To the west of Kuoru Pavilion is the largest island on Kunming Lake, which is Nanhu Island. The only road to Nanhu Island is the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. In the last episode, we saw pictures of Kuoru Pavilion, Foxiang Pavilion and Seventeen-Arch Bridge in the same frame. In this episode, I went to Nanhu Island via the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. walk around.
Standing in the open area of the garden, if you look at the Longevity Hill, you will immediately see the Foxiang Pavilion; if you look at the Kunming Lake, you will immediately see the Seventeen-Arch Bridge between the East Causeway and Nanhu Island. Therefore, the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is one of the landmark buildings in the Summer Palace, and it is the landmark building in the Summer Palace.
The Seventeen-Arch Bridge is a stone arch bridge, and this stone is a white stone in the mountains. Where is the mountain? There is a white stone mountain in Laiyuan, Hebei. I don't know if it is a stone from that mountain. Stone arch bridge is one of the classic forms of bridges in ancient China. According to research, the earliest stone arch bridge in China is Xiaoshang Bridge in Luohe, Henan. Xiaoshang Bridge is a single-arch open-shouldered stone arch bridge like Zhaozhou Bridge. It was also built in the Sui Dynasty, 20 years earlier than Zhaozhou Bridge.
The white stone bridge in the Summer Palace is quite long, 150 meters long according to the current measurement. As I said earlier, ancient Chinese architecture should still be described with ancient measurements. According to the measurement units of the Qing Dynasty, the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is 300 steps long. The deck is sixteen steps wide. During the Warring States Period, "there were those in Chu who raised their bases and were good at shooting, and those who removed willow leaves could shoot them with a hundred steps and hit them with a hundred shots." That is to say, even if Yang Youji stood at the head of Kuoruting Bridge, he could not shoot the arrow to the poplar tree at the other end of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, because he could only shoot through the poplar with a hundred steps, but not three hundred steps. Of course, Yang Youji's hundred steps and Qianlong's hundred steps are not necessarily the same distance.
Looking at the Seventeen-Arch Bridge from the south on the water of Kunming Lake.
This arch bridge has seventeen stone arch bridge holes, as the saying goes, there are seventeen holes, which are called multiple arches. Counting from the highest bridge hole in the middle to both sides, there are nine bridge holes on each side. "Nine" is the largest number in ancient China and represents the supreme. Its bridge deck is also arched, with a height of two feet and three.
After Emperor Qianlong built Qingyi Garden, when he came to the garden by water along the Changhe River, he would walk under the seventeen-hole bridge. Seventeen bridge openings are like seventeen gate openings. The emperor must go through the middle gate opening, and the boats of the emperor's servants can only go through the side openings and left openings on both sides. Therefore, the door plaques and couplets are all in the middle gate. Look at the doorway facing south.
The door plaque is on the bridge railing, "Xiuzhi Lingbo". Xiu: Chang; Li (Nian Dong): Rainbow. In "Book of Songs", there is a saying that "the scorpion is in the east, and Mo Zhi dares to point it out". Modern people translate Xiudi Lingbo into "Changhong Wobo", which is very accurate. The first couplet is "Learning from Xiaoxiang's drizzle and light sailing over Muyu Islet in smoke scenery", Li Shangyin in the Tang Dynasty had a sentence "There is a smoke scene on the waves of Xiaoxiang, and the wind blows you in peace". Qinghang: a light boat; Muyu: the scenery of lakes and mountains at dusk. Li Dongyang in the Ming Dynasty had a sentence "the east wind is a dream of the waves, and the spring is in the drizzle in Xiaoxiang". The second line is "Sunshine Burmese Ming Sheng Ruanfeng Xinliu Chundi". Mian Mingsheng: Laogan should be in memory of his grandfather, Emperor Kangxi, the holy ancestor of the Qing Dynasty. Kangxi loved the grandson of Qianlong the most.
Behind the gate, that is, on the north side of the bridge hole, there is also a couplet.
The plaque on the railing of the bridge is "Ling Mo Yanyue", "Ling Mo Yanyue", Mo (Nian Tuo): Mo Long is the alligator. It is said in "Shan Hai Jing" that it is a mythical beast. It is said in the myth that the roar of the 鼍 is like thunder, and people cover its skin with a drum and hit it, and the drum sounds like thunder. The crescent moon is the crescent moon. Lao Gan is saying that the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is a bowed god. The couplet is "the rainbow lies on the stone beam bank and the long wind blows continuously, and the waves return to the blue paddles and the moon shines on." Orchid oars: Oars made of orchid wood; in Su Shi's "Fu on the Red Cliff", there is "Osmanthus oars and orchid oars, striking the sky and tracing the streamer". The blue oar mentioned by Lao Gan refers to the small boat, which corresponds to the light sailing in the couplet to the south.
