【Road to Baihaba Village】
At noon on September 19th, we bought tickets to Baihaba at the Kanas Visitor Center. Tickets to Baihaba in peak season are 30 yuan + transportation vehicle (round trip) 45 yuan per person, half price for 65 years old; go to Baihaba at the border defense station border pass; and ate a rice bowl at a fast food restaurant for 60 yuan per person. Then drive to Baihaba Village at Kanas Transfer Center. The previous rumors that there will be high fees from Kanas to Baihaba, and it is difficult to obtain a border pass, etc., seem to be purely fictional, except that the copy of the ID card will cost 1 yuan. It is very convenient to buy tickets, apply for certificates, and take a bus.
Baihaba Village is known as "the first village in the Northwest". It is located in Tiereketi Township, Habahe County, Altay Prefecture, Xinjiang. The northwest of the village faces Kazakhstan across the Haba River. Baihaba Village was once rated as one of the eight most beautiful villages in China by China Geography. Due to its special geographical location, tourists need to apply for a border pass and purchase ancient village maintenance fees when they come here.
Some people compare Baihaba with Kanas, and even say that it is more beautiful than Kanas. It is said that the poplar trees here are golden in autumn, the leaves of birch trees at the foot of the mountain are bright red, the needles of larch are light yellow, and the meadows on the hills are brown red; The idyllic wooden houses of the Wa people, etc... are like a paradise, plus the photographers continue to post a large number of beautiful shots. We have always been very excited about this place, and we wanted to see the beauty of Baihaba when we came to Kanas.
There are two routes to choose from from Burqin to Baihaba, one is: Burqin → Colorful Beach → Haba River → Baihaba → Kanas. It seems that this line does not turn back, but the shuttle bus to Habahe County must first take a country car to Tiere Township, and then transfer to a nongke to Baihaba Village. It is said that these two sections of traffic are managed by local people. Illegal cars are prevalent and the fees are various. The itinerary is very time-consuming. It has been criticized and has not changed.
The other is our current route: Burqin → Colorful Beach → Burqin → Kanas → Baihaba → Kanas. The whole process relies on bus shuttle + scenic traffic. Before, there were also rumors about the arbitrary charges on this line and the difficulty of getting a pass. Perhaps, the former arbitrary charges did exist, and the rumors are not completely fictitious. But for now, it is the most convenient and fast route to go to and from Baihaba from Kanas.
The mountain road from Kanas to Baihaba is winding. Due to the damage of part of the road in the morning, the road has just been cleared. The speed limit of the highway is driving. The 30 kilometers away, the traffic vehicles drove for 1 hour, and arrived at the entrance of Baihaba Village at 2:00 p.m. PARKING LOT. After getting off the bus, we contacted the reserved villa named "Hanyue" by phone. According to the proprietress' instructions, we took the free bus in Baihaba Village and got off at the first stop in the village. After a short walk, we found our hotel. the villa.
Before we came to Baihaba, we were very confused about the business here: After booking the rooms here twice, they were inexplicably canceled. The explanation given by Ctrip was "the location has changed", and we were finally transferred to a hotel called Hanyue. Villa (CNY 178/bed for multi-person public bathroom). The villa is a few common rooms of about 20 square meters. The floor is covered with plastic sheets and filled with bunk beds. One room can accommodate more than ten people. The only bathroom in the villa is only a few square meters, but it needs to be used by 30 male and female tourists. Not to mention bathing, it is difficult to brush your teeth and wash your face, and it is even more difficult to use the toilet. All items can only be placed on the bed, there is no boiling water, almost no warm water, and no charging socket. The proprietress has nothing but enthusiasm!
Only those who have been to Baihaba know that if you come to Baihaba to see the scenery, there is no doubt that its scenery is far inferior to Kanas, and it is far less aggressive and diverse than Kanas. The biggest difference between Baihaba and Kanas is that it still maintains the original scene of the Tuva village. It is surrounded by mountains and rivers, and the houses are all wooden buildings. It is integrated with the environment, full of regional features, presenting a sense of tranquility and simplicity.
Baihaba Village is very small, a main road that is not wide passes through the middle of the village, from the parking lot at the head of the village to the viewing platform of the "Northwest First Village" at the end of the village (pictured below), it is said that it is only 1600 meters, we walk Up to half an hour. Connecting this main road are the log cabins and front gardens and backyards where herdsmen live. There are more than 140 households and more than 800 people in the village, most of whom are Tuva herdsmen. However, with the increase in passenger flow year by year and the swarming of tourists during the peak tourist season, this seemingly quiet and beautiful village in the northwest has also been rapidly commercialized.
After staying in the villa, we immediately walked west along the main road of the village for more than 10 minutes, and came to the viewing platform on the westernmost side of the village. The viewing platform is located in a military camp. Standing here, you can have a panoramic view of Baihaba Village. The viewing platform is the primary check-in place for tourists to come to Baihaba. In order to "save this photo", we waited in line for more than half an hour.
【Impression of Baihaba】
The value of Baihaba was first discovered by photographers. What did photographers discover here? What do people look for when they come to Baihaba? Probably just want to experience its simple folk customs, far away from the hustle and bustle of the world, without commercial atmosphere, a tranquil and idyllic pastoral. When you search here, what you see is neither what you think nor what you see, then, is Baihaba still the "Xanadu" you expected?
