Passing by Tuojicuo, also known as Mercy Lake.

——After crossing the pass, there will be a few kilometers of steep slopes, even if you use both hands and feet, there will be frequent dangers~ 

——The wayward little partner, on the glacier, sprinkled a wild ~

-12:40 It is snowing heavily, go ahead in the snow~

-13:20 Arrive at the Shajichado camp at the foot of Zhuomala Mountain for a short rest and supplies~

. . . . . .

——Starting from the campsite of Xiajichaduo (also called Fudongdiding), it is a gentle downhill road, which is relatively easy to walk, but shortly after the departure, there was another hailstorm, which lasted for more than half an hour.

——Continuing to march in the weather with alternating rain and hail, almost no photos were taken in the second half~

——In the last 5km, I walked to the end almost with the support of will and belief, and returned to Taqin's residence at 20:10 that night. Before entering the city, we saw Namunani Peak in the sunset in the distance. It’s just that at that time, I was so tired that I didn’t even feel like pulling out my phone to take pictures~

Gang Rinpoche has always been a very sacred place in my heart. For the starry sky, for admiration, and for what I think in my heart, I follow it all the way. This time, with a heart of awe, we performed a soul baptism in a holy atmosphere in this holy place in the hearts of all pilgrims, and felt the power of faith. Two days of walking around the mountain, with an average altitude of about 5000, and a total of 21 hours of walking, finally successfully fulfilled my wish. Tashi Dele! ! !

ps: Back to Taqin at night, called the two big drivers who were waiting for our triumphant return, and had a simple celebration dinner!

D9- Breaking into the soil forest (9.29/ Taqin - Zanda/ 330km/ altitude: 3700M)

The plateau hiking in the first two days was indeed a very hard work. But after a night of rest, we seemed to be revived again. After breakfast, before going to Zanda, we had to take a detour to the holy lake 30 kilometers southeast of Gang Rinpoche - Manasarovar.

[Manasarovar Manasarovar] - Between the two peaks of Gang Rinpoche and Namunani Peak, there is a world-famous holy lake, Manasarovar Manasarovar. It is a holy lake recognized by many religions in the world and is known as the "King of Holy Lakes". But in the hearts of many tourists in Tibet, its reputation is not as good as that of Namtso and Yamdrok.

For those who come to Tibet with yearning for natural scenery, they may be disappointed at first glance. Just like us today, maybe the weather was not good, maybe we didn’t find the best viewing point, but we only took a group photo and got in the car to leave~

The weather in Tibet has four seasons in one day, and the weather is different for ten miles. It really changes rapidly. Laangcuo, which is separated by a road from the holy freshwater lake, is known as the "ghost lake", but it has amazing beauty. The Namunani Peak in the distance is looming, we stand by the lake, our eyes are clear, the sky is blue, the clouds are white, the water is clear, the wind is cool, everything is simple and ordinary~

After returning from Ghost Lake, we passed by the viewing platform of Manasarovar, and happened to meet a group of patriots from western Sichuan. The red five-star national flag in our hands is a gift from them. Since this Ali trip coincided with the 70th anniversary of the motherland, we also recorded a blessing to the motherland. But I recorded it several times back and forth, but the finished product is as follows. Since then, we have been deeply skeptical about Master Xu's photography skills~

——Standing on the edge of the holy lake, with blue sky and white clouds and colorful prayer flags, there is always a sense of sacredness and purity~

Saying goodbye to the sacred mountain and the holy lake, we continue to walk west along the Xinzang line 219, leave the 219 national highway at the intersection of Suoduo village, and drive 70 to 80 kilometers southwest, and then we enter the area of ​​Zanda soil forest landform, nearly At 8 o'clock in the evening, arrive at the earth forest viewing platform.

[Zanda Soil Forest] —— Soil forest is a special landform formed by the impact of orogeny in ancient times, and the strata deposited at the bottom of the lake have been cut by flowing water for a long time, and gradually weathered and eroded. It is a famous natural landscape in Ngari area.

