Preface: Lijiang, once again crazy about it
In the early morning, as the plane's pulley landed and rolled, I set foot on the land of Yunnan again. I can’t remember how many times I have come to Lijiang. I have been here with friends and family in different seasons in the past ten years.
This year is quite special. The spring rain in the south of the Yangtze River is slightly melancholy. It has been pattering underground for a few days, and I have not gone out at home for three months. I have just been able to go out to relax recently. After thinking about it, I decided to go back to Lijiang.
Lijiang is noisy, you can party all night; Lijiang is also quiet, you can sit in the sunny courtyard for a long time in a daze. It carries too many memories and pasts of mine. Perhaps every city that lives by the water has its own charming charm.
Some people say that a hundred people will find a hundred different scenery in Lijiang. I have been going back and forth over the years, and even the places I go to repeatedly will give me different surprises every time.
Whether it is the blue sky and white clouds, the gurgling snow-capped mountains, or the pastoral meadows, with the smoke from the kitchen, how can all these not make people crazy about it. I think that after many years, when the memory floods, every time Lijiang is in my mind, it will be a unique existence.
Shuhe Ancient Town: the joy of reunion after a long absence
People often say: Shuhe for one person, Lijiang for a group of people. The ancient town of Shuhe is small and comfortable, and has nothing to do with the world. I fell in love with this small world when I came here for the first time. Later, I came back with my friends and family, and I still like it.
Walking on the mottled bluestone road, the trickling stream beside the road, the old trees and willows swaying gently, the warm sunshine relaxes the body and frees the mind. This is probably the ideal life I want.
Dark red paint, old wooden facades, craftsmen doing handwork, old people sitting outside the shop, every corner of the town has its own busy figure, which outlines the quaint natural qualities of Shuhe.
Today's ancient town is much cleaner than in previous years, and there are not many tourists on Sifang Street. Only then did I realize that time is so fleeting and fleeting. Seven years have passed in a blink of an eye, and here are the best memories of all my youth.
From the beginning to the present, it has always maintained an unhurried rhythm, without deliberately pandering, just in this world, living happily, whether you come or not, it is there.
The only thing that has changed is us. When we came to Shuhe, time began to slow down, and we had more time to sit down and examine ourselves and the past. Over the years, I have traveled to many places and met many people, but the story that happened in Shuhe is like a glass of fine wine last night. After I am drunk, I will still remember it.
The inn that I will stay in every time I come is Huajiantang Moxiangyuan. It is located in the center of the ancient town, only a few steps away from Sifang Street. It is known as "the place where Danfeng contains books", and it is a veritable "scholarly family" among the many courtyards of Huajiantang.
Approaching this courtyard, there is still this cute puppy, lazily sitting on the bench basking in the sun, looking thoughtful. I can see it every time I come. We are like old friends. I sat next to it and touched its little head. It should have recognized me.
Regarding the past and present of Moxiangyuan, it can be traced back to the first year of Yongzheng in the Qing Dynasty. Yiren and Congshun opened the "Yi Xueguan" here. In the eleventh year of Qianlong, later generations built the "Wenchang Palace" here to promote cultural education. Shuhe has become a famous hometown of talents.
Today, Huajiantang integrates the unique "private school culture" of Shuhe into the inn. The overall decoration style and layout are my favorite. It was raining that day, and the courtyard was exceptionally quiet, with the breeze blowing, especially suitable for sitting down, reading and thinking carefully.
Here you can sit cross-legged on the floor, with an ancient book on the futon, and whisper while holding the scroll. The fragrance of books, tea, flowers, and ink lingers slowly. It is like traveling to an ancient private school in an instant, as if there is a kind of Liang Shanbo and Zhu Ying. The hallucination of classmates reading together.
Many fates in life are perceived inadvertently, seemingly plain, but meaningful. For a moment, I just want to live here in seclusion, never to care about world affairs, and return to the most primitive quality of life.
