Weizhou: the thousand-year loneliness of the "capital" of the Dai Dynasty
According to the travel plan, today we will go from Hunyuan, where the Xuankong Temple is located, to Nuanquan Ancient Town in Yuxian County. Nuanquan is a famous ancient town with rich tourism resources. Its "Nuanquan Fortress" is a typical representative of the ancient plains resisting nomads. , there are a large number of well-preserved ancient buildings such as ancient theater buildings, ancient castles, and ancient houses since the Ming Dynasty. Sushehuo, Beiden Mountain, Shadow Puppetry, Weizhou Yangko, etc. have all been listed as national and provincial intangible cultural heritage lists. Judging from the online reviews and the travel notes and pictures of tourists who have been there, it is worth visiting here!
Unexpectedly, the road from Shanxi to Hebei was not easy. The distance of less than 100 kilometers was less than four or five hours. In the evening, I finally entered the warm spring!
Nuanquan is a well-preserved famous ancient town, but due to other reasons, we were not able to play in depth, but went directly to the ancient city of Yu County.
The 25-kilometer road from Nuanquan to Yuxian County is within a blink of an eye. There are a large number of ancient buildings in Yuxian County, ancient city walls and gates, ancient temple towers, and ancient architectural designs with different styles. It is still worthwhile to visit!
Yuxian County was a big place in ancient times. Yuxian County was called Weizhou in ancient times. It is one of the sixteen prefectures of Yanyun and the best preserved ancient city west of Beijing. As early as in the Yin and Shang Dynasties, Yuxian County was called Daiguo (the capital is now Daiwangcheng, and there is Daiwangcheng Town 30 kilometers away from Yuxian County), which belonged to Jizhou; during the Warring States Period, it was the Daijun of Zhao State; Counties and counties, Yuxian County is called Daijun; during the period of Emperor Gaozu of the Western Han Dynasty, Daiguo was set up, and the famous Emperor Wen of Han was granted the title of Daiwang. In the second year of Daxiang in the Northern Zhou Dynasty (580), Weizhou was established and the city of Weizhou was built, and the name of Weizhou began from then on. Since then, Yuxian County has always existed as the seat of Yuzhou, a border military town, in all dynasties, until 1913 when Yuzhou was abolished and Yuxian County was established until today.
Yu County has too many glorious histories and too many great figures. It is hard to imagine its high status in the cold weapon era. It used to be equal to or even higher than Datong in several dynasties for hundreds of years. In the Ming Dynasty, the military generals it garrisoned were at least at the level of members of the Military Commission today, which shows the value of Weizhou in ancient China.
Speaking of the famous people in Yuxian County, besides Liu Heng, Emperor Wen of the Han Dynasty, who made his fortune from Daijun, Li Guang, the parachutist of the same period, also often "leaved Daijun" to attack the Huns in the north; also, "Chijie Yunzhong, when will Feng Tang be dispatched?" In the Ming Dynasty, Wang Zhen, the great eunuch who caused the only unified emperor of the Central Plains Dynasty to be captured by a minority in the "Tumu Fortress Change", was also from Yu County...
The long history has left a large number of cultural landscapes for Yu County. There are more than 1,610 cultural relics in the county, including 21 national-level protection units including Yuhuang Pavilion, Lingyan Temple, Nan'an Temple Pagoda, Sakyamuni Temple, Daiwang City Site, and Han Tombs, and 32 provincial-level protection units. , with 25 county protections, is the country's largest county with national protection of cultural relics. There are more than 5,600 pieces of cultural relics in Yuxian Museum, together with the ruins of Daiwangcheng, a state-level protection unit around the county, the rare Chongtai Temple that integrates the cultures of the three religions, the well-preserved academy of Wang Min, Shangshu of the Ministry of Industry in the Yuan Dynasty, and all over the country. The county's ancient castles, ancient dwellings, and ancient theater buildings constitute the extremely rich historical and cultural heritage of Yuxian County. There are legends of 800 ancient castles, 800 theater buildings, and 800 temples, and it has also won the title of "Museum on the Ground". reputation.
The county seat of Yuxian County is not too big, and there are no overly tall buildings, so before arriving at the county seat, I saw its landmark Nan'an Temple Pagoda and Wanshan Tower on the south city wall. Driving carefully through the dense crowd and the disorderly traffic flow composed of cars, trucks, tricycles, electric vehicles, bicycles, etc., patiently lined up to pass through the south gate that existed in the Ming Dynasty. It’s better, we didn’t realize until we arrived that it was actually no different from outside the city gate. Because of this, we found a place to park and walked around Weizhou.
