The book continues the previous article and continues the Qinhuangdao chapter

There are four railway stations in Qinhuangdao, Changli, Beidaihe, Qinhuangdao, and Shanhaiguan, so friends still have to choose the stations according to their own planned routes. Generally, high-speed trains go to Beidaihe, Qinhuangdao, and Shanhaiguan stations, and Changli station is relatively rare. Qinhuangdao is long and narrow, and Beidaihe scenic spots are mainly suitable for recuperation. Scenic spots include: Pigeon Nest Park, Laohushi Park, Lianfeng Mountain, and Strange House; scenic spots in Qinhuangdao: the place where Qinhuang begged for immortals to enter the sea, and the plank road for immortals; Shanhaiguan scenic spots: the first pass in the world , Shanhaiguan City, Great Wall Museum, Wang Family Courtyard, Meng Jiangnv Temple, Jiaoshan, Yansai Lake, there may be others I haven’t mentioned, after all, I’m not a local, so it’s impossible to know everything about them! Qinhuangdao has a very clear distinction between off-season and peak season. During the peak season, people are everywhere. The off-season is beyond my expectation, and a bird has faded out. I just thought that there would be fewer people in the off-season, so I like to travel in the off-season, and it turned out. . . . The eyes are full of roads, and there is no human hair. Walk around the seaside casually, the whole sea is your feeling, very cool. But the bad thing is that hotels and restaurants are all closed, and eating is a problem. . . Therefore, if you go to Qinhuangdao in the off-season, you must bring dry food.

D4: Around 10:50, we arrived at Beidaihe Station. There were so few people.

Beidaihe is a sanatorium base. Almost all major companies and state-owned enterprises in various parts of the country have sanatoriums in Beidaihe, and it is the back garden of Beijing.

Take the bus to Lianfeng Mountain, there is a direct bus. When I was approaching Lianfeng Mountain, there was a section of road on Xihaitan Road, which was along the seashore. I was surprised, amazed, and rare! But the locals in the car didn't even raise their eyelids, they were used to it. This reminds me of the definition of travel. Traveling is when one person takes pictures in a place where he is used to and is tired of looking at, and goes to a place where another person lives and is tired of looking at, hahaha, very incisive. When approaching Lianfeng Mountain, there is a beach bathing place. In the off-season, there is no one, so you can go in casually, and it is very comfortable to bask in the sun.

The beach in the off-season makes you feel that the whole beach is yours. This is a different experience. Standing on the beach, I didn't want to leave. Although it was winter, I didn't feel cold at all when I was basking in the sun. On the quiet beach, there are no crowds like dumplings, and the mood is instantly open.

There was a shell seller who followed us and asked us to buy them. In the end, my mother bought a few shells for 40 yuan. . . . . . .

It was past twelve o'clock at this time, and I wanted to find something to eat. I walked up the mountain and there was a small town. As a result, all the restaurants on the street were closed. There was only one noodle shop selling noodles. I ate two meals for 20 yuan bowl of noodles. Fortunately, there was a bakery still open, and I bought cakes and pastries for ten yuan, which was the next day's breakfast. Later, I chatted with the locals. From May every year, the Beidaihe restaurant and hotel opened, until November, and then closed again, and I worked for half a year a year.

There are fewer people on the road than the number of fingers.

After dinner, walk to Lianfeng Mountain. Many scenic spots in Beidaihe in the off-season this year are free of charge, such as Lianfeng Mountain and Pigeon Nest Park. Lianfeng Mountain is not very high, the highest is only more than 100 meters, and there is also the place where Mao Zedong watched the sunrise. Lianfeng Mountain has a high rate of tree coverage and is a natural oxygen bar. There are many villas in history. It is said that after the Lin Biao incident was revealed, Lin Biao fled in Lianfeng Mountain.

Behind is the sea, a little hazy, not clear

You can see the sea from this place

It is said that the sound of the waves can be heard here. Maybe I am old and my ears are hard of hearing. Anyway, I didn’t hear it. Did you hear it?

Standing here, the great man watched the sunrise here, and I watched the sunset here, haha ​​(this is the first time Mao Zedong watched the sunrise in Beidaihe, not here to write about the heavy rain falling on the swallows)

There is an ancient temple on Lianfeng Mountain

The sunset in Beidaihe began after three o'clock, and it was very dark at half past four. When the sun went down, the temperature dropped rapidly, so I hurried out and didn't dare to go around.

I walked back to the beach at noon, but there was still no one there.

quiet beach at night

Of course, there are people on duty, so they have to be on guard in case something goes wrong? As long as you don't jump into the sea, people don't care about you.

