Spring City Kunming | Blossoms of flowers, carved beams and painted buildings, as long as you want to come, it is a good time
There are too many legends about Yunnan, some come from word of mouth from friends, gossip on the Internet, and some come from novels and film and television dramas. Before my first trip, my impression of Dali and Lijiang was still bars and Aventures, while Kunming was just a "flower market" that was convenient to pass by.
When I saw that the flight ticket from Shenzhen to Kunming was only 120, I immediately prepared the itinerary. I wanted to take a good look at this city that I just passed by last time. When traveling in extraordinary times, all kinds of health codes must be carefully studied and filled out carefully. Travel instructions will be attached in the follow-up. Even after the epidemic has passed, these "troublesome things" during the journey can be regarded as a special experience.
Known as the "City of Spring", Kunming has a really good climate and is very livable. When I booked a homestay, I found that many houses do not even have air conditioning! In fact, few people in most cities in Yunnan use air conditioners. The temperature difference between day and night in plateau areas is large. Even if you travel with short sleeves during the day, you need to cover a large quilt to sleep at night. What is enviable is that the four seasons here are like spring, and it is sunny almost every day. Different flowers bloom in every season. As long as you want to come, it is a good time.
I used to think that Kunming was a modern metropolis, leading and managing complex ethnic minority areas. In fact, Kunming is also an ancient cultural capital with a rich history. As early as 30,000 years ago, humans lived and multiplied around Dianchi Lake. The Kingdom of Dian was born in 278 BC. years, thousands of years ago.
Today's Dianchi Lake has become an urban park in the suburbs of Kunming. Many Kunming citizens come here with their families for leisure and vacation. They feed pigeons with their children, fly kites, spread cloth on the grass, and set up tents with their families and friends. picnic. In addition to the 1-hour cruise with a ticket price of nearly 100 yuan and the glass trestle bridge for 20 yuan, there are many interesting entertainment items in Haigeng Park beside Dianchi Lake~
Most of the red-headed gulls that flew from Siberia in winter have gone back, but it is still very pleasant to stand by the choppy Dianchi Lake and look at the western mountains. There is a beautiful legend about the formation of Dianchi Lake:
A young hunter came to the East China Sea after untold hardships in search of water, and happened to save the third princess of the Dragon King of the East China Sea. The Dragon King wanted to recruit him as his son-in-law, so he turned him into a little yellow dragon. Missing him, he drank enough water from the East China Sea and quietly flew back to Kunming, but his wife passed away because of excessive longing and turned into Sleeping Beauty Mountain. The hunter was distraught, and after spitting out the water from the East China Sea to form Dianchi Lake, he crashed into a mountain and died. Since then, Kunming, which was originally barren, has become rich and beautiful because the water of Dianchi Lake has nourished all things.
In ancient times, cities and civilizations developed around water sources. There are many water systems in the urban area of Kunming, and the meandering Panlong River flows into Dianchi Lake. Guandu Ancient Town, which is rich in cultural landscape, is also near Dianchi Lake. Guandu, formerly known as "Wodong", used to be a fishing village with piles of screw shells, and later became a treasure place where dignitaries built palaces and villas, and celebrities patronized and lingered.
Guandu Ancient Town, which flourished in the Tang and Song Dynasties, is a famous historical and cultural relic in Kunming. When I first arrived, I felt that there were many temples here, including the Tuzhu Temple in the Tang Dynasty, the Legal Temple in the Song Dynasty, and the Miaozhan Temple in the Yuan Dynasty. Even Shaolin Temple has it! Although there are not many tourists on the main street and bar street, there are already girls in ancient costumes taking pictures in front of the temples and historic sites, and many shops are also open for business.
Many Kunming delicacies will be marked with the "Guandu" LOGO. It can be seen that Guandu had a profound influence on the entire ancient city of Kunming at that time. Under the recommendation of a friend, I tried Li's wheat cakes, and only then did I know that the cakes taste like this~ In addition, here There are also many intangible cultural heritages, such as "Yunnan Weiqi", "Black Copper and Silver", "Guandu Baikuai" and "Dian Opera Lantern"... Such a cultural place is worth visiting slowly and learning. to many things.
