foreword

What impresses me the most about Tibet is not the strange and fascinating concepts in geography books, but the prayer wheel. I once read a story, and the plot of the story is probably lost, but there is a plot about the prayer wheel that has been deeply in my mind for ten years. It is said that many years ago, when an old woman in Tibet was dying, she had a strong belief in her heart that she would drag her sick body and let her husband accompany her on a pilgrimage to the Potala Palace. When there was still a long distance away from the Potala Palace, the woman with firm eyes resolutely got out of the car. She braced her sick body and kowtowed in three steps. She kept turning the prayer wheel in her hand. Even though she was about to faint, she never stopped turning the prayer wheel and prostrating. Even after she could no longer sit on the couch, and her body gradually became thinner and shrunken, she still supported her for a while before continuing to walk, and prostrated herself to bow down. Later, she couldn't bear it any longer, and her body gradually shrank, until it was as big as a child, and then it was as big as holding a prayer wheel in her hand. She curled up in the large clothes, like a weak ant curled up in a ruin, and finally, her whole body disappeared. What's even more miraculous is that all his belongings are there, except the prayer wheel, which he never left his hand, disappeared along with her. The story has a bit of fantasy color, I think this is also the highest state of worshiping Buddha! It was also this somewhat fantasy story I read many years ago that gave me a feeling of yearning and reverence for Tibet. Some time ago, there was also a news report that when a woman crossed the road, she also kowtowed a few steps. Although she hindered the traffic, no one urged her, and even the traffic police were by her side. When the green light came on, the vehicles behind the crosswalk did not continue to move forward, nor did they honk their horns. They all quietly waited for the old woman to cross the road with prostrations. What kind of belief is this! Even if the old woman leaves Tibet, she can stick to her faith in the busy city and worship sincerely regardless of the eyes of others. Most modern people are in a hurry, busy with work, busy with family chores, and even busy with seeking happiness. They also arrange the only leisure time to the full, and fulfill these plans with purpose and plan. In fact, if you think about it carefully, finding a suitable place to be alone quietly is not a kind of enjoyment. Why is it not comfortable to sit quietly in a holy place? You can go wherever you want, so why not be happy? Packing up our bags, with reverence for Tibet, we decided to take a self-driving tour of Tibet, to get rid of the obsession with Tibet in our hearts, and to see how old Tibetans turn their prayer wheels.



Look at Meitu in advance



The itinerary before going to Sap God Mountain

Nagqu - For example, when we came to Tibet for the first time, we came to the ultimate secret place in Tibet, Sapu Mountain. The peaks that have been standing here for thousands of years are still pure and holy, majestic and inviolable. Its main peak is as high as 6556 meters. Sap Holy Mountain is also called Sap Glacier, which is located in Nagqu City. So if you want to go to Sapu Mountain, you must first arrive at Nagqu City! Nagqu City is located in the Tanggula Mountains, Nyainqentanglha Mountains and Gangdise Mountains. It is connected to Changdu City in the east, Ali District in the west, Lhasa City and Nyingchi City in the south, and Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region and Qinghai Province in the north. Divided by many lake basins, the lakes are dotted all over. The average altitude is above 4500 meters. Alpine hypoxia, dry climate.

We took a train from Changsha to Xi'an to Lhasa and then took a train for about 5 hours before arriving in Nagqu. It was already night when we arrived in Nagqu. When we got off the train, we were greeted by pouring rain and hail. The altitude of the urban area of ​​Nagqu is 4500 meters, and this is the first time we have stayed at an altitude of 4500 meters. Fortunately, there was no uncomfortable phenomenon that night, but I was always in a daze at night, tossing and turning, and couldn't sleep! I knew that this was my rebellion, but the one sleeping beside me was safe and sound asleep! In addition to not being able to sleep, the most terrible thing is dryness. Although I brought a humidifier from home, I am still thirsty and my mouth is cracked.

It may only be more than 400 kilometers from Nagqu to Sap Sacred Mountain, but it must not be possible to drive in one day, because the road conditions in the second half of the road from the road to Sap Sacred Mountain are extremely poor, and it takes four or five hours to go from the past to Sap Sacred Mountain. Even if we set off early that day, it will be night when we get there, and we may have to drive at night, which is extremely unsafe. The journey is tiring, and there is no hotel in Sap Shenshan, so we can only live in the herdsmen's house. So our itinerary is to go from Nagqu City to Ruru County on the first day, live in Ruru County, and then from Ruru County to Sap Shenshan via Yangxiu Township on the second day.

