During the trip to Ali in 2017, turning around the mountain was absolutely listed as a compulsory course for the trip. And that trip around the mountain eventually became an indelible and important chapter in my memory, and I still remember it vividly in retrospect. If someone asks me again: Can I go around the mountain? I will answer: "You must do it."
Turning around Mount Gang Rinpoche is the lifelong pursuit of Buddhists, Hindus, Bon believers and Indian Jains. It is said that pilgrims can wash away their sins for a lifetime if they turn around the mountain once; Avoid the suffering of going to hell; turning a hundred laps around the mountain can become a Buddha and ascend to heaven in this day; and turning around the mountain in the year of the horse when Sakyamuni was born can increase the merits of one round by twelve times, which is equivalent to thirteen laps in a normal year , and the most effective and accumulated long merit. When we turn around the mountain, we don’t do it to make meritorious deeds, but to meet, to meet the call of the holy mountain; to meet the power of faith; to meet the magic of life, to meet another self; to meet all possible unknowns; before departure, the Tibetans presented each of us with a Auspicious Hada, wish us every success.
D1: Taqin-2KM-Two Legs Pagoda-3KM-Sexiong-6KM-Qugu Temple-11KM-Zhire Temple [22KM about 8 hours]
At 9:00 a.m. on June 15, 2017, we set off from Talqin in Baga Township, Pulan County, and took the first step towards the holy mountain. The two team leaders Matt started and Xiao Fan finished. Before we left, we took the initiative to close the distance with Xiaofan. According to our own strength in the team, we objectively determined the inevitability of the ending, and enjoyed and slowly experienced the whole process of turning the mountain.
We follow the route in the picture below and complete the journey in two days.
China's ashes-level self-abuse hiking route - Gang Rinpoche turns around the mountain, the whole journey is about 56 kilometers, and the highest altitude is 5640 meters. I have taken firm steps on that sacred road.
Mani piles can be seen everywhere along the way, and the mani stones are engraved with Buddhist scriptures. The so-called mani stone is a stone engraved with Tibetan scriptures. The scriptures can be long or short. The simplest is probably to engrave the six-character mantra-唵 (ong) well (ma) (ni) (bei) (mie) ) Hum (hòng), to worship the gods.
Passing through the first prayer flag square, the birds there did not shy away from our visit, looking straight up at us.
In Jingfan Square, we took a group photo with the Tibetan guide. The two Tibetan boys are our patron saints along the way.
On the first day, the starting point of the mountain tour is 4,700 meters above sea level, and the whole journey is 22 kilometers. The front part of the mountain road is relatively gentle and the scenery is relatively beautiful. You can often meet yaks and caravans, as well as shepherds and pilgrims. Those smart lives and the valleys of heaven and earth It constitutes a majestic landscape.
Two hours later, we arrived at the two-legged pagoda known as the "Gate of Gangdisi Mountain". A door-shaped passage under the pagoda. It is said that only innocent people can pass between its legs and get the favor of God. Sinful people cannot pass through the pagoda. For those who come here in person, this legend can be regarded as a kind of spiritual consolation. We all went through the stupa as soon as we lowered our heads, which was very smooth.
It takes about 15 to 20 days for devout Tibetans to turn around the mountain with their heads long. We can only admire the worshipers who are out of breath on the way around the mountain.
The Qugu Gongba marked on the road sign should be named after the Qugu Temple on the mountainside. This is also our first supply station. It is already 11:45 noon, take a short rest here, have a pot of buttered tea, a bowl of instant noodles, and then move on.
Cold-resistant Potentilla grows in valley slope grasslands, rock crevices, river valley terraces and swamp edges at an altitude of 2200-4800 meters.
Cushion-shaped plums grow on gravel slopes, valley terraces and gentle mountain tops at an altitude of 3500-5000 meters.
At an altitude of nearly 5,000 meters, the low temperature, drought, barrenness and lack of oxygen make it difficult for us to breathe, but we can see flowers blooming, and feel the wonder of the Creator, admiration and tenacity of vitality.
The meandering Laqu River murmurs through the mountains and valleys, beating the earth like a cheerful musical note and echoing in the valley.
