[Travel to avoid the epidemic: Shanghai-Guizhou deep self-driving D5]
Summary of prerequisites:
At the beginning of August, in order to avoid the spread of the epidemic in Pudong, Shanghai to Puxi, and to live up to the Guizhou government’s policy of exempting residents from eight provinces and cities, our family took an instant trip for safety. After going through the itinerary of Shanghai-Fuzhou-Tang'an-Rongjiang-Libo, I arrived in Libo on the fourth night and lived in the ancient village of Yaoshan not far from Xiaoqikong Scenic Area.
Many people know Libo Xiaoqikong, but they don’t know Yaoshan Ancient Village. It’s a pity! Xiaoqikong is a masterpiece gifted by nature, while Yaoshan ancient village is a treasure of national cultural relics. This is the place where the Yao people live. Due to the remoteness, many ancient ways of living have been left to this day. It is known as "the living fossil of primitive society", and Baiku Yao is also called "Oriental Indians" by anthropologists It is recognized by UNESCO as a nation with the most complete preservation of national culture.
The local Yao people also call it Liangpian Yao, or Baiku Yao. The reason is that women's tops only have two pieces of cloth covering the body, and the underarms and sides are hollowed out, while men wear white trousers. The costumes of Liangpianyao are not so much sexy as they were brought about by the poverty in the past. Coupled with the relatively hot climate in the area, clothes that save fabrics and are simple to make were born.
Yaoshan Guzhai Scenic Spot is a cultural landscape under the guidance of the government. It aims to restore the traditional villages of the Yao people and promote the folk culture of the Yao people. It promotes poverty alleviation through cultural tourism. It was rated as a 4A-level scenic spot in 2020. As far as I can see, the reputation of Guzhai has spread among in-depth travel enthusiasts in recent years. The traditional villages here are well preserved, the folk activities are well displayed, the tourism supporting facilities are complete, and the commercial consumption forms are rich but different. It can be called a masterpiece of cultural tourism + poverty alleviation in Guizhou Province.
Yaoshan Ancient Village is only 5 kilometers away from the east gate of Xiaoqikong Scenic Area.
Since it was already 8:30 p.m. when I arrived in Yaoshan yesterday, I happened to watch the end of the folklore show and gala in the central square. I regret it! The children all pouted. If they hadn't waited for the nucleic acid report, they wouldn't have missed such a fun content. They would have to wait until the next time they come to enjoy it.
The next morning we woke up just after dawn, and we were woken up by the crowing of chickens. The morning in the countryside is so peaceful that the sound of roosters crowing is particularly crisp. I went out for a stroll first, and there are lush greenery everywhere, exuding a natural and original taste. The core village of the scenic spot is called Lapian Village.
The village experienced by tourists is an old village, and some local people still live in the original old houses, but the old houses have also been repaired. Most of the villagers have been resettled by the government to a hillside not far away, which is the new village. It looks good. It has both traditional building structure and upgraded brick-concrete wall, which is safer for fire prevention. And it is patchwork, with vegetation inlaid in it, unlike some places where farmers' resettlement houses are neatly planned and there are no plants, and there is no rural ecology at all.
The whole scenic spot is not closed. A county-level road runs through it, and it leads directly to the village called Dong Meng. I have been there before, and I have seen their monkey drum performances during festivals. It is very mysterious hidden deep in the mountains. It is also a part of this scenic spot, but it is a little far away, and you need to drive there or take the scenic spot's own shuttle bus. Continue to drive to the territory of Guangxi.
Speaking of Lapian Village, although the original old houses are still maintained, the roads, roadside fences, and green plants have been beautified, making it feel like a resort, but it is very original and very fresh. It is a primitive village where tourists are willing to live and play without any burden. Villagers in traditional casual clothes can be seen everywhere working, not deliberately for tourists. This is their life, and you are part of it.
Traditional Yao dwellings also have this kind of multi-layer dry railing structure, which is similar to Miao stilted houses, with corridors and railings on the second floor. It's just that the railings of the Miao people's houses also have benches for sitting on, which are called beauty leanings. The railings are designed in an ergonomic S-shape, which is more particular. Another difference is that the stairs leading to the second floor of the Yao people's houses are built directly in front of the outdoor main entrance, while those of the Miao people are inside the first floor of the building. Therefore, generally speaking, the Yao people's houses tend to be simpler, which may be due to their relatively economic conditions. caused by lagging behind.
