Let's go to Tibet
I was locked up at home in Quanzhou for more than 30 days this spring. I missed Linzhi’s peach blossoms. I bought a direct flight ticket from Fujian to Tibet just after the lockdown was lifted. At that time, I was most afraid of passing by places that I shouldn’t pass by and bringing unnecessary unnecessary troubles to myself. After arriving in Lhasa, I stayed for 14 days and eliminated all the itineraries before I started wandering around Tibet.
Medog, Medog
After staying in Tibet for 3 months, I went to Medog, the legendary lotus holy land. It took us a day to get there from Lhasa to Bomi. At that time, I already had the idea of riding. I saw the passing mountain roads, tunnels, forests, snow-capped mountains and groups of yaks all the way. I imagined that I would not Cycling along the road.
It was raining in Medog when we went, and the wet weather made it impossible to feel that this was in Tibet. I just drank a cup of coffee at the foot of the Galongla Snow Mountain, but after passing through a tunnel, I came to the virgin forest full of banana trees. Wandering in Medog, you can see terraced fields with rice, flowering erythrina trees and magical thatched huts.
Perhaps for many people, Medog is the last county town in China with roads, which is a bit of a feeling. But in fact, for me, Mrs. Medog is like Fujian. Fujian has eight mountains, one water and one field, basically entering the mountainous area is like this in the winding forest; the difference is that in the Green Village of Medogbeibeng Township, you can see the Namjagbarwa Peak at a close distance . Of course, we only encountered Medog in the rain, and naturally we had no chance to see it. What I think is the most special is the different landscapes on both sides of the Galongla Snow Mountain.
Riding Yamdrok and Pumoyongcuo
For a period of time, I seemed to have lost the desire to express myself, and even my circle of friends was only superficially looking at pictures and talking.
When I wanted to ride the Yunnan-Tibet Line, I thought that I had to go to Yanghu Lake before I could start, because I didn’t know how much I could bear at high altitude. When I had an idea, I started to prepare. I bought a second-hand bicycle. I bought all the panniers, raincoats, and cycling clothes in one month.
I mentioned to Joe before that he wanted to ride Yanghu Lake, and he told me to remember to call him if he wanted to go. On the day of my departure, I sent him a message saying that I was going to Yanghu. Put on the inner tube liner and tire patch.
After four days of cycling in Yanghu Lake, it was only 200+ kilometers, and I was really tired. What is more gratifying is that I really rode up the 5010-meter pass in Pumoyongcuo. In the starry sky bubble house, I hid in the glass room and asked Ajia for a glass of boiled water. It may be the first time for Joe to come to Pumo, but he was more excited and went to the lake, while I was in the glass room looking out the window. Beautiful scenery, after a short rest, they continued to walk 10 kilometers by the Pumoyongcuo Lake at an altitude of 5000+ to Tuwa Village.
At this time, my fear of the Yunnan-Tibet line was basically eliminated. At worst, I should ride slower.
Ali in-depth tour ( Lhasa - Gang Rinpoche - Zanda Tulin - Guge Dynasty - Gaize - Nagqu - Lhasa )
After riding Yanghu Lake, I made an appointment with Momo to go to Ali for a deep play. At the pre-departure meeting, some scripts for shooting were recorded. After a happy hot pot meal, the trip to Ali was full of dust.
He said that he told the old man who had been watching Dongga Piyang for decades, and asked him to help open the door and let us visit two or three holes. Paula, who was in her eighties, came slowly with the key. I thought he might have a relationship with me. As soon as he saw me, he took my hand and climbed up the mountain, and gave me the key directly to open the cave door. The murals inside are beautiful. The murals of the Guge Dynasty seem to have been refined, and the murals of Donggapiyang reveal a trace of primitive flavor.
I watched the starry sky a few times in Ali. Chasing the starry sky requires the right time, place and people. It is obviously not suitable for me to go out alone all the year round. Firstly, my driving skills are not good, and secondly, I dare not go to a dark place alone. Take pictures of the starry sky in the wilderness. Fortunately, this trip to Ali has a companion, and we can shoot together. Even if you are shivering in the cold wind at an altitude of 5,000 meters, you still have to drink a can of beer to relieve your alcohol addiction.
Let’s ride the Yunnan-Tibet Line (Lhasa-Gongpo Jiangda-Nyingchi-Lulang)
The anxiety of cycling in Yunnan and Tibet disappeared the moment the suitcase was sent away. Think about it, when I came, I dragged a suitcase, and when I left, I sent a suitcase and an extra bicycle. I really only want to ride after arriving in Tibet. Since I think about it, I will do it.
No one knows if there will be such courage in the next second, to spend 20 or 30 days on the road of life, to measure a section of route with bicycle tires.
A day in Lhasa often starts at 12:00 noon. I have nothing to do every day, I can’t write copywriting, and the photos and photos have not made breakthroughs. I wake up every day and think about what I’m going to eat today? It still feels like a waste of time. Simply don't wait for anything, and start directly. The most difficult thing is to decide the step of starting. I tidied up the room. This small room has been reserved for me for more than a year. I think it's time to say goodbye temporarily and leave it for those who need it. The next time I come to Tibet, I don’t know when it will be, maybe soon, maybe a long time. It doesn't matter, anyway, for Tibet, I have no regrets.