Between the 100-meter-high cliffs, there is a gurgling mountain spring rushing down to the Laqu River. It is said that the mountain spring is high-quality drinking water.
The altitude is gradually rising along the way. When the altitude exceeds 5,000 meters, the surface of the Laqu River is frozen.
The road sign indicates to cross the bridge to the left to Zhire Pugongba, which is the destination of the first day of the two-day mountain tour plan, Zhire Temple, also known as Zeripu Temple
While walking, a groundhog jumped into my sight. The scientific name of marmot is marmot. It inhabits alpine meadows and grasslands between 2500 and 5200 meters above sea level. It mainly feeds on herbs. It is a representative animal of alpine grasslands. Because there are many types of natural enemies, its temperament is extremely alert , vision and hearing are very keen.
The Himalayan marmot is also the main host and disseminator of plague and some natural foci of disease pathogens.
The closer you get to the Zhire Temple, the mountains that Gang Rinpoche has been covered by the mountains are gradually revealed. Wherever you can see the holy mountain, there must be flying prayer flags.
Zhire Temple is located at the foot of the mountain on the north bank of the Laqu River, facing the north wall of the holy mountain. It was founded by Gu Cangba, a famous master of the Drukpa Kagyu Sect. The row of houses outside the temple is a temple hotel. Generally speaking, Tibetans who travel to the mountain like to live here, while most people who travel to the mountain from other places will choose to live in the "Xishapangma" on the south bank of the Laqu River near Kailash Beibi. Hotels" and tents, simple board room hotels. The reason is very simple. To stay at the Zhire Temple "hotel", you have to walk 2 kilometers longer, go down to the bottom of the river and then climb up the hillside. Walking an extra 2,000 meters at such an altitude is also a great test of physical fitness! Not afraid of hardships, we chose to live in Zhire Temple, taste a Buddhist vegetarian meal, and receive a Buddhist aroma. It cannot be said that we have washed away all the lead, but at least we have no distracting thoughts at the moment.
Zhire Temple, also known as "Zheripu Temple", has an altitude of 5210m. In such a wilderness, the construction of such a temple facing the north wall of Gang Rinpoche naturally has its magical legend. According to legend, when Master Gu Cangba came here to explore the sacred mountain and turn around the mountain road, a wild female yak suddenly appeared in front of him, which shocked the master a lot. When he regained his composure, he suddenly realized that the wild female yak was the incarnation of the lion-faced dakini and came to lead the way. So the master followed the huge wild female yak to the east. When they came to a rock in a cave, the yaks suddenly disappeared without a trace. Master Gu Cangba was puzzled and searched around, and finally found the trace of the wild female yak on the huge rock on the top of the cave, so this cave is called "Zhire" - "Zhire", which means the disappearance of the wild yak in Tibetan meaning of place. Later, Dunzhu Tongmei, a famous master of the Drukpa Kagyu Sect, built a temple centering on this cave, and Zhire Temple became famous from then on, and the inheritance of the Drukpa Kagyu Sect has never been interrupted. The temple still enshrines the statue of the ancient Cangba master, numerous Buddha statues, scriptures, pagodas and the hall of the auspicious guardian with four walls.
The first day's itinerary ends at Zhire Temple. From 9:00 am to 17:00 pm, from an altitude of 4,700 meters to an altitude of 5,210 meters, 8 hours of hard trek, the journey is 22KM, in order to turn around the mountain, face the mountain, see the mountain, and at this moment, standing in the heat In front of the temple hotel, facing the sacred mountain, the heart is not magnificent, but calm as water.
All the lives I saw along the way relied on their own tenacity to overcome the harsh natural environment, and the existence of all lives deserves to be respected. At this time, I more or less comprehended the will of Buddhism. Visiting Buddha and worshiping Buddha is not as good as enlightening Buddha.