The first floor of the dwellings of ethnic minorities in the south used to be uninhabited. It was a place to raise livestock and store sundries. Because of the humid climate, it was not suitable for living. But now the government guides the livestock breeding to be moved out of the residence and raised in a unified manner. Therefore, the ground floor of many people's homes is closed with brick walls, and the ground is treated with moisture-proof treatment to make it into a small shop or catering business place. Overall, it's quite coordinated and not obtrusive.
There are not only Yao villages in the scenic area, but also many traditional administrative buildings, restoring the entire social organization relationship. The core is the Yaowang Mansion, which is equivalent to the former Yamen. The building is circular, all built of stones, and has a two-story structure inside. The bottom floor is used to resolve disputes and punish crimes, while the second floor is where the elders discuss their affairs.
With the Yaowang Mansion as the center, it is surrounded by folk customs display and experience areas, including the Yaowang Banquet, Yaochi Bath and Fair Market, etc. You can also understand it as a commercial center! However, this kind of business form is not offensive, because it is built based on the local characteristic cultural experience. After a unified plan, there is not much homogeneity, so the richer it is, the more you can play. Moreover, the related buildings are also designed to be antique, trying to restore the original style, not out of touch with the whole village. Look at the smell of public toilets.
I am not disgusted with this kind of building based on traditional architectural structure combined with modern technology improvement, on the contrary, I appreciate it very much. I believe many people think so, after all, the times are advancing. Is it possible to let modern people sit on the old toilet again?
Going a little further, I saw a golden amber garden. Some tropical succulents such as golden amber and prickly pears were irregularly planted in the field, which was a bit like a small botanical garden. Many local farmers are working in the fields, which is unique.
Going to see a very stylish building, there is a device like bamboo weaving in front of the door, it feels like a characteristic homestay. Taking a closer look, the device is made of iron sheets, imitating the effect of bamboo weaving. Inside is a bamboo weaving intangible cultural heritage experience hall.
Talking with the owner again, it turns out that we still know each other, and we have done some discussions on cultural tourism in WeChat, but we have never met before, so we did not expect to meet here. Her brand is called Xiaoyou Bamboo Art, and the craftsmanship displayed is quite rich. Welcome everyone to experience it.
When I came out and turned a corner, I saw a special cultural and creative store called Yaoyao, which, as the name suggests, makes pottery. Yao people have a long history of making pottery, and every household can make pottery, but traditionally it is mainly for personal use, and there is not much attention to artistic decoration. The ones that are a little more particular are mainly used in public buildings such as palaces. Therefore, in order to inherit, innovation is inevitable. This store looks a bit tasteful.
There are a bunch of small pottery on display at the door, there are many bowls, vases, plates, and ashtrays, and the price is not expensive. You pay consciously, which is quite Buddhist. The product style tends to be rough, simple and eclectic, with many effects of kiln transformation.
Going in and taking a look, there are more displays inside, larger volumes, and richer shapes, so there are many choices.
The master sitting inside seemed familiar to me, but I couldn't remember it for a while, so I exchanged a few casual greetings. I didn't remember until I saw a sign with Zhang Baoguo's name on it when I went out. I should have been in Qiannan before. I have seen it at the activities of the State Cultural Industry Association, and there is also a studio in Duyun Maojian Town, and my students have also experienced it.
And there is also a large experience workshop here, which can accommodate 20 people to work together. It will definitely be interesting to bring students here in my intangible cultural heritage experience class next time, but I guess it will have to wait until the epidemic prevention work is opened up.
After leaving the intangible cultural heritage experience area, it is the farming style area. The most spectacular one is the Hecang Group. Numerous grain barns are neatly arranged together, which is magnificent. There are two types of granaries, one is round and the other is square. The lower part is hollowed out to prevent rats and moisture.
In Miao and Dong areas, there is also such a habit. The grain in a village is piled together and managed in a unified manner. I don't know why, if there is a fire, wouldn't the whole village be afraid of famine?
There is a big mill in the middle of the Hecang group. I guess it is for the convenience of processing? In addition, the bottom of the granary is high enough to allow ventilation without drying out, and it has also become a treasured place for Yao women to do small chores together.
In fact, local women can be seen doing handicrafts outdoors everywhere in the village, so why not when we were young? Except for eating and sleeping at home, the rest of the time is spent running in the yard, on the ridges of the fields, and by the small river. What an alluring and rich place is the outdoors? This kind of life can't help but be fascinating.