The Ancient Tea Horse Road (Lhasa - Qamdo section)
When I left, I vowed that I was going to ride the Yunnan-Tibet line from Lhasa to Lulang, and a friend asked me to walk the ancient tea-horse road with me, starting from Lhasa, all the way to Nyingchi, Bomi, Ranwu, and Qamdo. Isn’t it the same as the Yunnan-Tibet route I’m going to ride this time?
I received the invitation at the Sejila Pass. I pushed the car and walked on the high mountain, cursing myself as a XX, so I couldn't figure out why I came to ride. The other side agreed directly, well, I'd better take a car tour with you on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. '
So riding the Yunnan-Tibet line turned into driving the Tibet section of the Yunnan-Tibet line. The Ancient Tea-Horse Road goes all the way across mountains, through mountains, forests, grasslands, glaciers, and lakes. On this road, I imagine mules, horses, tea, salt, and medicinal materials in ancient times. The sound, every little element, made me fantasize about the hardships of the ancient caravan crossing the eighteen bends of the mountain road and trekking long distances.
Fani Ancient Road (Lhasa - Everest Base Camp - Jilonggou)
When I arrived in Qamdo, I was still planning to continue riding, but I was tempted to go to Fanni Ancient Road again. The ancient Fanni Road is from Lhasa-Shigatse-Jilong. In ancient times, the ancient Fanni Road went out from Jilong to Nepal and India. For me, the most attractive part of this route is Jilonggou. Last winter, I drove once with a lunatic in Jilonggou Village, a mountaintop village surrounded by snow-capped mountains. At that time, I said that the summer here must be very beautiful. As expected, the green grassland was full of flowers, and the snow-capped mountains were looming in the clouds.
We took a taxi from Geelong Town to Nomura. The moment I got off the car and went up the mountain, I forgot how to press the shutter. Just staring blankly at the picture in front of me, maybe the picture is not very good-looking, it must be because the picture cannot explain its beauty.
This travel note mainly records some diaries of riding in Tibet this year. Because there is no specific route, we can’t give too much help on the route, but the supplies needed for riding and the matters to be paid attention to will be explained at the end of the article.
1. Go to Najin Mountain to see the prayer flags
Go to Xiaomei Inn, chat with a friend who just rode Bingchacha and Gang Rinpoche for a while, and recorded some precautions for riding. Xiaomei said that when she wanted to ride 318, she gave up because she went to Najin Mountain. She never thought that I would go from Sambuza School to Jingfan Pass in two hours.
There is a huge array of prayer flags at the pass of Najin Mountain. It is very close to Lhasa. Many people will come here to check in. It is also the only place to go to Zayeba Temple. A large piece of prayer flags fluttered with the wind, and the sound was pleasant to the ear. Stopped on the mountain and just watched the prayer flags fluttering with the wind.
They are decorated on the majestic snowy pure land like a rainbow, swaying between the earth and the sky. Blue, white, red, green and yellow symbolize the sky, clouds, flames, rivers and the earth respectively.
I am a person who is not familiar with bicycles at all and knows nothing, so I just ride when I say ride. I have consulted many friends who have ridden on the Internet, and the most important thing is to exercise and ride every day. So during that time, I often rode everywhere in Lhasa, east, west, north, south, from the first 20 kilometers to the last 50 kilometers.
But I'm really not familiar with the car, and I don't even know how high the seat height should be. Fortunately, I met old C when I rode Yanghu Lake for the first time, and I felt that I had found an organization. He has a slow 20 bicycle club in the east of Lhasa. So far, every time I have a problem with the bike, I will go to him.
2. Failed to ride to Yanghu Lake
I woke up in the morning and vowed to go to Yanghu Lake. That night, I changed into clean and comfortable clothes and lay in a warm bed. I thought of the scene of riding in the torrential rain with an empty stomach in the afternoon, soaked pants, shoes, half-fingered gloves, and fingers that were cold to the bone. Maybe only after such a painful experience can I feel that ordinary days are also very happy.
In the morning, I soaked some oatmeal and set off around nine o'clock. The destination is Gangba Village at the foot of Yanghu Lake, 80 kilometers away from Lhasa. I prepared a week to go around Yanghu Lake. After arriving at the Nie Dang Buddha in one breath, I took a look at the Buddha on the wall and was about to continue riding. I met two riders.
My car is light at the front and heavy at the back, and it leans back even if I push it a little bit. Seeing that my seat cushion is not suitable, old C asked if I brought any tools, so I cleaned my seat cushion, armrests, disc brakes, and brakes three times and five times. And the support rods are all done.
They said that they went to Zhu Temple and passed Zhuoma Lakang on the way, and we walked for a while together. After visiting Zhuoma Lakang together, this is the temple of Master Atisha. I left and continued walking, the weather gradually became clear and clear, but I felt strange, oh, it turned out that the rear tire had blown out. Quickly stopped to have a look, to tell the truth, the first tire repair. I found the tire repair video steps on the side of the road, and called Mao to ask how to take out the tire. Great, after an hour I finally got it done.
