Walking in Northwest Yunnan

Searching for Shangri-La's Postal Trace in Northwest Yunnan

I have to travel every summer vacation. In 2020, I have been confined at home because of the new crown epidemic. To early September, the desire to travel far is stronger. On the evening of September 4th, I flew from Ningbo to Lijiang, and started a trip as soon as I said it.

Although as early as 2013, I traveled to Kunming, Dali, Lijiang and other places in Yunnan with a travel agency. But too many shopping arrangements and superficial tours make us feel boring. After that, I basically bid farewell to the travel agency and started a self-driving tour.

lugu lake

The first time I knew about Lugu Lake was when I was in middle school. I saw it from the magazine Reportage. There is a beautiful plateau freshwater lake at the junction of northern Yunnan and southwest Sichuan. The Mosuo people living there retain matrilineal clan marriages. system. The beautiful scenery, the strange custom of walking marriage, remote and mysterious, left a deep impression on me.

On the morning of September 5th, I rented a car from Lijiang Sanyi Airport, crossed the gorge, crossed the river, climbed over mountains and ridges and went straight to Lugu Lake (Figure 1, Ningli Eighteenth Bend). After entering the gate of the scenic spot at three o'clock in the afternoon, it rained suddenly. Climb to the viewing platform, the lake covered with thick clouds and surrounded by peaks is as deep as black jade. The rain on the plateau comes and goes quickly. Unknowingly the rain stopped, the clouds rolled and the clouds relaxed, and the opposite Gemu Goddess Mountain Baiyun Yiyi, the color of the lake became light and rich, and the water color was as blue as the sky... The islands in the lake were like floating green boats, shuttled back and forth The pig trough boat skimmed across the water, leaving faint ripples, presenting a wonderful dynamic picture (Figure 2).

Come to Daluoshui Village and stroll along the shore of the lake. There are white clouds floating on the calm lake, reflecting the majestic green mountains. The miraculous poplar flowers cover the surface of the water, with white petals and small yellow stamens dancing in succession with the water waves, shining brightly in the setting sun (Figure 3).

Sending some postcards to friends at the post by the lake. In the evening, I stayed at a lakeside inn run by a Mosuo girl, sleeping on the clear water of a lake.

After breakfast on the 6th, drive around the lake and go to the Lige Peninsula at the foot of Goddess Gem Mountain. Surrounded by water on three sides, it is quiet and beautiful. The inn on the island is built on the surface of the water, and the quaint houses and the green shore willows set off each other. Climbing up to the observation deck on the hillside, you can overlook the entire Lige Peninsula, the Camel Peak, Lake Island, and Locke Island in the distance.

Continue to move forward and enter the territory of Sichuan. Passing through Luguhu Town in Sichuan, I went to the post office to check in, but when I navigated to the Luguhu Post Office, I found that it was a building under construction. After asking the locals, it turned out that the post office was being remodeled, and it was temporarily working in a nearby alley, so I hurried to stamp it (Figure 4). Not far ahead is Caohai, and the only bridge on Lugu Lake, the Marriage Bridge. Due to the long-term sedimentation under the bridge, the water depth has become shallow, and there are dense reeds growing there. From a distance, it looks like a sea of ​​grass (Figure 5). Walking leisurely, the water ripples under your feet, the lake boats around you are swaying, and the white clouds above your head are like cotton wool, as if you are in a fairyland.

Come back to live in Shuhe Ancient Town, which was an important post on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. The ancient town is surrounded by mountains and rivers, with well-arranged houses, gurgling water in the lanes, and a beautiful environment.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the southernmost snow mountain in the northern hemisphere. It is famous for its danger, strangeness, beauty and beauty. Although I came here in 2013, the travel agency only arranged the cableway to Yunshanping because of the shortage of tickets for the cableway that went directly to the Glacier Park on the top of the mountain. In addition, there was heavy fog again, and the top of the mountain was shrouded in clouds and fog. Except for the live performance of "Impression. Lijiang" and the Blue Moon Valley, there are not many memories left. Before this departure, I learned from the official account of Yulong Snow Mountain that after 10 years of operation, the large cableway was reopened on September 7 after the steel rope was replaced for the first time. So we reserved the cableway tickets in advance.