Because the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is not on a fast-flowing river and is very tall, there is no need for stone boats in front of its piers to separate the rapids and spring ice, and there is no need for small arches on the spandrels to facilitate flood discharge. The side decoration of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is very simple. The arched eyebrows are made of stone, and there are no more carvings. The most simplified is such a high-level bridge. The Longmen stone at the highest point of the largest arch in the middle is also plain, without the common dragon head on stone bridges, commonly known as "dragon looking at the water". This is the sixth son of the dragon's nine sons, called "蚆螛 (reading the box)", he loves water, and beats the river demon as if he is playing. Take a look at the Yuan Dynasty Jiaolong Wangshui stone carving on the Longmen Stone of the Broken Hongqiao Bridge in the Forbidden City.
According to the ancient system, the middle of the bridge surface is thin, and the two ends are bell mouths.
There are no steps at both ends of the bridge, but a cobbled path, which is now covered with wooden boards to prevent Weng Lao from slipping and falling. In the middle of the bridge deck is the Qingshi Royal Road, and on both sides are white marble handrails.
There should be sitting lions at both ends of the railing.
This lion has long hair fluttering, sitting there majestic and majestic. Take a closer look, there are very freehand wings on its arms, indicating that this is not a lion, but an evil spirit beast.
Look at the handrails on the bridge.
It turned out that it was not white marble, but white marble. The handrails on the bridge are called Zen rod railings, and there are Zen rods supported by clean bottles on the plain railings. What is carved on the clean bottle is not lotus and lotus leaves, but clouds. Between the railings are plain watch pillars, and the head of each watch pillar is a stone sculpture. The plain railings and pillars, and the clouds on the clear bottles are the characteristics of the royal stone railings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. There are carvings on the balustrades of the royal stone railings of the Yuan Dynasty before. The pillars of the royal stone railings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties are usually solemn cloud reliefs. This is a garden, so there are lions on the pillars.
Look at the pillars.
The capitals of these pilasters are quite gorgeous, and there is a Xumizuo under it, and a brocade shop is built on the Xumizuo, and lions of different shapes are sitting on the brocade shop. This size of stone lion pilgrimage is probably the only one in the whole country. There is also a royal stone arch bridge in Beijing, which is the broken rainbow bridge in the Yuan Dynasty in the Forbidden City. The lion on the pillar on it is under the lotus seat. There is also the famous Marco Polo Bridge in Beijing.
Although there is a Xumizuo under the lion on the Lugou Bridge, there is no brocade shop on the Xumizuo. The Marco Polo Bridge is much longer than the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, and the number of pillars is almost twice that of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. But there are more lions on the pillars of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge than on the Marco Polo Bridge. Many people separately counted the stone lions on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, saying that there are five hundred and forty-four lions on the one hundred and twenty-eight pillars. These must have been singleton and multiple litter lionesses, but no one bothered to count how many hydrangeas the male lions had.
Look at the railing on the Longmen Stone in the bridge hole in the middle, it is solid because there are words on that side.
Standing on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and looking towards Yuquan Mountain, Yufeng Pagoda is close in front of you.
Standing on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and looking towards Longevity Hill, the Foxiang Pavilion is also vividly visible.
Nearby is a section of embankment of Nanhu Island, which is an important place for winter activities of Beijing citizens. Every year on the winter solstice, the sun is at the southernmost end of the ecliptic. At this time, the sun is the lowest in the northern hemisphere, and the sunrise and sunset azimuths are all shifted to the south, not in the direction of due east and west. At this time, when the sun is setting, if the weather is fine, the sunlight can directly shine on the east wall of the seventeen holes of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. At this time, the sunlight passes through the atmosphere obliquely, and a lot of cold color components are filtered out, and a warm color will appear, which is golden light. This kind of golden sunlight shines on the wall of the bridge hole. Looking from the north side of the bridge, the backlit bridge side and the lighted bridge hole form a strong contrast. This light and shadow effect is called "golden light piercing hole". Since the completion of the Seventeen-Arch Bridge in the 15th year of Qianlong (1750 A.D.), golden light will penetrate through the holes every winter solstice. For more than two hundred years, this landscape has had no special influence. Until a few years ago, around 2016, CCTV reported the golden light piercing, and since then this landscape has become famous. The next year, I booed with everyone to see the golden light piercing the cave, and took a picture back.
There was at least one regiment of photo shooters there that day.
They teamed up to squeeze me into a place where there was no camera seat. I couldn't see enough of the seventeen bridge openings, so I had to take pictures of the remaining bridge openings. In the end, a photographer showed off his black head and hands in front of me. In the winter of 2021, the new crown epidemic in Beijing is about to make a comeback. The municipal government instructed the Summer Palace to strictly prevent tourists from gathering. The Summer Palace Management Office followed the instructions and closed the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. Wooden piles and iron horses were set up at the bridgehead beside the Kuoru Pavilion to prevent deadly guards. The camera group all went to Longevity Hill, and set up the rocket launcher lens to take pictures of the golden light piercing the hole. This year, the official media published a picture of the best golden light piercing in history. They photographed all seventeen bridge holes illuminated by golden light at the best camera position, and there were not a single gnawing tourists on the bridge.
