The ancients said, "Advise you to drink more wine, and you will have no old friends when you leave Yangguan in the west." I usually don’t drink alcohol for no reason on the way to view the scenery, but after thinking about it, I still don’t want to go west out of Tongguan to see strangers. I still turn around and re-enter Jinnan. After crossing the Yellow River from Fenglingdu to the north, I ran forward along Kangzhuang Avenue in Shanxi. As I ran, I saw a tower.
If you have been to Xi'an to see the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, you will immediately realize that this is a Tang Pagoda! And quite old. Most of the brick towers in the Tang Dynasty were square, and the outer contour of the tower was not a straight line. The upper layer gradually retracted to form a curve. When you get closer, you will see a cement square, and there is a mountain-shaped shadow wall of gray bricks and gray tiles on the south side of the square. Although the color is a bit monotonous, the brick carvings are very delicate, in the style of the Jin School.
Where there are pagodas and screen walls, there must be temples. As expected, there is a mountain gate opposite the screen wall.
Looking forward, the door plaque reads "Pujiu Temple". The temple is built on the mountain, and the loess high platform surrounded by ravines in Shanxi is called "yuan", so it should be said that the temple is built on the mountain. According to legend, the temple here was first built in the period of Wu Zetian in the Tang Dynasty, named Xiyong Qingyuan, and it is a ten-way Buddhist temple. In Buddhism, east, south, west, north, heaven, earth, life, death, the past, and the future are called the ten directions; the Zen monastery is equivalent to a monastery, and it is the place where Zen masters of Zen Buddhism practice. During the Five Dynasties period after the collapse of the Tang Dynasty, Shi Jingtang who betrayed the Sixteen States of Yanyun had a subordinate named Liu Zhiyuan. After Shi Jingtang’s Later Jin was destroyed by the Khitans, he established a Later Han in Taiyuan. He became the emperor of the Later Han for a year The king died. Liu Chengyou, Liu Zhiyuan's son, ascended the throne as Emperor Yin of the Later Han Dynasty. When Li Shouzhen, the governor of Hezhong in Puzhou, made a rebellion, he sent Guo Wei, a privy envoy in charge of the army, to fight. Puzhou is where Pujiu Temple is now located. Guo Wei besieged the city for a year, and the people in the city gradually ran out of food and drink, suffering unspeakably. When Guo Wei came to Xiyong Qingyuan to worship Buddha one day, he asked the dean for a plan to break the city. The dean taught him that "if the general has a kind heart, the city will be conquered." Guo Wei immediately made a wish to rebuild the golden body of the Buddha statue, and attacked the city the next day. The city was broken and the people were saved. Since then, the monastery has been renamed Pujiu Temple. There are several celebrities hidden in this story. Liu Zhiyuan is very famous, he defeated Khitan and established the Later Han Dynasty. One year after Guo Wei's battle, he overthrew Emperor Yin of the Later Han Dynasty and established the Later Zhou Dynasty, known as the Taizu of the Later Zhou Dynasty. In the Battle of Pucheng, there was a soldier named Zhao Kuangyin in Guo Wei's army. Ten years later, in 960 A.D., he launched the Chenqiao Mutiny and established the Northern Song Dynasty as Song Taizu. Although the history of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms is very chaotic, it is true that heroes emerge in troubled times, and finally Zhao Kuangyin became a great hero.
Four joys are placed in front of the mountain gate. It turns out that the "Love Culture Festival" is being staged here. Monks in temples also have love culture? No, it's because the story of "The Romance of the West Chamber" takes place here. "The Romance of the West Chamber" is a zaju of the Yuan Dynasty, the masterpiece of Wang Shifu. Wang Shifu, Guan Hanqing who compiled "Dou E's Injustice", Bai Pu who compiled "Wu Tong Yu", and Ma Zhiyuan who wrote Sanqu are called the four masters of Yuanqu. Wang Shifu adapted "The Story of Cui Yingying Waiting for the Moon and the West Chamber" based on "The Story of Yingying" by Yuan Zhen in the Tang Dynasty and "The Legend of the West Chamber" by Dong Xieyuan in the Jin Dynasty. The story takes place "more than ten miles east of Puzhi, there is a monk's house called Pujiu Temple". "Dong Xixiang" changed "The Story of Yingying" into a happy ending, and Wang Shifu compiled "Cui Yingying's Tale of the West Chamber" based on "Dong Xixiang". Wang Shifu is a native of Beijing, and his hometown is Zhongshan Prefecture. Zhongshan Mansion is the ancient Zhongshan State, now Dingxing near Baoding, Hebei. Wang Shifu used to be a county magistrate in Puzhou, but he resigned and returned to his hometown because he was not good at officialdom. When he was in his hometown, he still missed the style of Puzhou when he was sitting in the hall, so he adapted the work of his predecessors into "Cui Yingying's Story of the West Chamber". When Wang Shifu wrote "The Romance of the West Chamber", it was probably during the Dade period of the Yuan Dynasty, that is, from 1297 to 1307 A.D., that is to say, the Pujiu Temple was still alive at this time. According to the record of meritorious deeds excavated in the temple, there was a reconstruction in the 43rd year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty, which was 1564 AD. The Pujiu Temple I see now was rebuilt in 1986. When it was rebuilt, only the Tang Pagoda was still there, and the temple was gone. Where did the blueprint for reconstruction come from? The temple didn't say it, and it is estimated that it is in accordance with the custom, not necessarily the original state.