Qinhuangdao in the off-season really faded away, no one was seen, and eating was a problem again. I wanted to walk to Laohushi Park, which is not far away, but at six o’clock, there was no one on the road for half a day, and all restaurants were closed. We have arrived at Laohushi, and we won’t go in anymore. The temperature has dropped and it’s cold. Let’s go to the hotel quickly. Dinner is always a problem, so there’s nothing left!

Take the bus from Laohushi Park to Pigeon Nest Park, and book a hotel near the Pigeon Nest. It was so cold that I finally got on the bus, and there were not many people on the way. There were a few locals in the car. When they saw that we were carrying bags, they asked, are you here to play? yes! Someone kept saying: outdated, outdated. What is outdated? Why don't I understand? It was only later that I realized that the best time had passed, it was outdated, hahaha. They said that when Beidaihe was the hottest, it was July, August, and September, and it was no longer in October, and November was the off-season, and we went in December.

PS: Because Qinhuangdao has very distinct seasons for tourism, there are many mountains and forests in Qinhuangdao, and Beidaihe is the back garden of Beijing. Every summer, state leaders come to Beidaihe for office work, so many mountains here in Qinhuangdao are closed every year. It is said that Lianfeng Mountain will be closed in January. When we went, Jiaoshan and Zushan had already been closed. Whether it is really sealed or not, I didn't implement it, so I can't run to see if it is really sealed, it would be a waste.

When we arrived at Pigeon Nest Park, we found our hotel and booked the Jinwan Holiday Hotel. It is really off-season. There are too many hotels here in peak season, but in off-season, there are only one or two hotels open. Originally, I booked a room with a street view. Anyway, in the off-season, when we took over, we were directly given a room with a sea view. God, God, the earth, I have been lucky for eight lifetimes, and I actually lived in Shanghai in this life. house. . . . . Hahaha

It’s big, forty to fifty square meters, not necessarily five or six hundred a day in peak season, and 111 a day in off-season

Well, I haven't seen a restaurant all the way here, how can I solve the problem of eating! Let's order takeaway, my god, it takes 80 minutes to arrive, and the delivery fee is 15, my god, it's not a cold meal when it comes. . . . .

Finally, I found that the only restaurant on the opposite side was open, let's eat, it's good if it's open.

I ordered a vermicelli minced meat and a Pipi shrimp. Yes, that is, we take Pippi Shrimp.

As for the taste, forget it, eat it, don’t pick and choose, it’s good to have something to eat. It cost 70 bucks.

After eating, I went back to the hotel. There was no one on the side of the road. Don't even think about wandering around at night and blowing the cold wind. There is only one person and one dog in such a street.

This is the road in front of the door, no one is there. . . . . watch tv

D5: Get up early the next morning and go to Pigeon Nest Park at seven o'clock. Tickets are free, the hotel is just next to the pigeon coop, and it takes a few minutes to walk there. The weather was cloudy, and I didn't see the sunrise I wanted to see, but it was good to see the sea in the morning. There are frosts on the trails, and there are few people in the whole park.

Waves hit the shore at night, layer upon layer, empty snow

The waves in the morning were very strong. I walked around the seaside in Pigeon Nest Park and went back to the hotel. After eating the cakes and snacks bought the day before, drinking some cereal, we headed out to Shanhaiguan. Take the No. 34 bus to Sidaoqiao, and prepare to transfer to the bus to Jiaoshan. At this time, a taxi asked us if we were going to Shanhaiguan. I said yes, and he said it was a return trip, which cost 10 yuan, so we agreed. Of course, there are many pits in it, and I will explain it in detail later.

We got in the car and asked which scenic spot we were going to. I said to go to the Great Wall, because Jiaoshan was closed, so I took us to Jiumenkou. Of course, there are pits inside, but we didn't suffer much.

There are many rumors on the Internet that taxi drivers in Qinhuangdao are cheating people, especially when going to the Great Wall at Jiumenkou, they are the king of the tricks. The reason is simple. Although Jiumenkou Great Wall is close to Qinhuangdao, in terms of geographical division, Jiumenkou is located in Suizhong County, Huludao, Liaoning. Jiumenkou is about 20 kilometers away from Shanhaiguan, so many people on the Internet say that taxi drivers will take you there. Let you add money, otherwise I won't pull you back. Because it is too far away, don't mention the tourist bus in the off-season, there is a tourist bus in the peak season. For those of us who travel outside and don’t know the way inside, sometimes the driver tricks us into going to Jiumenkou. Of course, I have no choice this time. The only way to climb the Great Wall is to go to Jiumenkou to climb the Great Wall.

