Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan is the hometown of the movie "Five Golden Flowers". I remember one year when I was a child, I went to the Great Hall of the People to participate in the Spring Festival Gala under the leadership of my parents. There was a large-scale theatrical performance in the Great Hall that day, and I, who loved watching movies since I was a child, went to the small auditorium to watch a film that had not yet been released at that time. Five Golden Flowers, especially although I have participated in many activities in the Great Hall since then, I have never watched a movie here, so I have a deep memory of the experience of watching "Five Golden Flowers".

At the same time, the group of songs in the film composed by the famous musician Mr. Lei Zhenbang, its beautiful and melodious classic melody has not only been passed down to this day, but also makes people appreciate the beauty of people, songs, human emotions, landscapes and landscapes shown in the film. Dali, which is as beautiful as one, is full of infinite longing... Unexpectedly, many years later, the reporter came to this haunted place three times.

Relatively speaking, the reporter came to Dali three times or the second pure tourism is the most perfect. It was at 23:50 on October 28, 2005. The reporter set off from Kunming to Dali with the China Railway Travel Special Train. After a one-night trip, he arrived at Dali Railway Station at 9:00 am the next day, and then started the journey into Dali. .

The Bai guides who had already been waiting outside the station warmly greeted the tourists coming from afar. Perhaps it is the charm of the movie, or the traditional customs of the Bai people. Here, the titles of young men and women are A Peng and Jin Hua respectively. Just like calling Yi girls Ashima in Shilin, Apeng and Jinhua have become the proper names for young men and women in Dali.

Dali is located in the west-central part of Yunnan Province, 396 kilometers away from Kunming, with a total area of ​​29,459 square kilometers. It has a vast territory, rich resources, beautiful mountains and rivers, and four seasons like spring. It is a treasure land to be developed in the southwest of the motherland. The whole prefecture governs one city and eleven counties. It is an area inhabited by 26 ethnic groups including Han, Bai, Yi, Hui, Lisu, Tibetan, and Naxi. At the end of 1999, the total population was 3.2609 million, and the minority population accounted for about 50%. With a population of 1,085,300, the Bai nationality is an autonomous prefecture with the Bai nationality as the autonomous ethnic group.

As the seat of the state capital, Dali is also the junction of Yunnan-Myanmar and Yunnan-Tibet highways, and a transportation hub in western Yunnan; it is an important gateway for cultural exchanges and trade between my country and Southeast Asian countries in history; it is the 500-year-old capital of Nanzhao in the Tang Dynasty and Dali in the Song Dynasty The location of the school is known as the "literary name state".

Dali, famous for its "wind, flowers, snow, and moon", is now a national open city, one of the first batch of 24 historical and cultural cities and 44 scenic spots announced in the country, a national culturally advanced city, and an excellent tourist city in China. The three pagodas of Nanzhao Chongsheng Temple in Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, the Shibaoshan Grottoes in Jianchuan, Jizu Mountain, a Buddhist holy place in Binchuan, and the tall and majestic Cangshan Mountain, the bright and clear Erhai Lake, and the lakes and mountains of Butterfly Spring constitute a beautiful and magical scene. picture scroll.

The bus is driving in Dali, and the rolling Cangshan Mountains in the distance are vivid. The first scenic spot of the tour group in Dali is the Three Pagodas of Dali, known as the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple.

The Three Pagodas of Dali are located about one kilometer north of Dali City. Behind the Dancang Mountain, which is covered with snowy peaks and carved with silver and sprinkled with greenery, is the Erhai Lake, which is vast in expanse of waves and stretches across the lake. The three pagodas stand upright, supporting the sky and the ground; the jade pillars mark the sky, majestic and magnificent, and are one of the scenic spots in Canger.

Data records: The main tower of the Three Pagodas is called Qianxun Pagoda. It is 69.13 meters high and is a square 16-storey pagoda with dense eaves. Looking up from under the pagoda, you can see that the pagoda stands in the clouds, and the clouds move and the pagoda stays, as if it is about to fall. The base of the pagoda is square and divided into two floors. The side length of the lower floor is 33.5 meters, and there are stone railings around it. The four characters "Yongzhen Mountains and Rivers" inscribed by Mu Shijie, a descendant of the Duke of Muying, are solemn and majestic, quite bold. Behind the screen wall, there is "The Story of Rebuilding the Three Pagodas" established by the Provincial People's Government.