I couldn't fight those photo-taking gangsters, so I went to the south side to see the golden light illuminating the whole bridge, and I saw "Changhong lying on the waves".
They took pictures of the bright birch illuminated by the golden light in the bridge hole, and I went to take pictures of the dark walls in the bridge hole nearby.
You want to know how I got that dark wall above? You can use one of the light sailing oars under Kuoru Pavilion.
Another group of photographers gathered beside Qinghang Wharf, they are the sunset photographers I mentioned in the last episode.
Seeing the Golden Light Piercing on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is not a one-time gathering event every year. The Golden Light Piercing is not only on the day of the winter solstice, but also has almost the same effect within half a month before and after, and the difference is difficult to distinguish with the naked eye. Next to the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, there is another gathering of people on the shore of Nanhu Island every year. This time, there is only one day, and that is the moonrise in the Mid-Autumn Festival. Su Shi once sighed: "The evening clouds gather to overflow the cold, and the silver man turns the jade plate silently. This life and this night will not grow well, where will the bright moon next year be seen?" This time, there are no less party members than when the golden light pierced the hole. On the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival in 2021, I also took a photo of the jade plate below.
It is exactly, "Mid-Autumn Moon. The moon is bright and clear from the moon to Mid-Autumn Festival. It is bright and clear. I know how much it is. It is cloudy and sunny. Don't talk about cloudy and sunny, and I like the good seasons in the world. Good seasons, I hope that every year, I often see the Mid-Autumn Moon ".
Apart from these two happy hours, the setting sun on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge is a bit lonely.
The stone lions can only face the empty bridge coldly.
Dongjun can only hide behind the mountain alone, and has no choice but to go there.
In the twelfth lunar month of winter, you can often see the scene of Yang Shen's words "Xuanming is the festival, and the morning is covered by white mist" on the Seventeen-Arch Bridge.
The fog clears, thousands of hectares of Kunming have not made waves, and the wind and waves are still, and the pool is safe. If you ask where Liqiao is located, you should look at it from the ice when you step on it.
After crossing the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and boarding Nanhu Island, there is a courtyard on a high platform in front of you. There are two value rooms on each side of the courtyard gate.
This courtyard is the core building on Nanhu Island. In front of it is a small square with many arborvitae and three archways. Step on the courtyard gate and go up to the east archway.
The three archways have the same form. The wooden archway on the third floor with four towering pillars, white stone pillars, and green glazed lotus seats on the capitals of the pillars. Dougong lifts the beam, green glazed tiles and single eaves rest on the top of the mountain, and there are immortals riding chickens and a ridge beast on the ridge. On the horizontal square are gold-pasted Ssangyong and seals, as well as official Xuanzi paintings. This archway is quite high in the towering archway, but there is no yellow glazed tile roof.
Take a look at the inscriptions on the Huaban between the front and back of the Dongpailou.
In front is "Ling Xiao", that is Ling Yun, standing in the sky, unattainable. Behind it is "Yingri", which means Yingri.
Look at the West Pailou.
In front is "Qixia", which is the beautiful rainbow. Behind it is "mirror moon", the moon in the mirror, an illusion.
Look at the South Archway.
In the front is "Chengji", the clear scenery after the rain and snow. Behind it is "Rainbow". If you stand under the door, you can see the rainbow. These are all written by Empress Dowager Cixi.
Those with three archways in front must be big houses. Turning around and looking, here is a small temple.
There is also a flagpole in front of the temple gate.
This is Guangrun Lingyu Temple. When you see the red walls and yellow tiles here, you know that it must be of royal blood. Sure enough, the word "勑jian" was written in front of the name, and that "勑" was a variant of Chi. The inscription of this temple name is neither Guangxu Cixi nor Qianlong, but the hand stamp of "Jiaqing Imperial Brush Treasure". This is not the only one in the Summer Palace, it must be unique, right? Guangrun is King Guangrun. In the tenth year of Tianbao (751 A.D.), when Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty conferred the title of God of the Four Seas, he named the God of the West Sea as King Guangrun, and ordered Prince Zhongyun Liuyi to be in charge of offering sacrifices. When Qianlong built Qingyi Garden, Kunming Lake was also called Xihai, so this temple was rebuilt on the previous Dragon King Temple to worship Guangrun King of Xihai, so it is called Guangrun Temple. The spiritual rain is the rain of efficaciousness, which comes as soon as it is called and goes away as soon as it is waved. Laogan added "spiritual rain" after Guangrun because praying for rain here is very effective. Go in and have a look.
The Guangrun Temple looks very high from the outside, but when you come in, you can see that there is only one main hall in the courtyard. There is a one-and-a-half-foot-high base under the main hall, with tiger skin stones pasted on the outside of the base, bluestone on the top, and a hanging belt in front of it. The hall is three rooms wide and two rooms deep, with open doors in the open room, sill walls and windows in the second room, and eaves corridors in the front and back. On the top is a hard mountain top with yellow glazed tiles and a single eaves. On the vertical ridge are immortals riding chickens and three ridge beasts. The double dragons and seals are pasted with gold on the beams, and there are also gold decorations on the doors, windows and rafters.