I drove off at 6:00 on September 7th, and waited at the park gate early. At this time, the sky was just dawning, and the morning sun shone on the snow peaks. There was not much ice and snow left and the peaks were glowing with golden light. After the park opened at 7 o'clock, our first car entered the scenic spot, and the first group took the cableway up the mountain. Climb more than 1,000 meters from the transfer station at an altitude of 3,356 meters. After getting off the cableway on the 4,506-meter cableway, surrounded by bare rocks and residual ice, continue to climb along the walking plank road to the viewing platform at 4,680 meters. The sharp and towering granite peaks stand firm in the sky, and the large glacier lying under the fan of the main peak is majestic. The moon hangs in the sky, and the light mist wraps around the snow peak like yarn, which is shocking (Figure 6). At around 9 o'clock, the wind was surging, and the snow-capped mountains were shrouded in clouds and mist.

In the Blue Moon Valley under the snow-capped mountains, the water of the lake is clear blue, the vegetation around the lake is luxuriant, and the white clouds in the distance float in the mountains, reflecting on the lake, like a dream (Figure 7).

In the Ganhaizi Visitor Center, there is a glacier post office. Here, I stamped the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain postage postcard I carried with me (Figure 8), and bought a set of postage postcards with a special postage map of Lijiang Old Town to send to my relatives and friends (Figure 9).

Lijiang

Come back and live near the South Gate of Lijiang Old Town. The ancient city is surrounded by mountains and rivers, with flowing water in every family, and poplars in every household, and the scenery is beautiful. Because of its long history and splendid culture, it was included in the World Cultural Heritage List in 1997. At night, the ancient city is full of lights and lights. There are many shops, all kinds of goods are dazzling. The singing and dancing in the bar seemed a little noisy.

On the morning of the 8th, I entered the ancient city again. At this time, the ancient city has not yet woken up. There are row upon row of Naxi houses surrounded by flowers, clear streams passing through the city and alleys, and weeping willows swaying in the breeze. It looks simple, elegant and quiet, which should be the true nature of the ancient city! After traveling in Yunnan in 2013, I asked Zhang Yehua to draw a few hand-painted covers (Figure 10-13), which can quite show the characteristics of the ancient city.

After breakfast, drive to Shangri-La, passing two very important scenic spots on the way, the First Bay of the Yangtze River and Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Yangtze River First Bay

The Wanli Yangtze River rushes down from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and turns into the Jinsha River in Yunnan. It crosses the high mountains and deep valleys of the Hengduan Mountains, crosses the Nujiang River and the Lancang River to form a magnificent landscape of three parallel rivers. When we arrived at Shigu Town at the junction of Lijiang and Shangri-La, we suddenly made a sharp turn of more than 100 degrees and turned to the northeast, forming a rare "U"-shaped bay. People call this wonder "the first bay of the Yangtze River". The river here is as gentle as a mirror, and on both sides are green hills like Jiangnan water towns, neat farmland and villages and towns. We drove from the alley next to the Lijiang Memorial Hall of the Red Army's Long March to the gate of the hilltop park. When we entered the park, we could only see part of Dawan. Later, under the guidance of the local people, I climbed up a mountain by the river along the weedy and seldom-traveled mountain path, and I could clearly see the big bend (Figure 14), which is similar to Yuan Yunfu's "Wanli of the Yangtze River" (Figure 15). The angle of view is similar, but it is different from the angle of view of the postage postcard "The First Bay of the Yangtze River" issued by the Ministry of Posts and Telecommunications (Figure 16).

Tiger Leaping Gorge

After the Jinsha River flows through Shigu Town, the river rushes through a deep valley tens of meters wide. Along the banks of the river are Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on one side and Haba Snow Mountain on the other. The largest canyon in China - "Tiger Leaping Gorge". Two snow-capped mountains with an altitude of more than 5,000 meters are sandwiched by a roaring river, which runs for 17 kilometers. I bought some postcards at the Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge theme post office (Figure 18). The salesperson told us that there have been many rockfalls in the Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Lower Tiger Leaping Gorge recently, so it is not recommended to visit. Then appreciate it in a postcard (Figure 19).

Shangri-la

After entering the Tiger Leaping Gorge, you will arrive at the territory of Shangri-La. Shangri-La means "the sun and the moon in the heart" in Tibetan. It is the junction of the three provinces of Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet, and is also the location of the world natural heritage "Three Parallel Rivers" scenic spot. There is a unique landscape integrating snow-melting mountains, canyons, grasslands, alpine lakes, virgin forests and ethnic customs, which can be called "Xanadu, Wonderland on Earth". Just like the quiet, peaceful and eternal ideal world in the Tibetan area of ​​China described in the novel "Lost Horizon" by the British writer James Hilton - Shangri-La. China Post once issued special stamps for "Shangri-La", with the main images of Xiawei Ancient Temple, Clear Water and Blue Sky, Pinghu Emerald Green and Snowy Ancient City in sequence (after this trip, please create 4 corresponding hand-painted covers by Dai Yongxin). The main picture of the mini-sheet is Rizhao Jinshan.