Lijiang Old Town: Memories are like a storyteller
When I first knew about Lijiang, I really wanted to see the ancient city. The long alleys paved with bluestones are filled with faint fireworks of the ancient city, and occasionally pedestrians walk by leisurely. This is the ancient city in my imagination.
Later, more people came, and I got used to its noise and impetuousness. I always felt that it was far from my original expectation. However, this time, I seem to see its original appearance again, pure and beautiful.
There are not many tourists in the ancient city, and the shops are only half open. This is the quietest moment I have seen it in so many years. The bar was not open yet, so the singers sat on the floor in groups of three or five, singing in the streets and alleys. Seeing this scene, they felt inexplicably moved.
You said that Lijiang in the real sense is between after the tourists fall asleep and before they wake up. And now, every day is its best time. The quiet and peaceful streets, the gurgling water under the small bridge, an ancient red wall with black tiles, are covered with mottled stories of the small town, and every trace of the flow that has not been weathered is a picturesque and affectionate story.
How many inns are there in the ancient city? I don't know, but the Tinghuatang Private Garden Inn I stayed in this time has an excellent view. The inn is located on the Lion Mountain of the ancient city, sitting in a central location overlooking the panoramic view of the ancient city.
Walking into the inn, there is an illusion of entering the garden by mistake. The fragrance of flowers permeates the air, and colorful flowers are blooming. Such a flower-themed yard, there is no Jimei or love!
The entire inn consists of three adjacent courtyards, each with a different style. The inn’s butler is very caring, and will contact you in time after booking. If you don’t know how to get there, you will come to pick you up in person.
Just after a rain, the air in the courtyard is fresh, unloading the luggage on the body and the fatigue in the heart, and enjoying a comfortable and quiet life here like the locals.
Flowers are the eternal theme of Tinghuatang. There are different flowers blooming in every corner of the yard. Wherever the breeze passes, the flowers fluctuate with the wind, just like dancing girls swinging their beautiful long skirts.
Being in the sea of flowers, forgetting all the troubles, the heart yearning for beauty and freedom is awakened. Listening to the rain and enjoying the flowers, the most beautiful thing is not the rainy day, but the eaves that hide from the rain with you.
The courtyard is spacious and designed in a new Chinese style. At dusk, you can lean on the railing on the second floor to watch the moon. When I came to see it before, I was always worried about whether it would rain, but after I arrived, I felt that it was raining.
I had a dream many years ago, I wanted to have a yard of my own, filled with all kinds of flowers, and when the garden was full of flowers, I invited friends to come to my house as guests, drink and chat under the flower trees, and never go home without getting drunk . Coming to Tinghuatang, it's like walking into my dream home. It's warm, romantic, and flowers bloom in all seasons. It's so good.
The room in the inn is very large, and the overall design is novel and fashionable. It is a style that young people like. There are also comfortable bedding and equipment. It can be seen that the attention is paid to details. The staff are also on call to help solve various problems, such as Guide the way, carry luggage, etc., in every possible way.
With the permission of the housekeeper, I also climbed to the roof and put on the Hanfu I brought. This roof is the Internet celebrity roof of the inn, but if you take pictures, you still have to pay attention to safety.
It's a pity that I didn't get the sunset I wanted, but I took a photo I liked, which is considered complete. Next time I come, I must stay longer.
There are also many delicacies in the ancient city, the taste is spicy, mainly Naxi cuisine, but also Yunnan cuisine and Sichuan cuisine. And the one restaurant that I will patronize every time I come is the Yunnan-Tibet Stone Pot Banquet. Its taste is worth coming all the way.
The restaurant is located in Chongren Lane, Qiyi Street in the ancient city area. Every meal time is full of customers and you need to wait for a seat. Friends who are familiar with Motuo stone pot chicken will definitely be familiar with it. This is the only authentic Motuo stone in Lijiang. A place for pot chicken.