Once you enter the mountain gate, you have to climb the mountain, and the bell tower is on the mountain.
There really is a clock in the bell tower.
Suddenly found that the bell tower is on the middle road of the temple, which is very strange. He occupies the middle lane, what about the Drum Tower? It turns out that the Drum Tower is on the second floor of the Bell Tower.
Since there is a Tang Pagoda in this temple, it must be to see the pagoda first. This is a four-sided brick pagoda, sitting on a three-foot blue brick pagoda base, with a circle of white marble railings on the pagoda base, and white marble handrails on the front and back.
Look up hard to see the middle of the tower.
Lie on the ground to see the top floor of the tower.
Good guy, this tower is thirteen stories high! These are the two seven-level pagodas! Moreover, the outer contour of the tower is an arc, which is the shape of the brick tower in the Tang Dynasty. Each floor is stacked with astringent eaves, which does not imitate wooden bucket arches. There are arches in each direction on each floor, some are false doors, and some are real doors that can transmit light.
Go back along the platform.
There is no door at the back, but there is a drain hole. Is there a toilet inside?
Turned around and came back and found that the tower is quite new. According to the records of meritorious deeds in front of the pagoda, the original stupa of the Tang Dynasty had only seven floors. It was destroyed by the Guanzhong Earthquake in the 34th year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty (AD 1556). It is said that the earthquake was as severe as magnitude eight. It was rebuilt in the 42nd year of Jiajing (1563), and it was raised to thirteen floors when it was rebuilt, but it was still in accordance with the style of the Tang Dynasty. It turns out that the relics in the pagoda are missing. It is not known whether they were lost in the earthquake or rebuilt, or there may be no relics at all.
Entering the front yard from the Bell and Drum Tower, there is a circle of verandas in this yard, which was rebuilt according to the style of the Tang Dynasty.
Because the story of The West Chamber happened here, most of the tourists in the temple are "birds in pairs on the tree", but there are also lone rangers. Look at the one below, with "Don't bother me" written on the back, it seems that the relationship is different.
Romance of the West Chamber talks about the love between men and women, but there are also two heroes of Brokeback Mountain who visit Pujiu Temple together, so it should not hinder it.
The main hall of the temple is of course the Daxiong Hall, which was rebuilt on the original site in 1987, with three new things inside and out. There are three Buddha statues inside, which were dug out of the foundation during the reconstruction, and it is said that they are from the Northern and Southern Dynasties. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Yu Wenyong, Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, once did the extermination of Buddhism, and then in the Tang Dynasty there was another disaster in Huichang. These three Buddha statues are likely to be buried in the event of extermination of Buddha that year. If the Buddha statues in the Daxiong Hall are from the Southern and Northern Dynasties, then the aforementioned Pujiu Temple was built during Wu Zetian's period, which should be a reconstruction, pushing the history of Pujiu Temple forward for more than a hundred years. Empress Wu Zetian worshiped Buddha, and the reconstruction in the Tang Dynasty may be very large-scale, and a tower was built. The current Pujiu Temple is reconstructed according to the layout described in "The Romance of the West Chamber", and the architectural form is not necessarily what Wang Shifu saw.
The story of "The Story of the West Chamber" tells that during the Zhenguan period of the Tang Dynasty, Cui Xiangguo died of illness. His wife Zheng took her daughter Yingying, son Huanlang and maid matchmaker to help her coffin back to her hometown. The temple let them live in the Ewha Garden on East Road.