The first floor of the tower is 13.45 meters high and is the highest level in the entire tower. The east tower gate is 2 meters away from the base plane, while the west tower gate is nearly 6 meters away. The tower wall is 3.3 meters thick. Layers 2 to 15 are basically the same in structure and similar in size. The 16th floor is the top of the tower. Taking the second floor as an example, it is about 2 meters high and 10 meters wide. The upper part is built with stacked eaves. For 17 layers of bricks, each layer is 0.05-0.07 meters high, and the four corners of the eaves are upturned. There is a Buddhist niche in the middle of the east and west sides of the pagoda, and a Buddha statue inside. On both sides of the niche, there are pavilion-style niches, lotus seats, hipped roofs, and a piece of Sanskrit scriptures embedded in it. On the north and south sides, there is a coupon-shaped window opening in the middle, which leads directly to the heart of the tower. On the third floor, the north and south are Buddhist niches, and the east and west are window openings. The above layers are alternated in sequence. The tower body shrinks as it goes up.

The top of the tower is 8 meters high, about one-seventh of the tower body. The towering tower brake makes people feel beyond the world and pierces the sky. At the top is a gourd-shaped vase made of copper, and under the bottle is an octagonal cover with four corners spreading wings and a wind-strike front; below it is a steel-bone copper-skinned phase wheel; at the bottom is a covered bowl with a lotus seat. On the four corners of the top of the pagoda, there were originally Jinpeng birds. According to legend, "the dragon's nature respects the pagoda and fears the Peng. Dali used to be Longze, so it was towned here."

About 70 meters away from the west of Qianxun Pagoda, there are two small pagodas in the north and south. They are octagonal brick pagodas with 10 levels of dense eaves, each 42.19 meters high. The first to eighth floors are hollow straight walls with crosses inside. The base is also octagonal. The distance between the two small towers is 97 meters, and the three towers form a tripod, with a unified layout, harmonious shape, and a seamless integration.

Next to the three pagodas, there is the original large-scale Chongsheng Temple. According to "Nanzhao Unofficial History" (Hu Ben, Wang Ben), "Si Gu Tong Ji" and other historical records, the base of the temple is 7 miles away, and the holy monk Li Chengmei built three pagodas, 890 houses, 11400 Buddhas, and 40590 catties of copper. Fengyou, the tenth master of Nanzhao, from the 10th year of Baohe to the first year of Tianqi (834-840 A.D.), cost more than 70,800 labors and consumed 43,514 catties of gold, silver, silk, brocade and satin. Due to the long history, most of the treasures in Chongsheng Temple have been damaged along with the temple.

I remember that in April 1994, the reporter visited Dali Three Pagodas when he came to Dali to select a scene for the TV series "Dearing City". Eleven years later, it is a different experience to visit here again. What is particularly gratifying is that today's Dali Scenic Area has changed its old look. With the restoration and reconstruction of Chongsheng Temple completed in April 2005, the history of the three towers of Chongsheng Temple having towers but no temples in the past century has ended, forming a The beautiful scenery reflected by the pagoda and temple.

The reporter and his party drove to the Butterfly Spring Scenic Area after leaving the Three Pagodas of Dali. Butterfly Spring is located at the foot of Shenmo Mountain, Yunnong Peak, the first peak in Cangshan Mountain, 27 kilometers south of Dali Ancient City. Butterfly Spring covers an area of ​​more than 50 square meters and is a square spring pool. The spring water is as clear as a mirror, emerging from the bottom of the spring, and the side of the spring is covered with shade. There is a tall ancient tree lying on the spring. This is the "butterfly tree".

According to the tour guide, at the turn of spring and summer every year, especially on April 15, the butterfly trees are fragrant and attract butterflies. A large number of butterflies gather by the spring and dance all over the sky. The most amazing thing is that there are thousands of colorful butterflies, which mate with each other and hang upside down on the butterfly tree, forming countless butterfly strings, which hang down to the water surface, which is very spectacular. The wonderful scene of Butterfly Spring has existed since ancient times, and it has been vividly recorded in Xu Xiake's works in Ming Dynasty.

When Guo Moruo visited in 1961, he wrote the three big characters "Butterfly Spring" in handwriting and engraved it on the square stone beside the spring. It's a pity that because the Butterfly Spring is being renovated, tourists can't take a picture here.