In addition to Guandu, which is far from the city center, there are also several "old streets" in the urban area of Kunming, which are near several emerging centralized commercial streets. Almost every city has at least one old street, but some have been planned and the buildings have become brand new and tidy, while others have been reduced to "ancient town model", with both lively bars and cafes, and almost all selling the same things A specialty street.
But it feels good to go shopping on the old streets of Kunming. There are no houses so new that people doubt the historical accumulation. It's attractive enough! I sincerely think that Kunming's literature and art are not fake, but deeply rooted in the bones.
Nanqiang Pedestrian Street is a relatively well-preserved ancient block in the center of Kunming. The buildings are mainly old houses in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. Representative buildings such as Wutingjing and Liutongchun, many literary and art shops have settled in this block, and it is a bit like a cultural and creative park when you go shopping.
If you don't want to go far to Dianchi Lake and just want to take a walk around the city, Cuihu Park is definitely a good choice! There are red-billed gulls of the same type as Dianchi Lake, as well as trees full of flowers and fresh bamboo forests, and there are fewer tourists than Dianchi Lake, and there are not so many commercial entertainment items. It is very pleasant to just stroll around.
What surprised me is that although Yunnan is thousands of kilometers away from Beijing, the styles of ancient buildings are almost the same. When wandering around Cuihu Park, I had the illusion that I had strayed into the royal garden. The exquisite carved beams and painted buildings, the magnificent glazed tiles and red brick walls all highlighted the wealth and very traditional cultural heritage of this southwestern borderland.
There are many celebrities who came out of Kunming, including Zheng He, who sailed to the West seven times and traveled to 39 countries, and Nie Er, the people's musician who composed the national anthem for us... While attaching importance to education, because of the large number of ethnic minorities and diverse folk customs Wonderful, Yunnan's tolerance of various cultures is indeed unmatched by other provinces, so don't be surprised to see anything here. The architectural styles on the ancient streets are all-encompassing, sometimes traditional, sometimes full of exotic flavors. The food can also be salty or sweet, and the taste can be heavy or light. No matter where you are from, you can always find the one you like.
Before leaving Kunming, I revisited the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster that I visited last time. The uniqueness of the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster, a well-known scenic spot in Kunming, is that at a certain time, there will be a spectacle of "Golden and Jade Crossing Brilliance". However, the current "Golden Horse" and "Biji" are no longer the glory of the past. Surrounded by reinforced concrete forests, they have become city squares where tourists stop to take pictures and check in.
The "Utopia" for the unemployed, the "Xanadu" written by Jin Yong, those stories are happening
Everyone has a dream of "facing the sea, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming"
How many people went to Dali because of reading Jin Yong's novels
The landscapes of Dali, the past and present of Nanzhao Kingdom, all bloomed with special brilliance under the pen of Mr. Jin Yong. I still remember the stories of "evil in the east and poison in the west, the emperor in the south and the beggar in the north". The world created by martial arts novels is extraordinary, and the Dali I saw with my own eyes is not inferior. Many people may think that Dali is just a small city in the southwestern border, but it has been pushed to the forefront by various Internet celebrity photos. In fact, Dali has a long history and is one of the earliest cultural birthplaces in Yunnan. Since the 4th century AD, the Bai people have lived here. The Nanzhao Kingdom flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and the subsequent Dali Kingdom (that is, Duan Yu's country) ruled the region for more than 300 years.
As a mysterious frontier "Utopia", Dali is also a hotspot for fairy tales and games. For example, Zhao Ling'er in "Legend of Sword and Fairy", she is the princess of Nanzhao Kingdom. Looking back at her clothing design now, it really has a bit of exotic ethnic style.
This southwest "border town" is actually quite rich
Because Yunnan produces tea, Dali must become an important stop on the ancient tea-horse road. Looking back at history, the ancient city of Dali has been very prosperous for a long time. It is indeed the paradise in Qiong Yao's drama with mountains, rivers and people. In fact, if you are rich or not, you will know if you look at the traditional houses of the Bai people. Apart from the blue tiles and white walls, the gable corners are decorated with ink patterns, and the Zhaobi with the ancestor’s instructions is written on it. , the rooms are spacious and comfortable, every family has running water, and every household grows flowers... No wonder people say that Dali is livable. The Bai people with such a "love home" mentality continue to manage it carefully, which is naturally fascinating.