The old lady lives in the north room, Yingying and the matchmaker live in the west room, and Huan Lang lives in the east room.
At this time, Zhang Gong, a scholar from Henan, went to Chang'an to take the exam, passing through Hezhong Mansion, and visited his friend General Baima by the way. When Zhang Sheng was visiting Pujiu Temple, he ran into Cui Yingying, and it was love at first sight, and he decided to pursue her. Examinee Zhang ignored the matter of rushing for the exam and found the abbot to borrow him. The old monk arranged Zhang Sheng to live in Xixuan on the West Road. In the play, it is said that there is only one wall between Xixuan and Yingying's west wing, but now the distance here is more than one wall.
Zhang Sheng and Yingying exchanged poems across the wall, and then exchanged glances at Cui Xiangguo's Chaodu Dojo, and it was good. Sun Feihu, the rebel general outside, heard that Cui Xiangguo's daughter lived in the temple, so he surrounded the temple gate with a group of soldiers and asked the old monk to hand over the young lady for him to marry. The old lady said that whoever can get rid of the thief will marry her daughter. Zhang Sheng stepped forward and wrote a letter to General Baima. General Baima led his troops to capture the thief. Zhang Sheng invited the old lady and the abbot to watch the battle on the drum tower. He saw General Baima defeat Feihu and capture him alive. Zhang Sheng made great achievements in defeating the enemy, so he was promoted to live in an academy on the East Road.
The old lady offered wine to thank Zhang Sheng, but she reneged on the engagement.
As soon as Zhang Sheng heard that the marriage contract had changed, his vision became dark and he fell ill. At this time, the matchmaker who was pulling the strings began to work. She gave Zhang Sheng an idea to let Zhang Sheng play the piano, so that Yingying could meet Yingying with the sound of the piano. Zhang Sheng really played the piano, and Yingying hid behind the Taihu stone to enjoy it.
Yingying ordered the matchmaker to send letters back and forth, and wrote to Zhang Sheng, "Under the moon and the western chamber, the windward house is half open. The shadows of the flowers on the other side of the wall are moving, and it is suspected that the jade man has come."
Zhang Sheng read the letter and knew that Yingying wanted to see him. He went into the bamboo forest after dark.
After climbing over the wall, Yingying was waiting by the Taihu Stone, and the two of them swayed there, because there was a matchmaker present, so it was not easy to get angry.
In the middle of the night, Yingying secretly came to Zhang Sheng's room, and the two made a private decision for life. The old lady noticed that her daughter was abnormal, so she arrested the matchmaker and tortured her.
In order to please the old lady, Zhang Sheng also offered to teach English to Huan Lang for free.
With everyone's joint efforts, the old lady finally agreed to the marriage between Zhang Sheng and Yingying, on the premise that Zhang Sheng has to take the Beijing exam, and if he passes the exam, he can marry Yingying. This candidate was originally going to Beijing to rush for the exam, so he went back on the road to continue his journey. The imperial examinations in the Tang Dynasty were first prefectural and county examinations, which were equivalent to the later township examinations; those who passed the exams went to the imperial court to take the examinations, which were equivalent to the later general examinations and palace examinations. The Tang Dynasty implemented a government of three provinces and six ministries, namely the Zhongshu Province, Menxia Province, and Shangshu Province. The Shangshu Province was in charge of the imperial examinations. At the beginning, it was the Ministry of Officials of Shangshu Province, which was the Ministry of Organization; later, the Ministry of Rites was in charge, and the Ministry of Rites was responsible for etiquette and tribute. Zhang Sheng went to Beijing to rush for the exam, which meant that he had passed the prefecture and county selection, and could go to the "provincial exam" held by Shangshu Province, which is the national exam. This student Zhang is very good. Not only did he pass the provincial examination, he even got the first place in the provincial examination, the champion. Zhang Sheng won the first prize in the examination and hurried back to Pujiu Temple to marry Yingying. After a little trouble, General Baima came to help, and finally Zhang Sheng Yingying got married. Wang Shifu adopted the ending of Dong Jieyuan's "Romance of the West Chamber" in "Cui Yingying's Tale of the West Chamber", which is the Urwala reunion that Chinese old ladies must have when listening to an opera.
Those houses and the wax figures in the houses are all based on "The Romance of the West Chamber", which is somewhat suspected of being a gimmick. The buildings that the temple should have are placed in a secondary position. Go to the easternmost side road and find a very large building.