There are many legends about the origin of Butterfly Spring among the local people. One of the sayings is that a long time ago there was a vicious python by the lake, which only ate humans and animals. One day, two girls of the Bai nationality were caught by a snake and cried out bitterly. After the local hunter Du Chaoxuan heard about it, he killed the evil python. The two insisted on marrying Du Chaoxuan as a wife in order to repay their life-saving grace. The two daughters threw themselves into the pond and died. Du Chaoxuan regretted so much that he also jumped into the pond. The three of them turned into three colorful butterflies and flew by the pond. Butterflies from all over the world come and gather together, which is called "Butterfly Club".

In recent years, Butterfly Spring Park has been repaired and expanded, and a series of cultural landscapes such as Butterfly Tower, Hexagonal Pavilion, Big Crescent Pool, Butterfly Herbarium, Wanghai Tower and Xu Xiake Statue have been built, making this park full of legendary stories glow. New brilliance.

The boat trip to the Erhai Lake is the last tourist item on the first day of Dali trip. The tour group took the Universiade cruise ship to go boating on the Erhai Lake. On April 23, 1994, the reporter traveled to Erhai Lake the second day after arriving in Dali with the location gathering team of the TV series "Soulbreak Fishing City". The same sightseeing items are the wonderful folk song and dance performances on board and the etiquette of "three courses of tea" presented by Bai girls.

The entire journey of this trip lasted three hours. Except for a 40-minute stop at the Nanzhao Fengqing Island to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Fengqing Island, the rest was cruising on the vast and boundless Erhai Sea.

The ancient names of Erhai Lake are Ye Yuze and Kunming Lake. Because it looks like a human ear, it is also known as Erhai Lake. Erhai Lake is a plateau freshwater lake with an altitude of 1972 meters. It starts from Dengchuan, Eryuan in the north, and ends in Xiaguan in the south. With a water volume of 2.9 billion cubic meters, it is the second largest lake in Yunnan.

Erhai Lake is rich in resources, with Miju River and Mici River in the north, Poluo River in the east and Cangshan Stream in the west. The Xi'er River in the south is the mouth of the sea, and flows into the Lancang River through the Yangbi River.

On the Universiade cruise ship, while sightseeing the Erhai Lake, tourists also enjoyed the wonderful folk song and dance performances performed by young men and women of the Bai nationality, and tasted the unique "three courses of tea" of the Bai nationality. When the Universiade cruise ship arrived at the shore, the Bai youths on board played auspicious and joyful folk music to see everyone off. It was almost evening at this time, and the first day of Dali tour was successfully concluded.

Sightseeing Dali Ancient City is the last activity of Dali trip. In the early morning of October 30th, on the way to Lijiang, everyone passed by here for breakfast, and then visited the ancient city of Dali. This is the reporter's second visit to Dali after April 22, 1994.

I remember the first time the reporter came with the location team of the TV series "Soulbreak Fishing City". In front of the gate tower of Dali City, the reporter also took a photo with Mr. Huang Jianzhong, a member of the location team and the famous director of Beijing Film Studio. Now 11 years have passed in a blink of an eye, and I feel that great changes have taken place when I come to Dali Ancient City again. Not only were the stone paved roads re-paved, but the streets were also widened. Moreover, cultural landscapes such as Wuhuayu have been built.

The ancient city of Dali has a long history. Its abbreviation is Yeyu, also known as Zicheng. Its history can be traced back to the Tianbao period of Tang Dynasty. Xindu. The current ancient city was built in the fifteenth year of Ming Hongwu (AD 1382).

According to literature records, the ancient city of Dali is "magnificent in scale", with a radius of 12 miles. The city wall is 2 feet 5 feet high and 2 feet thick; There are also turrets at the four corners of the city, each with its own name: Yingchuan, Xiping, Kongming, and Changqing. The outer wall of the city wall is made of bricks, with a column on the top and a ditch around the city on the bottom. The city is like a well, with a checkerboard layout, with 5 streets from south to north and 8 lanes from east to west.

Of course, most of these buildings have disappeared today, and some are still faintly visible. Now, some of the city walls of the North and South City are still preserved. In 1982, the south gate was rebuilt, and the word "Dali" on the gate was formed by Guo Moruo's calligraphy.

Especially today's ancient city of Dali is simple and quiet. The flowing stream in the city makes people feel refreshed. The garden tea house hidden deep in the street is a good place for tourists to rest, and the newly opened "foreigner street" has become a gathering place for foreign tourists. The snacks with Bai nationality characteristics and the famous "three courses of tea" all make people feel unique. Interesting. (Photo: Feng Ganyong)