After breakfast, depart from Leiwuqi to today's destination Dingqing. The staff of the local Tourism Development Committee told us that the section of National Highway 317 we are currently taking is the worst road condition on the entire Sichuan-Tibet Northern Line. For a section of the road, the local area has no plans to continue to vigorously maintain and upgrade the road surface. What can be done now is to ensure the traffic, and then wait for the completion of the new bridge and tunnel. The muddy road we are walking on will officially become history. This reminds me of the first time I took the 318 Sichuan-Tibet South Line ten years ago. At that time, 318 was full of dangers everywhere, and I might have to wait in line for a whole day after passing through the mai. Now, the 318 National Highway has already become dangerous and open, and the road condition is good enough to catch up with the expressway, so that when I tell my friends who have walked through 318 in the past two years, when I told my life and death adventures on 318 in the past few years, They all agreed that I was bragging. The same is true for the 317 Northern Sichuan-Tibet Line. Although today’s journey is a bit bumpy, let’s go and cherish it. Maybe there will be no chance to experience this kind of road in the future.
Today's inspection itinerary is relatively simple, and the local department has not arranged any other things such as symposiums and research meetings. It only needs to be transferred from Leiwuqi to Dingqing County, so everyone unanimously decided to spend more free time in Zizhu Temple in the afternoon. some time. When we were still 20 to 30 kilometers away from Dingqing County, we turned left from the national road to Zizhu Temple. We thought it would be a long and difficult journey, but as soon as we turned around, we found a sign on the roadside showing the distance to Zizhu Temple. Zhu Temple is only ten kilometers away. The road to Zizhu Temple is basically dirt road and gravel road, but the road is not too dangerous. We arrived at the destination relatively smoothly. This is the first time I went to Zizhu Temple. I unconsciously put a veil of mystery on the Zizhu Temple. I thought the road was long and difficult, but I didn't expect it to be so simple. It was a bit unexpected.
The comrades of the temple management committee have been waiting for us at the viewing platform for a long time. He took us to climb the plank road of the viewing platform to find the best position to take a panoramic view of Zizhu Temple, and at the same time introduced Zizhu Temple and Yongzhong Bon Religion to us. The comrades of the temple management committee are Tibetans, and the Chinese is sometimes not very fluent. When he introduced that the Yongzhong Bon religion has a history of 9,000 years, and the history of Zizhu Temple has 3,000 years of written records. when. I thought it was a slip of the tongue, so I interrupted him politely: Although China claims to have five thousand years of history, the recorded history is only about three thousand years. Anyone who has studied history knows that the earliest Chinese history has a clear The date recorded in the year is 841 BC. Whether the Xia Dynasty existed in history is just wishful thinking of some people in China, and there is no physical or written basis. If according to you, the history and civilization of the Tibetan people are already earlier than that of China? Apparently, this is not the first time that the staff of the Temple Management Committee faced low-level questioning like me. They puffed up their chests and said: From the literal point of view, what you just said is true. earlier. Then he took out the mobile phone in his hand and picked out a few photos for us to see, proving that the Zizhu Temple has indeed been built for 3,000 years. As for the legend of the 9,000-year-old Yongzhong Bon religion, he just passed it by.
After taking the panoramic view of Zizhu Temple, the local staff led us into the interior of Zizhu Temple. Although Zizhu Temple has gained a lot of fame on the Internet in recent years, it is still open to tourists for free. When you are lucky, there will be monks who will give you free explanations. Before I came here, I couldn’t figure out a problem: In the hinterland of Tibet, where Tibetan Buddhism has spread so widely, how can there still be room for the oldest Yongzhong Bon religion in Tibet? How did Zizhu Temple survive for so many years? of? Religious factional disputes have always been life and death. After listening to the complete introduction of the history of Zizhu Temple and Yongzhong Bon religion by the resident monks in the temple, combined with the road conditions when we came, we came to such a conclusion: two or three thousand years ago, the local native religion of Tibet, Yongzhong The Bon religion was the dominant family, but later the various sects of Tibetan Buddhism came from behind, and the power and the number of believers continued to expand; the living space of the Yongzhong Bon religion had been compressed and squeezed out, and finally the believers who insisted on believing in the Yongzhong Bon religion continued to retreat. They could only retreat to the bitter cold place where the living conditions were extremely harsh, and other sects saw that there was no need to compete for this bitter cold place, so they left a way for the Yongzhongben religion to survive, so that the Yongzhongben religion could It has been handed down to this day, although it only exists in a very small part of Tibet, but it has been handed down after all.
After the visit, everyone took a group photo in front of the main hall of Zizhu Temple, but they were robbed of the camera by a few dogs sleeping in the square in front of the main hall. No matter how we fed and shouted, the dogs would not move. The monk heard us making noise outside the hall and ran out quickly, explaining: The hardest thing here these days is the good weather with the sun. These dogs should be cold because they haven’t seen the sun for a few days, so they came here to bask in the sun , you'd better leave them alone. I was right when I thought about it: the struggles between people and sects are complicated enough. It is rare that there are such ascetic animals in this place.
A calm dog in front of Zizhu Temple
Some little knowledge about Zizhu Temple: Zizhu Temple is located on Zizhu Mountain, a famous holy mountain in Dingqing County, Changdu District, Eastern Tibet, with an altitude of about 4,800 meters. One of the oldest and most important temples of the religion. Zizhu Temple was built three thousand years ago. It was initiated by the second generation of Tibetan king Muchi Tsanpu. On Zizhu Mountain in Jueen Township, Dingqing County, Qamdo Prefecture, about 37 kilometers away from the county seat. Zizhu means six mountain peaks, where different peaks protrude, tall and steep, with jagged rocks and stacked Zen temples. This temple has become an important place to study the ancient Tibetan Yongzhong Bon religion; Bon religion has four major sacred mountains, mainly Gangdisi Mountain in Ali, Nyingchi’s Today’s God Mountain, Zizhu Mountain in Qamdo, and Meili Snow Mountain in Yulong; Zizhu Temple is located in a steep mountain, far away from the secular society, so it has always maintained a pure atmosphere of practicing Dharma. For three thousand years, regardless of famines, legal disasters, wars or turmoil, although Zizhu Temple will be disturbed or even demolished, the fire of Buddhism can always be passed down here; many classics and rituals of Bon Buddhism can only be found in Zizhu Temple. Zhu Temple has been completely preserved and inherited; Zizhu Temple currently implements a free ticket policy, and you can drive there by yourself or charter a car from Dingqing County.