At the same time, the old C suggested that the position of the broken tire should be close to the steel ring. It is estimated that the problem is quite serious. If I continue to go to Yanghu Lake, there is a high probability that the tire will blow out continuously, so I will simply go back to Lhasa. The two of them came down from Zhusi, worried that I would be too broken alone, so they rode in my direction to meet me. Due to the lack of tire pressure, I didn’t dare to inflate too much air. All the way around corners, against the wind, and uphill, the old C would hold me side by side and let me rest without stepping on it. It really took a lot of effort.
I also asked: "Why do you come when the wind is headwind, so you will need more strength to pedal the bike?"
He said: "Helping people is to help you in the most difficult time. You can even step on the flat road to help you. Why do you help?"
I stopped to rest in a village, thinking that there would be food to eat, but there was no. It was already 18:40, and I hadn't eaten for a day. It was obviously raining heavily in the direction of Lhasa in the distance. I was really exhausted, but they still encouraged me to move on. Immediately afterwards, there was heavy rain for nearly an hour, and I was drenched in water for the first time riding a long journey.
It was raining heavily to hide from the rain, so I could only call my strong supporter Yixi, "Come and pick me up. I'm dying of cold." I waited at the checkpoint for about 20 minutes, and returned home 23 kilometers in the car It took 45 minutes, if I step home, it will take at least three hours according to my physical strength.
Although I failed to ride Yanghu Lake for the first time, I became more courageous and set off again after a few days of rest.
3. Cycling to Yanghu Lake successfully D1 Lhasa-Yanghu Gangba Village, 80km, basically flat road
When I was about to leave in the morning, it was cloudy and it felt like it was going to rain, but I still set off. I went to Yanghu Lake to Gangba Village at 11:00 in the morning. The journey was 80 kilometers away. The friend who sold my bicycle stayed here tonight. The villa I opened has not officially opened yet.
Not long after the departure, the rear tire broke again. I guessed it was due to the problem of the inner lining of the tire. As expected, fortunately, I had learned tire repair and loading and unloading at the old C for a day before departure, and two of them were broken. The hole in the tire was repaired.
Continue to go forward, fortunately, there is no rain on the top of the head today, just riding at a normal temperature all the way. I was a little tired in the last 20 kilometers. Regardless of whether the journey has completed the Yanghu Lake or not, at least I have set off.
D2 Gangba Village - Gangbala Mountain - Baidi Township
The cumulative climb is 1231 meters, and the mileage is 61km.
Depart at 10:30 in the morning and arrive at Baidi Township at 19:35.
Last night Joe told me that today he was going to take a shuttle bus to ride with me at the foot of Yanghu Mountain. I also told him to help me bring the tire repair patch, worrying that it would not be enough. He had already passed Gangba Village, and asked me if I wanted to take the bus directly. I kept shaking my head no. I still insisted in my heart and said: "I must climb up by myself, and push up." Of course, I don't know who gave me the confidence?
But to be honest, on the slope of Gangbala Mountain, two hours have passed every minute and every second, and it feels like only one third of it has been walked! Just at this moment, a big Tibetan brother driving a truck asked if he wanted to take you two for a journey? I immediately nodded my head desperately, admitting when it's time to confess.
When the two of us got off the truck, we were only 5 kilometers away from the Gangbala Pass. I was really happy, but we still pushed for nearly an hour on this road. If it wasn't for the ten-odd-kilometer car ride, it would be Baidi Village at most right now. I went down the mountain at a galloping speed, found a good place and ate a bowl of self-heating rice by the lake, and the happiness of eating with Yanghu Lake was overwhelming. This is still the rice that Joe brought. My luggage is already heavy enough, only simple dry food.
Yanghu Lake is really the most beautiful of all the lakes in Tibet. There are various poses and different forms, and each picture is different. The whole shape of Yanghu Lake is like a coral branch, or it would be more appropriate to describe it as a scorpion. It brings many different pictures, no matter which angle you are at, you can't see the whole picture of Yanghu Lake.
Yanghu means "coral lake above" in Tibetan. It is at an altitude of about 4,500 meters. It stopped at Baidi Township at 19 o'clock in the evening. Langkazi County is still 20 kilometers away. The only homestay offers 200. Not enough water pressure, no water. I bargained to 175, asked for two rooms, and ate a bowl of Tibetan noodles at the door. Today is over.
D3 Baidi Township - Langkazi County - Dalong Town
Only rode 44 kilometers
I dawdled with Joe in the morning, and it was estimated that I would not start until ten o'clock. On the third day of cycling around Yanghu Lake, I finally picked up my camera and took some pictures. Yanghu Lake, which has been photographed countless times, still feels so beautiful. Cycling is slower than motorcycles, and many scenery will not be missed. It would be nice to have a high quality pocket camera.
Joe was more foresighted. Seeing the dark clouds in the distance, there happened to be a visitor center that had been repaired but the gate was closed next to it. Dalong Town is only 15 kilometers away, and the hail has been falling for a long time. It would be too boring for us to ride in raincoats, so we decided to rest in Dalong Town after the hailstorm passed.
Compared with five years ago, only temples were available for lodging in Dalong Town. Now it is much better. At least there are rooms for Tibetan people, and there are toilets on the same floor. When I saw that there was a faucet and a kettle, I immediately stayed there and took a bath under difficult conditions. Very comfortable. I asked Ajia if she had a hair dryer, and she replied, "No, haha, you can dry your hair in the sun," so I am really basking in the sun now.