Not far from the west side of the south gate of Yuxian County is a large group of ancient buildings. The locals said that that place was part of the ancient city of Yuzhou built around 1997. However, it is said to be newly built, and there are also many very old buildings. There's a lot to watch too! Among the buildings in this area, the largest one is the Weizhou Administration. Although it is newly built, it is also worth visiting because it was restored according to historical records. The magnificent Weizhou government office can feel the glory of the year. After all, it was a "big city" at that time. The office location of the chief executive is different. The majesty, grandeur, luxury and style are definitely worthy of the title of the capital of the frontier.
Weizhou is located in a remote place, coupled with the fact that there are few tourists at this time, the few of us have become the only group of tourists in the Weizhou Department. However, there are fewer people and fewer people. Don't worry about others blocking your sight, just play to your heart's content, beat the grievance drum, pat the gavel, play the killing stick, and be the master of the magistrate! Although there are few people, they still have a good time playing, which is called "exciting"!
There are two "National Treasure Units" opposite the Weizhou Administration, one is the Sakyamuni Temple in Yuxian County built in the Yuan Dynasty, and the other is the Nan'an Temple Pagoda in Yuxian County built in the Northern Wei Dynasty. Unfortunately, the Sakyamuni Temple is being renovated and is not open to the public, so the only way to go is to appreciate the Nan'an Temple Pagoda!
It may be due to the poverty of Yuxian County. Such a national treasure unit is placed as a "big treasure" in any place, but it looks very "shabby". The temple is gone, and only a place the size of the yard of an ordinary farmer's house is preserved to protect the pagoda, which can accommodate a dozen tourists at most. This may also be the smallest "national treasure unit" I have seen so far! Although simpler, Nan'an Temple Pagoda still has the style of "National Treasure"! That kind of exquisiteness, that kind of grand atmosphere, that kind of vicissitudes of life, only this tower can match!
The weathered and mottled base boulder has witnessed the vicissitudes of the millennium
Taking a closer look at the Nan'an Temple Pagoda, the huge base has been weathered into disrepair. Although the stones several meters long are still inlaid in it, they are also mottled. If the cement has not thickened due to protection and entered the stone gaps, I am really worried that one day it will be broken. ! However, this also confirms the treasure of this object: a genuine thousand-year-old cultural relic!
According to the data, the Pagoda of Nan'an Temple is a solid octagonal brick pagoda with thirteen stories and dense eaves. It is about 32 meters high. The base of the pagoda is made of stone strips in the form of Xumizuo, 2.5 meters high, and a brick pagoda is placed on it. The base of the pagoda is octagonal, with animal heads carved on the east, west, north, south, and north sides, and the seal characters "Fu and Lu" on the other four sides. There are brick eaves on the base of the tower, and three weeks of raised lotus petals are built on the eaves, and the tower body is placed in the lotus petal seat. The eaves of the tower are retracted layer by layer, and the rate of retraction increases layer by layer, so that the outer contour of the tower presents a gentle rolling brake shape, and iron bells are hung on the octagonal eaves of each floor. When the breeze blows, the bells jingle, like high mountains and flowing water, the lingering sound is lingering and melodious.
Nan'an Temple and Pagoda were first built in the Northern Wei Dynasty, and were rebuilt in successive dynasties. When Yuzhou City was expanded in the Hongwu period of Ming Dynasty, because the south city wall passed through the middle of Nan'an Temple, the temple was demolished. "The temple was abandoned and only the pagoda remained." However, according to the structure and shape analysis of the Nan'an Temple Pagoda, the existing one should be a Liao Dynasty building. Although this pagoda has experienced the vicissitudes of life in the world, it has become a symbol of the ancient culture of Yu County.
Not far from Nan'an Temple Pagoda is the gate of Wanshan Building. It is said to be a gate, but it is actually very "pocket". It is a very small place to enter from the ticket gate. Fortunately, this place is only an entrance, and there is no value for staying , Going up the steps on the side, it suddenly became clear that a huge building flashed in front of you. This building is the top of the south gate of Weizhou Ancient City - Jingxian Gate, that is, Wanshan Tower.