——Looking down from the viewing platform, the vast vicissitudes of the earth forest in front of you are amazing. Only when you are on the scene can you feel the majesty and magnificence of the earth forest.

——With the backdrop of the sunset and the blue sky and white clouds, I feel that this piece of Gobi is not desolate, colorful and gorgeous, just like the palette of the earth is full of magic.

Our car drove slowly in the depths of the soil forest, as if entering the museum of nature, experiencing the supernatural powers of nature.

——Visiting the kingdom (9.30/ missed the most beautiful sunrise of the dynasty~)

[Guge Dynasty] - The establishment of the Guge Dynasty probably began in the 9th century, after the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty that unified the Tibetan Plateau, and ended in the 17th century, with 16 hereditary kings successively. It is a local regime established by the descendants of the Tubo royal family in the Ali region in the west of Tubo, and its ruling scope covered the entire territory of Ali at its peak. It is not only the continuation of the Tubo lineage, but also enables Buddhism to regain its foothold after the disintegration of Tubo, and thus gradually reach its full glory. Therefore, the Guge Dynasty is of great significance in the history of Tibet.

 There were over 100,000 people here, but three hundred years ago, they disappeared in history overnight. The most mysterious thing is that after the disappearance of a kingdom with such a splendid culture, human beings seem to have forgotten its existence at the same time. There is no human activity to destroy its buildings, and its murals and artistic styles are preserved, and even destroyed. The scene of the destruction has also been preserved. And how did all this happen? It is still an eternal mystery full of temptation.

——An ancient plateau city that has been sleeping for thousands of years.

Its antiquity, mystery and majesty have attracted us to travel thousands of miles away. Climbing up the steps along the hillside, you can feel its majesty and precipitousness more and more. From its heyday to its sudden demise, the fall of civilization is still an unsolved mystery.

This grand plateau ancient city has become a landmark of Ngari, Tibet. If you don’t come to the mysterious Guge in Ngari, it means you haven’t been to the core area of ​​Ngari, you haven’t touched the most mysterious history of Tibet, and you haven’t felt the most magical and magnificent place in Tibet. scenery. If you have seen the whole world, don't forget there is "Ali".

D10- Arrive at the capital (9.30/Zanda—Shiquan River/210km/elevation: 4200M)  

After climbing the Guge ruins in the morning, leave Zanda County at noon and continue west along the Xinzang line. The road is also flat and smooth. There are almost no cars along the way, only the picturesque scenery on both sides of the road. There are hundreds of kilometers along the way, and there are no stops for food and supplies along the way. Before we set off, there was not much dry food left in Lhasa, so we had to continue our journey hungry.

Ali's long road, there is the straightness leading to the sky under Shishapangma Peak, the chicness of off-road vehicles rolling up the yellow sand in the sky, and the carelessness of being in the open world.

There is a sandy place on a viewing platform dozens of kilometers away from the city. Our driver Xiao Xu got a little wayward and got stuck in the car again. The partners pushed and pulled, pulled and pushed, and finally put the car of our friendly army Da Xu into it, which is really dumbfounding~

In the end, thanks to the police uncle who was passing by, he helped out, and he was able to get out of trouble!

We hurried on and continued on our way, and arrived at Shiquanhe, the capital of Ngari region, at 6:00 in the evening. Although it is only a town, it is definitely a bustling metropolis on the relatively desolate Xinjiang-Tibet Line. Whether you are on the Xinjiang-Tibet Line or the Ngari North-South Ring Road, Shiquanhe, an important town, is definitely a good time to "tonic".

The itinerary is already halfway through, and we have already adapted to the discomfort caused by the high altitude. Today is the earliest day of our itinerary. There is nothing to eat on the way at noon. In the evening, we have two meals in one. It’s okay to be a little corrupt~

——Well, Shiquanhe’s Sour Uncle Laotan Sauerkraut Chicken with Bamboo Shoots is here~

——Eating and drinking enough, the sun has not set yet, guess what we are all doing? truth or Dare? Embarrassing revelations?