So, friends, if you encounter a taxi driver pulling you in Qinhuangdao, you must first make sure you know where you are going. If you are fooled into going to Jiumenkou (of course, it does not mean that Jiumenkou is not worth going), you must ask and explain clearly before getting on the bus. If you want to go to the Great Wall at Jiumenkou, it is recommended to drive or charter a car, because the traffic is really inconvenient. If it is a chartered car, be sure to clarify the price in advance, where to go, and where to send it. Don’t try to be cheap, throw it into the mountains for you, and it will not be easy for you to come out. Of course, I was a little fooled this time. At the beginning, I just said that 10 yuan would drag me down to Jiumenkou, but when I asked in the car, I found that I really couldn’t go back. Later, the driver said that if the car was chartered, he took us back to Shanhaiguan and took us around several scenic spots in Shanhaiguan. The total was 150, and he agreed. This price is still very worthwhile. From Sidaoqiao Bus Station in Qinhuangdao to Jiumenkou is about 40 kilometers away. Even in the peak season, when there are tourist buses, you will have to spend tens of dollars after visiting such a few scenic spots and reversing the bus, and there is not enough time at all, and you will be exhausted for a day. There is a saying how to spend money wherever you feel comfortable. Chartered cars really save time.

Then we got on the car at Sidaoqiao, and the first stop was the Great Wall at Jiumenkou.

The real Great Wall on water, the city walks on the water, and the water flows in the city

Nine Gates, known as a piece of stone in ancient times, was replaced by Xu Dajian Pass, and a piece of stone pass was replaced by Nine Gates Pass. In the late Ming Dynasty, Li Zicheng's army and Qing soldiers led by Wu Sangui had a stone battle here. In ancient times, wars were fought one pass after another, and Jiumenkou was the first pass. Once Jiumenkou was captured, the next pass was Shanhaiguan. If Shanhaiguan was breached, Luanzhou was next. Once Luanzhou was broken, Then it will be close to the city of Beijing. Therefore, the strategic position of Jiumenkou is very important. It is a pass inside and outside the pass. In history, most of the passers-by to the east of the pass came out of the Shanhai Pass, exited through various Great Wall passes, and entered the Northeast region. Nine Gates can be said to be a pass boasting two provinces, just located on the border of Hebei and Liaoning.

As soon as you enter the door, when you are about to step on the Great Wall, a woman will come out and give you a red rope, saying that it will keep you safe and let you tie it in one place. Of course, the next step is a routine. Will I be fooled? The red rope keeps you safe. It’s okay. It’s auspicious. If you tie it on, I’ll tie it on. After I’m done tying it up, I’ll turn around and leave. Don’t listen to what she says, let’s pray to Buddha or something, don’t pray. Remember, everyone, or don’t pick up the red rope at all, and go directly to the Great Wall.

The Great Wall that is open now was built later. You will not be allowed to climb the unrepaired Great Wall. You can climb the wild Great Wall. For example, there is a Jiankou Great Wall near Beijing. It is said that it has not been developed. Wild Great Wall, the love of many donkey friends. Among the developed and open Great Walls, the Simatai Great Wall in Beijing may be considered the most authentic. I didn't go there, but I did a lot of homework on the Great Wall.

Wengcheng

very narrow passage

The current Great Wall has been repaired, and the archery tower can go up, but in the real ancient times, the archery tower did not have stairs, and the up and down were soft ladders. The undeveloped Great Wall is dilapidated, that is the real Great Wall, and the bricks you see are all different. Jiumenkou Great Wall is not very long, less than two kilometers

PS: Because I have been to the Great Wall at Jiumenkou, I will not go to the Great Wall at the next stop when I arrive in Beijing.

After the Great Wall comes down, there is something different at Jiumenkou. The Great Wall Tunnel was also dug by Xu Da. It is a tunnel that does not pass through Jiumenkou city gate, but can directly pass outside the pass. It can hold 2,000 troops. There are toilets, kitchens, training rooms, etc. inside. A range of expected facilities

very long

There are rumors on the Internet that this tunnel is fake, it was an air-raid shelter during the Anti-Japanese War. I am not a researcher of history, and I don’t want to investigate whether it is true or false. It is also the blood and sweat of ancestors for military use.

The Great Wall at Nine Gates, including tunnels, usually takes two hours to play.

Afterwards, we drove to Shanhaiguan City.