The food in the town is nothing more than Tibetan restaurants, halal noodle restaurants and barbecues. Joe didn't want to eat, so I went out for a walk by myself. When he came back, he said, why don't we turn a corner tomorrow and go to Pumoyongcuo? I'm the same person, whatever, let's go, I have forgotten about Huanyang Lake.
D4 Dalong Town - Pumoyongcuo - Dui Village
The cycling mileage is 44 kilometers, the cumulative climb is 577 meters, and the highest altitude is 5059 meters.
When we woke up in the morning, the two of us thought that it was only 40 kilometers away, and we would spend one night at Pumoyongcuo Lake, and it would be okay to start later. Who would have thought that climbing a hill with an altitude of more than 5,000 meters is really fatal, let alone a bicycle with luggage.
It is only 13 kilometers from the foot of the mountain to the pass. We climbed for about 6 hours, and the tortoise crawled at a speed of 2 kilometers per hour, all by pushing it up. We ate a self-heating hot pot halfway in the mountains. A shepherdess happened to be sitting with us. There were dark clouds and thunder in the distance. I was especially afraid of rain. I was so afraid of bad weather, why would I want to ride? What about the Yunnan-Tibet line?
I finally came to Pumoyongcuo after rolling and climbing. The starry sky bubble house in Yakou was not open yet. A few local people looked at it a little bit. Ajia saw that I came by bicycle and asked me if I could live here, but there was no quilt. . How can I live without a quilt, otherwise this is really a very good campsite.
I still rode 10 kilometers forward to the 5070 in Dui Village. During the last 10 kilometers, the soles of my feet were numb. On Gang Day, everything was worth watching Rizhao Jinshan in the cold and windy weather. After dinner in the lake view hall, turn off the lights, my god, the sky is full of stars. I saw that the silver heart would come up after 23 o'clock on the mobile phone, and I hadn't had time to take off my shoes to cushion my feet this day, and I took pictures of the starry sky until midnight.
I surrendered and stopped riding. I will take a shuttle bus back to Lhasa tomorrow.
4. Set off alone to ride the Yunnan-Tibet line for 7 days D1 Lhasa-Mozhugongka
Kilometers today: 75km
Key words: 35 kilometers with friends laughing and laughing and 40 kilometers alone
It just so happened that Old C’s cycling club made an appointment to give me a ride together, which doesn’t sound like a good ride, anyway, as long as the time we play together is happy.
Departure at 10 o'clock in the morning, pack and arrange luggage after 8 o'clock, and leave for the club on time at 9:30. When I came here, I ate an omelet pancake, which made me so salty that I drank two glasses of water. One after another, all the riders arrived, those who had breakfast, those who tuned the car, we dawdled until 11 o'clock before we set off for National Highway 318.
It used to be an unremarkable stretch of road, and for a period of time, we chatted with Guo Wen about the same frequency of cycling. I think his bike is a bit old, and he said that this bike has been with him for more than ten years. By the way, he also told me about Bingchacha, which he rode in the distant 2012, riding without supplies for several days, and the sadness on the bumpy cliff dirt road. Let me say something quickly, then I'd better ride the route that is mature enough to buy a bottle of happy water at any time.
Joe also came here today. In line with the revolutionary friendship between the two of us riding together to Pumoyongcuo, let’s say goodbye by riding together, but he told me that he will go to Gansu on Monday. The business trip to Tibet may also come to an end temporarily. Then, goodbye Jianghu.
I'm still asking Guowen, do you know if the lavender in Dazi is open? A few minutes later, old C rode up and asked if he wanted to turn around and take a look at the lavender. With this in mind, the large team walked towards the direction of lavender. Not only the romantic lavender bloomed, but also the golden rapeseed flowers bloomed.
If you want to see lavender, you only need to search for "Beira, Dazi District" on the map. It only takes 40 minutes to drive from Lhasa. It should be noted that after passing the Dazi checkpoint, do not take the expressway, just turn directly to National Highway 318. . This is the first lavender base in Tibet, and it is open for free, and there is also a free parking lot inside. If you find the right angle, coupled with the unique blue sky, white clouds and mountains of the plateau, it is still very beautiful to take pictures.
I came to Beira again this year and passed by the village. The murals on the house are all the mountains around Lhasa and patches of lavender. When I walked into the base, it was even more fragrant with roses. A purple ocean was in front of me, and I felt an inexplicable sense of happiness. pregnancy.
After the tour, we continued to ride forward, and soon came to the old Dazi Bridge. This bridge full of prayer flags is no longer allowed to go up. The weather today is very good all the way. The blue sky and white clouds are reflected on the river bed. The scenery Very beautiful. The Sichuan-Tibet Highway to Mozhugongka started from Lhasa along the Lhasa River at the beginning. There are mountains and waters, which are so beautiful.
When I set off in the morning, the rider Li Wei was still shouting to buy a cup of coffee. I was really afraid, especially in the next two or three days. The first mountain I will climb is the Mira Mountain with an altitude of more than 5,000 meters. In the end, I still gave up I didn't bring a full set of coffee equipment, so I simply gave up drinking coffee. Who would have thought that when we were hungry, there would be a "roadside coffee" on the side of the road!