In the Yunnan area, residents prefer to cook in stone pots, and the stone pots in Medog are the most famous. They can only be made in Medog. The stone pots themselves contain various trace elements needed by the human body, and the more they are used, the more they become Thin. This pot is expensive to make, and the food cooked in this kind of stone pot has a natural taste.
The chef combines the stone pot of Medog with the traditional original ecological cuisine of Yunnan, stews the chicken soup, and adds precious ingredients such as bamboo fungus and truffles to ensure that you can't stop eating.
If you come during the season of eating mushrooms, the roasted matsutake mushrooms here are so delicious that you can’t stop. This shop has been operating in the ancient city for many years, and the ingredients and taste are among the best.
In addition to the stone pot chicken, there is a stone pot barbecue around the outside, which can grill pork belly, beef, chicken wings, etc. The waiter is very considerate, afraid that we will not be able to grill, and provides full service.
Wrapped tofu and plum wine must be tasted. Even people like me who don’t know how to drink think this sweet and sour drink is delicious. After a drink, the slightly smoky feeling is just right.
After eating and drinking enough, the ancient city is already lit up. When all the hustle and bustle gradually fade away with the sunset, the unique temperament of the ancient city can be revealed. Facing the bright moonlight, walking on the ancient stone road, blowing the breeze, what a wonderful moment.
Baisha Ancient Town: A Forgotten Village
Baisha Ancient Town at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a village forgotten by the world. This quaint village chief has maintained his original appearance for many years, with earthen walls and rough tiles, and the old man on the side of the road walked with a contented expression.
This is the birthplace of the regime of the Lijiang Tusi "Mu Family", and it is also an ancient town with the legacy of Naxi. It is known as the most original Naxi village. Because there are not many tourists, many foreigners live here and stay for a long time.
There is only one old commercial street in the ancient town. Small shops selling souvenirs mainly sell two kinds of things, one is tie-dye, and the other is various antiques. Most of the stalls are leisurely local old people, because there are no tourists, it is a little deserted.
Walking and walking, I came to a tie-dye workshop, where all kinds of tie-dyed cloths were drying in the open air yard, so I got into it, took a photo, and chatted with the old man in the yard for a while.
There is no doubt that besides the elderly, the most common people in the streets and alleys here are dogs. It seems that there is a puppy at the door of every house. They squat lazily on the side of the street and are not afraid of strangers at all.
Without the commercial atmosphere of the ancient city of Lijiang, it is closer to the original than the ancient town of Shuhe. This is the quaint and quiet Baisha ancient town. Choose a yard with flowers and live here for a few days, you will definitely not want to leave.
Yuhu Village: On the way to the Snow Mountain
The road from Baisha Ancient Town to Yuhu Village is the biggest surprise of this trip. This time we drove by ourselves, the road conditions were very good along the way, and the jeep had no problems at all.
The most satisfying thing is its appearance, and there are many colors to choose from. For a Jimei like me who likes to take pictures, it is a scenery wherever it is driven. In addition, its fuel consumption is not high, the power and chassis passability are good, and the trunk space is sufficient, which is perfect.
I heard from friends before that the scenery along the road from Baisha Ancient Town to Yuhu Village is good, but I didn’t expect that various photography bases have been set up now. There are two relatively large photography bases along the road. If you want to take pictures, you can drive in directly. You can take pictures by yourself for 30 per person, and the photographer will also charge.
The location of the photography base here is excellent, with the snow-capped mountains behind it, so many tourists come from other places to take wedding photos. There are also many scenes, such as boats, swings, bathtubs, and various cars.
My favorite is this church. It is built in the water, with snow mountains behind it. If the weather is clear, the reflections are super beautiful. Although it was cloudy when I took the photo, it snowed the day before, and the snow mountains are super beautiful.