Due to the epidemic, the originally bustling ancient city became quiet, which made it easier for foreigners who came from afar to understand the true appearance of the ancient city. Although we can find some "everyone knows" online celebrity brand shops, and many bars and coffee bars on the commercial street, there are really many local residents living here, and there are hospitals, supermarkets, primary and secondary schools, and kindergartens. Many tourists may think that the undeveloped area of the ancient city is "a bit boring", but I prefer these corners that are "unseen by tourists". After all, this is the real Dali. I don't want the ancient city that is alive and well to be over-developed and become A place where tourists continue to drink and have fun in another place.
Paradise to Fulfill the Fantasy of the "Unemployed"
Last time when I planned my itinerary in Yunnan, I especially skipped Dali, because I was afraid that it would be too literary and full of unrealistic fantasies. ". But when I really worked up the courage to go to Dali, I found that I was too worried. Dali is not so "good" and not so "bad". Dali is indeed very literary and artistic, but also very down-to-earth. Whether it is for rebirth or escape, she has received many creative "aspiring young people". Most of them come from big cities with great pressure in life and work. When they arrive in Dali, Only then did I know what real life is, and I fell in love with Cangshan and Erhai from then on, resolutely resigned and went to Dali to start a business.
There are many similar stories, and Dali, which strives to develop tourism, has given them enough space and opportunities. Under the guidance of Tina, I came to the cultural and creative park transformed from the Dali bed sheet factory, saw the advertisement of X Tour, and the "Dolphin Ade Bookstore" that reminded me of the Seagull Bookstore in Tokyo, Japan. The promotional words on those posters are very attractive, "Life can be cooler, start in another way" "Everyone has a dream in their hearts"...including the works of those craftsmen, many designs and brands make people feel very "advanced" ", perhaps the bright sunshine and fresh air in Dali gave these so-called "unemployed" endless life and creative inspiration.
Most of the people who start their own businesses in Dali are not real "businessmen", and they feel arrogant when communicating. Many people invest regardless of cost, really just to realize a dream. For example, my old friend "Princess" who I have known for a long time, she and her artist husband sold their house in Xiamen, quit their stable jobs, and ran a homestay together in Dali for many years. Now they have developed an original brand that is both practical and beautiful .
There is also a new friend I just met this time, the owner of Yueshan Yiju Tianyuan B&B. She is from Guangdong. Because of a gap year trip, she became friends with her husband and ran this house in Dali. Most of the B&B rooms are suites with a living room. Outside the unobstructed floor-to-ceiling windows, apart from the green rice fields and vegetable gardens, you can see the beautiful scenery of the huge Cangshan Mountain and the ancient city. There is also a uniquely designed "starry room" in their home. When the roof curtain is opened at night, you can directly watch the moon and stars. Although the location is still a short distance from the ancient city, it can definitely be regarded as a high-quality homestay that gathers Dali's "wind, flowers, snow, and moon"~
Welcoming and sending, the cultural tolerance of tea and flowers
Dali's great attraction to foreigners is mainly due to her inclusiveness of "tolerance is great". Many people think that ethnic minority areas will be rejected when other cultures enter, but Dali's "almost no picky" absorption of cultures from various places really surprised me. When visiting the ancient city, I somehow felt that the Bai people's houses and the waterways of the ancient city were somewhat similar to Huizhou in the south of the Yangtze River, with the same high-walled courtyard, carved beams and painted buildings, small bridges and flowing water.
In the "Rushi" coffee shop in the ancient city, after a sip of "Osmanthus wine", I found that the "combination of Chinese and Western" was so well blended. Not to mention the mosques and Catholic churches built in prominent positions on the main street, which represent the long-term acceptance and tolerance of foreign cultures in this ancient city.
It is said that as long as there are foreign visitors, the enthusiastic Bai people will prepare three kinds of tea. The flowers in Dali are not just for viewing. Many local people will use flowers as ingredients to cook seasonal delicacies.