Needless to say, let's have an iced Americano first. Sitting under a sun umbrella, chatting, drinking coffee and eating melon seeds, I asked if the owner of the car came from Shandong? In the end, she said that she was worried about her daughter driving to Tibet alone, so she followed. So the mother and daughter drove a car to Tibet and admired it.
Seeing the beautiful scenery, everyone stopped to take pictures to enjoy the scenery. It was just such a turn, and old C said: "Then we will send you here." I didn't even realize that I was stepping on the bicycle, and the speed continued to move forward, so I had to say, "bye bye, bye bye".
But at that moment, I was still a little lost and scared, and I was really alone. Soon, I got used to the process.
Joe said I left in such a hurry that I didn't even take a farewell video. I chuckled: "It's a pity that I only took a sip of jasmine tea in your cart." Sure enough, I drank up all the water in my thermos, but there were few villages along the way, let alone canteens. At this time, I went back to the idea of riding in Yanghu, "I don't want you to call me come on, I just want you to stop and give me a bottle of Red Bull."
After 35 kilometers alone, and because there was no water in the car, I soon arrived in Mozhugongka County. Wandering around in the county town, I found a single room on the first floor. The room was nice, with a lot of hot water. You can carry your bicycle into the room, which is very nice.
When I went out to eat my first meal today, it was already 7:30 in the evening, and the sun was still bright. I found a rice noodle shop and prepared just one bowl. I never thought that the shop added a lot of pepper, and it was almost impossible to eat it. I can only buy three bottles of beer, so I'll make it for dinner tonight.
Back at the hotel, I thought about continuing to ride a bike, only to find that there is a wetland next door, which is unbelievably beautiful. I asked my friends who had been sitting in Linka, how to get in? They asked me to climb over the wall. Although it was not good to write, I really climbed over the wall and went in to feel the nature. By the way, I played football with them for a while, and almost kicked Gao Fan out.
Since I removed the pannier bag, I didn’t notice that the bike was top-heavy at this time, so I accidentally fell over the bike twice while eating dinner. broken.
I was about to burst into tears. It took a person who had never done needlework several times a needle stick and it took an hour and a half to sew them together. The point is that I sent a photo to Yixi, and she said, "Why is this stitch so unique, there is a feeling of advocating freedom, and every stitch lands in an unexpected place." I was really angry and laughed when I saw it myself, so Embarrassing things fit only in today's cycling diary.
Forget it, the road you choose, you have to finish it no matter what, although it is only 70 kilometers away from Lhasa. But I don’t look back, I will continue to ride the Yunnan-Tibet line tomorrow!
D2 Mozhugongka - Riduo - Mila Mountain Pass - Songduo
Kilometers today: 116km
Key words: heart-warming buttered tea and motorbike pull rope up the mountain
It rained all night last night, crackling accompanied by rumbling thunder, the hotel's sound insulation was extremely poor, and I couldn't sleep listening to the snoring next door. In the morning, I vaguely heard that it was still raining. When I woke up, I opened the curtains, and the sky was covered with dark clouds. Fortunately, I only planned to ride 50 kilometers to Riduo, and against the gloomy sky, I felt like God blesses me not to get wet in the rain.
After riding hard for 20 kilometers, I arrived at Zhaxigang Village. Seeing that it was going to rain again, I found a Tibetan restaurant and ordered a bowl of beef noodles. When I came out after eating, the sun shone faintly on my body, and when I looked up, the blue sky began to appear on the road ahead. Take off the jacket, put on the sun hat, and continue to set off.
I was riding very slowly, looking around, but fortunately, there was a GoPro in front of the car, and I was able to record my current thoughts while recording. Several times, the oncoming riders were tanned red. They were running all the way west, chasing the direction of the sun. And I went to the east, slept a little late every day, and started at eleven or twelve o'clock. At this time, the sun was either above my head or behind me. I guess I rode along the light to Mangkang District. , the chance of being exposed to the sun is probably only when you go over mountains and mountains, a little happy.
The weather on the plateau is like a child’s face, happy and sunny but not happy when it’s raining, Ajia in the distant field is waving to me, holding a cup. I slowed down, and she called me in to drink butter tea, and she also brought barley cakes for me to eat together.
You can taste the sweetness inside the highland barley cakes. Ajia asked me to soak the highland barley cakes in buttered tea before eating, which would be more delicious. I was thinking, don't you think this is the best dry food on the road? It is sweet and salty, and all the ingredients needed by the body are in it.
Ajia and his husband's labor tools are still around, and asked if they are farming? It turns out that now is the time to plant highland barley, and there are some rapeseeds that they have planted in the field. They basically don't speak Chinese, they can only understand a little bit, and of course I can't understand Tibetan, but sometimes a smile is the best body language. I think this is probably why I want to ride alone, so that I can meet different people.
I have been traveling for a long time, and the scenery is always there, but every time I meet people, I am uncertain. If there is a companion by your side, then the chances of talking with strangers will definitely be reduced. It is especially good to be alone. You can leave when you want, and stop when you want.
A lot of this journey is parallel to the highway. The road is full of ups and downs and I am a little panting. Seeing that I am only seven kilometers away from the destination where I will be staying, there is a motorcycle rider in the same direction as me. stopped.
He asked me, "Would you like some water?"
Me: "No need."
He: "I have Coke."