Shanhaiguan is a city gate, just like the city wall of Xi'an, but it is not as big as the city wall of Xi'an. I think it took me nearly four hours to walk around the city wall of Xi'an.

This is the west gate of Shanhaiguan, with the word Shanhaiguan, and then go to the east gate, which is the famous first pass in the world.

I don’t recommend you to go to Guancheng. First of all, it’s not very interesting. It’s nothing more than the words of the first pass in the world. It’s okay to look outside. There is another saying that the local old people don’t let their family members go. It is said that going to the customs will suppress your fortune, haha, if you really want to go, there is nothing to do, just buy a ticket.

Next, I went to the Wang Family Courtyard, don’t worry, this Wang Family Courtyard is not the Wang Family Courtyard in Shanxi, neither of them exists, but the home of the Wang Family Courtyard in Shanhaiguan came from Shanxi, and they were Shanxi merchants. The current Wang Family Courtyard is a folk museum. It is said that the Wang Family Courtyard used to be the place where Chen Yuanyuan lived.

root carving

When I went there, the Wang Family Courtyard happened to be during this period of time, and the free tour guide was also half price.

After coming out of the Wang family compound, I went to the Great Wall Museum. There are three Great Wall museums across the country, one in Shanhaiguan, one in Jiayuguan, one end and one tail, echoing each other, and there is another one in Beijing. In the Great Wall Museum, you can learn about the origin and evolution of the Great Wall in detail. After walking around the Great Wall Museum for an hour, I took a car out of Shanhaiguan City. Because it is the off-season, there is almost no food for sale in Shanhaiguan, and the four steamed buns that are very popular on the Internet are not open. Later I learned that four steamed buns are selling tourists. The steamed stuffed buns are nothing special, except that they are bigger than normal steamed stuffed buns, and the steamed stuffed buns come out slowly, and you have to wait. Once you wait, there will be a long queue, and once you queue up, the more people will buy it. Hunger marketing. After coming out of the museum, go to the old dragon head. There is no need to go to the old dragon head. It is just a section that stretches into the sea. From an angle outside, you can see the old dragon head.

This is the end of the old dragon head after watching it, do you still want to go? It might not be as good as looking at it from a distance. I was on the beach next to it, and I didn't enter the Laolongtou scenic spot. This beach is very beautiful, and I also picked up a lot of miscellaneous shells that the locals are not rare

There are a lot of locals picking clams on the beach, I can't tell the difference, just pick the shells, haha

The bus stop is usually at A. After getting off the bus, walk along the direction of the road color arrow and walk through a city wall culvert, and you will see a beach. This beach is connected to Laolongtou Beach, and you can clearly see Laolongtou, so There is no need to enter the scenic spot. Of course, if you want to appreciate the sunset, you should climb to the old dragon head.

As for the Meng Jiangnu Temple, you can go there if you want, but it’s just a temple, and I personally think it’s not very meaningful.

Buses 33 and 25 all go to downtown Qinhuangdao, and we got off at Sidaoqiao again. The Sidaoqiao station is a hub with many buses. Because I didn't bring any extra dry food, I didn't eat much all day, so I ate a twist at noon, which I bought in Tianjin. It was only after four o'clock when I arrived in the city, so I searched for food in the city and found a pastry shop. This will allow me to buy more dry food, and I have to buy breakfast for the next day, and the place where I live is even less crowded. . I ate some pastries and continued to stroll, it was too early. I strolled to the People's Park, and came out after a few minutes, looking for something to eat. Finally found a pork rib rice.

See if you have appetite, group purchase, 15/part

I was too full to eat. After eating, I walked to Qinhuangdao Railway Station. I have to leave here the next day.

The last bus is at 19:30, is it very early, there is no way, take the bus back at seven o’clock, dare not bet on the last bus, No. 34, directly to the pigeon nest.

D6: I slept until almost seven o’clock the next day. I looked outside, the sky was clear, and I could watch the sunrise today. Oh, I got up quickly. As soon as I put on my clothes, I didn’t brush my teeth. Nest Park, I came here once yesterday, and I am familiar with the road today. It was early today, and no one had yet climbed up. There was a photographer driving a long gun and a short gun on the deep beach. The sky has turned red and the sun is beginning to emerge.

The sun rose very fast, and in just a few minutes, the sun had already left the sea level, and the sunlight began to dazzle. The excitement of watching the sunrise has made people forget that this is by the sea and the cold sea breeze. There are very few people on the beach in winter, and you can enjoy the most beautiful pictures quietly watching the sunrise without worrying about being full of people. The sun shining on the snow is really an unforgettable experience.