——Everything you want to know is in there~

Looking back now, the entire trip of Ali, the time of the tea party after the meal, was undoubtedly the happiest and warmest scene of our trip. Here, west of Tibet, no more obsession~

D11- Going to the wasteland (10.1 / Shiquan River - Gaize / 480km / Altitude: 4500M)

Shiquanhe, the capital of Ali, is not only the end point of the Ali South Line, but also the starting point of the Ali Great North Line. From today onwards, we will officially turn from south to north, and the itinerary will pass through a desolate, mysterious and lonely no-man's land; and the amazing "wrong again and again" behind the Great Northern Line will unfold to us one by one.

In the early morning of October 1st, it was the moment of national celebration. We set off from Shiquan River in the morning sun and walked along the edge of Qiangtang no-man's land to Geji. We passed a wetland with rich water and grass. This is definitely a wasteland A magnificent scene in ~

【Geji County】—Basically a pure animal husbandry county, located in the west of Tibet, at the source of the Shiquan River. The county is located in the Great Lakes Basin of the Qiangtang Plateau, with an average altitude of over 4,800 meters, known as the "roof of the world".

After leaving Geji County in the afternoon, we traveled through the most desolate, mysterious and lonely no-man's land in Ali, and staged a "speed and passion" with Tibetan antelopes and Tibetan donkeys~

When passing through Xiongba Township at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, I happened to meet local villagers again, presenting a gift for the 70th anniversary of the motherland. Come early, it's better to come by coincidence, let's go, let's join in the fun~

Today's itinerary, although there are no "well-known attractions", but on a semi-dried salt lake, we have a different excitement. ——Plateau tug-of-war, celebrating the 70th anniversary of the motherland~

The dreamy clouds over the highway are like countless cute cotton candy, floating under the blue sky, as if standing on tiptoe, you can touch it~

Due to the high-altitude cold climate, there are many snow-capped mountains along the way, walking through the desert with mottled light and shadows, feeling the beauty of the wilderness all the way, with only piety and awe in my heart! In the evening, I passed Daraocuo and arrived at Gaize County at about 8:00 p.m.~

Entering the Ngari area, the most beautiful scenery can only be recorded with the eyes. Along the way, I feel the power of nature and my own insignificance. In Ali, everything you encounter is a surprise~

ps: 4700 tears were shed this night. The journey is not easy, thank you Feng for your understanding, trust and support~

D12- Measure again and again (10.2/ Gaize-Nyima-Wenbu South Village /460km / Altitude: 4600M)

Today officially started the mode of taking measures again and again. In the morning, facing the bright sunshine and gorgeous clouds, we rushed to the center of the ancient kingdom of Zhongshan Shung, one of the oldest civilizations.

【Dong Cuo】——Today's first "mistake", our sunny baby, in order to shoot a blockbuster, accidentally tripped in the swamp and "lost" himself. In the end, "Dabai" was also given away directly~

Ngari is not only the area with the most dense lakes in China, but also a paradise for wild animals, and some species are often seen along the way. In this beautiful northern Tibet, there are no crowds, no hustle and bustle, only nature and purity, only gods, Buddhas and spirits. This is a vast and spiritual holy land~

Along the way, the wilderness is empty, the snow-capped mountains are continuous, and there are few people inhabited. The blue sky covers the earth, and there is an endless distance between the sky and the earth. I want to stop, step into the depths of the wilderness, step on the soil, and enjoy the loneliness and emptiness~

【Dangqiongcuo】—the second "mistake" today. It is said that the lake water in Dangqiongcuo is so strange that it changes three colors in one day, and whoever can see the three colors of the lake water in one day will be the luckiest.