It is said that people came here in the early years to enjoy the local customs and customs, and the villagers also like to communicate with tourists. You will be invited to be a guest at the herdsman’s house at any time; Cook smoke, no one will blame you. Today, tourists flock here like a tide, and the shepherd's hut is crowded every day. It has become a norm for tourists to line up to take pictures, eat in line, and even go to the toilet. In order to be able to serve meals quickly, the herdsman's tradition of lighting a stove has also been replaced by gas. At present, it has become scarce for photographers to find a place to curl up with smoke.
It is an indisputable fact that Baihaba has been commercialized, and we are not the only ones who share the same feeling. There is a lone ranger from Kunming who lives in the "Villa" together. This is the second time for him to come to Baihaba. Overwhelmed by the people's sentiments and tranquil scenery, this time I came again to relive the old dream. But this time, he said to us disappointedly: "I didn't expect the change to be so big, and I can't find the same feeling as last time"!
As the saying goes, "there are too many people in chaos", it is not an exaggeration to describe Bai Haba in Jinqiu. It was late at night, and two unpleasant things happened in our villa. The first one was related to catering: a group of tourists waited for more than 2 hours for a special group meal. When the group meal came, there were not enough tables. A dispute arose with another group of tourists waiting for a group meal. After that, it evolved into unanimous accusations against the owner (and chef) of the villa. Such chaos is probably "all the chaos caused by too many people." Here is a reminder: If there are "foodies" who eat, eat, eat, and eat all the way, if you want to come to Baihaba to eat special delicacies in autumn, you should be careful!
That night, there was a wave of just calm in the villa, and another wave rose again. This incident was related to the accommodation. Probably because the nights in Baihaba are too cold. There is a photography teaching group with 12 people in the villa. None of them is willing to sleep at the door of the yurt (pictured below) and is willing to protect others from the wind and cold. Therefore, another incident happened between the students and Theories and quarrels among students about "who should sleep by the door". Traveling is a beautiful and pleasant process. Why do people become so discordant in a place known as "Xanadu"? It is probably because Bai Haba's limited resources are overdrawn, and people feel that their expenses are not worth their money!
In fact, travel is an experience. When you come to Baihaba, you can keep everything simple. You can’t make instant noodles without boiling water. You can get away with a 5 yuan roasted potato at the entrance of the village. This is Bai Haba, we were confused before we came, and you will understand it when you come. Everyone wants to come to Baihaba, Baihaba is so small, with only such a small reception capacity, even if the people of Baihaba are exhausted, they may not be able to meet such a huge demand! Just like the owner + chef of our villa said: "I am busy from morning to night every day, and I can't sleep for a few hours. I am really busy and confused. I am really sorry for everyone"!
Although Baihaba has its unsatisfactory features, the scenery here still has its unique features. In the evening, when Baihaba shines on Jinshan Mountain, the scene is extraordinary. Some people say that there are some Kanas that are not here, but there are not all Kanas that are here. This is Bai Haba, a Bai Haba that you will only know if you have been here and experienced it yourself!
There is a famous Chinese saying that goes, "The road is made by people." When a thing develops to a certain level, people will change it. Nowadays, there is a kind of walking tour that "go to Baihaba without entering the village, turn around and walk back to Kanas". This is what we saw with our own eyes. On the day we returned to Kanas inn, there were eight young people in our inn. They first took a bus from Kanas to Baihaba. Guanyu Pavilion in Nas (the slope of the back hill is small, saving labor and fare), and then walk from Guanyu Pavilion to Tuva New Village for accommodation. The tourism department should promote the diversification of Baihaba tourism with advanced awareness!
In the early morning of September 20th, Bai Haba had just finished the hustle and bustle of last night, and he hadn't woken up from his sleep yet. It seems to return to the white Haba in people's memory. We followed a "teacher-level" photographer through the wooden houses and courtyards of Baihaba, looking for the rising smoke. We first came to the observation deck to look for the target, and when we locked the target, we immediately followed the target.
Bai Haba's blockbuster "Cooking Smoke" is a delicacy that everyone can get at their fingertips, and every photographer can get it at their fingertips. Now, we followed the teacher all the way, and finally found a place where the cooking smoke could become a scene. Everyone surrounded it, shooting left and right, horizontally and vertically, far away and close up, and then again and again. With the shining dawn of Baihaba and the blue sky and white clouds as companions, although this "rare resource" is not ideal, but with this moment in front of us, the photographers are very satisfied, and our trip is worthwhile!
After shooting the morning smoke of Baihaba, we ended the trip of Baihaba. After returning to the villa and saying goodbye to the proprietress, we walked to the village parking lot and returned to Kanas by car. After that, we transferred from Jiadengyu to Hemu. Although the hasty trip to Baihaba was somewhat unsatisfactory, the beauty of Baihaba's quiet morning still left a good impression. Perhaps, we don't really know Bai Haba, but after all, we have been here for it.
(End of this article/to be continued) Jinling Lesou 2020/9/16