The mobile phone is not a SLR, and the sunrise still lacks beauty. This kind of beauty can only be felt. When you are on the scene, it is an indescribable feeling in your heart. The seagulls in the distance are sitting on the sea, going up and down with the waves, basking in the winter sun.

Just in time for the Pigeon Nest to be free of tickets. During the peak season, you will definitely have to charge money, but friends don’t have to enter the Pigeon Nest Park. There is a place where you can still watch the sunrise

The Pigeon Nest is the place with a yellow circle. The entrance of the Pigeon Nest is on Gechi Road. Go forward on the Pigeon Nest Road, pass the entrance of the Pigeon Nest, pass the Migratory Bird Museum, walk to the seaside avenue, turn right and walk along this road. It was built along the seashore, with a wetland for migratory birds next to it, a sandy beach trail, and a bridge further ahead. This is a good place to watch the sunrise, absolutely unobstructed (there is an eagle beak in the pigeon nest If you don’t make it right, your sunrise angle will be blocked by the Eagle’s Mouth Cliff. When there are many people, you will be looking for land). This is a good place to watch the sunrise without entering the pigeon nest. The beach in this place is connected to the pigeon nest, so you don’t need to enter the pigeon nest.


After watching the sunrise, I went back to the hotel, washed up, ate the breakfast I bought yesterday, packed up and got ready to go, handed over the room at the front desk, took the No. 34 bus, and arrived at Sidaoqiao again, haha, it was Sidaoqiao again. After getting off the car, I took a shared bicycle (Qinhuangdao has Hellobike, but Beidaihe Shanhaiguan does not have it. During the peak season, some may be released, but there is no off-season) and ride to the place where Qinhuangqiuxian enters the sea. This place is in Qinhuangdao It is next to Qinhuangdao Port, but Qinhuangdao Port is really in decline. It doesn’t look like what a port should be at all. In the back garden of Beijing, the environment is very important. How can the leaders who come here be convinced? Haha, just develop tourism.

There is absolutely no need to go into the sea. The most important thing is to go into the sea. Where is it? Go forward, turn right, and you can see a large beach. The sand here is very fine, and it stretches into the sea for a long time. There is a plank road for seeking immortality.

Taken on the plank road, already in the sea

a long stretch into the sea

Bye bye to Haibei, then I will also bye bye

Very fine sand, very beautiful beach

See that little head in the middle? At noon, someone went for a winter swim. It was amazing. It was cold when we stood by the beach, and they were swimming in the sea. . .

very nice beach

Seeing the misty sea, I couldn't help but want to recite "Ah~ the sea~ you are all water..."

It’s already past twelve o’clock here, so hurry up and ride back. On the way to or from the station, I came across a supermarket. Go in and buy something. I bought a pack of Harbin red sausage for the next stop in Beijing. , a pack of baguettes, and a pack of small oranges. It was only when I arrived in Beijing that I realized how correct this decision was.

On the way, I had lunch and steamed stuffed buns. Haha, steamed stuffed buns again. The train departed for Beijing at 2:30.


Fees: Tianjin to Beidaihe ticket 110*2, accommodation in Beidaihe 111*2, Jiumenkou Great Wall 60*2, chartered car 150, and bus fees for shopping and eating, Qinhuangdao mobile cost 965


Buses in Qinhuangdao are 2 yuan. I don't know if it is 1 yuan in the off-season, but there is a saying on the Internet that buses are divided into off-peak and peak seasons. If you go to Qinhuangdao in the off-season, it is recommended to live in Qinhuangdao District. Beidaihe has a good environment, but there are no people there. There are no places to sell or eat. Don’t go shopping at night, the air can freeze you to death. Living in Qinhuangdao is still worth living at night. Can meet some people. In peak season, it is easy, but it is not recommended to live in Shanhaiguan, the conditions are relatively poor. According to the locals, you can enter the village in Shanhaiguan within ten minutes by bicycle. Haha, the conditions are almost worse than those in Qinhuangdao and Beidaihe. Qinhuangdao is suitable for living slowly. If you have nothing to do, it is very comfortable to live in Qinhuangdao for ten days and half a month to taste slowly, and the environment is very good, with many negative oxygen ions.


In our Zhengzhou, that is to inhale PM2.5 PM10, so when I arrived in Beidaihe suddenly, I was not used to it and was drunk on oxygen.


The smog is still pure in my hometown~ Looking at the sky in Zhengzhou, you want to wipe it with a rag, it’s so dirty, there’s nothing to love


The next stop is Beijing, the strategy continues