Under the makeup of the sun and clouds, Dang Qiongcuo is so pure that you feel sorry for it, and the clouds rising in the distance are like a dragon hovering into the sky, leaving a bit of mystery~

It feels so good to stand here with a ray of morning breeze and a ray of sunshine! Although far away from my hometown, my heart has returned to the snowy paradise~

When we were about to turn around and leave, we unexpectedly ran into the caravan group that stopped here tonight~

Moving on, in the evening, we came to the third "wrong" of today - Dangre Yumcuo. On the Great Northern Line, it is a holy lake that I am most looking forward to~

[Dangreyongcuo]——Dangreyongcuo is the fourth largest lake in Tibet and also the sacred lake of Bon religion. It is located at the foot of Daguo Snow Mountain. There is a gap to the east of Daguo Snow Mountain on the south bank. Darguo Mountain is a series of seven peaks, the mountain is dark and covered with snow, its shape resembles seven neatly arranged pyramids. Yuben Temple by the lake is a temple built in a cliff cave, and it is said to be one of the oldest temples of Xiangxiong Yongzhongben religion.

Anyone who has been to Tibet knows that there are three major yongcuos in Tibet: Yamdrok yongcuo, Mapang yongcuo and Tangre yongcuo. "Yongcuo" means "jasper-like lake" in Tibetan. In Tibet, not all lakes can be called "Yongcuo". Even Namtso, which is known as one of the "Three Sacred Lakes", has not been awarded the title of "Yongcuo". "Yongcuo" has such a high standard.

Dangreyongcuo Lake is vast and presents a suffocating sapphire blue color. The Dargo Mountain in the distance, against the background of colorful clouds at sunset and dusk, is even more breathtaking, showing its unparalleled beauty.

In the evening, stop at Wenbu South Village on the edge of Tangreyongcuo, and stay at the BMW Hotel at the entrance of the village. The location near the lake is excellent, living in a six-person room on the second floor, the viewing angle is super invincible. What is even more surprising is that there are actually 6 large beds of 1.35 meters in the room, and the bedding is also warm enough. Anyway, so far in the itinerary, relatively speaking, this is the most satisfying night, and it is also the only night of "group sex"!

Standing on a high place overlooking Ali's land, mountains, rivers and rural rivers, the soul trekking in the wilderness is comforted, and the wind in the ear is also gently singing poetry.

The BMW Hotel is run by Dorje, a Tibetan guy in his twenties, and his family. The business period is from May to October every year. There are not many beds, and the peak season is basically full of guests. Due to the limited geographical environment, the power supply is until 10:00 pm every day, and only limited washing water is provided. There are no other restaurants in the village, and most of the guests are staying at the B&Bs or Tibetan homes where they settle their dinners based on the seasonal vegetables available in the kitchen. .

[Wenbu South Village]——It is the center of the ancient state of Zhang Zhung, one of the oldest civilizations in Tibet. At an altitude of 4,600 meters, this small mountain village on the shore of the holy lake, which was originally isolated from the world, is the birthplace of the mysterious ancient religion on the Tibetan plateau, the Bon religion, and an original ecological village in northern Tibet.

D13-Cuoshangjiacuo (10.3/Wenbu South Village-Nyima-Bango County/450km/ 4700M)

When the first ray of sunshine climbed up the mountain, I took another look at Wenbunan Village and Dangreyongcuo in the morning. The lake and the village were so peaceful and serene. If it is not for the schedule constraints, I really want to stay here for a few days~

Reluctantly bid farewell to Shenhu, we returned to Nima to repair the car and change the tire along the way we came. By the way, lunch is also settled in the county~

Depart from Nima County in the afternoon and come to the first "wrong" of the day - [Dazecuo]. Let's stay for a short time and skip it in a hurry~

Half an hour later, we came to Tibet's largest devil lake - [Selincuo],

Selincuo means "Devil Lake" in Tibetan. This name is related to its origin. In the past, there were nine small lakes where Selincuo was located. For some reason, the lake water gradually grew and merged, becoming a lake. It is now the largest lake in Tibet.

We did not choose a photo spot on the roadside hillside, but drove the car to a lake and played "float"~

There are several large and small plateau lakes in Tibet, which are called holy lakes because of their beauty or legend, but only two lakes, Laangcuo and Selincuo, are disgustingly called ghost lakes.

