Visit the Suburbs of Beijing and Explore the Century-old Town

--Travel Notes of Gubeikou Town

I love traveling, like being close to nature and savoring cultural relics. Gubeikou is a sacred place in my heart. I passed by Gubeikou Station more than 20 years ago and saw the Great Wall of Crouching Tiger Mountain looming in the clouds and mist, which aroused endless reverie. . . Later, I specially asked my friends to climb the Great Wall of Crouching Tiger Mountain and climbed the highest enemy building. Overlook the undulating peaks and Miyun Reservoir, appreciate the beautiful rivers and mountains, and get drunk in the ancient town of Bianguan.

Gubeikou Town has a long history, and its dangerous terrain is known as "the key to the capital". It is located in Miyun County, northeast of Beijing, and is the dragon vein of Beijing. It is the main traffic route leading to the northeast, Inner Mongolia and the North China Plain, and is the northeast gate of Beijing.

Gubeikou is an important historical and cultural town with a thousand-year-old military town as its core, and has always been a battleground for military strategists. Panlong in the east and crouching tiger in the west, with Chaohe River in the middle. Two mountains and one river made Gubeikou an important pass in the era of cold weapons. The ancients described Gubeikou as: the east and west are steep and steep, and the pass can only be passed by a few; So what.

In the seventh year of Tianbao in the Northern Qi Dynasty (556), Gubeikou built the Great Wall for the first time. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, border defense was strengthened, and Qi Jiguang, a famous anti-Japanese general, was ordered to rebuild the Great Wall of Jizhen, and Gubeikou was an important node. Gubeikou Great Wall is composed of Crouching Tiger Mountain Great Wall, Panlong Mountain Great Wall, Jinshanling Great Wall and Simatai Great Wall. It is a section of the ancient Great Wall that has not been repaired. Through the incomplete city wall, you can really feel the majesty and sadness of the Great Wall. There are also many scenic spots in Gubeikou Ancient Town, such as Yanglinggong Temple, Caishen Temple, Yaowang Temple, Niangniang Temple, Erlang Temple, etc.

On a sunny autumn day, I chose the Huaimi train and started the exploration tour of Gubeikou Town. On the 12306 website, I booked the S501 train ticket of the Huaimi Line (if there is no reservation, you can buy the ticket at the suburban railway ticket window of Beijing North Station). Depart from Beijing North Railway Station at 6:56 in the morning, and arrive at Gubeikou Station at 9:23. The whole journey takes two and a half hours and the fare is 12 yuan. On the return trip, take train S504, departing from Gubeikou Station at 17:20, and arriving at Beijing North Railway Station at 19:52, the fare is 12 yuan. There is no seat number on the train ticket of the Huaimi Line, so you can find a seat at will on the train, and there are few seats on non-holidays and holidays.


Beijing North Railway Station Xizhimen. Metro Line 2, Line 4, and Line 13 all have Xizhimen Station. There is a sign at the exit of the subway station. It takes less than a minute to arrive at the entrance of Beijing North Railway Station.


There is no waiting room for the suburban railway, so you can go directly to the station and get on the train.

The cabin is clean and tidy, the air is fresh, and the WIFI signal is very good.

9:23 a.m. The train arrives at the terminal station, Gubeikou Station

There is a bus shuttle bus sign at the exit. From Gubeikou Railway Station to Gubei Water Town, it takes about 20 minutes by car, and the elderly card is free. Reminder: The dedicated bus shuttle bus only waits for 15 minutes and departs when it arrives. If you don’t catch the bus, you can take a taxi to Gubeikou Town, 20 yuan per stop, and 50 yuan to Gubei Water Town. The return bus departure time is different on weekdays and holidays.

Gubeikou Town Traffic and Tour Guide Map


Get off at Gubeikou Town Government Station, enter the old street of the ancient town from the archway of Jingjing Road, step on the old road paved with stones, and feel that you have entered the ancient times of the ancient town.

The hundred-year-old Banqiao is located on the main road of the ancient town. The entire bridge body is made of many large stones riveted with cast iron, and the cast iron has been polished to a bright finish. The passing of the emperor made it beautiful, the crushing of Japanese tanks made it cry, and the iron wedge riveted on the big stone tells the vicissitudes of time.


After passing Banqiao, walk south along the ancient street, turn left at the T-shaped intersection, and you will see the sign of the scenic spot.

There is a fitness park next to the scenic spot sign road, and the residents are exercising and chatting in the sun.