My eyes were shining instantly, brother, did you peek at my diary yesterday? "I don't want you shouting cheers, you stop and give me a bottle of Red Bull." The nature of Happy Water and Red Bull is the same, both are practical support, not spiritual support, which is very good.
So we chatted casually and talked about the arrangement for a while.
Me: "I still have a few kilometers to go. I will try to climb Mount Mira tomorrow. This is my first mountain on the Yunnan-Tibet line. Go up slowly. If you can't do it, let's talk."
He: "Otherwise I can pull you up."
Me: "No, it's too embarrassing, isn't it?"
He: "Really, it depends on whether you want it or not. Anyway, I have an inelastic rope."
At this time, it is only about 32 kilometers away from the Mira Pass. I thought, try? Really, I thought that if I really can't do it, I will take a ride. Who would have thought that the first ride in Yunnan and Tibet would be a motorcycle. Admit it when it’s time to admit it, and set off, maybe you can go to Songdo to soak in a hot spring.
It went very smoothly, we reached the top of the mountain at about 7 o'clock at a speed of 30 hours. Untie the rope and go down the mountain by yourself. After riding 30 kilometers, you will come to Songdo. Riduo Broth and Songduo Hot Springs used to be inevitable places on National Highway 318. Now, due to the convenience of Linla Expressway, these two county towns have also disappeared.
At present, the only inn in Songduo is prepared for riders, and the conditions can be imagined to be bad, and you can only make do with it for one night. After dinner, I went to Songdo Hot Spring with my motorcycle rider to soak in the hot springs. He was camping at the hot springs tonight, and I rode 2 kilometers back to the inn after soaking in the hot springs. Songdo Hot Spring is still the same as a few years ago, 20 yuan per person, men and women are separated, and you can soak naked. You can stay in a Tibetan bed next to the hot spring, 25 yuan per person.
Today's active riding is 80 kilometers, hybrid riding is 30 kilometers, and an additional 5 kilometers is completed by going to and from the hot springs.
For the record, I lost a pair of gloves yesterday and broke the glass today, but an accidental rider gave me another pair of warm gloves. See you tomorrow.
D3 Songdo-Gongbu Jiangda
Kilometers today: 98km
Keywords: physical discomfort, rest early
After nine o'clock, I was awakened by the sunlight outside the window, and I simply got up. Thinking about it now, I still dislike that inn. In fact, it can be better. After all, the basic conditions are there, but Songduo is the only inn left now. It is almost dirty and people will still stay there.
I woke up in the morning and left the store without even drinking a cup of hot water. I hurriedly found a supermarket that was open and thought it would be okay to have a cup of milk tea. The owner of the supermarket told me that I could move forward. Shop for breakfast. I immediately ordered a bowl of soup dumplings, probably because it has been two months since I came out, and I don’t think all the food outside is delicious, I can only say that it fills my stomach.
After eating half of the soup dumplings, I set off for the direction of Gongbu Jiangda. I have no confidence in today's 98 kilometers, and it started to rain less than 15 kilometers away. I hurriedly found a culvert under the expressway to hide from the rain, and put on the rain cover of the camera bag and pantry bag by the way. After I put on the rain pants, the sky was sunny again, and I believed in God and continued to move forward.
It is estimated that it is less than 3 kilometers, and it began to rain again and it was not small. I could only stop and continue to put on my raincoat before walking. At this moment, the motorcycle boy who pulled me up the Mira Pass yesterday stopped.
"Hey, I thought you should leave early in the morning. Why, you are so late."
"I'm sleeping."
It makes sense, I found out that I was not feeling well today after I went out, and I originally planned to stay at someone else's house if I couldn't walk halfway through. Who would have thought that this little brother appeared just right, so we continued to use a rope to connect the bicycle and the motorcycle. I didn't dare to be sloppy at all. at a safe distance. I thought this was the last trailer, and safety was the most important thing.
The villages and rapeseed fields passing by in a flash, and the Niyang River heading east are all the way by my side, especially the first valley section of the Niyang River. I remembered the mainstay I saw when I first entered Tibet. This location is always surrounded by iron sheets, and the beauty is a little less.
I arrived at Mozhugongka County at about 4:30 in the afternoon. The motorcycle brother removed the rope and continued to the direction of Linzhi, and I rested early in order to better ride the 130 kilometers to Linzhi tomorrow.
Entering Gongbu Jiangda County, the first thing that catches the eye is the "Quanzhou Second Bridge". It seems that this place was built with the help of Quanzhou, and there are even "Quanzhou Road" and the Tibetan version of "Quanzhou Bridge". It is very kind, but I don't know Do you have Quanzhou food? It turns out that I thought too much, and that's all for today's riding sharing.
D4 Gongbu Jiangda-Linzhi
Kilometers today: 130km
Keywords: 11 hours of cycling alone is like vipassana
I had a good night's sleep, woke up at 8:00 and went upstairs to pack my clothes, made a cup of oat milk for breakfast. Knowing that today's journey is very long, I was ready to start early, but I still dawdled until 10 o'clock before the official departure.
Just after leaving the Gongbo River, it was less than ten kilometers away, and the sky in the direction ahead was covered with dark clouds, and the rain in Tibet was visible. Knowing that it was going to rain soon, and seeing a small house on the other side of the river, he decisively crossed the bridge to hide from the rain. The clouds in the sky are moving, but the direction of the wind is the direction I am going, so it seems that I may need to run after the rain. I was sheltering from the rain at what seemed to be an abandoned checkpoint at the entrance of a village, and I thought about taking a ride.