Road, you can drive to the holy lake, to the snow-capped mountains, to the horizon,

You will find that the original scenery is not only in the scenic spots, but also on the road~

 Turning a corner and stomping our feet, we came to the third "mistake" of today - [Cuo Jing]. From the map of the mobile phone, there is a lake that is very close to Selincuo - Cuo Jing. The distance between these two lakes is less than 1 kilometer. It is said that the original Cuotian almost became Selincuo's pocket.

Perhaps, everyone who has been to Tibet has his own favorite standard for the lake. And I, facing the embarrassment at this moment, have a feeling that I can't stop it, it doesn't matter how big or small~

Due to the 70th anniversary of the National Day, some sections of the road into the city were temporarily restricted (the original 70-yard section was reduced to 30 yards), and there were mobile speed-testing cars passing by from time to time on the road, so we had to stop and take a stroll. At this time of the meeting, Master Xiao Xu showed us his 18 kinds of martial arts, and this is the only one~

Since yesterday, I no longer need to take care of the food and drink on the road. This meal tonight, I feel particularly relaxed and satisfied, and even have an inexplicable sense of happiness~

The place where we stay at night is also worth mentioning. In order to find a place where we can take a bath, we actually checked into a bathing center. This kind of travel experience is also unique and has a different flavor~

D14- One measure to the end (10.4/ Bangor-Sacred Elephant Tianmen-Dangxiong /280km/ Altitude: 4200M)

Departing from Bangor at 10:00 in the morning, although it was only over 100 kilometers to the Tianmen Gate of the Holy Elephant, it turned from the asphalt road back to the rural dirt road shortly after leaving the city. Due to the development of the scenic spot, roads are being built everywhere. There are intermittent partial asphalt roads in the first half of Qinglong Township, and then there are all dirt roads and washboard roads. The road conditions are relatively bad and it is very difficult to walk!

All kinds of "mistakes" in the past few days really made people dazzled and dizzy. Today's partners have entered the period of visual fatigue, coupled with the bumpy road, passing by today's first "mistake" - [Bamucuo], everyone is no longer willing to get out of the car, just sitting in the car for a long time. After watching it, I sent it away~

Passing by an unknown "Haizi", we got out of the car to let the wind go, and waited for the friendly troops left behind by us,

Moving on, the snow-capped mountains and holy lakes in the distance are approaching us step by step.

It was close to four o'clock in the afternoon, and we finally came to a lake on the north shore of Namtso~

At this moment, seeing Namtso again is so amazing! The sapphire in front of me is the kind of soul-stirring blue, blue enough to penetrate into the bone marrow, blue enough to melt everything, blue enough to make people hallucinate~

In this fairyland-like place on earth, the partners can no longer help themselves, and must take a long-lost group photo~

[Sacred Elephant Tianmen]——a naturally formed huge stone elephant stands on the vast bank of Namtso, its trunk goes deep into the lake, as if it is absorbing the sacred water from the snowy area. When you are in it, you will find that there is a giant gate between the body and trunk of the stone elephant. This giant gate is often called the holy gate of heaven. It is said that this is a holy gate leading to heaven.

For the Namtso that many people are familiar with, the focus is on the Tashi Peninsula, but few people know about the sacred elephant Tianmen on the north bank. After we bought the tickets, we drove to a pass stop. We needed to climb up a hillside to reach the best viewing point of the Holy Elephant Tianmen. The altitude of Namtso Lake is already 4700, and if you climb to the top of the cliff, the altitude will already exceed 5000+.

Oh my god, the feeling of crossing the Zhuomala pass is back again, one step and three breaths, we finally come up~

When you stand on the high cliff, the stunning view in front of you is breathtaking. There has never been such a shocking scene, where nature and humanity are matched in a magnificent world. The blue holy lake, like the sea, comes straight into my mind. A natural inlet appears in front of you, connecting with the blue lake water, forming the most beautiful painting between heaven and earth.