Ancient city gates all had the function of fortifications, and Wanshan Tower is no exception. It is said to be a gate tower built on the city wall, but its structure is actually very complicated. Grand, with the three-story Wanshan Tower more than 20 meters high (the ancient buildings are taller than the modern ones) as the core, the surrounding defense system is very strict, and the width of the city wall is enough to drive two cars side by side. It is a moat with a width of several meters, and the river water is still very abundant.
The moat is full of water
Since Wanshan Tower is one of the two highest commanding heights in the ancient city of Weizhou (the other is the Yuhuang Pavilion on the North City Gate, also known as the Drum Tower), standing on the tower, you can have a bird's-eye view of the whole city and the enemy's situation. It is said that the original building of Wanshan Tower was destroyed by the war in 1947. The existing Jingxian Gate is the only surviving ancient building among the three gates of the ancient city of Weizhou. The Wanshan Tower on it was rebuilt in 1997. Ascending the tower, you can see the emerald green screen, and the mountains are endless, which is too beautiful to behold. Although the current city tower has lost its original military value, its remaining buildings, stories and legends are always worthy of our aftertaste.
Standing on the Wanshan Tower, you can have a panoramic view of Yuxian County
Yu County was an important barrier to the southwest of Beijing in ancient times. Its military role is not only reflected in various buildings, but also in its unique geographical environment. Yu County is located in the hinterland of the Taihang Mountains. The Taihang Mountains spanning several provinces from north to south have only 8 east-west exits. These exits are formed by rivers flowing out of the mountains in Shanxi, thus forming the Eight Xings of the Taihang, namely: Jundu Xing, Puyin Xing, Feihu Xing, Jingxing, Fukou Xing, Baixing, Taihang Xing, Zhiguan Xing, etc., within the jurisdiction of Yu County, there is Feihu Xing, one of the Taihang Eight Xings.
It is 15 kilometers south from the county seat to Feihukou, and 40 kilometers south to the Grand Canyon - Feihu Valley. Feihu Valley, commonly known as Beikou Valley, is located in Songjiazhuang Town, 13 kilometers south of Yu County, Zhangjiakou City, Hebei Province. The strange peaks on both sides of Feihu Valley rise steeply, and the strange rocks hang in the air, which is very impressive. The day we went was cloudy and rainy, and a heavy rain could strike at any time. give up? Thinking of running such a long way and finally getting here, I feel a little bit unwilling, so I just bite the bullet and enter Feihu Valley, at worst, if there is a heavy rain, I will turn around and come back urgently.
In fact, some scenic spots need to be experienced, and it is far better to practice than to listen to others. I did a lot of serious research on Feihu Valley before this trip, and it wasn’t until that day when I drove in that I realized what was meant by “risk”, what was called “odd”, and why it was called “Feihu Valley”!
From the moment we entered Feihu Valley, we proceeded cautiously with trepidation. This mountain road is built along the river valley, with strange rocks on both sides and shrouded in thick black clouds. You can't help but feel uneasy. On the way, the rain also happened unexpectedly, and many vehicles that came here turned around one after another. This also made me lose confidence. I was thinking, stick to it, isn’t it just 40 kilometers? The more I walked inside, the more uneasy I felt. The mountains and ridges were blocked, the road became narrower and narrower, and the two mountains above the head almost became a "line of sky". It should be no problem for the fox to fly across, right? Looking back, I also feel that there is no "way out" because the mountain is in power.
I think, in today's advanced technology and smooth roads, this Feihu Valley still feels difficult to walk. If it were placed in ancient times, how difficult would it be? If the two sides are at war, what kind of scene will it be if a tired army crossing this valley encounters an ambush waiting for work at a turning point? I really can't imagine!
At this time, the rain became more and more urgent, the road became more rugged, and the dark clouds above the head rolled more and more joyfully. The whole valley was already dark and had to turn on the lights. A downpour could "come down" at any time! Forget it, since you've experienced it, let's go back, shall we?
Looking at Weizhou from Beikou Valley
(Ming) Zeng Wan
Pimasang main road, lonely city desert shade.
The wind is high and the mouth of the valley is broken, and the water mark is deep when the stone bursts.
The wild pheasant holds the sour fruit, and the fox howls in the dusk forest.
The three-foot sword in the box, if you don't try it, the night will sink.
