When we go south along the Hengduan Mountains and enter the dangerous peaks of Gaoligong Mountains, when we cross the pass, we will suddenly see a peach blossom-like green brick and tile house in the Tengchong dam. The aroma of rice, the fragrance of rice flowers.
Xu Xiake has traveled all his life, and Tengchong is the farthest place in the west he has ever been to. When he climbed over the majestic Gaoligong Mountain, passed countless border guard posts, and finally came to Tengyue (the ancient name of Tengchong County), he saw a bustling scene and couldn't help feeling: "There is nothing in this city in the west (western Yunnan)."
Some people say that if Tengchong County was not destroyed by war, its beauty would not be inferior to that of Dali, Lijiang and other ancient cities. Today's Tengchong is a new city. Every year from the end of February to the beginning of April, in Shaba Village, Jietou Town, Tengchong, 150,000 mu of rapeseed fields will form a golden ocean.
After the night rain, the morning mist pervades the vast sea of flowers, with villages and forests laid out in succession. The snow-capped Gaoligong Mountain is the most magnificent background of this picture.
Entering Tengchong County, you will see the huge slogan "Tengchong in the world, peace in the world". Going to Heshun Ancient Town, 3 kilometers west of the county seat, is a must-do for tourism in Tengchong.
Heshun is a famous hometown of overseas Chinese in Tengchong. There are tens of thousands of Heshun people living overseas, more than the local residents. Heshun was named Yangwendeng in ancient times, and it used to be the residence of the Wa people. It was named Heshun because of a small river passing by the village, and then it was renamed Heshun by literati and refined scholars to borrow the meaning of auspiciousness and wind blowing in a poem.
Heshun Ancient Town is located on a small plain among several volcanoes, surrounded by mountains and rivers. Smooth stone roads, quaint and quiet old houses, clear streams, and quiet nights without street lights make people feel the tranquility and serenity of life, as well as the green rice outside the ancient city and the leisurely egrets in the rice fields are so beautiful. reality.
The ancestors of the people in Heshun Township came from Baxian County in Sichuan, Yingtianfu in Nanjing, and Changshafu in Huguang, Hunan, around 1385 A.D. during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. It has a history of more than 600 years.
There is a nursery rhyme in Heshun: "Heshun Township, Township Shunhe River, the river passes in front of the temple. The water reflects the temple, the temple reflects the water, and the water flows from the temple." It is in such a warm and warm dam that the largest Han culture in the southwestern border was born." enclave".
The ancestors of the residents of Heshun first came here to shovel grass and build villages, garrison fields and guard the border. First there were the five surnames of Cun, Liu, Li, Yin, and Jia, and later the surnames of Zhang, Yang, Zhao, Xu, and Chuan entered. People with different surnames live here in separate clans, live in harmony, and pass it down from generation to generation.
Walking into Heshun, you will find that, surrounded by ancient volcanoes on all sides, thousands of characteristic dwellings sit side by side beside mountains and rivers, row upon row. The houses are dense and well arranged. A Sanhe River flows around the village, and two stone arch bridges connect the main roads inside and outside the village. All the roads in the village and even the field ridges outside the village are paved with stone strips, so there is no dust when it is sunny, and there is no mud when it rains.
The whole village is built on a hillside, and it is often necessary to go uphill and downhill when walking around, and the slope is not small, which feels like climbing a mountain. Many lanes are also a bit cramped due to the terrain, and the former residences of local celebrities and the ancestral halls of the eight surnames are located scattered in these streets.
Here, you can appreciate the verve of Huizhou architecture with white walls and black tiles, enjoy the beautiful scenery of small bridges and flowing water in ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River, and see architectural elements from the West and South Asia. The South Asian-style gate of the Cun's Ancestral Hall, the European-style windows of Ai Siqi's former residence, and the British ironwork of the "Wanlouzi" dwelling are all perfectly integrated with the ancient Yunnan dwellings such as "four-in-five patios, three rooms and one screen wall".
The Heshun Township Library is definitely a legend. In 1938, the Heshun Library had a collection of more than 30,000 volumes, surpassing the libraries of many cities and universities at that time. This village-level library with the longest history and the richest collection of books in the country, from the bookshelves to the lock on the door, the seal on the desk, the table clock and the iron fence on the second gate, were all purchased from Myanmar by Heshun overseas Chinese in the early days of its establishment. , full of vicissitudes of life.