The Holy Elephant Tianmen is a holy place hidden in legends. At least three years ago, very few people could get here, and even many locals had never heard of it. Due to the long distance and the desolation of the no-man's land in northern Tibet, only truly devout people can come here to worship the rare beauty in this world.

In 2015, the year of the sheep in the Tibetan calendar, according to the Tibetan tradition of "turning to the mountains in the year of the horse and turning to the lake in the year of the sheep", Namtso has become a destination for believers to worship. For the convenience of believers, the government built a road around the lake to make it easier to worship the holy lake. And this also made the "Holy Elephant Tianmen" hidden on the north bank of the holy lake rise and sink. After standing quietly for thousands of years, it finally came to the secular world.

There is a ruined temple in the Tianmen Fjord of the Holy Elephant, overgrown with weeds and ruined walls, which have been destroyed for decades during the struggle years. How unimportant it used to be, it has been forgotten for decades in such a decadent manner, only the sun, moon and stars and the blue and vast Namtso are silently guarding each other.

If you don’t come to Tibet, how can you appreciate the beauty of the world? When I got here, I returned the distance to the ultimate place of Tibet's beauty - the Holy Elephant Tianmen!

…………

However, some good things are always accompanied by some regrets. The original itinerary plan was to stay here tonight, and I planned to see the vast cosmic sky again as the finale of this itinerary! As everyone knows, the campsite was full of tourists and the tourist flow in the scenic spot was limited, so we had to withdraw overnight.

The next 5 hours can be called the most difficult moment of this trip to Tibet. At 7 o'clock in the evening, we started to withdraw from the Holy Elephant Tianmen, and when we drove to Gangxiong Village, the sky was completely dark. In the area from Gangxiong Village to Dongga Village, construction is happening everywhere. There are no street lights, road signs, or signals. It is like driving on a large construction site, and the navigation does not work. It is very easy to walk on the side road. In this way, we walked hard in the dark, and we walked for more than 2 hours on this road of dozens of kilometers. Reluctantly, we climbed over the Nagenla Mountain at an altitude of 5190 meters overnight, and we didn't arrive at the residence of Dangxiong until after 12 o'clock in the evening.

ps: The Holy Elephant Tianmen, although it is a new attraction that only opened this year, it has become a check-in point for Internet celebrities during the National Day period, coupled with the vigorous promotion of travel agencies. A large number of tourists coming from Lhasa, crowded the "reception center". When we arrived at the campsite at 5:00 p.m., we could not book room and board. Beforehand, because the accommodation in the scenic spot is restricted by the package policy, we cannot book room and board in advance. In desperation, we had no choice but to evacuate from the north bank overnight and rush to Dangxiong to find a place to live. .

D15- On the way home (10.5/ Damxung-Lhasa/ 220km/ altitude 3650M)

Unknowingly, our itinerary has come to the last day. After more than ten days, some partners have long been looking forward to returning home, but I have a little bit of reluctance~

On the way back today, I will pass by a particularly interesting place—Xingzhe【Black Tent】. Located in Dangxiongyang Bajing Town, with an altitude of 4300M, it is the best place to watch the main peak of Nyainqentanglha Mountain which is 7100M high on the way. A viewing platform that was only opened in October 2018.

"From the moment I stepped into the black tent, it was a pilgrimage~" I was deeply attracted by its design concept at the beginning. So this year's Tibet station, when I was planning the itinerary, I discussed with the driver Xiao Xu repeatedly and insisted on a place to come.

——The entrance of the sunken square hopes that people can maintain a humble posture before entering the viewing platform, go down, retract inward, and return to calm. With every step you take, the eye-level landscape is reduced by one point, and finally only the blue sky above your head remains.

——After the silence, when you walk to the end, you find yourself floating on the grassland, and your vision suddenly becomes clear, and the main peak of Nyainqentanglha Mountain is right in front of you. Looking at the sacred mountain from a distance and watching the grassland up close, the clouds are in the heart, and the heart is in the clouds.

