February 28, 2019, the first day. Set off!
Spring is all right.
I have been planning to go to Houma and Hancheng at the junction of Shanxi and Shanxi to worship the national security, Sima Qian’s Tomb and Dangjia Village in Hancheng, Houtu Temple in Wanrong, Jin State Museum near Houma, and the recent hot topic Guangsheng Temple in Hongdong . The traffic of the Wanrong Houtu Temple is not smooth, and the time is limited, so give up. Add Jiexiu Zongshen Tower along the way. Discuss the itinerary with friends, book tickets online, and leave as soon as you say. 23:55 night shift sleeper. Passengers at the station are moderately tight. It's been a long time since I took a sleeper train. I fell asleep and had nothing to say all night.
I have been procrastinating since I came back, and the notes have not been clarified until now.
March 1, 2019, the next day. Beijing – Jiexiu – Hongdong
10 am to Jiexiu.
Jiexiu belongs to Jinzhong City. It is named after Jie Zitui, who "cuts shares to serve the king" in the Spring and Autumn Period, and is famous for the Cold Food Festival. The surrounding tourism resources are rich, and Pingyao, Mianshan, Wang Family Courtyard, and Zhangbi Ancient Castle are not far away. The taxi driver in front of the station reported these place names in Shanxi Mandarin, hoping to attract customers. According to the agreed plan, jump on the "three jumpers" and go straight to the Jiexiu Museum 3 kilometers away.
There are three main attractions in Jiexiu Museum, Jiexiu Humanities History, Jiexiu Glass Art Exhibition and Jiexiu Kiln. Among them, the most interesting is the glass components replaced from the ancient buildings displayed in the museum. Glass is a kind of ceramic. The green-glazed pottery of the Han Dynasty, the three-color pottery of the Tang Dynasty, and the colored glaze mainly used in architecture and decorative enamel vases all belong to the same system, but they have different names due to different uses and times of appearance. Shanxi is the main producing area of colored glaze in China, and the art of colored glaze has a long history and tradition. Historically, colored glaze was mostly used in palaces, mausoleums, monasteries, temples, pagodas and other buildings, making this kind of products have a unique quality. It is said that there are colored glazes of Jiexiu in the Forbidden City and the Ming Tomb. The 4-meter-high and 4-ton Yuan Dynasty glass owl kiss displayed in the provincial museum comes from Jiexiu.
Picture 1: The glass of Jiexiu Museum and Shuncheng Street in Jiexiu Ancient City (the Zoroastrian Tower in the distance)
Going westward for more than 100 meters from the Jiexiu Museum is the first focus of this trip, the Zoroastrian Tower (National 4). (Nian Xian, Nian Xuan locally).
The reputation of the Zoroastrian Tower comes from two points. One is the only existing "Zoroastrian" building in China. The second is that the whole building was raised during the overhaul in the 1980s, creating the first case of ancient building restoration in China. The scientific name of Zoroastrianism is Zoroastrianism, also known as Zoroastrianism. It originated in the sixth century BC and was popular in ancient Persia. It was destroyed by Muslims in the seventh century. It was introduced to the Central Plains around the sixth century, reached its peak in the Tang Dynasty, and there were many believers. It is said that the rebellious An Lushan and Shi Siming were both believers. After the Song Dynasty, it gradually disappeared. The Mingjiao mentioned in Jin Yong's martial arts novels that people read today originated from Zoroastrianism. But the only remaining Zoroastrian building in China that was built in the Northern Song Dynasty, except for its peculiar appearance, it is difficult to connect it with the ancient Persian religion thousands of years ago, and there is no conclusive evidence of Zoroastrianism. evidence. Perhaps, the reconstruction after the fire during the Kangxi period had already transformed the ancient Persian teachings into the invisible of Chinese culture, and the Zoroastrian Tower has also become the music building of the Sanyi Temple. In the chaotic years that followed, the Zoroastrian Tower became almost a pile of waste wood. First, Yan Xishan’s army used the Zoroastrian Tower as a gun tower, and then converted it into a warehouse. What’s even more bizarre is that in 1972, it was hit by a gun truck and broke the load-bearing column, which almost collapsed. . After years of struggle and repetition, the overhaul was finally completed in 1987, and the building was raised by 2 meters at one time. This is how we see the Zoroastrian Tower we see today. Thirty years after the overhaul, the Sanyi Temple where the Zoroastrian Tower is located closed its doors to thank visitors, and it seems that it will be overhauled again.