Wuzhou: Beacon smoke is a thing of the past, leaving lonely vicissitudes
The journey from Yuxian County to Xuanhua should have been very difficult in ancient times. Not only did it have to climb the Taihang Mountains, pass through various passes, but also cross many rivers. Even cavalry troops would need a few days to travel, let alone infantry. Today, the expressway extends in all directions, and it takes less than 2 hours to arrive. In the evening, we drove there. Compared with the previous counties in Hebei, Xuanhua looks magnificent, with tall city gates hidden in the bustling city, shining brightly under the night scene lighting. The wide streets and bright lights make this thousand-year-old city full of youth.
Qingyuan Building "Sound through the sky" night view
According to the data, the Xuanhua area has a long history. As early as the Xia and Shang Dynasties, Xuanhua belonged to Jizhou and Youzhou successively, and it was the northern border of Yan State in the Spring and Autumn Period. Because it is located in the transitional zone from the Inner Mongolia Plateau to the North China Plain, and is the hub connecting the north and the south, Xuanhua has always been a gathering place for ethnic minorities such as Han and Donghu. After Qin Shihuang unified China, he divided the world into 36 counties, and Xuanhua was still Shanggu County. The nineteenth son of Zhu Yuanzhang in the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Sui, was enfeoffed in Xuanhua, and he was also called King Gu in the name of the fiefdom. The name "Xuanhua" was first used in the Jin Dynasty. Later, the administrative system and name changed many times. It was used again in the 32nd year of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1693). In order to reform local taxation, Guo Shilong, the governor of Zhili, went to the imperial court and abolished it. The town guard and office of Xuanfu set up Xuanhuafu to command the three prefectures and eight counties. In order to show the meaning of "promoting the court's benevolent government and influencing the people of Li people", the name "Xuanhua" was requested to be named "Xuanhua", and it is still in use today.
Xuanhua was an important military town in the past dynasties. It was called "Shanggu County", "Guangning County", Wuzhou, Xuanfu, etc. in ancient times. In the Ming Dynasty, it was one of the nine towns. Because of its important geographical location and the largest number of troops stationed, it was known as "the first of the nine towns". Xuanhua used to be the political center of the west of Beijing, and the emperors of all dynasties often visited Xuanhua. According to legend, Li Guang, a famous general in the early Han Dynasty, set off from here to attack the Huns many times in the north; Anlu Mountain in the Tang Dynasty also took this place as the center to manage painstakingly, hoarding grain and grass, mobilizing horses and fighting hard, and finally using Xuanhua as the base to stir up the Tang Dynasty almost subjugated; Ming Wuzong Zhu Houzhao left many legends and stories in Xuanfu when he built the town and state mansion; Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty made seven northern tours and western expeditions to reorganize the army in Xuanhuafu; Erdan also once stationed troops in Xuanhua.
The military status and regional political center formed since ancient times make Xuanhua's urban construction full of ancient flavor. Three magnificent ancient buildings stand tall on the main axis of Xuanhua City, namely Qingyuan Building, Zhenshuo Building and Gongji Building. Qingyuan Tower, also known as Bell Tower, was first built in the 18th year of Chenghua in the Ming Dynasty (1482). It was approved by the State Council as a national key cultural relic protection unit in 1988. One of the buildings.
On the second floor of Qingyuan Building hangs a bronze bell cast in the 18th year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty. The bell is 2.5 meters high, 1.7 meters in diameter, weighs about ten thousand catties, and the sound of the bell is loud and loud, and its sound can be heard within a radius of 40 li. The four characters "Sound through the sky" on the plaque accurately describe the distance of the bell.
The coupon hole under the city platform is connected with the ancient street at that time, and an ancient rut more than 20 centimeters deep was left on the stone floor, recreating the prosperous scene of Xuanhua in those days when it traveled from south to north and was full of traffic. But today, it no longer has the function of city defense, and it has only become one of the scenic spots for tourists to pay tribute to.
Ruts in Louquan Cave, Qingyuan
"Standing on the frontier"
There are four symmetrical arched gates in the east, west, north, south, and left and right at the base of the Qingyuan Tower. The south and Changping, the north and Guangling, the east and Anding, and the west and Daxin are connected by four gates. There are 4 plaques hanging on the upper floor, which are called "Qingyuan Tower" in the south, "Sound through the sky" in the north, "Towering Yanjiang" in the east, and "Zhenjing border atmosphere" in the west. The building has a unique shape and an exquisite and rigorous structure, which is rare in China and is one of the exquisite art buildings in ancient my country.