——Going down the steps of the viewing platform, it is a ring-shaped "end of life" project made of stones. Standing in the center, you can experience Tibetans' humility towards nature and respect for life, and at the same time pray for yourself, your family, and your friends .

——Step into the No. 1 courtyard along the stone path, turn your head and face the Nyainqentanglha Mountain, feel the tranquility and vastness, take a deep breath, and savor this journey. Sit down, take a sip of buttered tea, chat with your companions, feel each other's journey, very relaxed and comfortable!

——Before leaving, come to Muxin Post Office, pick a postcard handmade by Tibetans, and send a sincere blessing from the plateau to your lover and friends!

From the sunken square at the entrance to the final spiritual post office, our inner state has gone through seven processes: humility, silence, pilgrimage, blessing, enlightenment, ease, and transmission. Therefore, this is not only a pilgrimage to Nyainqentanglha Mountain , It is also a baptism of body and mind.

——Before entering the city, check out the pile of dragons——[Zhang Zhung Castle]

ps: Before I entered the black tent, suddenly there was a song "Farewell to My Friends" from "Zougui" at the door, which made my memory fresh! From that moment on, the melancholy of parting came to my mind~

——Successfully concluded (10.5/ end of the itinerary, the celebration banquet starts~)

"Ali Great Northern Line Zhuanshan Group", two vehicles including the driver, a total of 8 people, returned safely to the holy city - Lhasa at 3:00 pm on October 5th, ending the hard and unforgettable journey of the Ali Great Northern Line.

——Come, come, let’s go to the celebration banquet~

——The first cup, congratulations~

——The second cup, I wish you peace~

——The third cup, respect fate~

——Last cup, toast every day after~

So far, the chartered car trip of Ali Great North Line has come to a successful conclusion! Thanks to the driver, the teammates, and everyone who contributed to the itinerary. Tashi Dele!

10.6 / Farewell to teammates, farewell to old friends~

Farewell to teammate Sunny in the morning; bid farewell to the old friend at Canggu Temple in the afternoon - the great god Duge!

10.7 / Respective return~

The 2019 Ali's asceticism has come to a successful conclusion, and today they are returning~

This trip to Tibet station, from event recruitment, to route planning, to travel all the way. We have experienced no water, no electricity, no signal, turning mountains and encountering wind and snow, getting stuck in the sand, getting lost in no man's land, driving on the washboard road at night... along the way, there are everything we imagined, and there are also things beyond our imagination , we feel with our hearts and overcome them one by one! @阿里大北线转山团’s friends, thank you for your trust and support along the way. This is not just a trip, but an adventure. Thanks for meeting! Thanks to my colleagues!

About Tibet

Tibet, a place closest to heaven. For many people, there is always an indescribable magic. For me, it is full of mystery, holiness and power.

about faith

Here, you will see many pilgrims who kowtow their heads all the way to Lhasa from their distant hometowns. They used their bodies to measure all the way from the gate of their house to Lhasa. They would bring their life savings, exchange them for gold nuggets, and grind them into gold powder. Then, paint on the body and face of the 12-year-old Sakyamuni statue in the Jokhang Temple, which is the most important thing in their life.

About high anti

High rebellion is an eternal topic among all people who have entered Tibet. Whether you enter Tibet by train or plane, each has its own advantages and disadvantages. People generally have symptoms of altitude sickness when they reach an altitude of more than 3000 meters, which may be severe or mild. After all, Gaofan is also an experience of traveling to Tibet, isn’t it?

Remember, do not bring a disease into Tibet, the cold is the biggest cause of high reaction. Take David from our group this time as an example. He had a slight cold before entering Tibet. Although he had arrived in Lhasa ahead of schedule, he had to go to the hospital twice. Things terrified us. Fortunately, after continuous rest, it did not affect our chartered car itinerary.

Special Note

1. Some photos are shared by teammates. Because they are taken with different mobile phones or cameras, there will be differences in imaging or color.

2. Special thanks to teammate David, who contributed many wonderful blockbusters to our group!