After crossing the Zhongdian Grassland, we arrived at Shangri-La City in the evening and lived near the ancient city of Duzong. The ancient city of Dukezong means "Moonlight City" in Tibetan. It used to be an important town on the ancient tea-horse road. It was built according to the ideal country of Shambhala in Buddhist scriptures.

The image of the "Snowy Ancient City" stamp shows the Great Buddha Temple built in Guishan Park in Dukezong Ancient City (Figure 20). The resplendent temples are extraordinarily bright under the lights. There is the highest prayer wheel in the world, and many tourists are praying for blessings.

The next morning, I walked around the ancient city again. The ancient city was built according to the mountains, and the road surface is paved with old stones with a long history. There are still deep horseshoe marks on the stone road, which are the tokens of time left by the caravans who crossed the ancient tea-horse road. Find the post office in the ancient city, because it has not opened yet. Letters can only be dropped in the mailbox at the door.

After breakfast, go to Pudacuo National Park. The park consists of Bitahai and Shudu Lake Ecotourism Areas.

Bitahai Lake is 3538 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, green trees, and the lake is as blue as a mirror. It is a pity that Bita Lake is temporarily closed, and we can only appreciate its beauty from the special postage map of Shangri-La Pudacuo (Figure 21).

After the Jingjiao car entered the Pudacuo Grassland, the yaks were grazing slowly, and the horses were wagging their tails in front of them. The sea of ​​flowers in the grassland is shining brightly in the autumn sun.

Arriving at Shudu Lake at an altitude of 3,705 meters, flowers are blooming everywhere around the lake, and grasslands begin to extend wantonly on the wetlands beside the lake. The mountain view, lake water, and trees reflect each other like a fairyland (Figure 22). The image of the "Pinghu Pinnacle" stamp shows the beautiful scenery of Shudu Lake (Figure 23).

After a quick lunch at the gate of the park, we continued our drive. Passing through the Napa Sea on the side of National Highway 214 (Figure 24), this is a typical seasonal lake with different scenery throughout the year. At the turn of summer and autumn, here is a grassland, a carpet intertwined with flowers, meadows and highland barley. In winter, it turns into a wide water area, like a huge mirror. The "Clear Water and Blue Sky" stamp shows the scenery of the Napa Sea and the Yila Grassland in autumn (Figure 25).

Great Bend of the Jinsha River

The Jinsha River, coming through mountains and valleys, turns a standard inverted "Ω"-shaped turn around the pyramid-like Ricone Peak at the junction of Benzilan Township, Deqin County, Yunnan Province, and Zigeng Township, Derong County, Sichuan Province (Figure 26). Looking down from the top of the mountain, surrounded by mountains, the Jinsha River moves slowly like golden water. The red sandstone on both sides of the valley is exposed, the vegetation is sparse, and the climate is hot and dry. It is a typical dry and hot valley, with majestic and dangerous peaks, rough and spectacular.

So far on the Yunnan-Tibet line, there are no plains or basins, only high mountains and canyons, and all roads can only be torn apart on the mountainside. Drive carefully on the winding mountain road. There are often cattle and sheep walking slowly on the road, or simply lazily lying on the road to bask in the sun. They are the masters here, and the passing vehicles can only detour and pass slowly. As the altitude rises all the way, we arrive at the Baima Snow Mountain Nature Reserve. This section of the road has an altitude of more than 4,000 meters, and it is also the highest road in Yunnan since entering the Tibetan area. Because of the maintenance of the Baima Snow Mountain Tunnel, we had to cross the old road with many bends, narrow roads and no guardrails, and there was heavy fog from time to time, making driving very difficult. However, you can see the White Horse Snow Mountain at close range, and the snow-capped peaks surrounded by clouds and fog are like a white horse running in the clouds. Feet in hell, eyes in heaven! Probably this is how it feels!

Meili Snow Mountain

Meili Snow Mountain is located between the Nujiang River and the Lancang River in the middle section of the Hengduan Mountains about 10 kilometers northeast of Deqin County. It is called "Prince Thirteen Peaks". The main peak, Kagbo Peak, is 6,740 meters above sea level and is the highest peak in Yunnan.