A plaque "Lingyan Xiawei" is hung under the eaves. The words come from a seclusion poem written by Yu Chan (Nian Yusho) in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, "Lingyan is rosy, stone chambers are scaled, green pines are empty, orchid springs spit leaks, cages can swim, fragrant streams can be washed, and mysterious valleys are small" . Yu Chan described the Yiyang Mountain where Sun Deng lived in seclusion as a fairyland, which makes people want to live in seclusion. This poem was later collected by the Tang people in the hermit volume of the anthology of art fans. This Sun Deng was from Henan during the Sima Zhao period of the Western Jin Dynasty, not the Sun Wu prince who died before Sun Quan. As the saying goes, "Mountains are not high, there are immortals, and there are immortals." These fairy mountains are called Lingyan in official dialect. Wei is broad and grand; Xiawei is the sky full of clouds.
Couplets are hung on the pillars of the porch, and the first couplet is "the cloud returns to the sea and the dragon is thousands of feet". In the Tang Dynasty, Xue Neng said that "the air chases the clouds back to the sea, and the sound drives the stones to fall into space"; in the Song Dynasty, Lu You had "how the auspicious dragon winds thousands of feet, and the green scales and green mane fly along the riverside". The second line is "a group of cranes in the sky covered with snow". In the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Zhencheng said that "the sky is full of snow, the sky is full of moons, and the building is full of moons, and the night lights are floating in the sound of drums and bells"; This pair of couplets and the plaque match very well, they all talk about fairyland, and there are also a group of auspicious dragons and cranes.
There is also a door plaque "Zepu Ruchun" hanging on the door in the Ming Dynasty. The "ze" here can refer to the rain and dew from the sky, or the grace of the emperor. In the Ming Dynasty, Zhan Ruoshui had a saying that "ande will make this lake a spring for the whole world"; If we talk about grace, when Cui Dunshi of the Song Dynasty went to the Zichen Palace to go to the imperial banquet to eat the imperial food, he once flattered that "the Emperor Zepu Hanchun warms himself, and the day is too late for the hearts of the people to rejoice."
These plaque couplets should be original by Qianlong, but what you see now are all written by Guangxu.
Go up and pay homage to King Guangrun in the hall.
In the hall, there is a floor of gold bricks, a flat chess ceiling, yellow tents and red pillars, and a bluestone Xumi seat. In the shrine, there is the God of the West Sea holding a wat. This is a black-faced dragon king with a gaping red mouth, white teeth and silver beard, and glaring eyes. This is what he wears called "Dragon Robe"! The one worn on the head is called the dragon crown, with gold ornaments one by one. There used to be an old saying called "Dragon King's Hat - Dao Er Duo". Although there were flowers on the table, the offerings were only two apples, two pears, and a few pieces of chocolate. The five offerings are all empty, and there are no incense sticks. You should pay attention, here, King Guangrun respectfully holds the wat to receive worship, why? Because it was the emperor who came to worship him! So, you have to remember that this Dragon King here cannot be worshipped. If you let the Dragon King hold the wat to be respectful to you, wouldn't you be looking for bad luck?
There are walls on both sides of the main hall, and there are small doors on the wall, indicating that there is another courtyard behind. The backyard is not open now, and there is a two-story building inside, which can be regarded as the back building of Guangrun Temple. The back cover floor is five rooms wide and two rooms deep, and the door is open in the open room. There is an eaves corridor in front of the upper and lower floors, above which is a single-eave Xieshan roof with raised beams and gray tiles, and a plaque "Yunxiang Pavilion" is hung under the eaves of the upper floor. There is a local folk custom in China, "Mid-Autumn Festival, burning clouds and offering sacrifices to the bright moon". This Guangrun Temple is a temple. It is possible that Laogan inscribed "Yunxiang" on the back building after hearing about the folk custom of burning Yunxiang.
After Emperor Qianlong rebuilt the ancestral hall here, he named it Guangrun Temple. And write a poem: "Ling Temple overlooks Bijin, and Danyu is the new one. The clouds are full of curtains, and the waves are rippling. Han Hongfu Daze, time to help the people. Dream rain yesterday floated tiles, knowing the time is just in time for spring ". King Guangrun is the official title, but the folks still call him Dragon King. This temple is also called "Dragon King Temple", and this Nanhu Island is also called "Dragon King Island". In the 60th year of Qianlong's reign (1785 A.D.), there was a spring drought. On a certain day, I saw a cloud coming from the sky, so I rushed to this temple to pray for rain. Sure enough, some spring water dripped from the cloud. The emperor was overjoyed, and when he returned to the palace, he repeated the title "Guangrun Lingyu Temple", and thanked the Dragon King after returning to the temple. There is a record of this matter, and in the archives of the Qing Palace, there is "Xie Yu at the Guangrun Temple, and the name of Guangrun Lingyu Temple". In the seventeenth year of Jiaqing (AD 1812), he went to Guangrun Temple to pray for rain. Please rewrite "Imperial Order to Build Guangrun Lingyu Temple". In the Qing Dynasty, this was the place where the royal family prayed for rain, and it was said to be very spiritual. There are also several Dragon King Temples in Beijing, among which the Dragon King Temple in Heilongtan is the largest, where the Qing Emperor once prayed for rain.