The well named by Kangxi, people used to line up and fight to draw water from this well. Later, Kangxi suggested that a large stone slab should be built on the same well, with three eyes, so that people could draw water in three times. Later, it was rumored that the same well The water tasted differently through different eyes. Now the ancient well has been protected.

The old pans and rollers beside the street remind the past years.

The streets of the ancient town are tidy and clean, and the residents' household waste is sorted well.

There are well-preserved old houses on both sides of the street, as well as new houses with blue bricks and gray tiles.

In the old house, there is a screen wall with the word "Fu" in front of the door.

old house gate

Moon Gate of the Inner House

There are also eye-catching new houses on the side of the road, showing the quiet changes of the ancient town.

Continue to walk south along the old street, and you will come to Yang Linggong Temple.

The Yanglinggong Temple was first built in 1025. The temple faces south and has two front and rear courtyards. There are mountain gates, corner gates, front halls, back halls, and east and west meditation rooms. The entire temple covers an area of ​​about 1,200 square meters and has been rebuilt five times. Among them, the statues were destroyed in the early stage of the "Cultural Revolution", and the mountain gate and the front and rear halls were demolished. In 1993, it was rebuilt according to its original appearance. On the outer wall of the mountain gate, "Weizhen Bianguan" is written, and on the east wall is written "Majestic Mountains and Rivers". There are 8 very eye-catching characters, all of which are one meter square. The writing is majestic, vigorous and powerful, which complements the ancient temple. , a perfect match.

Yang Jiye and the generals of the Yang family have held a particularly high place in people's minds from ancient times to the present. They are full of loyalty and are national heroes who fought against foreign invaders. Every year on the 14th day of the ninth lunar month, which is the birthday of Yang Linggong, the local people hold a temple fair for three days. There are opera singers, Yangko performers, and vendors.

Yang Linggong Temple Mountain Gate

Yang Linggong Temple is small, exquisite, simple and solemn. There are two entrances to the courtyard, which are divided into front and back halls. The front hall is dedicated to Yang Linggong and his eight sons. There is a plaque "truly invincible" hanging on it. The writing is vigorous and written by General Feng Yuxiang. There are two couplets on the doorpost, which are very interesting. One is: "The Pan family has no burial place so far; the Yang family has had an ancestral hall since ancient times";

In the middle of the front hall is a statue of Yang Linggong, about 2 meters high, sitting on a brick platform one meter high in the middle of the hall, wearing armor and a battle helmet, with smooth eyebrows and bright eyes, wide mouth, gray beard, and a majestic look. A dignified battle stance. There is also a clay statue of Yang Linggong miniaturized to two feet high in front of him. Under the niche, there are two full-body warriors, holding a long-handled sword and a handful of military books, standing on both sides.

Yang Linggong's eight sons, Da, San, Wu, and Qilang, sit at the lower left head, and the second, fourth, sixth, and Balang sit at the lower right head. The eight sons are all energetic and majestic, and there are war horses in front of the main hall. One horse, a horseman and a horseman are separated on the left and right, and the whole hall is full of fighting atmosphere, which is awe-inspiring.

On both sides of the outer wall of the main hall, two generals of the Yang family, Meng Liang and Jiao Zan, are depicted for their bravery. The well-known storytelling "General of the Yang Family" and the popular drama "Haotian Tower Meng Liang Steals the Bone", which tell the fragments of the great general Meng Liang. It is about that after Yang Linggong and Yang Qilang died in the battle of Liao Kingdom, their bones were hung on Haotian Tower by Liao people, and they were shot by arrows every day, and their ghosts were entrusted to Yang Liulang in a dream. Yang Liulang and Meng Liang retrieved the bones from the Haotian Tower, met Yang Wulang in Wutai Mountain on the way home, and the brothers worked together to kill the Liao general Han Yanshou who came to chase him, retreated the Liao soldiers, and returned to the dynasty in victory.


The back hall is dedicated to She Taijun and the female generals of the Yang family. There is a pair of couplets on the gatepost: "Serve the country loyally, the generals and soldiers of the Yang family shock the world; the heroines with a green heart and a heart turn the world around."

There is a statue of She Taijun in the middle of the back hall, with a majestic expression and a dignified appearance. On the left and right are the lifelike statues of female generals of the Yang family, such as Eighth Sister, Ninth Sister, Mu Guiying, Yang Paifeng, etc.