Arrive at Feilai Temple in Deqin County at dusk on September 9 and check into the Guanjing Paradise Hotel facing Meili Snow Mountain. The staff told us that because it has been raining recently, the snow mountain has not shown its true face for half a month. I feel uneasy, I can only see fate.

I woke up at two o'clock in the morning on the 10th, looked out the window, and suddenly saw that the fog subsided, and wisps of clouds wrapped around the mountainside, and the holy mountain was faintly visible, as if in a dream. After five o'clock, the fog filled the air again, and my heart fell to the bottom again. At around seven o'clock, with the sound of the Buddha's chant from Feilai Temple, the clouds and mists on the top of the mountain dissipated, and the snow top was clearly visible, revealing a glimpse. More than ten minutes later, clouds and mists continued to rise up the valley, and the snow-capped mountains disappeared in the clouds and mists again.

All day long, we sat in front of the hotel window, facing the snow-capped mountains in the sky, watching the snow-capped peaks appear and disappear from time to time (Figure 27). The sun shines on the snow-capped mountains at noon, and a rainbow spectacle appears in the clouds and mists. In the afternoon, there was no more fog in the valley, and the ice cirques and glaciers under Kagbo Peak stretched like a jade dragon.

Visit Feilai Temple in the evening. On the way, I bought a few postcards with the postage map of Meili Snow Mountain in a store and entrusted the store owner to send them (Figure 29).

Woke up early in the morning on September 11, and the mountains were covered with fog again. It seemed that the snow mountain could not be seen, so I drove away from Feilai Temple.

Meili Snow Mountain is shrouded in clouds and mists all the year round, so it is rare to see it. "Rizhao Jinshan" often occurs when the sun rises on a sunny day in winter, and it is even more rare. Let’s appreciate this clear, clear and most breathtaking plateau scenery from the miniature sheet (Figure 30)!

Balagozon

It was over mountains and ridges again, along the Jinsha River, and arrived at Balagezong at 1:00 pm. Entering the scenic area by car, passing through numerous 180-degree super bends, hovering from an altitude of more than 1,800 meters to an altitude of 4,200 meters. The mountains in the canyon are covered with lush firs and spruces. At the end of the canyon, the Balagezong Snow Mountain with an altitude of 5,545 meters is one of the three sacred mountains in the Kangba area. We came to the plank road built on the cliff, and underneath is the Grand Canyon more than 3,000 meters deep. Overlooking the Grand Canyon from the viewing platform, the solid mountains and the beautiful river curve are perfectly combined, and there is an unparalleled charm, which is very shocking (Figure 31).

Come to Bala Village, which was once isolated from the world, it still continues the tranquility and simplicity of more than 1300 years. Surrounded by high mountains and canyons, you can see snow-capped mountains when you look up, look up at the towering peaks, listen to the sound of the wind blowing prayer flags, gaze at the eternal Shambhala Pagoda, and feel the greatness of "Contemporary Tibetan Foolish Old Man" Sina Dingzhu . He borrowed money everywhere, from a multi-millionaire to a billionaire, and spent nearly 300 million yuan. It took him 10 years to build the Heavenly Road, showing the world the beauty of the Balagezong, and lighting up the Balagezong. Landmarks on the map.

Leave the scenic spot at 6 o'clock and stay in Shangri-La City again at night.

Gadan Songzanlin Monastery

On the morning of September 12th, set off to Gadan Songzanlin Temple, known as the "Little Potala Palace".

Songzanlin Temple is the largest famous temple of Tibetan Buddhism in Yunnan. The two main temples, Zhacang and Jikang, are built at the highest point and occupy the center of the whole temple. The temple sits north to south and is a five-story Tibetan-style carved building. The Eight Great Kangshen and monk houses are surrounded by arches and guards. The heights are scattered, the layers are progressive, and the three-dimensional outline is clear. The temple buildings gather the essence of Tibetan religious culture. The buildings are resplendent and magnificent, with colorful gold-plated copper tiles and cornices with precious horns and animal kisses (Figure 32). The Zhacang Hall is a spacious and magnificent hall, in which there are many Buddha statues enshrined, and the murals on both sides of the west chamber are exquisitely carved. The image of the "Xiawei Ancient Temple" stamp shows the Songzanlin Temple overlooking the mountains. The temples and various buildings are well arranged and look like an ancient castle (Figure 33).