Zhenshuo Tower, also known as Drum Tower. Located on the central axis of Xuanhua District in the ancient city, it echoes Gongji Building in the south and Qingyuan Building in the north, forming a unique and beautiful landscape of the ancient city Xuanhua. Zhenshuo Tower (Drum Tower) is the tallest and most magnificent ancient building in the ancient city of Xuanhua. It was built in the fifth year of Zhengtong in the Ming Dynasty (1440). It was approved by the State Council and announced as a national key cultural relics protection unit. The building is a wooden pavilion building with double eaves, nine ridges and gable roof tiles. It is majestic, simple and solemn.
There are two large wooden plaques on Zhenshuo Tower. One is the large plaque of "Zhenshuo Building" on the south side, which was copied as it was in 1987; the other is the large plaque of "Shenjing Pinghan" written by Emperor Qianlong of Emperor Gaozong of Qing Dynasty in 1745 when he visited the Saibei Mulan Paddock and passed Xuanhua. The north side of the sub-building implies that Xuanhua is the barrier of Beijing. The frame of the large plaque is carved with dragons flying in the clouds and going out to the sea in various shapes. The patterns are exquisite and the carving is fine. In addition, the four characters of "Shenjing Pinghan" are vigorous and powerful, which are integrated into one and have high artistic appreciation value.
Gongji Tower, commonly known as "South Gate Tower"
The Gongji Tower, commonly known as the South Gate Tower, is a part of Xuanhua's ancient city defense buildings. There are Yuecheng, Wengcheng and Guancheng outside. It is the only remaining city-related tower in the Xuanhua City Gate. When the State Council announced the sixth batch of national key cultural relics protection units in 2006, it combined Qingyuan Building, Zhenshuo Building and Gongji Building (including Xuanhua City Wall) into Xuanhua Ancient City.
Xuanhua is a famous historical and cultural city. There are currently three national key cultural relics protection units: Qingyuan Tower, Zhenshuo Tower and Liao Tomb murals, as well as the former site of the Democratic Government of Chahar Province, the former residence of General Zhang Zizhong, and the palace where Ciqing traveled westward. Today, Xuanhua belongs to a district of Zhangjiakou, but Zhangjiakou has always belonged to Wuzhou in history, and its military, historical and cultural status is second to none in Zhangjiakou.
Around Xuanhua, Xiongguan Pass, Weibao, and post stations such as Yehuling, Zijingguan, Tumu Fort, and Jiming Station jointly guard the safety of the capital. Yehu Ridge is located at the junction of Wanquan County and Zhangbei County in Zhangjiakou. It is actually a not too high mountain, neither steep nor difficult to climb. Now, it has almost no military value. Perhaps it takes less than 10 minutes for a tank to go from the bottom of the mountain to the top of the mountain. But in the era of cold weapons, it is still difficult to overcome. Due to the flat terrain, the cavalry on the top of the mountain can easily dive to the bottom of the mountain, and it is difficult for the infantry attacking upward to resist this impact.
The distance from Xuanhua to Yehuling is less than 100 kilometers. There are many mountain roads and rivers. According to historical records, it takes 3 days for the ancient cavalry troops. I thought it would take more than 1 hour to drive there. I didn’t expect that there are so many self-driving tours, plus this place It belongs to the core area of the Zhangbei Grassland, and there is also the capital of the Kingdom of Jin - the location of Zhongdu on the way. The entire high-speed road is also congested due to too many cars. I drove for nearly 4 hours with stop and go.
I was a little disappointed when I arrived at Yehuling Scenic Area. Yehuling is too flat. What makes me even more puzzled is that the main tourism brand of this scenic spot is a modern military open area, checkpoints, aircraft (decommissioned), cannons, tanks Seen everywhere, by accident, right? What's even more ridiculous is that ancient military fortresses and modern aircraft and cannons can't attract tourists. On the contrary, there are more than 100 acres of rapeseed flowers blooming in full bloom on the back mountain of Yehuling, which makes people very rare!