Figure 2: New and old Zoroastrian buildings
Exit the Zoroastrian Tower and walk 500 meters along the pedestrian street, which is the Jiexiu Town God's Temple (National 7), which was rebuilt in recent years. The main hall built in the Ming Dynasty is not allowed to enter, and the murals on the outer wall are still recognizable.
Town God's Temple is more than 200 meters along the East Street towards the Earth Temple. Ancient buildings can be seen on the right hand side of the road, which are now used as a market. After entering the hospital, I learned that it was Guandi Temple, which is called Laoye Temple locally. The main hall is still not allowed to enter, and was told that it belongs to the backyard unit. Bypassing the backyard, you can see the Provincial Protection Monument, and there are still the remains of the Spring and Autumn Building in the courtyard. The main hall is empty, with no statues or murals. (There seem to be two Guandi temples in Jiexiu City, so I don't have time to study them).
Figure 3: Jiexiu Town God's Temple, Town God's Temple Murals, Guandi Temple Hall
The last stop, Jiexiu Houtu Temple (State 5), is a place to worship the gods of the land. The ancients respected the earth as their mother, and there is a saying that the emperor is the queen of the earth. The current Jiexiu Houtu Temple is built in the Zhengde period of the Ming Dynasty. In recent years, many places have been repaired and rebuilt. The highlights are glazed and painted sculptures.
Figure 4. Jiexiu Houtu Temple
The city of Jiexiu is very small, and several ancient buildings are not far from each other. It is enough to walk for three to four hours to see them all. After lunch, head to the high-speed rail station and head to the next stop, Hongdong.
Digression. Lunch is settled at a roadside shop not far from Jiexiu Station, and the bill is paid by WeChat. Then I used Didi to call a car and went to the high-speed rail station. On the way, I used 12306 to buy a ticket and paid by WeChat. The bus from Hongdong High-speed Railway Station to the hotel can also be paid by WeChat. No cash required throughout.
Hongdong is famous for Su San and Dahuaishu. I have been here more than ten years ago, and I have visited many scenic spots in the city. My friend came here for the first time and accompanied him hurriedly before dark. What I have to complain about is that although the Ming Dynasty prison (province) rebuilt in 1984 was famous for Su San (demolished during the turmoil), the ticket price actually exceeded that of the Forbidden City.
The official name of Dahuaishu is Ming Dynasty Immigrant Site (Province). In the early Ming Dynasty, in order to make up for the population loss caused by the war, the imperial court immigrated to the Central Plains and North China on a large scale from the prosperous Shanxi and southern Shanxi areas. Some villages on the outskirts of Beijing are still named after counties in Shanxi, and the residents have sung for generations, "If you want to ask where my family is from, the big pagoda tree in Hongdong County" (my ancestors are also said to have come from the big pagoda tree). Because immigrants are forced, they are tied with ropes all the way, so there are northerners who like to walk with their hands behind their backs, and go to the toilet called "releasing their hands". But what is puzzling is that there is no record of the widespread immigration of the big pagoda tree in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. " was the first time it was mentioned. There is a view that the big locust tree is only a symbol of cultural identity, the so-called spiritual
. The heritage parks built by people today are more about the memory of immigrants.
Figure 5. The shadow of the big locust tree and the big locust tree
Figure 6. Guandi Temple and Catholic Church in Hongdong
Accommodation: Hongdong
Visited in Jiexiu today: Jiexiu Museum, Zoroastrian Tower (National 4), Chenghuang Temple (National 7), Guandi Temple (City), Houtu Temple (National 5). Visited in Hongdong: Prison of Ming Dynasty (province), Guandi Temple (State 7), Hongdong Catholic Church, Ming Dynasty immigration site (big pagoda tree) (province).