Dali

The flowers in Shangguan, the wind in Xiaguan, the snow in Cangshan Mountain and the moon in Erhai Lake constitute the four scenery of wind, flower, snow and moon in Dali. Erhai Lake is a fault-slumped lake with crystal clear water. It is a beautiful freshwater lake on the plateau. It is named for its shape like an ear. Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain together constitute the Cangshan Erhai Lake Reserve and Scenic Area.

Drive to Dali at noon, and get off the expressway from Shuanglang at 3:30 in the afternoon. First drive counterclockwise around the lake to the Butterfly Spring. There are many wetlands beside the lake, and there are many big trees standing in the lake not far from the shore, which has a unique charm (Figure 34). I can't help but feel that "Cangshan Mountain has no ink paintings for thousands of years, and Erhai Lake has no strings and ancient pianos."

Seeing that it was not early, I turned around and went back to Shuanglang to watch the sunset. Looking around from the viewing platform beside the highway, Yuji Island and Xiaojinsuo Island in the setting sun are like a pair of mandarin ducks floating in Erhai Lake. The sun is setting on the Cangshan Mountains, and the lake is sparkling (Figure 35). Under the Cangshan Mountain and beside the Erhai Lake, the most beautiful distance is here.

Live in Shuanglang at night. Walking by the lake on the morning of September 13th, the town seemed to be still sleeping soundly. The lake surface was like a mirror, the mountains were verdant, and the lake and water complement each other, forming a beautiful and peaceful picture.

Depart at 8 o'clock, go around the Erhai Lake clockwise, pass through the town of Duse, and see the little Putuo floating on the water like a golden seal in the lake (Figure 36).

Drive to the South Gate parking lot of Dali Ancient Town. The ancient city of Dali was first built in the fifteenth year of Ming Hongwu. The city wall has a radius of twelve li and a height of two feet and five feet. There are city gates on each side of the southeast, north and west, and towering towers on it. The south gate was first built in the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, and the plaque of "Documentary Name State" (Figure 37) hung on the forehead of the building is a landmark building in the ancient city of Dali.

Entering the ancient city from the south gate, a street runs through the central axis, with deep alleys and narrow streets interlaced with fields. All blue-tiled roofs, only pebble walls, clear springs from Cangshan Mountain flowing along the street, and flower bones everywhere at the foot of the walls, showing the simplicity, chic and elegance of the ancient city.

Chongsheng Temple is a royal temple of Dali Kingdom in Nanzhao during the Tang and Song Dynasties. It has a large scale. The three pagodas have gone through thousands of years of vicissitudes and wind and rain erosion, and they still stand in front of the mountain gate of Chongsheng Temple (Figure 38). The main tower is called Qianxun Tower, which is 69.13 meters high and is a square hollow brick tower with 16 stories and dense eaves. It was built in the period of Nanzhao King Quanfengyou (824-859 A.D.). The base of the tower is square and divided into three floors. The side length of the lower floor is 33.5 meters. The four big characters of "Yongzhen Mountains and Rivers" on Mu Shijie's title are solemn and majestic, quite bold. The south and north small towers are both 42.19 meters high. They are ten-level octagonal hollow brick towers with dense eaves. They were built in the period of the Dali Kingdom (the 12th century AD). Looking up from under the pagoda, you can see that the pagoda stands in the clouds, and the clouds move and the pagoda stays, as if it is about to fall.

As a symbol of Dali's ancient culture, the Three Pagodas appear on postage stamps (Figure 39) and postage postcards (Figure 40). In 1978, a silver-gilt inlaid garuda was unearthed from the top of Qianxun Pagoda and was also used as a postage map for Dali postage postcard tickets (Figure 41).

Say goodbye to the Three Pagodas in a hurry at noon, drive to Lijiang Airport, and take the flight back to Ningbo at 4:00 pm. Lingering are the sacred snow-capped mountains, steep canyons, tranquil lakes surrounded by forests, mirror-like skies, flowing rivers, dreamlike Shangri-La, literary Lijiang, romantic Dali and those cities that carry thousands of years of history. The ancient town of time...

In the context of the raging new crown epidemic abroad, China has carried out normalized epidemic prevention and control. Every time you go to the airport or enter the park, you must check the itinerary code and health code. Wearing a mask to travel during the special period, all the way to the post office to check in (Figure 42), left many good memories, and became the paradise of my dreams.