The murals on the walls on both sides of the main hall tell the story of the generals of the Yang family. Wonderful and legendary clips such as Mu Guiying's battle against Hongzhou and breaking through the Tianmen formation.

After leaving the Linggong Temple and walking south, you will see a "Your Location" screen wall guide map.

The God of Wealth Temple was built in the first year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1821). Bigan, Fan Li and Guan Yu are enshrined inside. The Temple of Caishen was used as a warehouse for the production brigade during the "Cultural Revolution", and it was able to maintain its original appearance. The old things are extremely rare and have now been repaired.

The Yaowang Temple, Guandi Temple, and Bodhisattva Pavilion are built on a high platform, commonly known as "two steps and three temples". The Yaowang Temple is three rooms wide and two rooms deep. It was built in the Ming Dynasty and is a place to pray for health. The Guandi Temple and the Yaowang Temple are built side by side, and the area pattern is similar to that of the Yaowang Temple, which means to protect the castle. The Guanyin Bodhisattva Temple is on the steps. On the other side of the steps is the Dragon King Temple, for good weather. There is a theater building in the temple, which is still old. There is a glazed screen wall outside the theater building.

From left to right are the glazed screen wall (rear), Guandi Temple Shanmen theater building, and Yaowang Temple Shanmen.

Yaowang Temple Mountain Gate


Archway inside the mountain gate

On the opposite side is Guandi Temple, on the right side is Yaowang Temple

Guanyin Bodhisattva Temple. (In the temple, you can see the ancient city wall when you look up. The city wall is covered with yellow moss, which is extremely rare. The ancient city wall has been rained and weathered all year round, leaving black marks, and the yellow moss is even more ancient. Look carefully, and the walls are left There are many bullet holes, which are the evidence of Japanese bullets.)

Dragon King Temple

Guandi Temple Mountain Gate Theater Building (inside)

Introduction to the east wall inside the gate of Guandi Temple

The "glass screen wall" in front of the theater building at the gate of Guandi Temple. Between the two dragons on the screen wall is a spider spirit. Whether there is water on its belly button is used to predict the weather. Dry, no rain; small drops, cloudy; big drops, rain.

Every year on Yang Linggong's birthday, the ancient town holds a temple fair. This is the residents watching a play in the ancient opera building.


The play sung is "Eighth Sister Yang Touring Spring", which tells the story of the emperor of the Song Dynasty, under the escort of Mr. Bao, went out to the court for a spring tour. Afterwards, Master Bao was sent to propose a marriage with an imperial decree, and Taijun She took the imperial decree, "Secretly scolding the faint king..., I bowed my head and asked for a gift list so that he can't find it anywhere." It has been loved and praised by the people for a long time, and they never tire of hearing it.

On the south side of the mountain gate of Yaowang Temple is the north gate tower of Gubeikou Town.

Outside the North City Gate, the inscription "Ancient Road Xiongguan" is written on the plaque

North City Gate Tower

Ancient cannon on the tower

Overlooking "Two Steps and Three Temples" from the North Tower

Overlooking Gubeikou Town, Chaohe River, Crouching Tiger Mountain Great Wall enemy tower from the Beicheng tower (the highest mountain top in the distance)

Along the city wall on the tower of the North City Gate to the west is the site of the Great Wall of the Northern Qi Dynasty. The Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty was built on the basis of the Great Wall of the Northern Qi Dynasty. This section of the Great Wall is severely weathered and damaged, and not many of the outermost bricks remain.

Continue to walk westward along the ruins of the Northern Qi Great Wall (this section of the Great Wall is the wild Great Wall, and the walls are simple dirt and stone paths, so pay attention to safety when walking), and in about 20 minutes, you will arrive at the first enemy building at the Great Wall ruins of the Northern Qi Dynasty ( It has been rescued and repaired), and experience the taste of climbing the wild Great Wall. The picture below shows the view of the first watchtower and the second watchtower.

Go out of the North City Gate and walk southwards not far to the Ancient Imperial Road


Reminder board for ticket purchase Tickets for the ancient town scenic spot tour are 20 yuan per person, and the Panlong Mountain Great Wall scenic spot tour is 25 yuan per person.


B&Bs and restaurants in Guyudaoli

Scenic river beside the ancient royal road


The Zhao Family Courtyard, an ancient dwelling of more than 200 years beside the Ancient Royal Road, belongs to the architectural style of Beijing Siheyuan.