The beauty of the small bookstore lies not only in its great fame and numerous works of celebrities, but also in its unique architectural style. The pointed eaves will not appear in ancient Chinese buildings. It has absorbed the design concept of Southeast Asia; the semi-circular doors and windows have a bit of European flavor; The refinement and elegance of the building.
A few years ago, in the first national selection of charming ancient towns in China hosted by CCTV, Cui Yongyuan spoke for Heshun Ancient Town and talked about some "disadvantages and weaknesses" of Heshun. For example, the history is too short - only more than 600 years; such as the population Not many, because it was opened more than 400 years ago, and most of the people went to Myanmar, and even went to Europe and the United States. These people brought back Roman clocks and Czech lampshades; The library, where I often go to read books, has become like this; there are also a few strange people in the village, some are philosophers, and some are called the Emerald King. In the end, Heshun Ancient Town was selected as the top ten charming ancient towns in China.
Maybe it's because we live in the southwest corner, or maybe it's because we came a little late and there weren't many tourists in the town. Occasionally, tourists pass by, but the locals don't care, and continue to do their own business. We wandered in these streets and courtyards, watching old people chatting in the courtyard, women washing and washing vegetables in the laundry kiosk, and young people riding motorcycles through the long corridors.
The essence of Heshun's charm is the ancient buildings and dwellings here. Each old big house has its own characteristics. There will be an old tree with a long history in the courtyard, coupled with ancient inlaid doors and windows and a simple big clock, the connotation and exquisiteness are amazing.
When walking through the archways in person, there is some majesty, some loneliness, and the vicissitudes of history are precipitated in the silence, which makes us really change quickly with time, so that the past and present of those ancient towns are constantly alive. If you are tired, sit on the side for a while, eat a bowl of Liangpi, etc. or baked cakes. If you are thirsty, you can sit in a cafe on the side of the road and enjoy a slow swim.
Before visiting Heshun, many people focus on its white walls and black tiles, small bridges and flowing water, and its leisurely environment, just like people who are on a blind date will first set their eyes on the appearance and clothing of the other party. But after going to Heshun, I realized that the charm of Heshun is really not in its appearance. When you walk into the remains of the large caravan in the border area, listen to the breath of Ai Siqi, and feel the strength of the anti-Japanese soldiers and civilians, Heshun will be beautiful and firm in you. Stand up in your heart.
Slowly walking out of the town, a long river flows around the countryside, a fresh pastoral painting jumps under the sunset. On the clear river, there is a small kiosk every other section, which is the laundry kiosk. It was built by docile men who were away from home for women who worked at home. Perhaps only those who have gone out for a long time and are concerned about their hometown have such thoughts.
Some people say that the beauty of travel lies not in the scenic spots and historic sites, but in being able to wander around for a period of time, walking around at will, dazed with nothing to do, or getting lost in the alleys, and seeing the local residents happy for something. This is what impresses me the most about Heshun.
Best tourist season: Heshun has a pleasant climate in four seasons and is suitable for traveling all year round. However, the gentle scenery in spring is particularly beautiful. The golden rapeseed flowers are particularly graceful against the backdrop of Huizhou-style buildings. In summer, the plateau is sunny but not very hot.
Transportation: Plane: There is a direct flight from Kunming to Tengchong, and the time is about 1 hour. It takes 15 minutes by car from Tengchong to reach Heshun, so the traffic is very convenient. Taxi: 4 kilometers from Tengchong County to Heshun, you can take a taxi, the price is 10 yuan. Others: There is a direct bus from Tengchong County to Heshun. Tour bus service is provided in Heshun Scenic Area, 10 yuan per person, round trip within the town.
Accommodation: To visit Heshun Ancient Town, it is recommended to stay at a local home. At the same time, you can visit the local houses and experience the feeling of "aboriginal people". We recommend Heshun Jingxinge B&B. The B&B is a Chinese-style wooden structure building with two floors above ground and one floor below ground. It has a quiet environment, convenient parking, complete service facilities, and complete supporting facilities. There are restaurants, wine cellars, music bars, chess and card rooms, bookstores, and fire pits.
Food: Tengchong food is unique in Yunnan, with the characteristics of oil but not greasy, hot and sour, fragrant and refreshing. The most famous special dishes are Dajiujia, bait bait cubes, large flakes, etc. The pot is also a representative of the flavor, which can be tasted in Tengchong Hotel. In addition, soy milk rice noodles, cold bean noodles, fire, hot and sour soup, green chili mixed with chicken fir, etc. are all delicious snacks worth trying. Tengchong dishes are slightly salty, friends with a bland taste can remind the chef to put less salt.