Wild Fox Ridge with gentle slope
However, since we are here, we still have to experience the style of Guguan Fortress! In fact, this place is still worth tasting! When you stand on the top of Yehuling and look around, you can still appreciate the importance of this place in the cold weapon era. The north of Yehuling is the endless Mongolian prairie, and the south is the relatively flat land of Yanbei. With the Great Wall fortifications here , Equipped with enough troops, making good use of passes, forts, river valleys, beacons, etc., can completely resist the cavalry of the grassland people, but once it falls, it may mean that Beijing is in danger.
wild fox ridge
According to historical records, the Mongolian army of the Yuan Dynasty defeated the powerful Jin army on this small hillside. In 1211, 100,000 Mongolian troops took advantage of the mistakes and carelessness of the Jin army to encircle and fight for aid, and defeated the Jin army with 300,000 people. And chased after the victory, and fought all the way to Beijing, the capital of the Kingdom of Jin. Therefore, if you look at the ancient fortress scenery from a modern perspective, if you don't understand the history of these places, it is difficult to appreciate the fun of travel!
Jiming Post: Shocking "World's No. 1 Post Office"
From Yehuling to the south along the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Expressway for about 120 kilometers, I arrived at another important destination of my Xuanhua trip-Jimingyi. I think I am familiar with history, and the post station will often appear in my mind. Because I didn’t know much about it before, I always thought that the post station was a resting place for passing news, and it was an official restaurant with fodder. In addition to exchanging documents, it is just to drink water and feed the hard-working war horses or replace the war horses. As for the scale, configuration, number of people, functions, etc. of the station, we really don't know much about it. When I arrived at Jiming Station, I just woke up like a dream! The real station is not what I imagined!
Shocking Jimingyi City Wall
Jiming Station City Gate
The arrow tower on the city wall of Jiming Station
To be honest, Jiming Station was beyond my expectation! When the navigation prompts me that Jiming Station is here, I am still looking for it, where is it? I think the post station in ancient times should be like the service area on our expressway today: stop, replenish water, eat, rest, and start again! It shouldn't be too big, right? At most, it looks like a bigger hotel, right? But the fact is that Jimingyi is a small city! The city is surrounded by walls that are more than ten meters high, just like the Great Wall, with crenels, beacon towers, archery towers, and even cannons! The entrance of Jiming Station is actually the city gate, and after entering, there is even an urn city!
Only after reading the information did I know that the Jiming Station belongs to a type of military station, which can be stationed. It is different from the "postal" station that transmits news. In the Ming Dynasty, there were many military stations of this size, and almost every province and every larger city would have one. Have! This is so insightful for me! After going in and visiting carefully, I found that the Jiming Station was configured according to the standards of ancient cities. Wells, even gardens, temples! It would be unbelievable if you hadn't been there in person!
Jiming Station got its name because it is backed by Jiming Mountain
According to the data, Jiming Station got its name because it is backed by Jiming Mountain. Jiming Post was first built in the Yuan Dynasty. In 1219 A.D., Genghis Khan led his troops to conquer the west, opened a post road on the road leading to the Western Regions, and set up "zhanchi" (post station in Mongolian transliteration). In the eighteenth year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty (1420 A.D.), Jiming Station was expanded to become the first station for Xuanhua Prefecture to enter the capital. There were post office, post warehouse, general office, mansion yard, horse number, etc. in the city. buildings, theaters and temples.
The development of the post post business has brought opportunities for various constructions of Jiming Post. The economy and culture are prosperous, and merchants gather. Every year, the Jiming Mountain Temple Fair from April 13th to 19th of the lunar calendar and the three market days of the 16th, 21st, and 26th of the twelfth lunar month are full of street vendors, singing temple operas, and the crowds are very lively. It was not until 1913 that the Beiyang government announced that it would "eliminate post stations and open postal services", and the ancient post station of Jiming Station completed its historical mission.
No matter from the perspective of tourism or cultural relics, Jimingyi, a well-preserved ancient city, still retains its original style and has extremely high historical value. Its city wall is basically intact except for a small part of the west city wall that collapsed in the middle; its city gate has high arches and wide gates, and the iron plates and nails on the gates are still firmly nailed to the gates; Many of the Buddhist and Taoist temples and other buildings of the post station in the city are still well preserved; the "Gongguanyuan", the posthouse, is a building of the Ming Dynasty, which is specially used for dining and accommodation of past officials and postmen. The wooden pin heads are exquisite in workmanship, and each wooden pin head is engraved with different images such as piano, chess, calligraphy, painting, lotus, lotus, bat, cicada, etc., which are lifelike, ingenious, and interesting, reflecting the superb craftsmanship of ancient Chinese craftsmen.
They are witnesses of history
Did the collapsed stables also neigh?