Introduction to Zhao Family Courtyard

Enter the door and look up to see the happy screen wall of Hongxi

North room in the courtyard

There are small doors in the south room and the west room, leading to the vegetable garden outside.

There are several rooms in the backyard

The Ancient Village History and Culture Museum next to the Ancient Imperial Road

Displays in the Museum of History and Culture


Ms. Lian Wei (formerly known as Du Jianru), the mother of Zhang Ruifang, a famous performing artist and movie star, is a native of Gubeikou Town and an old revolutionary.

The program of the temple fair is being rehearsed in the Guzhen Cultural Compound (also known as Gege Mansion), and this is the leading aunt.

The enthusiastic tourists couldn't help but put on performance props, and performed a show "Running Donkey" with the team leader aunt


Erlang Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty and has a history of more than 600 years. The temple faces south from the north, with a building area of ​​97.5 square meters, five rooms wide and two rooms deep, in which are enshrined the martial sage Guan Gong, Erlang Shenjun, and Guanyin Bodhisattva. Wu Shengren is loyal, filial and righteous, Erlang Shenjun is solemn and mighty, and Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva is merciful and compassionate to all sentient beings. It is an auspicious place for believers and even ordinary people to pray for safety and peace.

Erlang Temple Mountain Gate

In the middle of the temple is dedicated to Guan Gong, a martial sage, the left hall is dedicated to the god Erlang, and the right hall is dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva.

Seated statue of Guan Gong enshrined

The iron chain bridge on the scenic river in the south of Erlang Temple, and the remnant Great Wall and Remnant Tower on the mountain behind the temple.

Next to the chain bridge is the water gate of the Great Wall that is almost silted up, and the word Guguan is written on the plaque of the water gate.

It takes about an hour to walk from Erlang Temple to Panlong Mountain Great Wall.

After leaving Erlang Temple, I found the notice on the nearby sign. I felt that the ancient town was developing too fast. I quickly downloaded it and followed the instructions to debug it, but I couldn’t adjust it. I asked the residents and they didn’t know. Hi! He was fooled.

After walking out of the ancient town for more than 20 minutes, we came to the Monument of the Seven Warriors. Pay homage to the ruins of the martyrs and bow to the martyrs three times.

Read the brief introduction of the martyrs' deeds

After walking for about an hour, you will arrive at the entrance of the Panlong Mountain Great Wall Scenic Spot after passing through the Erzhai Village.

The Panlong Mountain Great Wall is 5 kilometers long, winding among the mountains, deep gullies and dangerous gullies, and looking far away, it looks like a giant dragon circling by the mountains. Since this section of the Great Wall has not undergone much restoration, it looks simple and desolate, but it also maintains a complete historical style. Among them, the most important ones are the General Tower and the 24-eye Tower. The General Building is the commanding height of the Great Wall of Panlong Mountain. It has 22 door openings in total, maintaining its original appearance and looking magnificent. This is the place where the command organization is set up, and it is the place where the enemy and us compete fiercely during the war. The Twenty-Four Eyes Tower is the rear enemy tower on the east side of the Great Wall of Panlong Mountain, which echoes the General Tower. There are three floors in the twenty-four eye building. There are three arrow windows around the first and second floors, and crenels around the top floor. It has a total of 24 lookouts, which are rare in the history of Great Wall architecture and are very precious. Standing on this quaint section of the Great Wall and looking into the distance, the scenery is magnificent and brilliant, which makes people feel a sense of vicissitudes of history.


Panlong Mountain Great Wall Cultural Scenic Spot Guide Map

The signboard of the enemy building closest to the entrance of Panlong Mountain Great Wall Scenic Area. It is recommended to go to the General Building first, and you can reach it after climbing for about 20 minutes, then go east to the Haowang Building, and then to the Twenty-four Eyes Building. The whole journey takes about three hours.

The wooden plank road up the mountain is paved all the way to the intersection of climbing, and you don't feel tired at all when you walk.

A group of sculptures next to the wooden plank road depict the process of building the Great Wall, such as stripping off the bricks, burning the bricks, inspecting the finished products out of the kiln, carrying the bricks to the construction site, and digging and transporting the stones.


road up the mountain


Panlong Mountain Great Wall Enemy Tower--Haowang Tower

The enemy building has been reinforced for rescue

The situation inside the enemy building

The Great Wall leading to the direction of the 24th Eye Tower has collapsed due to heavy rain this year (rescue reinforcement is in progress), posing a major safety hazard, and climbing has been banned.



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