Compared with Nagqu City, for example, the altitude of the county is much lower. The altitude here is only 3900 meters. Before entering the county, you can see a lot of trees, which shows that the oxygen here is relatively sufficient. For example, we stayed in the county for 2 nights, which is also the lowest and most comfortable place to live in the past few days.

For example - Sap Sacred Mountain From Ruru County to Sap Sacred Mountain, we have to cross the pass of Xiala Mountain. The pass of Xiala Mountain is 5072 meters above sea level. This is also the first 5000 meters in my life and Yiduo. Every breath, every gaze, every meditation is our most direct connection with nature.

When looking up from the bottom of the mountain, it was still foggy, and I couldn’t see anything. I drove up the Panshan Highway, breaking through layers of fog and clouds along the way, and finally the clouds cleared and the sky was dark blue. Pure, as if it has entered another world.

Standing on the viewing platform next to the Panshan Highway, you can see the mountain peaks opposite the Panshan Highway. The clouds flow quickly, covering the mountain peaks with a mysterious veil for a while, and then the clouds clear and fog away.

Xiala Mountain Pass

Because the navigation cannot directly navigate to the Sapu Mountain, we can only navigate to Yangxiu Village first, and continue along the road after arriving at Yangxiu Village. Finally, we can see such a road sign. From here it is a dirt road. , the first half of the dirt road is easy to walk, ordinary cars are fine, but in the second half without an SUV, it is impossible to reach the sacred mountain of Sap. There are various big and small pits, and the car will wade several times, so prepare to come Friends of Sap Shenshan must drive an SUV.



The ultimate secret place in Tibet - Sapu Mountain

Although we left very early in the morning, we arrived here after 1pm. There are no shops or restaurants here, so you must bring your own lunch. Due to inconvenient transportation, Sapu Mountain is not the best choice for many people to travel, and it is not widely known. Because of this, the man-made damage to Sapu Mountain has been minimal, and because of this, it has not been infiltrated by commercial atmosphere, and can maintain its most authentic appearance. Visitors here can also concentrate on watching its majesty and magnificence, purity and Holy and nothing else.

The Sapp God Mountain is composed of the Sap Mountains, whose members include Sap's wife, Sap's children, and the illegitimate children of Sap's wife after she cheated. In fact, just looking at these members, we can also infer that there is an intricate love story behind it.

Indeed, the Sapu peaks are also related to a myth. Sapu is the highest peak, and naturally it is also the king of the sacred mountains, but the mountains are majestic but not handsome. The Xuemo Peak, which has a beautiful mountain shape, is Sapp’s wife, and the nearby mountains are their children. The pyramid-shaped mountain in the distance is Sapp’s wife and another mountain. The illegitimate son of Shenshan Guobu Shenshan. The pyramid-shaped mountain represented by this illegitimate child has a lot of origins. It is a regular triangular pyramid-shaped mountain that is rare in China and even in the world. Since this mountain is also pyramid-shaped, it is naturally similar to the Egyptian pyramids. The difference is that the pyramids in Egypt are a miracle built by a lot of manpower and material resources, but this pyramid-shaped mountain in the Sapp Mountains is a miracle of nature. The majesty and magnificence of both can bring people great shock. Legend has it that Sapu Mountain even took revenge on Guobu Mountain. Why did Sapp's wife cruelly abandon Sapp and the children to cheat on another person? Why did the illegitimate child brought along after derailment appear in the Sapu peaks? These myths and mysteries undoubtedly add mystery to Sap Shenshan.

We arrived at the Sapp Mountains just in time for the end of summer. Every summer, Sapu Mountain presents a different attitude: the top of the mountain is covered with ice and snow, surrounded by clouds and mists, and it is solemn and holy as far as the eye can see. On the other hand, the bottom of the mountain is full of water, fertilizer and grass, and various colors compete with each other, showing vitality, forming a contrast with the top of the mountain, but making people feel natural and harmonious.

The holy lake at the foot of the mountain is formed by the melting ice and snow of the holy mountain. Among them, the glacial lake that does not melt all year round is called Samuco, and the other part of the crystal clear lake is an important place for local religious activities. It is said that the main lake will thaw overnight on May 15th every year, and freeze overnight on September 15th every year. This is so wonderful that people have to sigh the greatness of the creator.