Seeing several pickup trucks in the village drive out to the other side of the river, but they were all in the opposite direction, so I didn't open my mouth and waited quietly to see if the rain would stop. After observing for a long time, I felt that there was no hope, so I put the pannier and camera bag on the rain cover and set off. But soon after more than ten kilometers, the blue sky and white clouds were around again.
From Gongbu Jiangda all the way to Nyingchi, they all walk along the Niyang River. The Niyang River in my impression has always been emerald green, dotted like emeralds on the side of National Highway 318, which is beautiful. The current road is really good. Not only is the road good all the way, but there are basically guardrails. Cycling still feels very safe.
The more you go in the direction of Bayi, the more you feel like Linzhi, it's like shuttling in a natural oxygen bar. The forest nearby, the river beside it, the snow-capped mountains in the distance and the cloudy and cloudy sky are all joyful existences. Today's 130 kilometers have almost no ups and downs, and it is not too strenuous to ride. It is precisely because of this that I can persist.
I didn’t meet anyone who talked to me this day, I just rode my bike alone for 11 hours, which was very similar to the feeling of Vipassana, reviewing myself in the past few years Ah, recalling the pictures of these years, they are all communicating with themselves.
The main reason is that there are no cars along the way, most of them are cars coming from the opposite direction, and most of them have license plates from other places. Everyone should also be rushing to complete the whole journey of 318, but there are very few cars in my direction, and they have already arrived at the holy land of Lhasa. Naturally, the forest scenery along the way is not too rare when I come to Nyingchi. .
From Gongbujiang to Linzhi, Bahe Town, Baiba Town and Gengzhang Township all saw that the inn is available for accommodation, because I wanted to go directly to Linzhi to rest for two days, so I gritted my teeth and really walked 130 kilometers to Linzhi. Aaron left Bingchacha to go to Tibet, and happened to be in Linzhi today. We talked about meeting up in a while, and it happened that he wanted to take the Ali-Northern Line, so he chatted about the route and had dinner on the first floor of the hotel.
At night, I lived in Nyingchi’s Phuntsok Kangsang. I remember that the last time I lived in Nyingchi’s Phuntsang should have been in 2016. It was too long ago. My room is so big that I can carry my bicycle directly into the room. I'm so happy.
Today, when I was changing gears up and downhill, I couldn’t turn the corner for a moment and had to stop and study. I used the pedals of the bicycle to support my strength to change gears. I didn’t think there would be a problem. I happened to be chatting with Aaron and the others, and they all said that work is about screwing, so why not come and help me screw a screw.
I don't know if I don't twist it, I'm startled when I twist it. Thinking that the bicycles are already in the room, I don’t want to unload the pannier bag, because I have to unload the pannier bag because I have to deal with the kickstands, only to find that the connection between the rear frame of the bicycle and the tire, one side is missing the nut, and the other side is directly damaged. broken.
I dare to say that my backpack arrived in Linzhi today. It all depends on the two screws in the front. Fortunately, I found it early. Fortunately, I am in Linzhi now, which is a big city. It is not difficult to buy accessories or something. That's just right, I will take a rest in Linzhi tomorrow, and repair the car by the way, in order to ride better.
D6 Linzhi-Lulang
Kilometers today: 70km
Key words: Riding only when you are stupid, Yunnan-Tibet Line
I specially ate a variety of breakfasts at the hotel, because I knew that the 70 kilometers today would be hard, but I never thought it would be so hard. To sum up, it took 11 and a half hours for 70 kilometers today, 30 kilometers of uphill road, and an altitude rise of nearly 2,000 meters. I wanted to throw the car and I wanted to give up and continue riding. Really, the summary is in place "Only stupid X rides the Yunnan-Tibet line". On the way, I swore secretly that riding in Tibet once in a lifetime is enough.
The guide said that there is no supply along the way to Sejila Mountain, wrong! Not long after I went up the mountain, I came across a Sichuan restaurant, a snack shop, and a sweet tea shop, and bought a bottle of Red Bull to nourish my body. Later, there is still a section of the road where Tibetans are often seen on foot, and the street signs on the roadside will show "pedestrians on foot, please pay attention to traffic." This is probably less than 10 kilometers up the mountain. There is also a small stall on the side of the road. , selling some beverages and snacks, and finally at the Sejila Pass, you can also buy some supplies, and even mutton skewers.
It's okay to walk this way. Although I didn't eat lunch, I brought a small piece of bread to last the day. A Beijing brand off-road vehicle stopped, and it was two girls. The girl with dreadlocks sitting in the co-pilot handed me a bottle of water, and told me that she also rode all the way up, and had just sent her bicycle in Lhasa. go home.
This is probably what cyclists understand. It’s not that they can’t afford a bottle of water, but that the luggage they carry is already heavy enough, and water is a consumable on the road. On today’s 30-kilometer uphill road, there is no In the case of water, a bottle of water from a stranger is so precious.
I pushed and rode, and sometimes it took only 30 minutes to complete a kilometer. From 20 kilometers to 10 kilometers, even if I had no energy at all, it was impossible to ask for help. For this sake, why don't you do it yourself?