Dali’s delicacies mostly come from fresh ingredients in the mountains and fields, adding local creative ideas, such as making milk into "milk fans", making local unique "sea cauliflower" into "water-based poplar flowers", and seasonal wild mushroom fried rice, There are also beef and roast duck recipes, which have been adjusted according to the actual situation and the needs of customers. The taste is fresh, crisp but not greasy. This time, I followed Tina into the private restaurants in the streets and alleys, and tasted the unique Dali specialties.
Happiness is having something to do, someone to love, and hope
love and thinking about life
Cangshan Light Hiking | Walk 20 kilometers, travel to the top of Cangshan Mountain, and enjoy the wind, flowers, snow and moon together
When you arrive in Dali, you must understand the "wind, flowers, snow and moon". It is not a love or an affair that you travel thousands of miles to pursue, but the real landscape of Dali, the wind in Xiaguan, the flowers in Shangguan, the snow in Cangshan Mountain, and the moon in Erhai Lake. Before, I always heard people talking about the Erhai Lake. There are various accents. The literature and art are not good, but few people mention Cangshan Mountain. In fact, visiting Cangshan Mountain is not inferior to traveling around Erhai Lake!
This time I stayed at the Dali Hilton Hotel at the foot of Cangshan Mountain. They thoughtfully provided guests with options for surrounding tours. One of them is the "light walking" of Yunyou Cangshan Mountain. The quotation marks are added because it is not suitable for people like me who have long-term dissatisfaction. For those who exercise, the nearly 20 kilometers of mountain climbing + hiking is a bit hard, but people with good physical fitness may think that this is just a small case. The huge Cangshan Mountain does welcome everyone to challenge~ It is said that climbing wild roads is more exciting~
We started from Gantong Temple near the hotel. The temple has a long history and an excellent location. It is near the mountain gate. This temple is temporarily closed to the public due to the epidemic. There are still some pilgrims living in it. Just walk to Jizhao Temple, their vegetarian dishes are famous far and wide. In addition to believing in the masters of the village, most of the local Bai residents are also devout believers in Buddhism, and the temples and nunneries are full of incense.
Jin Yong mentioned the "Linglong Chess Game" in "The Eight Parts of the Dragon". There is indeed such a game in Cangshan. Although Go has been changed to Xiangqi to take care of the visual effect, the game between Qiao Feng, Duan Yu and Xu Zhu The shape can also fulfill the dreams of martial arts fans. I don't know if it is to make up for the shortcomings. There are many trees planted by Go masters next to the chess game. Now the trees have become forests, and the dreams of Go fans have also been fulfilled. I was a little confused when I first read it, but it was only when I discovered the Linglong chess game in front of me that I suddenly realized that I really didn’t read enough books...
There are 19 peaks and 18 streams in Cangshan Mountain, which means that there must be a stream pouring down between the two peaks. Dali people are proud of being able to drink pure and clear Cangshan water~ and Qingbixi is the top of these streams. It is also one of the main scenic spots on Cangshan Jade Belt Road. If you don’t need to buy tickets if you only go to the scenic spots below Qingbixi, it is probably to take care of the local pilgrims who just come to worship the Buddha, and it also confirms the important position of Qingbixi from the side.
There are streams flowing through, and you can see the suspension bridges. There are not only the unpretentious fairy ferry, but also the suspension bridges that are full of blessing ribbons and love locks and span the Qingbi River. Perhaps because there are a lot fewer tourists, the online celebrity check-in points that originally hung the charging sign are no longer guarded, and you can take pictures at will~ So you must seize the right time to play~~
The hotel prepared a nutritious lunch for the guests who participated in the light hiking experience, so that everyone can replenish energy in time, which is very considerate! The Hilton Hotel Dali is indeed the best Hilton experience I have ever stayed in~ The hotel is backed by Cangshan Mountain, facing Erhai Lake, close to the ancient city and Dali University, and has an excellent location. The room has many distinctive decoration details, complete configuration, soft and comfortable bedding! In the morning, you can directly see the wonderful sunrise from the balcony~
Because it is located in a resort, the hotel has a strong leisure attribute. It not only provides guests with tours around the hotel, but also prepares experience packages for guests traveling with their children, including cooking courses of Bai specialty snacks and local handicraft making experience, etc. Even if you don’t leave the hotel all day, it will be so exciting that you can’t stop~ There are many kinds of food in the restaurant, and you can taste different "chef recommended" dishes every season, and you are guaranteed to have surprises every time you come !