Plunging into the embrace of nature, in the blue sky and clear water, open your arms, close your eyes and take a few mouthfuls of fresh air, you will feel clear-headed, and the recent negative emotions have been released unconsciously, listening quietly It is not an exaggeration to say that the slight sound of the lake water can purify the soul.

The vision becomes wider, the mind also becomes wider, and any complicated and trivial matters are not worth mentioning at this moment. The clouds here are very light, mixed between the water and the sky, and the water and the sky are the same color, and the clouds seem to be not in the sky, but around us. The clear lake with white clouds is sometimes rippling by the breeze, and sometimes silently contemplating. There are pieces of ice and snow floating on the lake, large or small, which adds a bit of tranquility and comfort to the lake. Walking by the lake, I suddenly saw a small waterfall pouring out between the two mountains. It is also the holy water from the melting ice and snow of the sacred mountain.

This is indeed a resort of ice and snow. Looking at the snow-covered sacred mountain from a distance, coupled with the clouds wandering freely, every scene that comes into view is a large piece. The sky and the lake are connected, and the mountains and lakes are connected. The pictures that catch the eye are rich and extraordinary, but they don't make people feel crowded, but they feel broad and majestic. This place is holy, so holy that it seems like you are in a fairyland, and your imagination is unstoppable. Will there be a goddess in a white dress and a crown appearing from behind the mountain in the next moment?

The scenery up and down the mountain is different. Although there are no fresh green plants on the flat place at the bottom of the mountain, it is wide and deep enough to present a different kind of scenery that we don't often see in low latitude areas. Driving on the winding road, rolling down the windows, moving quickly or slowly, without any purpose, you can enjoy wherever you go. Let the fresh wind blow on your cheeks, let some scenery flash by.

Fortunately, we met some Tibetans at the foot of the mountain, and we temporarily rested in their residence at the foot of the mountain, which is the most authentic and simple building. The mountains and rivers here have raised such a group of simple Tibetan children. The years have left marks on their faces, but they don't care.

They still wear their national costumes and work as usual. The traces of the years have added a bit of calmness to them. They showed the greatest sincerity and enthusiasm to us, so we tasted the authentic food in Tibetan areas, ate big pieces of meat and drank wine, warmed our bodies and minds, and brought us closer to each other.

At first, because I had great respect for the prayer wheel, I didn't dare to touch it. I only dared to quietly watch the Tibetans calmly and piously swaying the prayer wheel. The old Tibetan mother seemed to understand my inner thoughts, so she encouraged me to turn the prayer wheel. She first introduced to me the origin, purpose and usage of the prayer wheel, then gently put the prayer wheel in my hand, and said to me only four words, "Sincerity leads to spirit". In fact, many Tibetans cannot recite scriptures fluently, so they use rotating prayer wheels instead of chanting. Praying for blessings is not about the method, but the sincerity in the heart.



For example - broken thoughts in front of the Holy Elephant Heavenly Gate

It is very far from Ruru County to Shengxiang Tianmen. Tourists who go to Shengxiang Tianmen usually stay in the county town of Bangor County on the first night, and go to Shengxiang Tianmen from Bangor County the next day.


On the way, you will pass a place called Damu Temple. In the 15th year of Zhenguan, Emperor Taizong of Tang Dynasty married Princess Wencheng to Zamp Songtsen Gampo of Tubo at that time. Princess Wencheng and her party set off from Chang'an, passed by Xining, and then passed by here to see the aura of Fengshui, so they built this temple here, named Dam Temple, which has a history of 1313 years. Later, Dapu VIII Baima Baizha Living Buddha set up a celestial burial platform here as if his ancestors cut meat and fed it to eagles, and took care of the celestial burial masters, fed the corpses to eagles, and preserved the skulls, so that every living person will think of them when they see them. One's own destination, and later generations piled up the skeletons into a wall. Unfortunately the time we were there, Dams was under renovation and not open. For example, it is about 500 kilometers from Bangor County to Bangor County. The road is asphalt road all the way, and it is easy to walk without encountering landslides and mudslides. The same day was basically spent in the car, and it was already night when we arrived in Bangor County. On the road to Bangor County, there are many measures, which are called "one measure after another", and "cuo" means lake in Tibetan.