Chiliu Mountain Dwelling: Poetic Pastoral Life
Continue to drive in the direction of the snow-capped mountains, pass through primitive villages and poetic countryside, and you will arrive at Chiliu Mountain Residence. It hides in the west corner of Yuhu Village, backed by the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain range, and the Bixi River stretches down the mountain.
There are natural snow mountain spring water, forest oxygen bar, far away from the hustle and bustle, and the forest garden in the back mountain can also lead directly to the snow mountain range. In your spare time, if you walk around, you will find that it is like a paradise, quiet and beautiful.
Based on the understanding of Naxi culture, the designer preserved and repaired the original ancient architecture with Naxi characteristics. And use modern minimalist expression techniques to extend the original structural space, presenting the cultural connotation of "Using minimalism, the reality of the game is complicated; using modernity, listening to the echo of history."
The atrium of the favorite hotel, the reflection pool is integrated with the whole building. I think: Listening to the wind, grasping the mountains, and understanding the water here is the ideal Zen life of modern people...
Encountered a soft swaying rain, there is a little coolness in the air. The flowers in the backyard are blooming and the cherries are ripe. At this moment, I just want to feel the beauty of time quietly.
Sit upright in the simple and Zen-like tea room, enjoy tea, watch the mountains, nourish your mind, and have a pleasant afternoon. A volume of books, a cup of tea, and a window of green-dyed mood, time passes by so slowly.
There are only 20 rooms in the hotel. The atrium is the first phase with nine rooms. I stayed in the second phase. The design style of the whole building is different from the previous one.
In different rooms, due to the different angles, the mountain views and water views are also different. Here, you can not only forget the noisy traffic, forget the colorful lights, but also forget the arrogant smile and impetuous heart.
The room has a lot of space, no TV, simple and pure enough, and does not deliberately cater to the preferences of the guests. If you can't fall asleep, read a book. There are books, fresh fruit and mineral water in the room.
In addition to the big bed, there are two tatami mats in the room, and it is designed with floor-to-ceiling windows, and the distant mountains are outside the windows. The owner of the hotel wants to bring people's body and mind from the city to a more simple and natural village in a way of returning to the original.
During the leisure time in the court, the old things gradually became clearer, and I stayed for two days, and I couldn't bear to leave. When the breeze comes, close your eyes and meditate, let your thoughts go back to the past, forget all the hustle and bustle, and return to the starting point of the soul. This is the real poetic dwelling.
Dragon Girl Lake: Solo Dance at the Foot of Snow Mountain
Yuhu Village, 2,900 meters above sea level, is called "Ngv lv Kee" in Naxi language. "Ngv lv" is the Naxi name of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and "Kee" means the foot, which is the nearest village to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
And there is a plateau lake 2 kilometers away from Yuhu Village, which has a nice name: Longnv Lake. Lying quietly at the foot of the snow-capped mountains all year round, it exudes tranquility and tranquility.
There are almost no tourists here, a particularly small scenic spot, but there are snow mountains, grasslands, lakes... This lake is called the "tears" of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the "white moonlight" in the eyes of Naxi people.
The weather was not very good when we arrived. It had just rained, and I thought I couldn't see the snow-capped mountains. Fortunately, it didn't disappoint. The lake is not very wide. Standing not far from the lake, you can have a panoramic view of the snow-capped mountains. The mirror-like lake reflects the continuous mountains and clouds, which is breathtakingly beautiful.
There are local horses on the grass. This is one of the few experience programs by the lake. The fee is not expensive. You can ride a horse around the lake, which is quite worth experiencing.
Longnv Lake is the best place to watch Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. When the sky is clear, the outline of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain will be clearly reflected on the lake. When I stood in front of the snow mountain, I took out the ballet shoes that I wanted to wear once. Although I am not a professional dancer, I also want to leave the most beautiful figure at the foot of the snow mountain.
Longnv Lake is like a jade inlaid in the green land, pure and flawless. Sitting by the lake, closing your eyes and feeling the breeze passing by, I really wish that time would stand still at this moment.