After leaving the Guangrun Lingyu Temple, there is a beautiful hanging flower gate behind the west archway.
The beauty of this hanging flower gate is because of its gorgeous hollowed-out wood-carved door cover, which is painted and hollowed-out wood-carved by Huizi. It is very rare on the outside of buildings in the Summer Palace, and it is probably the only one made on the hanging flower door. The square beams above the door cover are painted with spinners, and the Huaban is also hollowed out with spinneret woodcuts. Mirrored panel door with gold trim on the door frame. In front of the door, there is a bluestone hanging belt.
This hanging flower gate looks like a hall and a voucher, connecting with a corridor inside. There are some buildings in the courtyard inside the gate, the most famous one is the five inverted rooms in the south, called Jianyuan Hall. Before the new crown epidemic, you could enter the hospital from the west gate, but now it is closed.
After the emperor came to Guangrun Temple to burn incense and pray for rain, he usually sat in Jianyuan Hall. If it's still early, drink a bowl of tea and leave; if it's almost noon, eat lunch here, and the meal will be delivered by royal express, and the emperor's order is called "Chuan Shan". While drinking tea and chewing wax, you can also look at the scene of water and sky from afar through the south window, which means "Jianyuan Hall". Lao Gan also wrote his impressions of viewing the scenery in a poem "Jianyuan Hall": "The clear water is wide and clear, and its lessons are easy to reach far. Clouds gather and disperse, and circles are surrounded by distant places. The husband is unintentional at the beginning, and the things are illuminated. Don't escape. It's so close and it's hard to be poor. I'm ashamed and embarrassed when I return." The mirror of the mirror is also, the first sentence of Lao Gan's poem points out the meaning of Jianyuan Hall. However, when Lao Tzu interpreted Jianyuan, he said: do not leave the house, know the world; The farther he travels, the less he knows. It is because the sage knows without doing it, becomes famous without seeing it, and becomes accomplished without doing it. Laogan only uses the appearance of "Jianyuan", and Laozi directly points to the inside of "Jianyuan", and the depth of skill can be judged from the others.
After Lao Gan left, his descendants would of course come to Guangrun Temple to pray for rain, and they would certainly sit in Jianyuan Hall to drink tea and eat. After the defeat of the Reform Movement of 1898 in the Guangxu period, the clan forces forced the Empress Dowager Cixi to abolish the emperor and establish a crown prince, and to make Pu Jun (Nian Jun), the second son of Prince Duan Zaiyi, the elder brother. The attempt to dethrone Emperor Guangxu is not accepted by the world, and there are many differences in the world. Helpless, the queen mother withdrew her orders and sent Zaiyi, Pujun and his son to Yili, Xinjiang to guard the border. When Zaiyi traveled to Xi'an, his family escaped and fled to the Mongolian Alxa King to hide. In fact, this was secretly manipulated by Cixi. After Pu Jun was named the false prince, he studied and read newspapers in Jianyuan Hall for a short time, which was called "reading books". Of course, I also drank tea and chewed candles here and went to the main room in the north to lie in bed and meet Duke Zhou.
The north room opposite Jianyuan hall is the main room in the courtyard, with a plaque of "Danhuixuan". Dan (Niandan) Huixuan is five rooms wide and two rooms deep. The front and back doors are open in the Ming room, which is the hall room. There are eaves corridors at the front and back, and the top is the top of the mountain with beams and gray tiles and single eaves rolling shed. Lao Gan once wrote a poem for Dan Huixuan: "Surrounded by the clear water, the secluded pavilion stays for a while. The flowers are leisurely and fragrant, and the trees are summery and green. The trees are thick and thick. I only pay for them without heart. How can there be a sentence for green. It is said that the only way is to be light , Wanjing Ren Fan votes." Looking at the last sentence, the "dan" here by Lao Gan should mean indifferent, calm and indifferent. It is after Nanfang Jianyuan that I come to this house to rest quietly.
The front yard is between Jianyuan Hall and Tanhuixuan. Passing through Tanhuixuan, there is a building in the backyard with a plaque of "Yuebolou". Yuebo Tower and Yunxiang Pavilion, the back cover building of Guangrun Temple, stand side by side, with the same shape, five rooms wide, two floors up and down, open doors in the open room, and eaves corridors in front. The top is also the top of the mountain with beams and gray tiles and single eaves rolling shed. Lao Gan went to this building in the daytime, imagining that if the spring and autumn are here to watch the full moon fall into the water, it must be wonderful. Zeng Lanjing once boarded."