I learned how to make "thin bean flour" with the chef. This is the first time I have eaten such a special dim sum~ I still have to have a local guide to take it with me to be authentic!
Dali is sunny for more than 300 days a year. With the nourishment of the bright sunshine, there are so many blooming flowers and magical animals and plants on Cangshan Mountain! When we strolled along the Yudai Yunyou Road, we finally breathed a sigh of relief and began to carefully observe the details around us along the way. The handsome guide Thomas introduced us to many plants that look very special. The whole mountain is like an active encyclopedia of animals and plants. Traveling thousands of miles is really more impressive than reading thousands of books.
In addition, Cangshan Mountain is also an encyclopedia of geology. More than 2 billion years of precipitation have made the landforms here diverse and precious, which is worth studying. After all, it is well known that the "marble" widely used in decoration and artistic sculpture does come from Dali. When traveling in the clouds, you can overlook the panoramic view of the ancient city and new city of Dali. The scenery at the height is really beautiful, but it’s just that I haven’t climbed the mountain so seriously for a long time...
In fact, the Cangshan Mountain Scenic Area is very reasonably designed, giving the choice of climbing or not. Multiple cable cars connect the main attractions, and the Yudai Road with an open landscape is a highland with an altitude of 2,600 meters, but it is all flat land, so you don’t need to go up and down. The "enjoyment" of walking is not easy to get tired. There will be beautiful pavilions for tourists to take a rest every other section of the road along the way, which is very thoughtful.
The end point of our "light walk" is Zhonghe Temple, which is different from Gantong Temple, which is a Taoist temple dedicated to the Jade Emperor. The Zhonghe cableway going down the mountain from here is very distinctive. There is no annoying glass cover to isolate you from nature. The 360-degree viewing angle is convenient for taking pictures, but it looks a bit thrilling. Fortunately, the cable car is not too far from the ground, and the actual ride is not too far. So scary, highly recommended! The ticket price is not expensive, it is a very worthwhile experience!
Happiness is that there are mountains, there are seas, and there are people
It's hand in hand with you, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming
Tour around Erhai Lake
Every time I read those sad texts that involve emotions and dreams at every turn, I always feel very unreal. People with fragile souls will see a fragile world wherever they escape. The same place, with thousands of people and faces, in Dali in my eyes, there is no sky ladder, no rainbow bridge, no glass balls, no colorful glass bottles and long tables. The real Dali is rich and interesting enough, there is no need to add oil and vinegar.
Dali is a very mature travel destination. It is very accurate for tourists who like to check in and take pictures. There are well-arranged Internet celebrity shooting locations everywhere, and a certain fee is charged for those who come to take pictures. These landscapes are actually found everywhere. As long as the background is rivers, lakes and seas, and the weather is fine, you can get good-looking results. It is too wasteful to go all the way to Dali, just to use the beautiful Erhai Lake as the background of the photo.
I have always been interested in folklore and religion. Now that I have come to the Bai Autonomous Prefecture, I have to learn about the unique customs here. Since ancient times, the Bai people have been living in the vicinity of the Erhai Lake. Among them, the ancient town of Xizhou has left many traditional buildings of the Bai people, which has become one of the must-see attractions around the Erhai Lake. We started shopping from Zhengyimen. In fact, if we don’t say that this is a Bai village, at first glance, it really looks like a small town in the south of the Yangtze River.
Under Tina's persuasion, I tried Xizhou's grilled bait. The shape is similar to that of a milk fan, but the taste is very different. I like the cute appearance of the baked bait. The locals There are so many cooking methods for rice products such as bait cubes and bait shreds, and it can be eaten for several days without repeating the same thing~
In the ancient town of Xizhou, there are several courtyards of big families, all of which were built by the leading wealthy businessmen of the year. Among them, the Yan Family Courtyard, built in 1907, has now become a paid attraction for tourists to visit. There are also many black and white historical photos posted on the walls around the central square of the town, which are precious memories of the ancient town from liberation to development.