Even the animals live here so comfortably.
Walking to the farthest corner of the scenic spot, I found a large-scale building. I can’t remember what it was called now. It should be a building like Yao Wang’s mansion. The high steps are extremely majestic.
Not far away, there is also a sacred cow pond, which is used for the ritual of letting the cows bathe and cleanse themselves before slaughtering and offering sacrifices. It is called "Niu Gundang" in Yao language. Thinking that there are restaurants called this name outside, it should be a beef special restaurant! It's just that I don't like to kill, and I can't help but feel pity when I see this pool.
Going out of the village and returning to the main road is the hub of the scenic spot, the sightseeing bus transfer center.
On the edge of this transfer center is the former ancient ruins. Looking at the ruins piled up with rubble, you can feel the vicissitudes of life. Fortunately, the new village not far away has given us vitality, and this comparison can also be called a classic.
There is a suspension bridge connecting the ancient ruins and the main road, which is now a check-in point for Internet celebrities. Below the suspension bridge is a ditch, which is probably the former moat.
Because the car is parked at the entrance of the scenic spot, you still have to walk back from the transfer center through the polder market when you return. The polder market is a commercial place that provides catering, supermarkets, etc. There is a long but natural stream at the entrance.
In summer, local children and tourists' children like to swim in this creek, because the water is shallow and there is no safety problem. The local children may be natural, boys and girls are all naked, playing freely without any scruples.
After playing for a whole morning, it’s time for us to leave for the next stop, Xiaoqikong, Libo. Finally, we’ll have a look at the extraterrestrial life of the local people. The exquisite birdcage in this hometown is a representative, which is a favorite of Yao men. Showing their past noble background.
By the way, I still want to introduce the accommodation in Yaoshan. There is a sketching base of the Yao tribe in Yaoshan, which is well-known in the art circle, and there is an endless stream of teachers and students from art schools who come here to collect folk songs or sketch from life. The sketching base provides a full range of services for food, housing and transportation, so they operate two accommodation properties themselves. One is the student dormitory located on the upper floor of the sketching base building, which provides bunk beds and the price is very cheap. The other is a characteristic B&B for the public. There are several houses next to the Yaowang Mansion in Lapian Village, which provide room service of different specifications, such as standard rooms, single rooms, and parent-child rooms. The price is a little expensive but worth the money.
The gate of the courtyard of the hotel where the room management is located
Another courtyard named the three primary colors
Yaoshan Farmhouse is not a single house, but several buildings, which are not completely connected. It may be due to the reason that they are rented separately from farmers. They are a bit scattered, but it doesn’t matter, because the design ideas of each house are different. Secondly, the appearance is just a proper artistic transformation, such as increasing the planting of ornamental flowers, building an artistic partition wall with bricks and tiles, painting some decorations on the stone, etc., which are generally integrated with the surrounding houses. It is not against the peace.
The gate of our courtyard
Water fixtures in the yard
The arrangement of the door of the room
Hallway of second floor room
The interior is also comprehensively renovated on the basis of the original building, some steel structures are added, stone steps are laid, and some landscapes are arranged. It looks both stylish and complements the natural environment. Of course, from a professional point of view, the use of materials is a little messy, and it feels a little experimental. The only thing I feel uncomfortable about is the use of this artificial thatch, which is obviously a bit fake, adding some disharmonious factors to a pure natural environment.
There are no photos in the guest room, there should be some on the Internet. White walls and wooden roof, the more distinctive feature is the projection TV, but it is not loud, the focus is always blurred, more fun than practical. There is a large Yao bath pool inside, and it is also equipped with a plastic bucket cover. But I don't like it. It's not natural to sit in a plastic bag and take a bath.
One of my favorite places to sit is the atrium of the B&B reception. The rattan bamboo chairs, natural-shaped wooden columns and straw woven ceiling are very tasteful.
Seeing that the whole yard is full of green plants, big and small, with brilliant flowers, I feel very happy.
Behind is the reception desk, which is also very natural and friendly, less commercial and more warm and playful. I haven't checked other accommodation institutions in the scenic area, but this one should be considered good.
This afternoon is the itinerary for Xiaoqikong, but this article is already long enough. About the introduction and beautiful pictures of Xiaoqikong in Libo, let’s see the breakdown in the next chapter, so stay tuned.