There is a south-facing gate between Yuebo Building and Yunxiang Pavilion. This is a bright gate with high specifications. The gate hall is three rooms wide, with the door open in the open room and the solid wall in the second room, that is, three rooms and one opening. On the top is a hard mountain top with gray tiles and single eaves. There are brick carvings on the main ridge, which are rarely seen in the Summer Palace. There are five ridge beasts on the vertical ridge. The plaque on the door hall is "Hanxu Gate" with a gold bucket plaque. After the epidemic, the gate will not be opened, but you can swing left and right to go inside the gate, and from the gate, you can see the gate and the back of Yuebo Tower and Yunxiang Pavilion on both sides.
Entering the Hanxu Gate and looking forward, there is a figure-eight ladder in front of you.
Climb bravely along the ladder, and when you are discouraged, you can lie on the white marble handrail to rest.
After going up, you can see a palace on the platform.
This is a large-scale palace house, with five rooms wide and two rooms deep, and three rooms at the back of the building. The second room and the next room are sill walls, sill windows, and lattice flowers in the word "well". There is a circle of eaves corridors outside the hall, including the back building. On the top is the top of the hill with raised beams and gray tiles and single-eave rolling sheds. There are five ridge beasts on the ridges, and there are no immortals riding chickens. On the square beams under the eaves, there are official patterns pasted with gold scrolls and painted, and on the top of the sparrows are pasted with gold fancao woodcuts.
Even if this platform is the platform in front of the hall, the platform is made of bluestone, with a royal road in the middle and white marble handrails around it. There are five white marble dew seats on the platform, which should be two pairs plus one, and the middle one may be a supplementary one. These exposed seats were newly made during the Guangxu period for the Empress Dowager Cixi's birthday.
Nanhu Island was not so high before it was dry. When Qingyi Garden was built, Kunming Lake was dredged and part of the silt was piled on the island to form a mountain. Laogan built a three-story pavilion on this earth mountain by stacking stone platforms and inscribed it as "Wangchan Pavilion". I still look at Xiaopo hanging on the west couplet." You see, he wants to overlook Kunming Lake here, and then watch Xiaoyue Golden Toad, Xiaopo is Xiaoyue. The lake mud was not easy to compact, and when it was dry, there were no ground piles directly reaching the underground rock formation, so the Wangchan Pavilion sank hopelessly. During the Jiaqing period, the emperor was already afraid of climbing the tower to watch the toad. Fortunately, Emperor Jiaqing was not very interested in Chang'e, Wu Gang and Jinchan Yutu, so he ordered the building office to demolish Wangchan Pavilion, strengthen the foundation, and then build a single-story hall named Hanxu Hall. Hanxu Hall was burned down by the British and French allied forces in the tenth year of Xianfeng (1860 A.D.), and what you see before you is the house rebuilt during the Guangxu period.
Go forward and take a look at the plaque couplets hanging on the pillars in the Ming Dynasty.
Under the eaves hangs the "Hanxu Hall" plaque, written by Empress Dowager Cixi. At the beginning of this series of travel notes, I mentioned the Hanxu archway outside the east gate of the Summer Palace. The Hanxu on Nanhu Island and the Hanxu on the archway have the same meaning, and they both mean that the water reflects the sky. From the side, it shows that Jiaqing was short of words in his chest, so he had to use them again in Hanxu Archway. There are couplets hanging on the pillars of the porch: the beautiful clouds outside the sky, the cranes across the sea, and the mangroves and peaches by the moon. It comes from the poem of Li Shen in the Tang Dynasty, "the beautiful clouds outside the sky are lost in the sea cranes, and the mangroves are beautiful in the sun". The first couplet changed the word "fan" in the poem to "horizontal", which means that the seagulls are confused; the fourth tone of "horizontal" in the couplet means that the seagulls are arrogant (read the second tone), that is, wanton indulgence . The second couplet changed the "day" in the poem to "moon", indicating that the moonlight at this time is only slightly weaker than the daytime, and it can illuminate the fairy peaches on the tree. It must be the moon of Mid-Autumn Festival. This couplet indirectly shows that the author once admired the moon here in Hanxu Hall, and saw the bright moonlight in front of the hall, which is suspected to be frost on the ground. The person who saw the book in front of me was Cixi, but who was the author? Lao Gan first built Wangchan Pavilion here, which also means watching the moon. I am afraid that it is still a good thing for Lao Gan to change poems into couplets.
Guangxu hung a plaque of "Qingchuan Zaojing" on the Mingjian door. It comes from the line "Qingchuan contains algae scenery, and the high bank is surrounded by Huadan" in "Sunrise to the Southeast Corner" by Lu Ji of the Western Jin Dynasty. Lu Ji was the grandson of Lu Xun, the grandson of Wu during the Three Kingdoms period. In Lu's poems, Qingchuan refers to rivers, not plains; Zaojing refers to the scenery where the sun reflects on the water. It is also very appropriate to change the plaque to Qingchuan algae scenery, after all, there will be algae scenery on sunny days. These plaque couplets are matching, and they should be old products hung in Wangchan Pavilion in the past. When Guangxu rebuilt the Summer Palace, he was coerced by Cixi to rewrite the book here.