Maybe it was because I couldn’t walk anymore, a Prado stopped slowly, and the girl on the co-pilot asked me if the bike could be folded? I can only say, oops, it really doesn’t work, you can’t help me, thank you. Anyway, there are still a lot of good people. Even if you don't send a signal for help, there will always be kind people asking if you need help.
In the last two kilometers, I was thinking that if I reached the Sejila Pass, you ask me if I am excited? I just want to say, "Hey, stupid X.", I've chosen all the roads and I'm done. Otherwise, what should I do, the awesomeness is blown out, and it would be too embarrassing to not finish riding the Yunnan-Tibet Line. (Finally, it proved that the ride was not finished)
After finally arriving at the Sejila Pass, I have never seen Nanga Bawa Peak here anyway, probably because of no fate. I asked a passer-by to take a picture of me with a mobile phone, and the comments in the entire circle of friends were, oops, why is it so dark, it’s so dark that I can’t see it, it’s okay to be black and thin...is there any black riding? It was already eight o'clock in the evening, and I didn't dare to stop any longer. There was still 20 kilometers to go to the town of Lulang, so I rushed down the mountain like a gallop. I accidentally saw the main peak of Namjagbarwa on the road, happy!
The road condition of Sejila Mountain may be due to the fact that there are too many cars walking in it for many years, with potholes and hollows, and the speed of bicycles going downhill is extremely fast. You must pay attention to the road and ride well without looking at the scenery. In short, this downhill road is more scary than Gangbala Mountain in Yanghu Lake. Fortunately, I arrived at the intersection of Lulang Town just after dark. I found a restaurant to have a meal at random, and then slowly looked for accommodation. I know Zhaxigang Village Great, but I really don't have the strength to ride another 2km.
I lived in Lulang for a week two years ago, and now the grasslands are full of flowers. Lulang is really an overlooked beauty on National Highway 318. So tomorrow, I will take a rest in Lulang for a day.
D7 Lulang Rest
Kilometers today: 0km
Keyword: lie flat day
Originally, I stayed in Lulang because I wanted to have a good look at the scenery. I never thought that it was raining all day today, and it was hard to get out. Can only be in the room, watching movies, reading books, sleeping. It may be because of the week I lived in Lulang two years ago, I had a different emotion for Lulang.
I really like this small town that makes people breathe smoothly and is full of green eyes. The homestay I stayed in this time was just built last year. It has a large bathroom, sufficient water pressure, and hot water, which makes people very comfortable.
If you ask me where I must stay for one night on National Highway 318? Then my answer must be Lu Lang, especially Lu Lang in Xia Tian.
The Lulang town at an altitude of 3,700 meters is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and primeval forests, Namai Village, Lulang International Tourism Town, Zhaxigang Village, and alpine pastures. All these points together can be considered Lulang . Lulang is at the foot of Sejila Mountain. Nyingchi’s special warm and semi-humid plateau climate makes Lulang often misty, rainy and cloudy in summer. The flowers on the grassland are competing to bloom, and there are wooden fences and mountain cattle and sheep everywhere. The pastoral scenery of Lulang is really beautiful.
On the meadow and in the forest, there are traces of rainwashing. The whole feeling is extraordinarily green and green. When you take a deep breath, there is enough oxygen. The air smells fresh and fragrant, which is really different from other places in Tibet.
The dry goods you want are here
When I set off, it was about 40 pounds of panniers, a front bag, and a small bag for snacks in the back seat. Cycling on the plateau is a little tiring when walking, and of course it will be even more tiring when riding with a load, so the most important thing before departure is to reduce the luggage.
My luggage list:
1. Clothes: 2 sets of cycling suits (one set is worn on the body and the other is placed in the pannier bag), 1 set of light sports suit (need to be equipped with cycling underwear), 1 piece of light down jacket, 1 piece of polar fleece, 2 windproof and rainproof jackets, 3 pairs of socks, and 2 pieces of underwear.
2. Washing bag: toothpaste toothbrush, shower gel shampoo, skin care products, try to use separate bottles.
3. Charging packs: drone chargers, camera chargers, GoPro chargers, computer chargers and data cables, etc.
4. What to wear when riding: front and rear warning lights (required for entering tunnels or at night), headlights (to avoid dark night riding), tire repair tools including screwdrivers, pliers, a spare tire, and 3 large plastic bags (to prevent If it rains too much, one more layer of protection), a pannier bag with a rain cover, a set of raincoats, separate packs of detergent and chain oil, riding gloves, and a riding helmet
5. Things in the front bag: a camera, a drone, GoPro, power bank, lip balm, etc.
Basically, the above are the things that need to be used to form the whole long-distance riding. There are some riding skills, such as stepping on for a while, and after the speed is raised, you can leave the buttocks from the seat to let it rest for a while time. For example, use the toes to step on the pedals, not the entire sole of the foot. For example, when getting on and off the car, remember to leave the car seat before stepping on the ground.
There are many big cars on the national road, and they may beep you with loud horns, stick to the direction you are riding, and don’t be afraid to hide on the far side of the road, that’s even worse.
Try not to enter the grass, and if you insist on going in, you must remember to check before starting when you get out. There will be small thorns in the grass, and if you don’t pay attention, the tire will blow out, which is even more troublesome.