The end of the beauty of Tibet - the Holy Elephant Tianmen

Appreciating the scenery along the way and experiencing the local customs and culture, we came to the Holy Elephant Tianmen—a little-known beautiful holy place. It's a place so little known that maybe even the locals don't know about it. Many years ago, due to the long distance and the barrenness of the surrounding area, the road to the Holy Elephant Heavenly Gate was not easy. According to legend, only those who are extremely devout can come here to worship. Now, we are fortunate to be in this secret place.


The Holy Elephant Tianmen on the map is located on Tashi Island on the south coast of Nam Co, but in fact it is located on the north coast of Nam Co. Strictly speaking, the Holy Elephant Gate does not belong to the Namtso Scenic Area, but it is inextricably linked with Namtso. This originates from an ancient legend. After pulling, he betrothed Namtso to Nianchen Tangla, and the two became husband and wife. A grand wedding ceremony was held on Chadrangka Island. The night before the wedding, 108 magical powers built the stone gate. This stone gate looks like a holy elephant going from northeast to southwest. The nose of the holy elephant goes into the lake, as if drinking water from the lake. There is an arch in the belly of the holy elephant. There is a cave outside the arch, like a fairyland. The sacred elephant stands by the lake, as if it is the patron saint here, so people call it the holy elephant Tianmen.

If the Sapu Mountain is majestic and majestic, then the Sacred Elephant Tianmen is gentle and beautiful. Looking at the beautiful and atmospheric mountains and rivers around, I not only wondered whether the goddess of Namtso was as gentle and atmospheric as the scene. The scenery of the Holy Elephant Tianmen can be said to be extremely beautiful, and the sky and lake are all in one color, as if they were pure and untainted by a trace of dust.

There are tall mountains between the water and the sky. Standing on the shore, you can see the close-up view of the shore, and the sacred image Tianmen with a sense of history is right in front of you. Passing through the Holy Elephant Heavenly Gate, the line of sight suddenly opened up, and the scenery in front of me became clear. The high cliff on the north bank of Namtso is an excellent viewing point to appreciate the scenery here. Standing on the high cliff, with the wind on the lake flowing past with moisture, you will feel like you are floating in the fairyland. Looking around, the blue lake water and the blue sky merge into one, wide and vast, as if seeing the sea.

Many people think that the best place to watch the sunrise should be a high mountain, so many people trek to the top of the mountain the night before or in the early morning, eat and sleep in the open, just to see the magnificent and beautiful sunrise. In fact, watching the sunrise at the Holy Elephant Tianmen will give people a novel and unique experience. The Sacred Elephant Tianmen is located at a high altitude, and the lake is vast. Standing on a high cliff to watch the sun rise, or standing on the shore to watch the sun gradually rise above the lake, the scenery is strange and magnificent. At night, the starry sky is definitely not to be missed. The environmental pollution here is minimal, so the stars in the night sky are extraordinarily bright and numerous.

For thousands of years, countless people who want to cultivate immortals have traveled thousands of miles to come here. It is also a kind of fun for them to practice in the face of such beautiful scenery! Looking at it now, what is the difference between the scenery here and the fairyland? Faced with such a scene, it is most comfortable to drink some wine. We set up a small table, put some snacks, and simply drank wine in front of this beautiful scenery. Perhaps thousands of years ago, those who came here to ask for immortality People have had a drink like this.

If you want to hold a grand and perfect wedding, Holy Elephant Tianmen is a good choice. Three or five friends, Qingfeng as a matchmaker, and the blessing of Goddess Namtso, how can a couple not get holy love. We met a new couple here, taking their beloved pet dog to take wedding photos that belonged only to them, and Yiduo borrowed their pet dog and started taking pictures too!



epilogue

Different from previous trips, this Tibet self-driving tour did not spend a lot of energy on eating and drinking, nor did it pay attention to clean and comfortable accommodation environment. Instead, it received the most simple and warm reception from the Tibetan people. The time together is happy and comfortable, I just hate that time can't stay too long. The most important thing is that I no longer think that the prayer wheel is high above and rejects people thousands of miles away, but that it is close to the people and can bring well-being to the people in Tibetan areas. We really felt the changes in the scenery along the road, and also experienced the charm of local customs and culture. Different from the hustle and bustle of the city, Sapu Mountain and the Sacred Elephant Tianmen are quiet, holy and free of dust. This trip is actually a trip to purify the soul. The body needs to be replenished with energy, and the mind must also be recharged in a timely manner. Only when the burden in the heart is unloaded can we better devote ourselves to future life.