There is also a figure-of-eight ladder behind Hanxu hall. This ladder does not turn back and goes directly to the ground, which makes people feel very high.
There is a fairy cave between the "eight" characters, and an arched gate was built at the entrance of the cave. Lao Gan wrote "Lan Cui Jian" on the forehead stone on the gate.
Lancui originally refers to the mist in the mountains. Is the question here meant to refer to the mist on the water of Kunming Lake between Longevity Mountain and Nanhu Island? But does this mist have a "green" color? There is a pair of couplets on both sides of the door. The first couplet is "Liexiu Zhanping Mountain Cloud Condensation Painting". Liexiu exhibition screen: The mountains in rows are like screens unfolded, which is the Xishan Mountain. Mountain cloud congealing 罨 (Nianyan) painting: 罨 painting is color painting. Li Jianzhong in the Song Dynasty had "the painting of cloud 罨 in the clear mountain, and the ridges in the water of Guyu". The second couplet is "Pinghu Ring Mirror Threshold Ripples Empty Clear". Threshold wave: brocade threshold (read and see) wave, like the water wave of a beautiful railing. In the Ming Dynasty, Chen Zisheng had "willows in the pond with smoke, lights hanging on the brocade threshold". "Kongming" refers specifically to Qingbo under the moonlight. You can also see the "Ci Lin Chunli" pillow plaque hanging in the Xiaming Room behind Hanxu Hall. Cilin, of course, means that the words are like a forest. In the Tang Dynasty, Cui Jue (Nian Jue) had a sentence when he was crying for Shangyin, "the branches and leaves of the Cilin are exhausted in three springs, and the waves of the sea are dry overnight". The word Lin Chunli is the praise of spring.
At the beginning of Lao Gan's work as Qingyi, he followed the example of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty who dug Kunming Lake to practice the water army. He also said that he would drill the water army when he dug out Kunming Lake. During the Guangxu period at the end of the Qing Dynasty, Cixi handed over the task of rebuilding the Summer Palace to the Ministry of the Navy, and she must also practice the navy in Kunming Lake, which is blinding her eyes and ears. Empress Dowager Cixi would also come to the garden to look at the navy and pretend to inspect it, using the platform above the Lancui Room as the inspection platform. Those Beiyang naval learning ships lined up on Kunming Lake. The Prime Minister of the Navy, Prince Chun Yizhen (Nianxuan), got off the wharf at Lan Cuijian and boarded the inspection ship, and inspected from the front of the learning ships. Yizhen inspected and Bi Chong boarded the inspection platform to report to Cixi that "the fleet is ready." After three gunshots, the fleet lined up and passed the inspection platform from east to west. Because of the shallow water in Kunming Lake, these learning ships cannot sail fast, and they may not be able to complete the inspection in half an hour. During the review, the Queen Mother inevitably yawned three times, and Li Lianying brought out a bowl of fine tea from the Hanxu Hall behind her and poured it down for the Queen Mother.
In the twelfth year of Guangxu, water exercises in the Summer Palace were resumed in Yizhen; in the twenty-first year of Guangxu, the Beiyang Navy was wiped out in the Sino-Japanese War of Jiawu. Just four years after Prince Qing Yikui (Niankang), who succeeded Yizhen, took office as Prime Minister of Naval Affairs, the Navy Office was abolished, and the Water Exercise School in the Summer Palace was also closed.
From the east and west sides of the front eaves corridor of Hanxu hall, there are earth mountains to the east and stacked stones to the west. There is a small viewing platform built on the stacked stones, where many tourists go to stand upright or sit and take pictures. Although there has been no water exercise on Kunming Lake for more than a hundred years, Gai is facing the Longevity Mountain, and it is invincible when viewing the mountains and rivers.
There is a stone slab on the rockery ravine, which is convenient for the audience to go to the small viewing platform above. Some people call this stone slab a "half-step bridge". There are also some small stone slab bridges across ravines in the Summer Palace. The biggest one is the stone slab bridge on the Yuqin Gorge under the Zhuxin Building in the Garden of Harmony, which is also called "half-step bridge". The smallest ones are the two stone slabs on the creek of Qingqin Gorge in Jiqingxuan. One is in front of the third room in the backyard. I once joked that Lao Gan sat on this stone slab to soak his feet in the stream; In front of the north room door.
After seeing the towers and pavilions on Nanhu Island, it is inevitable to look at the shape of the island.
Rafting around the island, there is a circle of white stone handrails on the island.
The boat passed between Lan Cui.
Looking at the lake from a distance, I was lucky to meet:
The other wife and son entered the rivers and lakes, alone in a boat and paddling to ask about the future. Water floods Jinshan Road, and fog covers Yinding Bridge. Looking at the Zhacha Building on the other side, dreaming of cooking yellow beams for thousands of years. The weather is getting finer, the wind is gradually stopping, and slow down. No matter how splendid the mansions over there are, they must turn around and go ashore again.