Attachment: Practical Raiders
1. Overview of Lijiang
2. Round trip transportation
We flew from Nanjing to Kunming and rented a car from Kunming Airport. The road conditions along the road from Kunming to Lijiang are very good, and it is very convenient to rent a car. You can rent a car at the airport and return it at the airport. Now the price of renting a car is cheap, and you can choose your favorite model. If you like to take pictures, Jimei people can consider Jeep like me. There are several colors and they are very photogenic.
3. Accommodation in Kunming
The first stop of this trip is to Kunming, because I took an evening flight and arrived in the middle of the night, so I have to stay in Kunming for one night. I chose the newly opened Feiman Hotel. The hotel is located in Wangfujing Dianchi Town, very close to Kunming Railway Station.
As an urban leisure hotel, you can feel the relaxed living space from the lobby. The combination of self-service and semi-manual reception makes the stay more comfortable and casual.
The hotel staff are very enthusiastic and took me to the guest room in person. After comparing the environment and the price, the hotel's current lowest room rate is only 100+, which is really cheap. Is there anything?
The room is my favorite style, stylish and spacious, friendly and warm. The latex pillows and mattresses are very comfortable, and there are high-quality accessories. You don't want to get up when you lie on the bed.
If you want to buy something, the hotel has a delivery robot that can deliver it directly to the room. If you are hungry at night, there are shops to eat when you go out, which is quite convenient.
The hotel's restaurant not only has a delicious buffet, but also provides free refreshments. Even if you are very busy, you should still find time to invite friends or lovers to enjoy afternoon tea in the sun, chatting, and talking heart-to-heart. Such moments should be cherished.
There is also an outdoor garden-style dining platform outside the restaurant, with an excellent view and surrounded by green plants. Although it was just a quick night, the hotel is very good in terms of cost performance and experience, and it is full of praise.
4. Precautions
travel in special period
1. If you are going to Yunnan from a non-key epidemic area, the airline will show the QR code before boarding the plane, and you need to fill in the form before you can board the plane.
2. Wear a mask throughout the boarding process, and the stewardess will measure the temperature of the passengers on the plane
3. After arriving at the airport, you need to fill in the Yunnan health code again, and you can leave after one-to-one verification
4. During the period in Yunnan, it is still necessary to wear a mask when entering and exiting public places. The hotel will also measure the body temperature of the staying guests, disinfect the guest room, etc.
5. For personal epidemic prevention, remember to bring more masks, disinfectant wipes, hand sanitizer, etc., and go to public places to cooperate with temperature measurement
Be careful when visiting
1. Sunglasses, hats, sun umbrellas, and sun protection clothing are all necessary for going out. The ultraviolet coefficient of the plateau is strong, unless you are not afraid of being tanned.
2. Bring an umbrella and raincoat, because the weather is cloudy and cloudy, and sometimes it will change suddenly, so it is best to bring it for emergencies.
3. If you have high fever, remember to eat some rhodiola rosea in advance. If you go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, remember to bring oxygen cylinders (sold locally) and thick clothes.
4. The temperature difference between morning and evening in Lijiang is quite obvious. It is hot during the day and cold at night. You should still prepare a coat and be careful of catching a cold.
5. The streets of Lijiang Ancient Town and Shuhe Ancient Town are all cobblestone roads, which is really torture for me with a suitcase. I suggest that you should not bring a trolley suitcase, or find a local tricycle to send it in.
6. The local Naxi people have their own customs and habits. Everyone should pay attention to them when they go. For example, you can’t sit on the threshold in the house, you can’t spit into the pond casually, you can’t use your feet to step on the Guozhuang stone, and you can’t step over other people’s fire ponds. .
7. Alipay can be used in Lijiang, and there are many WeChat shops. If you don’t have cash, don’t worry. The ATMs in the ancient city are concentrated near Sifang Street. I only brought a small amount of cash. Everything else is done with WeChat and Alipay.