This former Internet celebrity spot has been very quiet after the epidemic. Only a few shops on both sides of the main street are open. Compared with the ancient city of Dali, the shops here are more unique. You can’t find those souvenirs on the bad street, but there are many. An original design shop with no branches outside the country.
"Bojizai", which is full of intangible cultural heritage Bai armored horses and woolen felt products, is such a store. There are only 3 stores in Xizhou, and there is no online store. It prefers experiential management. Come here to taste tea. Drink coffee, learn how to print prints from the teacher, and take home the handicrafts that are full of blessings hidden in various villages of the Bai people.
Although the rape blossoms have already grown, the large fields and the red walls in the distance are still a beautiful picture. Dali Pessoa Pastoral Coffee is facing the vast green fields, with unobstructed first-line views and high-quality drinks, it has become an Internet celebrity coffee shop that everyone must check in when they come to Xizhou.
Because of the sudden drop in tourists, it is said that every time you take a picture, there are no Internet celebrity attractions that require a long queue. You can take pictures until you are satisfied~ and it seems that the flower carriages that walk around the streets can only be operated at reduced prices. Although some dwellings in the ancient town have been transformed into homestays, many local residents still live in Xizhou. Seeing the aunts carrying baskets to buy and sell vegetables out of the street in style, a strong sense of life comes to your face.
Many tourists who come to Dali will choose to live in sea view B&Bs. Shuanglang is the most seen on the Internet platform. There are many choices and the photos are very beautiful. But when I arrived in Shuanglang Ancient Town, I found that there is really a big gap between ideal and reality. Just like the "story" written by some Wenqing, when the lie is so beautiful, even I believe it. Most of the densely packed houses in the ancient town are B&Bs, with a small space for activities. Except for the few on the outskirts, the "sea" of most "sea view B&Bs" can only be seen from the roof...
If you want to live in the Erhai Lake, you can actually have more choices. For example, the Dali International Hotel is located in the urban area. It is only 10 minutes away from the railway station. Although it is in a busy city, it is very secluded and quiet. To enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Erhai Lake, the suite also provides a telescope, and the scenery is not inferior to those "sea view inns". The hotel has complete facilities, and the overall design is low-key and luxurious. It is mainly based on the local style of the Bai nationality, and is suitable for both business and vacation. Even during the epidemic period, the special meals are very rich, and you can feel the strong Dali ethnic customs~
Today's Erhai Lake takes environmental protection first, and many areas are no longer open to tourists, but the few sections we can go to, the scenery is not bad, basically the sea and the sky are the same color, and the water is so blue that the children can pick them up on the shore. You can catch small fish from shells, and you can see instruments and facilities for purifying water everywhere.
Listening to Yang Xing talking about Sanyue Street, every year from March 15th to March 21st in the lunar calendar is a big day for the Bai people to celebrate and celebrate! It's a pity that I couldn't participate in this grand festival in person this year, but I have always had a strong curiosity about the beliefs of the local Bai people. I saw the maids (aunts) of the Bai people taking boats to Little Putuo to pay homage to the natives in the village. Lord, I also want to see the masters in different villages.
Thomas took us through Nancun, a new socialist village full of hand-painted graffiti. The journey was full of surprises, and finally we found that their main temple was located in the village committee. Even the courtyard wall next to the temple is covered with legends about the owner. In fact, the owner of the Bai nationality is the protector of the village. The main temple is very similar to our "ancestral hall". God.
Erhai Lake contains many stories, not the stereotyped disappointment in career and love, but the magical legends about the God of the Black God, the Empress of the Golden Mushroom, and the Snow Mountain Prince...Those wonderful blessings that have condensed for thousands of years make the guests from afar even more happy. Only by appreciating this optimistic nation, knowing how to be grateful, and learning to be in awe, can we truly understand what a happy life is.
Happiness is expectation, blessing and love
It's the appearance of you praying for me