The boat is near Xijin Ferry, and I occasionally see:
"On the independent cold river, Xiao Ran is a bald man. His dream is frightened by the snow waves, and his sick bones are afraid of the frost and wind. Far away from the trees and setting sun, in the deserted village in the evening mist. I have nothing to do, and who is the same with a bottle of wine."
In front of Guangrun Temple, you can see the "Chengji" archway.
Looking behind Jianyuan hall, there are five big houses.
There is a plaque under the eaves "Hui Yin Jun Ju", which is from Liu Xie (Nian Xie) "Wen Xin Diao Long" "Hui Yin Jun Ju, Hongfeng far away". Huiyin: The voice of brilliance, which alludes to the emperor's edict. Junju: Feiyang. Liu Xie's original intention was to say that beautiful writing is popular all over the world; here it should refer to "a word from the emperor is hard to follow".
Going west.
Go to Nanjin Ferry to enjoy the sunset on the western mountains.
The boat goes to the ferry empty.
Autumn mud and reed flowers bow.
Chong Jinwu Pagoda.
The sun is setting in the western mountains.
Sunset, heartbroken people in the horizon. Those with an unbroken heart can send the heartbroken person to the end of the world at this time and here.
South of Nanhu Island, there is another small island called Fenghuangdun.
When Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River, he fell in love with the Huangbu (read not) pier on the ancient Furong Lake in Wuxi. After a swim on the pier, he wrote a poem: "Two waters return to surround a continent, and there is no traffic and horses, only boats. When you come, you can look down on the original land. There is a building in the distant chant of Panzhi. The rainy and wet clouds seem to be heavy, and the misty islands across the lake are like floating. The building mentioned in Lao Gan's poem was the Huancui Building on Huangbutun at that time.
After returning to Beijing, he often recalled Jiangnan Pier, and built such a Phoenix Pier on Kunming Lake to imitate it, and built a Huibo Tower on the island. A golden phoenix weathervane was installed upstairs, from which Fenghuang pier got its name. Fenghuangdun was in the middle of the waterway from Changhe to the garden by boat. When Lao Gan passed by by boat, he wrote a poem for him: "Zhudun learns from Huangbu, and there is a Phoenix Tower on it. A painting hanging in a mirror, the four seasons are like autumn. The mountains are beautiful in the air, and the waves are floating in front of the seats. What are the three mountains far away, I hope you can enjoy the tour."
Fenghuang Pier and Longwang Island in the north echo each other, one south and one north, one phoenix and one dragon. Huibo Tower subsides due to the same reasons as Wangchan Pavilion on Nanhu Island, but it is smaller and sinks more slowly. Wangchan Pavilion was dismantled during the Jiaqing period, and the Huibo Tower persisted until the Daoguang period and was also demolished. After Guangxu came, a Bafang Pavilion was built on the island. Now the Bafang Pavilion on the island was newly built by the new China. The lakes and willows on the island are uneven, and weeds are everywhere. There are neither pikas nor jackals. According to the boatman on the lake, Fenghuangdun is a nest of mosquitoes. They fly to the shore to eat people during the day and return to the island to sleep at night. There are stone piers on all sides of the island. Occasionally, tourists will secretly board, and there will be people on the shore yelling.
The water of Kunming Lake is still and the waves are slight, and there is no wave without wind. The song "Let's Swing the Oars" is about rowing in Beihai Park. In the past, college and middle school students held their own rowing competitions on Kunming Lake every year. Not anymore, now they all drive electric boats, and even just sit on the shore and use their mobile phones.
Speaking of boating in the Summer Palace, I think of when I was young and in full bloom. At that time, there was a swimming pool on the south side of the Erlong Gate of the East Causeway, which was an official swimming pool. Sometimes it was not very enjoyable to go there to splash in the water. When we were in college, the school pool was closed for some reason and we used to have swimming lessons here. To the north of this swimming pool and to the south of Wenchang Pavilion, the current cruise ship wharf once opened the only inner-city sailing wharf in Beijing. Tourists who have a deep-water license for any swimming pool in Beijing can rent a small sailboat here. It is the kind of OP-level small sailboat that can seat two people and must wear swimsuits. It costs 10 yuan an hour. On a non-wave trip, I took this small sailboat with my wife to go boating on Kunming Lake, crossing from the east embankment to the west embankment by wind. When I went, it was windy and very pleasant. After passing the center of the lake in front of the Paiyun Temple, I dare not leave, because I don't know how to sail against the wind when I come back. Quickly turned around and headed back east. Not only did the boat not go, but it also tended to go backwards, so we had to lower the sails, jump into the water and swim to push the boat back. In the future, I dare not sail again, and I often see people pushing the boat back to the pier in the lake.
The predecessors often went boating on Kunming Lake, and there is a poem saying: "The spring water in Fengchi is blue and melts, and the geese have returned to fly and the fish are not ready. But you can see the toad pavilion in the center of the lake, and the jade hibiscus is lifted out of the crystal plate." The predecessor's surname was Qian and his name was Long and his character was Hongli.
(to be continued)