On the first day of Zhuanshan, all the team members arrived at Zhire Temple before 6:00 p.m., and the second day will be a more difficult day. Due to the difference in physical fitness, there are three options for those who cannot insist on going around the mountain: 1. Make an appointment in advance for a rescue vehicle to return on the same road (22KM fare 500 yuan); 2. Choose to ride a horse over the Zhuomala Pass (6KM/600 yuan), and then go down the mountain by yourself (6KM), then hike 22KM to Tarqin; 3. Choose to ride a horse over the Zhuomala Pass (6KM/600 yuan), then go down the mountain by yourself (6KM), and then return by rescue vehicle (22KM fare 600 yuan);
D2: Zhire Temple - 3KM - Sky Burial Terrace - 3KM - Zhuomala Mountain Pass - 6KM - Menqu Riverside - 10KM - Camping Site - 2KM - Zuchu Temple - 6KM - Exit Toll Office - 4KM - Taqin [34KM about 16 Hour】;
Due to the high-altitude and high-intensity itinerary in the past few days, two teammates were unable to participate before turning the mountain. Last night, two teammates were unable to continue due to high altitude reactions. Today's itinerary is long and difficult. In order to ensure that the rest of the team members can complete the mountain tour smoothly, the team leader proposes to start at 5 o'clock in the morning. When we stepped out of the gate of Zhire Temple with the headlights on our heads, we saw such a scene: the outdoors were windy and snowy, pitch black, frosty, rustling and majestic. This is a picture taken by a teammate with a mobile phone lighting.
The world was vast, the darkness was mixed with wind and snow, the oxygen was thin, and there was no road on the ground. We followed the leader closely and groped forward with difficulty. It was just dawn at 7:14, the outline of the mountain was revealed, and the snow had stopped. I raised my phone and took the first photo of the day.
Before the sky was completely bright, the teammates kept pace and worked closely together.
The sky was hazy and cloudy, and our energy was too concentrated on the road under our feet. The mysterious place of reincarnation at the celestial burial was actually missed, and there were no clothes left behind.
Although the mountain slopes were full of gravel and snow, and walking was extremely difficult, no one was left behind.
What is more important than viewing the scenery at this time is to fully experience the process of walking on the road.
The mountain, the rock, the wind, the snow, the road, and the people walking on the road all set off the tragedy and desolation between heaven and earth.
Often on the road, there will be a critical state of ice that freezes between the stones and the cracks in the stone. When you step on it, the stone surface is very slippery and not stable. difficult.
Such a mountain climbing section is six kilometers long, and the altitude rises 400 meters in a straight line. Every step forward is a test of the physical limit. Brother Guo knelt down directly.
Brother, do you want to cast your body on the ground, crawl forward, and measure the road around the mountain? It's a bit difficult, so I advise you to get up.
After nine o'clock, the dark clouds finally dissipated, and the sun shone on the hillside, bringing a little warmth and hope.
In this empty wilderness, walking slowly, we walked back and forth like this, measuring this sacred land step by step with our own steps. Meter by meter, the road stretches far away under the feet.
At 9:30, we went through untold hardships and finally stood at the commanding height of the whole journey: Zhuomala Pass.
Zhuomala Pass is also known as "Tara Pass". A large area of colorful prayer flags on the pass fluttered in the strong wind. Teammates presented khatas and tied prayer flags, and stayed here in the most elegant and classic way. The imprint of a visit.
We left our footprints and figures on the pass with the highest altitude in the world. The mobile phone shows that the altitude is 5618 meters, while the pass mark is 5641 meters. Once again refreshed the highest altitude of life.
People will never look tall just because you stand at a high altitude. What is really tall should be the human mind and soul. At this moment, I feel like a speck of dust in the vast universe, which may drift away with the wind at any time.
The Yakgu Co at the bottom of the mountain pass (the bathing pool of the lost Dakini) is rich in minerals, and when the weather is fine and the temperature is suitable, it turns emerald green. There was a heavy snowfall last night, and there was only a jade plate-shaped concave surface on the ground, and the color of the water was not visible. Still completely and clearly showing an oval jade basin.
The next section of the 3-kilometer downhill road is no easier than going up the mountain. The 70-degree steep slope and the gravel on the slope do not know where the road is. The fine and loose sand and lime make it impossible to find a fulcrum at the foothold. Slowly descending, fortunately with trekking poles as a fulcrum, we survived this difficult downhill road.