Today, Jiming Station still retains its appearance a hundred years ago. Except for some buildings that are being repaired, most of them are still "old objects": many courtyards are ruined, with decaying grass; some chai gates are lightly covered; It seems that the large-scale stables have collapsed... But these can't hide the fact that this is a real old city.
There are still many historical relics in Jiming Post. The most famous "Hejia Courtyard" was once the place where Empress Dowager Cixi and Emperor Guangxu fled and stayed when the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded Beijing. Up to now, there are still four regular script characters carved in bricks on the gable of the second entrance courtyard, "Hongxi Jiefu", as a commemoration of Empress Dowager Cixi's residence here; Taishan Temple, built in the 8th year of Shunzhi in the Qing Dynasty, has a history of more than 300 years , but the murals in the hall are still clearly visible. Unique eaves, gables, etc. If you look down from the East Gate Tower, you can see a 15-meter-wide avenue leading directly to the West Gate, straight and spacious, without any obstructions. It is conceivable that the postmen held torches at night, flying horses to pass on the post, pedestrians avoided, and shoppers left to wait for the urgent and spectacular scene.
The 50-cent stamp on the right is Jiming Station
Today, Jiming Station has been listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit. It is the largest existing ancient post station with the most complete functions in the country, and has been selected as one of the world's 100 endangered cultural sites. In August 1996, the Ministry of Posts and Telecommunications issued a set of two commemorative stamps "Ancient Post Station" to commemorate the 100th anniversary of China Post, one of which is Jiming Post.
Bauhinia Pass: The former dangerous pass has become ruins
Jiming Station travels less than 200 kilometers to the south and arrives at Zijingguan, the gateway to southwest Beijing. According to the navigation prompts, get off the Zhangshi Expressway and turn into the G112 National Highway. Within 10 minutes of driving, you will see a big mountain. There is a river that is not very wide in front of the mountain. Along the way, at the bridge head on the other side of the river, I stopped abruptly at an inconspicuous road sign. The road sign was a big stone with the words "Sixty-six Crossings" and the words "Bauhinia Pass" beside it. And on the left side of the bridge near the gable stands a stone tablet "The Great Wall". It turns out that this seemingly inconspicuous place is really the Bauhinia Pass! Needless to say, the mountain here is the Taihang Mountain, and this river is actually the famous Juma River in history! I searched online on my mobile phone and learned that Liushiliudu is the 66th ferry crossing from west to east for the Juma River to leave the Taihang Mountains.
According to the data, Zijingguan is located in Zijingling, a low mountain on the east side of the northern section of Taihang Mountains. To the west is the vast Taihang stretching on the borders of Shanxi and Hebei, and to the east is the vast North China Plain, where the Juma River flows from the Taihang Mountains through the Bauhinia Ridge. Back then, the Yanhe Valley Road in the upper reaches of the Juma River was the only way for the local area to enter the interior of the Taihang Mountains—Puyin Xing, the seventh of the so-called Taihang Eight Xings.
Zijing Pass is one of the longest-historical ones among the thousands of dangerous passes on the Great Wall, and it has an important position in the history of ancient Chinese warfare. In history, there were "Shanggu Pass" (Qin and Han Dynasty), "Wuruan Pass" (Eastern Han Dynasty), and "Puyin Path" and "Zizhuang Pass". It was renamed "Jinpo Pass" in Liao and Song Dynasties. Because the bauhinia on the mountain is in full bloom, it was named Zijingguan by the people at that time and it has been used until now. In the Ming Dynasty, Juyongguan, Zijingguan, and Daomaguan along the 1st Route of the Inner Great Wall in Hebei Province today were regarded as the "Three Inner Passes".
Because of its dangerous terrain, Zijingguan has been one of the important gates of the North China Plain since ancient times, and it has been a battleground for military strategists. There have been more than 140 wars at Zijingguan in history, the most famous of which was in the first year of Jin Zhenyou (1213 A.D.) Genghis Khan failed to attack Juyongguan and divided his troops to defeat Jinbing at Zijingguan. In the 14th year of Ming Zhengtong (AD 1449), after the change of Tumubao, the Mongolian Oala tribe broke through the Zijing Pass and marched towards Beijing. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Li Zicheng commanded troops to Beijing, and the Boxers and Eight-Power Allied Forces in the Qing Dynasty fought bloody battles here. During the Anti-Japanese War, Lieutenant General Abe Yuxiu, the commander-in-chief of the Mengjiang garrison of the Japanese army in Zhangjiakou, was shot dead by the Eighth Route Army in Huangtuling, south of Zijingguan. Even in modern times, Zijingguan is still an important traffic channel between Hebei and Shanxi.