When I walked to the front, I saw that it was actually a Buddhist scripture building.
In front of the scripture building is the Amitabha Hall.
The incense burner on the altar table was very suspicious. When I stepped forward to see it, it had the words "Weiduo Temple" on it.
Where is the Wei Tuo Temple? I don't know, it has not been rebuilt, it must be the West Chamber building that occupied the place of Wei Tuo Hall.
In addition to Pujiu Temple, there is another historic site rebuilt in Yongji, which is the Guanque Tower.
The one above is not the real statue of Guanque Tower, but the mountain gate of Guanque Tower Park. The plaque "Stork Garden" on the gate was inscribed by Mr. Qi Gong. Although it is not far from Pujiu Temple to Guanque Tower, it still has to cross the entire territory of Puzhou City in ancient times. Of course, the city of Puzhou has been destroyed, and there are not many traces of the city walls. Now it is preparing to rebuild a certain city gate.
"The sun is at the end of the mountain, and the Yellow River flows into the sea. If you want to see a thousand miles, go to a higher level."
This is a five-character quatrain written by Wang Zhihuan, a poet in the heyday of Tang Dynasty. Wang Zhihuan is from Jimen, where is Jimen? Just opposite the gate of Beijing Film Academy, Jimen Yanshu. Haha, in fact, Jimen in the Tang Dynasty refers to Jimen Pass, which is now Jizhou County, Tianjin. Wang Zhihuan's "Five Absolutes" is not only well known in China, but also known by many literary youths in foreign countries. But many people don't remember that it was written by Wang Zhihuan, and it was titled "Climbing the Stork Tower".
I also know Guanque Tower from this poem. After visiting Pujiu Temple, I bought a bowl of Yingying Wontons at the entrance and ate them. During the dinner, the waiter said there was a Stork Tower over there. Although Yingying is the daughter of Xiangguo, the wontons passed down by her are really not as delicious as Hongniang dumplings. After eating the bowl of Just so so wontons, I quickly called a car and went to Guanque Tower.
It is said that the Guanque Tower was built in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, which is the pavilion 1,500 years ago. The local people said that the Guanque Tower was originally a gun tower, and later it was changed into a building. If you think about it carefully, you are right. At the end of the Northern Wei Dynasty, Yu Wentai and Gao Huan split the Northern Wei Dynasty into the Eastern and Western Wei, and then they fought on both sides of the Yellow River. Gao Huan led the army of the Eastern Wei Dynasty to attack Yuwentai's Western Wei Dynasty to the west, and was defeated by Yuwentai every time. Later, Gao Huan waited for the Yellow River to freeze in winter and went to fight Yuwentai again, but he still couldn't fight. Yong, the son of Yuwen Tai, built the Northern Zhou Dynasty, and Gao Huan and Sun Wei built the Northern Qi Dynasty. In the end, Yu Wenyong, Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, crossed the Yellow River eastward around winter and defeated Gao Wei, the empress of the Northern Qi Dynasty, and unified northern China. Therefore, when the East and West Weis clamored across the river, it must be right for Eastern Wei Gaohuan to build a gun tower here. After Yuwen Yongduhe defeated the Qi army in ancient Pingyao in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, it must have been right to transform the gun tower into a stork tower to commemorate the victory of the war. However, "Puzhou Fu Zhi" said that the Guanque Tower was built by Yu Wenhu, who was Yu Wentai's nephew. Yu Wenhu's battle with the Northern Qi Dynasty has always been a strategic defense, and it was Yu Wenyong who actually crossed the Yellow River and launched a strategic offensive. However, when Yu Wenyong crossed the Yellow River east, Yu Wenhu was still there.