Looking back, the high slope directly behind is the downhill road just now. It is not an exaggeration to say that it is a 70-degree steep slope?
From 5 o'clock in the morning to the present, no grain of rice has been eaten. I climbed mountains and ridges all the way, and last night I tasted the tribute fruit from Zhire Temple out of curiosity. What I look forward to is the intermediate supply station.
The Tibetan guide said that there are still 2 kilometers (more than two kilometers), and the supply station will be reached after turning around Wan'er. It's like seeing a lighthouse in the ocean, and looking forward to the dawn in the dark, reviving the spirit and moving forward. We turned a corner and didn’t see the supply station, and turned another turn and still didn’t see the supply station. The 2-kilometer road was endlessly torturing us who were hungry and exhausted.
When the flame of hope was about to be extinguished with the last breath left in his consciousness, the tofu block-like tent appeared in the field of vision, feeling like he was saved from a desperate situation. It was past twelve noon when we exhausted our last strength to reach the supply point, and our advance troops were fully fed and ready to go. A bowl of noodles was soaked in half-boiled water so that it was half-soft but not hard. I reluctantly swallowed half of the bowl, drank two cups of sweet tea, took a break and continued to move forward. How can I turn back when I open my bow? There are still 22 kilometers away from the finish line, come on!
Starting from the supply point, compared to the difficulty of climbing the Zhuomala Pass and the steepness of the downhill road, the road is already much easier at this time. The road along the Zongqu River Valley is very flat, and there are no twists and turns in the walk. no rest.
On the monotonous road, those who ride yaks, those who kowtow with their long heads, those who ride horses or on foot, whether they have faith or not, you, me, and him will all look at each other and smile when they meet each other, and say "Tashi" to each other in a friendly way. Dele"... The long road to the mountain is connected by such a variety of factors, and it gradually becomes warm...
However, no amount of fellow travelers and no friendly greetings can replace my step-by-step progress. Loneliness sometimes begins to grow and spread like weeds in the spring breeze. Gradually, the stretching mountain peaks around me no longer became the scenery in my eyes. I began to envy those who ride oxen and horses, admire those who prostrate and kowtow, and suddenly I became jealous of birds in the air, moths in the grass, and even flies on cow dung. It cannot grow a pair of wings by itself.
Tibetans believe that all things have spirits. If someone wants to harm the living beings that coexist with Tibetans, he is a sinner who violates the beliefs of his ancestors. The pilgrimage team in the distance raised and lowered their hands, and their bodies rose and fell one after another. In the silent mountains and fields, the sound of pounding the earth echoed. So I remembered that old Tibetan folk song: I measured the black land with my body, and pointed out the white clouds with my fingers. I climbed the steep cliffs like climbing a ladder, and I climbed the flat grassland like reading a scripture. lift over...
The best way to go on a long-distance trek is to divide the journey into several sections, and the end of each section becomes the goal to be achieved, so that every step forward has something to look forward to. Between hope and despair, there is always a point of support, and Zunzhuipu Temple is that. Opposite the Zunzhuipu Temple, there is a circle of simple houses as a supply point for food and lodging. Most people who choose to go around the mountain for three days live here.
When we arrived at Zunzhuipu Temple, we were one step closer to the finish line, and there were only the last 12 kilometers left. After walking 3/4 of the distance, people have become the end of their strength, and the appearance of Zunzhuipu Temple is tantamount to a life-saving straw. Walking into the Tibetan teahouse opposite the temple, I sat down and never wanted to stand up again. I really hope this is the end. Even when such a cute child appeared in front of my eyes, I couldn't arouse my love. It's not that I don't have love. I'm really exhausted and helpless! After resting for half an hour, I drank a cup of sweet tea, gritted my teeth and got up to move on.
Caragana versicolor: low shrub, 20-80 cm high. The bark is brown or dark brown and often has ribs, and the branches and leaves harden into needles. Corolla yellow, calyx small, born on gravel hillsides and gravel river beaches at an altitude of 4500-4800 meters. The appearance of a large number of color-changing Caragana bushes shows that we are already below 4,800 meters above sea level, and the green plants seem to bring a little comfort to the tired soul.