It is said that Zijingguan has 9 city gates and 4 water gates. The inner and outer cities are connected, and the city gates are ringed. But now most of them have disappeared. Today's Guancheng covers an area of about 3 square kilometers and is now the seat of Zijingguan Town Government. With the Zhenwu Mountain in the city as the center, the city wall undulates against the mountain and extends to the outside, forming four irregular city circles, with a big city surrounded by a small city. If you stand at a high altitude and overlook Guancheng, it looks like a plum blossom. This kind of layout built along the mountain can echo each other during combat, and each city circle can fight independently, forming its own defense system, which has high military value.
The existing city wall in Guancheng is about 12,000 meters long, and three city gates, three water gates and two watchtowers are still preserved. However, only the North City Gate remains basically intact. The North Gate of Zijingguan was built on the south bank of the Juma River Valley, facing east from west, and it is still well preserved. Although there is only one lonely city gate, the mottled walls, the deformed bluestones that have been stepped on, etc., seem to be telling its former glory. Standing on Guancheng, the Great Wall on the south side of the mountain winds and stretches into the distance; although the Juma River on the north side is wide, it is no longer turbulent. Like an octogenarian old woman silently interpreting the absence of youth, the defeated Bauhinia Pass can't help but make people sigh!
It is this Juma River. The Northern Expedition of Yongxi in the Northern Song Dynasty caused a generation of famous generals Cao Bin to fall from the altar. He who once destroyed Houshu, flattened the Southern Tang Dynasty, and captured Li Yu, the "Cizong" emperor, died in the third year of Yongxi (986) Leading an army of 170,000, he was besieged by the Khitan (Liao) on the Juma River, which is less than 50 kilometers away from Zijingguan. He was desperate and led a few followers to sneak across the river overnight, leaving the army without a boat and without a commander. Let the Liao army slaughter!
Surrounding this river, there have been so many wars in history, how many wives and children have been separated, how many successes and fames have been achieved, and how many ruins have been ruined! But today, it has become a thing of the past. The river is still the same river, and the pass is still the same pass. It’s just that time changes and people change. Perhaps, this is history!
In one week, more than 2,000 kilometers of travel, in addition to Beijing and Tianjin (most of them have been there before), we visited 9 of the sixteen prefectures of Yanyun during this trip. This trip is not only a cultural trip, but also a historical trip , is a spiritual journey! It is true that the line of the Yanyun sixteen prefectures used its unique geographical advantages to protect the Central Plains Dynasty from being invaded in the cold weapon era. Of course, in ancient times when there were no aircraft and cannons, the rivers, mountain passes, canyons, and high mountains in these counties were enough to stop the northern cavalry from being crushed. Unfortunately, at the end of the Tang Dynasty, Shi Jingtang handed him over, and the Han people lost their barrier against the north. , causing the "Sword of Damocles" to hang helplessly above his head. However, from the perspective of the great history of the Chinese nation, the loss of the sixteen prefectures has actually promoted national integration and cultural diversity, which cannot be said to be a bad thing.
Along the way, the winding scenery of the sixteen prefectures of Yanyun, the dangerous terrain, and the historical legends and influential figures surrounding these places are really touching, just like the chairman's poem: "There are so many beautiful mountains and rivers that attract countless heroes!"
Today, the sixteen prefectures of Yanyun, which used to be golden and iron horses, are no longer beautiful. These famous passes that attracted attention in the past because of their dangerous terrain are pale and powerless in today's modernization. Expressways extending in all directions can quickly reach any place. The legend of "one man guards the gate, ten thousand men cannot open it" can only be a joke in the eyes of modern artillery, missiles and other hot weapons. It is precisely because of this that these places seem lonely and desolate. It can only be said that the past page has been turned. A new history is underway.
However, when the flames are gone and the flames are extinguished, we should not forget the stories of the sixteen prefectures of Yanyun. Those heroes who fought against the alien invasion for the sake of national security should always remember their patriotism in their hearts. , national integrity, and the spirit of standing up when the country and the nation are in crisis are always worthy of admiration and inheritance from generation to generation!
I think that is the meaning of traveling, learning from playing and understanding from learning, isn't it?
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