The Guanque Tower is located in the Central Plains and to the west of the ancient city of Puzhou. It has been a famous tourist attraction since ancient times. Scholars of all dynasties would go there to watch the river. Therefore, the Guanque Tower, together with the Yellow Crane Tower, Yueyang Tower and Tengwang Pavilion, is known as the four famous ancient buildings. What these four famous buildings have in common is that they can climb up to see the water. The Guanque Tower has always been the most famous tall building in the north from the Northern Zhou Dynasty to the Jin Dynasty. In the first year of Yuanguang (1222) of Emperor Xuanzong Wanyanxun of the Jin Dynasty, the Mongolian army and the Jin army fought in Pucheng. The Yuan army surrounded the Jin army in the city and set fire to the Guanque Tower. There is a record that "burn the tower, oars, and the fire shines on the city". After that, the Guanque Tower was destroyed, Jin Xuanzong died two years later, and the Jin Dynasty died 10 years later. Since then, there are only remains of the base of the Guanque Tower. From the Yuan Dynasty to the 2nd year of the Yuan Dynasty (1272), the poet Wang Yun once recorded his feeling of visiting the Guanque Tower. The majesty and the victory of clouds and smoke are not different from the past." In the Ming Dynasty, due to the changing course of the Yellow River, the Guanque Tower did not even have the remains of its base. Later, the gate tower of Puzhou West City was regarded as the Stork Tower, and there was a saying that "the rivers and mountains only love people to swim, and the long and long rounds are flowing in the evening. The poems and lines of thousands of miles are good, and they are reflected in the west tower today."
In 1992, many literati jointly proposed to rebuild the Guanque Tower. In 1997, the reconstruction started at the current location, and it was completed in 2002.
This Guanque Tower is imitated according to the pictures of the Tang Dynasty, so it is a Tang Dynasty style pavilion, facing south from the north. From the outside, there are three floors in total, but in fact there is a dark building between each floor. In the Northern Song Dynasty, Shen Kuo once wrote in "Mengxi Bi Tan" that "the third floor of the Guanque Tower in the mansion in the middle of the river looks forward to the middle strip and overlooks the big river below." Those two huge fin-shaped owl tails illustrate its age, which is Han and Tang style. The first floor is the same as the third floor. The square is seven rooms wide, with eaves and corridors on the outside, and open halls on all sides to go out of the building. The building is also a single-eave Xieshan top. The second floor in the middle is as big as the first floor, and there is no outer eaves; the third floor is based on the second floor, so the eaves outside the building are as large as the first floor. There is a circle of flat seat railings. The overall effect is that the building is particularly large. Its platform base is also very large, at least 2 feet high; the platform base is also square, with protruding sides on all sides. There is a circle of granite railings on the platform base, with auspicious pattern reliefs on the railings, and cloud pattern reliefs on the pillars.
Take a look at one floor.
It turned out that there was a five-foot-high pedestal on top of the platform. On the eaves pillars are double-layered horizontal beams, and the brackets on the capitals of the pillars are frighteningly large, all of which are characteristics of the Han and Tang Dynasties. The horizontal plaque of "Wen Cui Li Tang" hanging on the forehead was inscribed by Mr. Shen Peng, the former chairman of the Chinese Calligraphers Association.
Looking at the upper floor, the structure under the eaves of each floor is the same.
Look at the eaves and open hall on the first floor, it is very spacious. Thick eaves columns, granite lotus bases, and marble floors.
Look at the interior, a circle of Tongtian pillars with the same specifications as the eaves pillars.
Looking up, you can see a dark building. The above is the ceiling of Pingqi, and the paintings on Liang Fang are all patterns of auspicious clouds, lotuses and seals.
The building still looks quite impressive. Such a beautiful Guanque Tower, of course, will inevitably attract bees and butterflies. No, there are beauties in the Tang Dynasty holding up beats to beat bees and butterflies.
I think the reconstruction of this Guanque Tower is quite successful, at least it is still in the style of Han and Tang Dynasties, and it is on a large scale. During the Han and Tang Dynasties, all the buildings related to the royal family were very large, and such a large-scale building should also be suitable for Yu Wenyong, Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty. There are many historical sites in Shanxi, and these historical sites are quite culturally connotative, but it is a pity that Shanxi still does not pay enough attention to publicity and does not invest enough resources. Not to mention anything else, this Guanque Tower is not as famous as the other three of the four famous buildings. In fact, this building is the tallest of the four. If it is because the Guanque Tower is newly built, Shanxi is embarrassed to publicize it; then the other buildings are constantly being renovated and rebuilt? Even the Tiananmen Gate Tower has been rebuilt. Yellow Crane Tower is named after Cui Hao's "Yellow Crane Tower", Yueyang Tower is named after Fan Zhongyan's "Yueyang Tower", and Tengwang Pavilion is named after Wang Bo's "Preface to Tengwang Pavilion". Isn't "Climbing the Stork Tower" amazing?
Yes, after a trip to Yongji, I saw two literary and artistic scenes of Pujiu Temple and Guanque Tower. This kind of literary and artistic scenery can't just punch in and leave, it must linger for a while, sigh twice, and stop three times. After these three things have been implemented, continue to go north.