Leaving Zunzhuipu Temple, the undulating slope road began again, and the road became narrow. Most of them walked along the edge of the cliff, which had a taste of canyon scenery. Tibetans are resting on the side of the road, and there are also yaks playing leisurely in the valley below the slope. They just keep walking like this, passing one bend after another, climbing one slope after another, and every time they turn a mountain bend, they can see The winding mountain road ahead stretches into a thin line, and then disappears at the next bend, endlessly.
The last 12-kilometer journey is the most difficult stage in the whole process of turning the mountain. It seems that the road ahead is endless. What persistence, what comprehension, what purification, what refreshment, all disappear from the mind, and the heart does not use it. The washing has become clean and empty. At this moment, the only option is to move forward mechanically.
At first I thought that there were only 12 kilometers left, and I thought that success was in sight, but the hillsides and detours were endless, which directly shattered all the dreams in my heart. There are only two choices in front of you, either go down or fall down. What is despair? What is a crash? These words need us to bear with the greatest attenuation of life at this moment.
Everyone walking on the road is like a lonely ant walking alone, and every erratic soul is watching the final exit at the end. For the remaining part of the road, there is no scenery in the eyes anymore, and the legs are moving forward numbly and mechanically. I finally saw the village and my mobile phone got a signal. At this time, the team leader Matt sent a message, "How far is it? I will pick you up at the exit." It was 18:48 at this time.
When I learned that there were still four kilometers to go and that Matt was picking up the driver at the exit, it was like a shot in the arm. The word Matt became the last motivation in my heart. The lead-filled legs were mechanically swinging forward rhythmically, and after silently chanting Matt more than 10,000 times in my heart, Matt and Tantu appeared at the exit in front of me at the same time. It was 21:00 sharp . An affectionate and warm hug resolved all the hardships and fatigue on the way. The joy of success crowded in the chest and condensed in the throat. If you ask what is your greatest wish at this time? Answer: "Sleep".
Back at the hotel, the extreme fatigue no longer cares about savoring and sharing the joy of success, sleep is the last word. When I woke up, it was seven o'clock the next morning. The moment I opened my eyes, tears burst out of my eyes unstoppable. It is the joy after overcoming despair and experiencing collapse, and the happiness of success after achieving the goal! I have climbed the highest altitude of 5,640 meters, and I have walked 34 kilometers with an average altitude of 5,000+ meters. With a record of 58,000 steps, I have well-deservedly dominated the WeChat circle of friends.
Turning around the mountain, I did not purify the soul and think about life, but the result occurred unconsciously during the process of turning the mountain. When people are desperate to the point of collapse, their hearts are clean, without any distracting thoughts and thoughts. Desire, only for that one goal to do our best. Therefore, as long as you have no distractions and unremitting efforts, any goal may be achieved. Those who succeed will never give up, and those who give up will never succeed. When you are lingering in the restricted area of life, you will feel that all life is worthy of respect. This planet is a community of all life. We should all love life, protect life, and respect life. On the pilgrimage, we measure with our footsteps, while Tibetans measure with their bodies. We will all feel the power of faith after going through all kinds of hardships. I began to respect and worship the belief of the Tibetan people.
What is the meaning of travel? Walking on the roof of the world, it is inevitable to touch this high-end topic. After the journey was over, I suddenly realized that traveling for me is not about how high the mountains I have climbed, how far I have traveled, and how beautiful the scenery I have seen, but that I have experienced and grown up in the process. Maturity is relative, but growth is absolute. Every day in life cannot refuse to grow. I learned to be patient in the harsh environment; I learned to be strong in exhaustion and despair; I learned to cherish in the vibrancy of life; The clear water taught me to be calm, the high mountains taught me to look up; the figure of worshiping the earth taught me piety, and the prayer flags flying in the wind taught me faith. The clear eyes let me see the holiness, and the pure smile is the hope of life. During the trip, the body and mind are pleasant, and the horizon becomes broad. Walking and walking, I got to know myself again and found the direction of my original heart. Travel thousands of miles, just to meet another brand new self.
